Might buy 2011 3.6R

this car has 97,000 on it. Anything I should look at tomorrow when checking it out? And whats the weak points of the car, what is about to go on me, what should I expect. I can only imagine that the timing belt has been changed. How are the transmissions, and leaks, breaks, etc... I was looking at a 2010 2.5 and found the issue of the torque converter to exist, ended up not buying it... now looking at this one, the power sounds better and the package is nicer... I think there are plenty of mods avail...

 

thoughts appreciated... many thanks.

 

-me

The 3.6R engines use a timing chain, not a timing belt....no need for replacements The 2010-2014 3.6R Legacys have a high torque 5EAT trans not a CVT so no problems there.

As far as engine mods go, there is very little to be gained unless you are prepared to spend lots of money...super chargers and headers etc etc. Spend your "mod" money on handling and things you think are nice to personalize the car.

Mine is pretty standard as far as mods go... better wheels and tires, bigger rear sway bar....custom made 23mm bar on mine(A must do on Legacys), milk jug delete and funnel intake...better lights and fogs...then go for cosmetic stuff you like....rear deck spoiler, side moldings etc etc.

Pre 2013 models have pretty wimpy shocks....upgrade to at least to 2013/14 stock shocks or better.

Great cars....enjoy!!

I love mine. I'm at 78k now.

 

I would ask them to see that the oil change has been kept up. Subaru recommends 7500 miles for full synthetic but I feel that's if you nanny drive. I go for 5-6k and oil analysis have come back good with a bit of wiggle room for longer intervals. I use Motul 300V 5w40 though. Also drive it like it's stolen.

 

Make sure the transmission fluid has been drain and refilled. I usually follow every 20k miles or so with this. At that mileage if it's never been done it might actually hurt more than help. I can't say for sure.

 

Brakes pads are probably close to their way out if they haven't been done yet.

 

Nothing really goes wrong with these drivetrain wise. I did have my rear diff replaced but I believe it was dealer/ previous owner error in not changing the fluid soon enough.

 

I could go on with mods but more on that later.

 

At that mileage, expect the stock struts/shocks to be nearly done. You have a few options for upgrades. I believe the koni build-a-strut's are still available and rear shocks. You need to pair them with springs. Stock 2013-14 3.6R would be ideal if you want stock ride height. I've rode on them and they're not bad paired with Koni's. There's coilover options or you can go bagged if you're crazy.

 

I can't really think of any weak points. Oil consumption isn't as common with these as the 2.5's. But isn't unheard of.

 

One thing that's pretty common across all of the models is coilpack's deteriorating in rust prone areas.

 

Oh, don't forget spark plugs. If they haven't been done yet definitely get them changed.

 

Probably just best to go through and cross everything off like I did.

 

Spark plugs

Air filter

Cabin Filter

Oil Change

Front and Rear diff fluid change

Power steering fluid change

Brake Fluid flush

Run fuel cleaner like B12 Chemtool through. I do this every 5k miles or so. Usually use Lucas.

Also the fuel filter in the tank should be changed at this point I would think.

 

You can also have it tuned for better throttle response, shifting and low end torque as well as a slight power increase stock. If you want more on this just click on signature.

Seems like the normal stuff to do after a purchase. Wish I had access to a lift, would make things a bit easier. Here's the link to the car page, has car fax link on it.

 

https://www.capitalmotorgroupny.com/inventory/details/38098637

 

Going in the AM. I'm usually froggy so I might very well pull the trigger and snag it if I'm in love with the ride.

Also came across a 2013 Limited 3.6R with 83,000 on it, bumpers are a little scratched up, and I havent contacted them yet, but its brown =(

 

-me

I was looking at a 2010 2.5 and found the issue of the torque converter to exist, ended up not buying it.

 

Subaru has extended the warrant on the CVT including the torque converter. The warranty is extended to all 5th Gen CVT's until July 2018 irregardless of miles (it was one year). If the car is has less than 100k miles at that point, the warranty is until 10 years /100k miles.

As with any fifth gen legacy from the rust belt, check to see if the trunk lid is rusting around the drain holes.

Check that the tires all match in size & brand and the tread depths are within a few 32's of each other. A MUST with our AWD.

 

Where are the rear headrests?

 

Try all the windows and the sunroof.

 

Great car WITH proper maintenance.

raptor supercharger kit? claim sub 5's to 60...

Might put your location in. A local might be willing to look at or know of the cars in your area.

Oooo...blue.

 

If you can snag a 2013-14 that would be a better bet. But not brown I mean, unless you like brown.

 

But they have stiffer spring rate. IIRC an updated steering rack. There was shimmy issues with some of the 10-12's. I think Subaru had a service bulletin for that. They updated the front sway bar to 26mm. I swapped one in on mine. I think some newer features we're available on the 13-14's.

 

Also definitely get the dual zone hvac. I love being able to just hit auto and let it go. No fiddling with fan speeds and temp.

 

I forgot about the rust on the truck lid. I should check mine...

 

There's also the rear window crack in places with subzero temps when weight is shifted from side to side. Only happens once in a blue moon.

 

The windows don't shut properly on the highway sometimes and let air seep in. Again, once in a blue moon. Every car brand has it's quirks.

 

It seems there's not many in your area, which I had the same issue with. I drove 93 miles to get mine. Only other one in my area for under $20k at the time was red with 55k miles and didn't care much for the red. But now I wish I had the black interior. All the others we're high mileage. Got mine with 38k on it.

^ my '14 wandered a lot until I put the 20mm rear bar on...

Based on the OPs sale ad posts, he's local to me.

Tri-State area of NY/NJ/CT... and either located or shopping for 3.6Rs on Long Island.

 

EDIT - congrats on the purchase, welcome to the wider 5th gen and narrower 3.6R family.

Bought the car! What pep to it, surprising having come from a SC 3.8 Grand Prix.

Changed oil 20 mins after purchase. All other fluids looked/smelled good proper levels (will look at other under car areas soon enough). Rotate and balance all is my next step. due to a slight shaking at Hway speed.

 

DougSin - Tires match, new set not to long ago (according to carfax), seem to have a slight shake in the wheel at speeds, will balance and rotate very soon and depth check all. Head rests were in trunk. All tires match, will really suck if something goes through a side wall of tire. Need to buy a new set all around?

 

Nads, information updated. Long Island indeed, Nassau. Thanks!

 

This previous owner must have vaped like crazy in a closed car, there is vape film all over everything, good thing for leather. Least its not "smoked" in, my Pontiac had just as much tar/nicotine on the outside as the inside. >=) Looks like I'm going to be on this forum a bit. Love to learn and see whats what. Need $$$ to get things cool... all in good time. 1 treat at a time.

 

-Me

Sounds like it might have the dreaded shimmy! Have the dealer confirm if the shimmy TSBs were done and how many/how far. Else you might be in for steering rack, column, wheel replacement and various new bushings and even after all that it might not be fully gone.

 

Next would be new shocks/strut mounts, etc. then even a new driveshaft or driveshaft re-install.

 

Sadly wheel balancing and alignment will likely not help.

Ironically, might actually make it worse.

 

Search the forum for 'shimmy' and grab some popcorn or maybe even some cognac or whiskey to weather reading the thread.

Like the 2010-12 CVT's and the TSB there to extend the warranty to 10 years or 100,000 are the "shimmy" TSB's covered similarly? if it just goes against the original warranty, well thats gone. Where might be a good place to start to get the most bang for the buck results wise. Its really not that bad but I did notice it rather quickly.

 

< cant drink though, popcorn hardly a substitute.

Let me tell you from my personal experience what I went through.

 

So, at highway speeds my car would get a shake. Okay, so I went to Conrads. They did a regular balance, not road force. They said one tire they had trouble balancing but it was within spec. Get on highway. Still shaking. I waited a few weeks and had gotten separate snow tires. Put those on the stock wheels that I have been using at a regular tire shop. They did a regular balance. Cars still paint mixer shaking.

 

Okay, so I go to the dealership, fork out $100 for the road force balance. Get up to 75mph. Smooth as can be. So I take it these stock wheels can get bent in ways that regular balancing can't remedy.

 

I had recently gotten new Enkei wheels and tires and it's even better than the stock wheels with a proper balance. I couldn't believe how smooth the car rode.

 

I would start there. Get them roadforce balanced and see how she does. Then you can start bugging the dealer to fix it because it's a known issue with some of them. Not sure if they'll cover the cost.

 

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1j0P5giq_yC7a1t_Eve_K3f61NXLET1ILyX3aLi7jQ3c/edit?usp=sharing

 

To make your life a bit easier, I've compiled a great deal of info on, more specifically the 3.6R. It's a doc of where to find stuff and common mods people start with.

Ive been diving into the "shimmy" sans popcorn and came to the conclusion that I'm going to drive it a bit and see if the tires work out. The dealer had said to me that he had the car for about 7 weeks, not sure if it was being driven or parked in the same spot. May be just a flat spot needing worked out. I'm going to take advice from an earlier post and hit a dealer and see what TSB's have been done. As stated, its slight but noticeable, not a paint mixer.

Bought the car! What pep to it, surprising having come from a SC 3.8 Grand Prix.

Changed oil 20 mins after purchase. All other fluids looked/smelled good proper levels (will look at other under car areas soon enough). Rotate and balance all is my next step. due to a slight shaking at Hway speed.

 

DougSin - Tires match, new set not to long ago (according to carfax), seem to have a slight shake in the wheel at speeds, will balance and rotate very soon and depth check all. Head rests were in trunk. All tires match, will really suck if something goes through a side wall of tire. Need to buy a new set all around?

 

Nads, information updated. Long Island indeed, Nassau. Thanks!

 

This previous owner must have vaped like crazy in a closed car, there is vape film all over everything, good thing for leather. Least its not "smoked" in, my Pontiac had just as much tar/nicotine on the outside as the inside. >=) Looks like I'm going to be on this forum a bit. Love to learn and see whats what. Need $$$ to get things cool... all in good time. 1 treat at a time.

 

-Me

 

when I got my 2003 Legacy in 2014, the interior smelled like baby poo... evidently the mother used to store used diapers in there.. so I took out all the seats and steamed the carpet.. still smelled bad.. bought 2 bottled of Fabreeze and sprayed everything down and the odor is gone... now it smells like any other 16 year old car lol.

I like that blue color. Did you get the rear headrests? They must have had car seats or hauled stuff with the seats down.

the head rests were in the trunk along with carpet and "weathertech" like subbie sets of floor mats. I think the shimmy is working itself out. It doesnt seem to bother me and its not crazy at all, perhaps it was just from sitting around. New thing I have noticed is a hum coming from what seems to be the rear of the car. I had a cutlass once that had a sound like this and it was the ring and pinion, once changed along with a limited slip it was gone. I went for a stroll this evening and heard it going to my destination moving about 45-50. Then I downloaded an audio app to try to capture it to share for suggestions, went 45-50 again and it was gone. Ill bet good money it will be back and go away again. My first recording of it I could barely hear on playback. So... am I crazy or is a slight hum to be expected? I think either way changing out the diff oil back there more then likely has not been taken care of. Should I get the fluid from Subaru? or can I just use a good label and follow spec? As I said glad the shimmy is dissipating, cant complain. Off the wall question on climate control: hitting "auto" always seems to turn on the AC compressor (Its February in NY). is there a way to use auto without having AC engage?

 

"As with any fifth gen legacy from the rust belt, check to see if the trunk lid is rusting around the drain holes." -Where are they located? Need to remove a panel?

 

-Me

Good news re shimmy. If it sticks around even a road force and road force @ speed balance on a brand new set of wheels and tires wont help.

 

Sadly Auto or @ windshield direction always engages the AC, both on these old and newer Subarus. It is what it is.

 

Change the diff fluid with any quality fluid that meets the specs. Might as well do the front and back while at it, same fluid on the 3.6R. Use some good synthetic and report what comes out, wipe the plugs clean. Hopefully you dont end up having to replace the rear diff like Timmy (if I remember correctly) recently to get that on again, off again hum to go away.

 

Drain holes are visible when you pop the trunk, just look up and along the edge.

The AC engages because although cycling air past the evaporator cools it a little, it also dehumidifies it, which helps a lot with stopping the insides of the windows and windshield from fogging up. If you hit auto then punch the AC button a couple of times, though, the AC icon will shut off, which is my standard operating procedure since that bugs me as well.

Good news re shimmy. If it sticks around even a road force and road force @ speed balance on a brand new set of wheels and tires wont help.

 

Sadly Auto or @ windshield direction always engages the AC, both on these old and newer Subarus. It is what it is.

 

it's not just Subaru... the A/C acts as a dehumidifier and on most cars I have driven (Japanese, American, etc) turing on the defroster will engage ac if so equipped. auto climate control will turn it on as well depending upon outside temps and it think the front windshield needs defogging.. below about 32F, the A/C will not engage regardless of being turned on

On your rear end issue, do you hear the sound on acceleration, cruise or deceleration? Some ring and pinions just howl. We don't have a LSD. Check the CV's too.

 

What is the tire situation on the car? All the same brand and model? Had a tread depth checked? Some tires howl too, mainly cheap ones and some road surfaces magnify the noise.

I'd be more willing to bet it's the tires if it goes away and comes back. I hope you're not running on the Bridgestone Turanza's either. Those things are terrible.