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CVT Longevity


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I'm not asking here for opinions of personal general likes or dislikes on Subaru CVT's ( I think that has been covered in other posts) .... but I would like to ask the specific question as to how long do forum members realistically expect their transmissions to be "trouble free?"

 

The internet is full of CVT haters, and I take a lot of that with a grain of salt, but I tend to look a bit deeper at the opinions of so called "experts" ..... some of whom still seem to be sitting on the fence on the subject.

 

The following article is just one of many I have seen where the writer seems to be saying "CVT's are good but ...." and one of the "buts" that is mentioned comes under the heading of "maintenance," and he suggests changing the fluid at 30,000kms(KMS)(which I thought was a little extreme) ... I recall seeing a post here where a member suggests a change figure of 60,000 MILES (which I thought was reasonable.) Keeping in mind that the manual doesn't really recommend changing the fluid at all, except in "harsh" conditions ..... and this was re-stated to me when I asked the question of fluid change at the dealership on my most recent service.

 

I guess it's not really much of a concern to those members who turn over their vehicles every 3 or so years .... but I'm just wondering what the thoughts are for any forum members who intend keeping their cars for an extended period of time.

 

https://carfromjapan.com/article/car-maintenance/how-long-do-cvt-transmissions-last/

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My dad has the 2010 Subaru Legacy cvt and no issues so far, refusal maintenances and check fluids and no issues.

Of course he doesn’t floor it every time he gets in the car so the longevity is very subjective.

 

For my needs the cvt is fine, if I wanted a race car obviously I wouldn’t pick a cvt. The 3.6R has plenty of pep and gets me up to speed and does well when I go up the mountains compared to the 2.5i.

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I am at 204k on my 2010 Legacy 2.5i with CVT. It has so far been trouble free for me aside from the issue with the Torque Converter which was covered under the Extended Warranty. When I bought the car I asked about it and they said it was a "Maintenance Free" transmission. One of these days I will do a simple change of the CVT Fluid (easy enough to do under the car). Otherwise I have no complaints. I had the TC replaced last year, at around 160k miles and have since put just over 40k on it with no issues. I drive a good 40k miles per year so reliability is huge for me.
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^ saw that video a while ago, very interesting one at that..

 

I'm going to give the company in that video a ring and ask them their opinion on changing the CVT transmission fluid. If they are willing to talk (which I assume they will be) I'll ask them their basic thoughts on Subaru's sealed/ non maintenance CVT transmisions, and if they consider fluid changes necessary. If I get any useful info I will post the results of the conversation.

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I am at 204k on my 2010 Legacy 2.5i with CVT. It has so far been trouble free for me aside from the issue with the Torque Converter which was covered under the Extended Warranty. When I bought the car I asked about it and they said it was a "Maintenance Free" transmission.

 

Pre warning ... the following clip has nothing to do with a subaru and obviously nothing to do with a CVT, so I understand if that means no one wants to watch it. The reason I am posting it is because it shows a mechanic (who I watch regularly) who is not put off by a manufacturer's warning that a particular part is "Lubricated/filled for life/cannot be serviced"

I'm not suggesting that a Subaru owner who has a vehicle still under warranty should take this clip as encouragement to take his/her CVT apart for servicing ...... but I just found the clip informative, and because it shows that being "unservicable" is not always written in stone. ;)

 

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^ saw that video a while ago, very interesting one at that..

 

I just spoke to the guy from that video clip. He said they recommend changing the CVT transmission fluid at 60,000kms. For what it is worth he did caution me that obviously Subaru transmission fluid needed to be used, and that the job does require specific expertise and tools. I then rang Subaru Australia and they gave me the standard "lifetime/no need to change" routine ..... but when I specifically asked them if I wanted to change the fluid, they replied that it could be done at the dealership. I then asked how would that affect the warranty, and they replied there would be no problem warranty wise as long as it was done at a Subaru service centre.

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Well, well...$300 to sit and watch fluid drip. :)

 

On my Volvo's I did my own trans drain & fill. The Volvo dealer also wanted @ $300 and their ATF fluid was something like $24 a quart. Thanks to the Volvo forums, they found that the Volvo 3309 fluid was made by Mobile. Mobile makes it, Volvo re-badges it and sells it for a high price. So everyone that can turn a wrench buys Mobil 3309 at about $78 for an entire case -- delivered to your door.

 

I'm wondering if the Subaru ATF fluid is the same re-badge it situation?

 

But if it means no issues with a warranty claim denials because I changed it on my own, $300 is cheap insurance.

 

Lifetime fluids --- yeah right! Define lifetime.

 

Drain and fill was around 300, full fluid exchange was around $500
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Well, well...$300 to sit and watch fluid drip. :)

 

On my Volvo's I did my own trans drain & fill. The Volvo dealer also wanted @ $300 and their ATF fluid was something like $24 a quart. Thanks to the Volvo forums, they found that the Volvo 3309 fluid was made by Mobile. Mobile makes it, Volvo re-badges it and sells it for a high price. So everyone that can turn a wrench buys Mobil 3309 at about $78 for an entire case -- delivered to your door.

 

I'm wondering if the Subaru ATF fluid is the same re-badge it situation?

 

But if it means no issues with a warranty claim denials because I changed it on my own, $300 is cheap insurance.

 

Lifetime fluids --- yeah right! Define lifetime.

Just say something positive once in a while, no one enjoys a sad sack.

 

Laughing at oneself and with others is good for the Soul![emoji2]

Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul😆
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Yes, the Subaru branded CVTFs (all colors, specs - and there are at least 3-4 by now) are re-branded fluids. Most are provided by Idemitsu or Mitasu.

 

Below is the source for the TR690 Lineatronic HT-CVT CVTF: https://www.mitasuoil.com/en/fluid/cvt-ultra-fluid

 

Drain-n-fill regimes are a good idea for any Subaru CVT, regardless of what the dealership network, service/repair manual or independent shops tell you.

 

And there is no way to flush all the fluid out, even when forced as a lot of it remains trapped in the VB passages and only mixes and moves under specific conditions, specific 'gear', etc.

 

If replacing the fluid with non-OEM (say Amsoil CVTF, Eneos, CVTF, Redline CVTF) its best to perform two closely coupled (<100 miles driving between them) drain and fills, three are even better. Otherwise just stick with a OE fluid drain and fill regiment of say every 30K miles. Or at least @ 30K miles, then at 90K, 120K, etc.

 

Aside from refreshing part of the fluid this way, keep the average fluid temp down, ideally below 190F (say between 150-180F) by whatever means you can (aux cooler, radiator circuit thermostatic bypass, active fan cooling, etc.).

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On my Volvo's I never did a full refill. I would take out 4 quarts, replace 4 quarts and drive for a month. Then the next month I would do it again.

 

It made a world of difference in shifting, some owners saw flaring disappear and is something I recommend.

 

Thanks for the link on fluids.

 

Yes, the Subaru branded CVTFs (all colors, specs - and there are at least 3-4 by now) are re-branded fluids. Most are provided by Idemitsu or Mitasu.

 

Below is the source for the TR690 Lineatronic HT-CVT CVTF: https://www.mitasuoil.com/en/fluid/cvt-ultra-fluid

 

Drain-n-fill regimes are a good idea for any Subaru CVT, regardless of what the dealership network, service/repair manual or independent shops tell you.

 

And there is no way to flush all the fluid out, even when forced as a lot of it remains trapped in the VB passages and only mixes and moves under specific conditions, specific 'gear', etc.

 

If replacing the fluid with non-OEM (say Amsoil CVTF, Eneos, CVTF, Redline CVTF) its best to perform two closely coupled (<100 miles driving between them) drain and fills, three are even better. Otherwise just stick with a OE fluid drain and fill regiment of say every 30K miles. Or at least @ 30K miles, then at 90K, 120K, etc.

 

Aside from refreshing part of the fluid this way, keep the average fluid temp down, ideally below 190F (say between 150-180F) by whatever means you can (aux cooler, radiator circuit thermostatic bypass, active fan cooling, etc.).

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Ok. One of the reason for buying the Subbie was the engine. I like the design, I like how easy the engine is to work on.

 

Once I get the kinks worked out on my recent purchase you'll likely see less of my complaints.

 

Just say something positive once in a while, no one enjoys a sad sack.

 

Laughing at oneself and with others is good for the Soul![emoji2]

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My dealer told me this week that my CVT is sealed, no way to change the fluids

If the person who said that works in the service department, it's time to find another dealer.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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My dealer told me this week that my CVT is sealed, no way to change the fluids

 

2017 Legacy - 4 cyl Huh?

 

I agree with ammcinnis ..... Hopefully it was not your service manager, but merely a trainee salesman who just started on the job that day. :eek:

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It was a service adviser, been there for several years. My question was then does Subaru recommend changing the transmission fluid? He said, "they are sealed, it doesn't even have a dip stick, no way to change the fluid and we only crack them open when there is a problem, otherwise there is no reason to open them up"

 

:(

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He is clueless. There is a breather hose and both a drain and a fill/overflow Txx plug.

 

 

 

The $4-6K ticking time bomb will either become your or the next owners' problem.

 

 

You can run the OE fill for 100-200K and have no issues,

stick to a 30/60K drain n fill regiment and refresh part of the fluid each time,

or switch over to an ever increasing % of full synthetic replacement, or...

 

 

You can develop problems with TC, VB, clutch packs, fluid oxidation/degradation much earlier (say at 60K) or dislodge some debris and clog a VB passage when doing the n-th drain n fill...

 

 

 

Everyones mileage will vary. Preventive maintenance, if started early enough, wont hurt.

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