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Noticeable Difference with Lighter Wheels?


stalintc

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Have you noticed a real difference when switching to a lightweight wheel and if so in what way? I have read what theoretically will happen, however I am not on a track, I have stock suspension, etc.

 

For the sake of the question, I am looking at about 2-3 lbs per wheel of slim-fasting.

 

Thanks

 

UPDATE:

General consensus is that on the road, normal driving, non-race car driver people will notice no difference due to wheel weight reduction. Any differences found are either due to tire width / diameter changes and or placebo effect. Feel free to read through to see all sides of the question. Design arguments start at the bottom of pg 3 :p

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I went from 08 spec b rims which are approximately 28-29lbs to Enkei EKM3s which are about 20-21lbs. I didn't notice any real difference.

 

It should be slightly better for acceleration, easier on your brakes and suspension hardware.

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Brandon,

 

Thanks for the response. How much weight did you shed per wheel?

 

-Brad

 

You're welcome, Brad. I went from 17-18lbs/wheel to 25-26lbs/wheel and finally to 20-21lbs/wheel. Of course the change in tire size/brand/type plays a part as well.

 

Sent from my SGH-T699 using Tapatalk 2

-Brandon

2007 Chevrolet Suburban LT3

1981 Chevrolet C10 LWB

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Have you noticed a real difference when switching to a lightweight wheel and if so in what way? I have read what theoretically will happen, however I am not on a track, I have stock suspension, etc.

 

For the sake of the question, I am looking at about 2-3 lbs per wheel of slim-fasting.

 

Thanks

 

If you remove 2.5 lbs per wheel (the middle of the range you listed), that is about 10 lbs total off the car. Since this is rotational weight, it should be the equivalent of about 50 lbs when accelerating in first gear. Given the weight of the car, this is not a change that is immediately noticeable by everyone.

 

All that said, I went from the stock SpecB setup (49.5 lbs per corner!) to SSR GT2 with Michelin Pilot SuperSports (total of 36.2 lbs per corner) and the difference was dramatic, IMO more of a change than stock to Cobb stage2 (keep in mind, my Legacy is an 07, which starts much closer to stage 1 power levels when stock).

 

The change in terms of suspension control was quite dramatic, the wheels follow the road much better now and the car feels much smoother and more comfortable over bumps as well. Keep in mind, my weight saving was 13+ lbs per corner, well over 50 lbs in total and all unsprung weight.

 

In terms of acceleration, the car feels much lighter in the lower gears, but the change is not as apparent in higher gears (somewhat similar to the change in power from a lightweight flywheel). Subjectively, in first gear the car pull harder with two passengers riding than it did with no passengers before. In first gear it feels a lot like the car has lost 300 lbs!

 

Of course, with only 1/5 the weight reduction, you will not experience nearly the same difference, but every little bit does help. A major contributing factor is the tires, so tires in the same size can vary by over 5 lbs in weight.

 

I have done weight reduction on all the cars I have done (not just rotational, but from all over) and it does make a difference. Quite important to me if the improvement in handling from the weight reduction.

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you wont feel a 5-10lb wheel weight difference on a DD so much. You will see it though if you race. your car will make faster times with consistent driving, but you 'll never feel it really with the butt dyno unless you are a pro with loads of testing time.

 

If you have a light car with less power like a miata, wheel weight reduction may make a more noticeable difference you can feel.

 

remeber, though your aftermarket wheel is 5lbs lighter, most often put wider tires on them which are heavier, decreasing the effects of the light wheels.

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I felt a difference with just 4lbs per side heavier the moment I went around the block.

 

It was Heavier and was slower to accelerate, much longer braking distance, heavy steering wheel. Looked nice though, but that was it

 

Traded it for some stock wheels, much better, no regrets:)

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I went from the OEM wheels of my 2012 LGT (18x7.5, 25.4 pounds) to some WedsSport TC105Ns that weigh under 17 pounds (18x8.5). Since the OEMs now have winter tires on them, I put my OEM summers onto the Weds since they'd fit and to save a bit of upfront cash. So, I've actually dropped about 8.5 pounds per corner.

 

I'd like to think I noticed a difference in acceleration and nimbleness, but I can't rule out the placebo effect.

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Very interesting whitetiger. I had not really thought to take diameter into account. Maybe I should go with some Dayton 14s...

 

 

its not the rim size but the overall diameter of the assembly. a 245/40/17, a 215/45/17(stock lgt sizing) and a 245/35/18 have the same overall diameter, but a 225/45/17 or a 235/40/18 is a taller setup so that will make it a little harder for the car to accelerate and brake, though you will get more top speed.

 

no one ever considers this when tire buying for their wheels. this is why i like to keep to stock overall diameter unless im buying tires for gearing. this will affect the cars response alot more than a 5-10lb change in wheel weight per corner.

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I've tried the following for daily use with some mixed and spirited driving:

 

Stock 17x7 with 215/45 stock Bridgestone RE92. I believe stock wheel is just about 20-21 lbs. RE92=23 lbs. Total: 43-44 lbs.

 

Stock 17x7 with 225/45 Yokohama Avid W4S. I think the tires were about 23 lbs so 43-44 lbs total.

 

Volk CE28N 18x7.5 with 215/40. VERY lightweight rim, about 14.5 lbs. General Exclaim UHP tires were 19.6 lbs each (also very light), making total wheel weight 34.1 lbs

 

Stock 17x7 with 215/45 Dunlop Wintersport M3. No idea what the weight is on this, but I think winter tires are generally heavier.

 

Sparco 17x7.5 with 215/45 Yokohama S.drive. Rim:18.5 lbs, tire: 23 lbs. Total: 41.5 lbs.

 

So, any difference for daily driving? Not significantly. Certainly not enough to justify the cost of a super expensive lightweight rim. (Volks) I wouldn't recommend having low profile wheels that cost a lot in NYC either. I dented two of my Volks which is why I replaced them with Sparcos.

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I can notice a difference in ride quality, thats all. Less unsprung weight.

 

Great point. I went from OEM 18s with 215/45/18 to Enkei EKM3 17s with 215/50/50 and the ride quality is significantly better. Handling is a bit worse, but for every day use I'll take the ride quality.

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its not the rim size but the overall diameter of the assembly. a 245/40/17, a 215/45/17(stock lgt sizing) and a 245/35/18 have the same overall diameter, but a 225/45/17 or a 235/40/18 is a taller setup so that will make it a little harder for the car to accelerate and brake, though you will get more top speed.

 

no one ever considers this when tire buying for their wheels. this is why i like to keep to stock overall diameter unless im buying tires for gearing. this will affect the cars response alot more than a 5-10lb change in wheel weight per corner.

 

I was trying to make a bit of a joke with the 14". I have been browsing Tire Rack for some wheels / tires and just assumed that they would offer up the factory O.D. tire, I will make sure to check.

 

Thanks again to all for your comments, I think I am going to end up with the Sparco wheels (seem to be a great value priced wheel) knowing that the weight should not matter.

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