2007 SPEC B - Low then normal vacuum & misfire on 1 cylinder

I was driving down the highway at 80mph, not in sport mode so I don't believe I was making any boost, actual I wasn't according to my gauge, when all the sudden everything starts flashing(cruise control, CEL, ABS), I pull over I have a more advanced scan tool where I can look at specific systems, like ECU, TPMS. or just regular DTC's. I had were misfire on cylinder #2 and occasionally #1, but had half or so the regular vacuum I normally would have at idle.

 

I limped to the garage, cleaned MAF, changed #2 plug was covered in oil, searched and traced every vacuum line inspected nothing was disconnected or cracked. I've experienced when a hose came off and boost gauge read nothing, normally at idle boost gauge reads 20 vacuum, now it reads between 10-15 closer to 15 and as I increase throttle vacuum increase, instead of going towards boost.

 

I can't make the connection between misfires and vacuum, but I read a suggestion about intake manifold gaskets and will be replacing tonight, as well as PCV.

 

I also noticed a decent oil residue in the intercooler, could this be from a bad PCV valve? Could a bad PCV affect the vacuum.

 

Its crazy just prior to this event I was driving turbo on and off for at least 30-45 mins no issues. Im cruising at 80 not under boost and boom.

 

I'm totally confused, also picked up a coil pack for #2, but doubt its of significance, cause while on the side of the road as I let it warm up and idle, at one point there were hardly any misfires.

 

I did also listen to engine while misfiring and heard a whooshing noise that seemed to come from the air pump area, was it just the pump running?

 

Any advice would be enormously appreciated.

I'd be doing a compression check at least in Cyl #2.... sounds to be like it dropped a cylinder.

Its not just misfiring on one cylinder, its sporadically misfiring a little on every cylinder but 4, 2 is the worst and 1 is half as bad, replaced plug in 2 was bad...Cylinder 1 not so bad, still back to misfiring, and vacuum isn't right as my boost gauge always shows 20 at idle its sitting around ten, when I accelerate the vacuum increases. Traced every single hose in existence.

A bad PCV can cause oil in places you don't want it.

 

IDK if it will effect vacuum.

 

Have you tried a boost leak test ?

 

I take the hose of the air filter box, plug it with a pint size paint can. Pull the small hose off the blow off valve, give that hose a short blast of air (10-12psi) from my compressor, put my thumb over the hose, listen for air leaks.

 

You may have missed a crack in one of the vacuum hoses...

I wanted to, but its my daily driver, its now at a solely Subaru mechanic, but its been almost a week an older, guy who I know is a good guy. I did my clutch for the first time I have the FSM saw all kinds of u tube videos spent days trying to brake the trans free from the engine after days of getting a few hours a night working 8 hours then right to the car, I finally got it was about 11pm, i was excited so excited and burned out I put the throw out bearing in BACKWARDS! Get everything together push the clutch in and my heart sank, I've done complete suspension swaps, timing belts, but never serious engine work. Defeated took it to him, I saw my engine mount was cracked and drops of oil on my filter. He charged me for just time, which in effect was a simple fix with the right tools and a lift. But was like o crap forgot I took the engine mount bolt out brought it back on the lift and was like these mounts are gel filled, the rubber cracked isnt a big deal, so u dont need to replace it, then I asked about the oil, "was like my buddy is saying oil pan gasket", shook his head Subaru doesn't use gaskets, remove ur oil filter, the cooler on top has a gasket, replace it. What mechanic Subaru mechanic would give out free knowledge like that at a stealership? He was f'in right, replaced the $4 gasket on oil cooler, no more leak. I read about doing the leak test, but had minimal resources, my car is stuck at my work that has a nice heated huge garage some tools but no lift, and I can take a company vehicle home, but only to home and work. I set a dead line, replaced the one plug, traced every vacuum line got a PCV, when I replaced plug 2 on cylinder 1 it was late and got so frustrated at coil pack not going in i threw in the towel, I dint have means for smoke and not about to spray brake clean on rubber hoses.

 

I read it might be injectors, could be manifold gasket, cleaned MAF 3x, wasn't sure about PCV, but read it was difficult, got pressure from outside family which really pissed me off as they meant well but felt like they thought I was in over my head, I have carsoft i103 or what ever reader as welll as FreeSSM and SSM3, but dont have the outrageous $300 module. Have the carsoft computer as well as the USB cable that supports the specific standard for the SSM, but I guess u need that stupid module.

 

Figured this guy knows Subaru but is a one man show, closed Fridays and wasn't gonna get a chance to even look until day after I dropped off. So went by gave complete run down, he saw the gaskets for intake manifold and was gave this vibe like lets hope we dont need to replace them, I mean the leak is small, normal vacuum is 20 mmhg? its sitting just over 10, i had a hose blow completely off the back of the manifold once and boost gauge is sitting at 0. Idk vacuum maybe with electrical, or O2 sensor upstream, but no codes except for random misfiring, and NOT once on cylinder 4, which to me is weird, like I said before 2 was the worst, plug was in really bad shape 1 would occasionally misfire and 3 even less. Something isnt reading correctly, and there is an issue post MAF.

 

Called today, left message no word bad feeling, NOT TAKING IT TO STEALERSHIP, id diagnose some more, maybe spend 300 on SSM module, then engine swap up, cause its got 172k on it and money for Subaru to **** around is damn near what I saw for complete engines with all accessories.

good move, random misfires are hard to diagnose. it could be anything , lets hope that your mechanic is good at picking issues specially no DTC's.

Well timing, jumped cause D bag I bought it from never had the belt changed according to my mechanic, put new belt set time. A valve is fucked, hes a one man band that doesn't have the means. Now I dont know what to do I LOVE that car, do I take it to Subaru? Which Im ball-parking 5k or do i get another engine he said he put it in for 1200, prob is spec b engines are a little rare. IDK take it to Subaru? They said 180 to diagnose, which goes towards whole price, is just a burnt valve or a bent one and prob atleast 2 cylinders.

 

I dont want to give the car up need advice, mean time bought car from this idiot who has a bugeye in NJ, maybe some have seen it, I should put him on blast in this fourm....Told me when I bought it timing belt was changed, mechanic shows me the old timing belt has cracks alllll over it and said one of the idle bearings is complely shot, he said if it was done had to be over 150k miles ago, car has 170. I contact d bag ask him at time of sale for records never got em, asked agin, and said u had all periodic maintenance was done like timing belt yeaaa, i respond welll car says otherwise mechanically, tell him Im taking it to Subaru and sending him the bill or taking him to court. Never signed any documents at sale besides title. People are like good luck getting that money, ive done pro se in civil before, im not a lawyer but know ythe process. I hear a lot of good luck getting the money from him, but I have mechanical proof, plus he admits in email timing belt was done, but threw out all the records.

 

Can I re-coup money from him (NJ)

Should I take it to subaru

should i get a replacement?

Also having difficultly finding a replacement engine any EJ255 around 05 and later should work correct?

You don't need a "spec B engine" any EJ255/257 will be the same as far as the long block goes.

 

A used long block is going to cost you $2500 at the least. Have you considered buying a new short block, having your heads reconditioned at a machine shop? New short block can be had for $1700-$1800 IIRC.

edited due to your update

im on a time frame, id take the long block, my mechanic said i think later this week he can start, said 1200 to put a used in but cant find a used these guys at junkyards are clueless im liki just need a legacy gt fro 05-08

 

dont even throw in spec b cause then thier heads are spinning, what about a sti engine in those years? too many issues with harness etc?

Edited February 2, 2020 by phish27134
more info

An STI longblock of those years will have active exhaust cams, which your car doesn't. It'll run with them disconnected, but it won't run 'right' and you'll probably need to tune for it. An STI shortblock of any year will work, though, if you use your heads and manifold/harness. Many of us on here are running them.

 

Also be aware that the 05-06 LGT had some emissions differences (no secondary air pump), so those longblocks would work but you'd have to at least disable some codes in the ECU.

 

A longblock out of an 08-14 WRX will also work with minimal tweaks.

 

Oh, and the OBXT motors were the same as LGT year for year, so don't limit the search to LGT only.

Edited February 2, 2020 by awfulwaffle