COBB AP numbers after a 200 mile drive...

I am still learning about the COBB AP and how to know when things are going well and when they are not. This is an image of the AP screen after a 200 mile drive over the mountains to Portland OR. It was spirited driving for sure!

 

Does anyone see anything that makes them concerned?

 

Also is there a good page with "Normal ranges" to watch for?

Your DAM (Dynamic Advance Multiplier) is concerning and so is the Fine Knock learn of -5.60. Is this a custom tune or an OTS MAP?

OTS map.

OTS map.

 

I personally wouldn't drive the car spirited with those numbers, I also just noticed you have a -10.50 of feedback knock. Are you on a 93 oct or 91 oct map? If on 93 go ahead and switch to the 91 octane map. Also what mods on the car? OTS MAP Stage 1 or Stage 2?

What are the fuel learning values in the A/B/C ranges? Those may help you get started on troubleshooting.

 

It would be a good idea to get moving on an e-tune very soon.

 

What mods do you have?

What are the fuel learning values in the A/B/C ranges? Those may help you get started on troubleshooting.

 

It would be a good idea to get moving on an e-tune very soon.

 

What mods do you have?

 

I 100% agree.... There's a few great tuners here in the forum that can E-tune your car.

Confirm you don't have a post MAF leak. Happened to me a while back after I had a sudden drop in the DAM. Pressure checked the system and I had leaking at the throttle body hose. Good to go after tightening up. Confirm that you don't have leaks before you search out a tuner...they won't tune it in that state, as even with it being an OTS map, those numbers are way out of the norm on a healthy engine.

Confirm you don't have a post MAF leak. Happened to me a while back after I had a sudden drop in the DAM. Pressure checked the system and I had leaking at the throttle body hose. Good to go after tightening up. Confirm that you don't have leaks before you search out a tuner...they won't tune it in that state, as even with it being an OTS map, those numbers are way out of the norm on a healthy engine.

 

Agreed, a smoke test will likely be the next step; fuel learning will help verify that.

I will switch the map to 91 Octane and start checking all connections. I did just install a Crawford AOS. I had to remove intercooler and a lot of lines to fit it.

 

Mods list:

K&N drop in filter

SPT Cat back

Perrin Crank Pulley

Changing from OTS Map Stage 1, 93 Octane Av300

To Map Stage 1, 91 Octane.

 

Numbers on DAM went up to .625

Fine and learned knock at 0.

 

I go for a drive and see if anything changes.

Things I did prior to the drive:

Checked connections after MAF and found both the band clamps from the air box to be a bit less than snug. Shorter drive of 15 Miles. Pushed it a bit to see if there were changes.

DAM: .875

-1.5 Feedback Knock Learn. All zeros otherwise.

Better, but that DAM should really never drop below 1. I'd guess there is still a leak somewhere in the system.

Stage 1 with 17.93 psi? That seems a bit high... I'd put my money on end tank separation. Check your intercooler.

Anywhere have 93? My DAM dropping real low was poopy fuel... and an inlet tube leak...

If you can swing it you should schedule a dyno tune at Cobb Surgeline in Portland. They’re $400 and if you bought the AP from them it’s 50% off the price

I’ll go through it tonight and make sure all is air tight.

If you can swing it you should schedule a dyno tune at Cobb Surgeline in Portland. They’re $400 and if you bought the AP from them it’s 50% off the price

 

 

I’m in Bend but will plan on it soon.

So after an extended drive the number came up to all zeros and the DAM was at 1.0.

 

But, after driving the car harder that all changed. I will explore all connections much more carefully and report back soon.

 

Would addding a AOS potentially cause this problem? My numbers were on spec completely prior to the install. Also, would a PCV leak cause this? The only other change that happened was that I installed a JB welded intercooler at the same time. I have the BMB Bulletproof kit to install on the original end tank leaking intercooler and this was a temporary solution, I guess it could be leaking.

After one standing start WOT pull.

After one standing start WOT pull.

 

Still no good, I would suggest not flogging it anymore or you might actually end up joining the YNANSB crew.

Agreed! I will be nice from now on.

 

Here is the link I am following to resolve leaks.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/intake-vacuum-leaks-and-you-pics-inside-235626.html

I have been offered a smoke leak test machine to help track down the leaks. Now I will need to figure out how and where to attach it.

Found this link on how to use Smoke Machine:

http://turboboostleaktesters.com/how-to-boostleak-test-a-subaru/

I'd advise trying the simple method first.

Do the step one listed there, cap the inlet turbo tube from the air filter box, make air tight. Then I think there is a line to the BOV back to the TMIC that you can literally blow into with your mouth...

I actually put a rubber glove on my inlet tube and when it held pressure I could keep that inflated.

 

But if you can get that tester make use of it!

I'd advise trying the simple method first.

Do the step one listed there, cap the inlet turbo tube from the air filter box, make air tight. Then I think there is a line to the BOV back to the TMIC that you can literally blow into with your mouth...

I actually put a rubber glove on my inlet tube and when it held pressure I could keep that inflated.

 

But if you can get that tester make use of it!

Here is the steps he is referring to.

Leak Test:

You will need, a flat head screw driver and a plug for the intake 2.75” OD (aerosol can, spray paint etc will work). You remove your intake from your inlet tube, then insert the can into the coupler just in front of the inlet tube. Next you remove the vacuum source line from the by-pass or blow-off valve and blow into the source line (which connects to the manifold). Try not use above 5 psi because the inlet, pcv, and valve breathers will be under pressure and could pop off or generate a leak. The breathers normally do not see boost pressure. I typically blow into the line with my mouth (lungs) because its quiet and easier to hear air coming out of the system. Once all leaks are contained I blow into it and put my thumb over the hose for 3-4 seconds, then release my finger, and it should still contain some pressure and you can hear it hiss back out at you. A smoke test is another good way to locate leak sources but a smoke machine is needed.