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Blown Turbo = What's it Worth? Fix vs. Sell for loss?


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2005 LGT + Blown Turbo:mad: (~115K Mileage)

 

Previous Mods:

Stage II (Up/Downpipe & Tune)

Enkei 18" Rims

 

Recent Adds: (Oct 2015)

Shocks = Koni Yellows

Sway Bars

Whiteline Bushings

Oil Line Kit

DBA Rotors

Porterfield Pads

Stainless Brake Lines

 

So the question becomes what to do - Replace with VF52 & Short Block or sell the car and move on? Or Chance a new VF52 and Oil Flush (Knowing that's a failure down the road...)?

 

Note - I don't have the tools or time to do the work myself - so local shop is on deck if I decide to fix it.... (Estimating $9.5K for full work / less for just Turbo)

 

I enjoy driving it (especially with the latest suspension upgrades...) and it's exactly what I would prefer for my commuter car - semi quick and agile (fun to drive) - but $10K becomes problematic for the wife....

 

Really just trying to determine if I sell the car what I could realistically get for it as it sits? Since I REFUSE to drive a beater or some Toyota people mover - if it's worth little to nothing - and I have to spend $10K just to get into a car that I can drive to work - I'll probably just bite the bullet and fix it....:hide:

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It sounds like you want to get the car back on the road. I'd go that route. Depending on when you caught that the turbo was blown you may be able to flush the oil and be good but it can all vary.

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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My local shop quoted me $7500 for a new OEM shortblock, rebuilt heads, oil cooler, oil pickup, downpipe, and a dyno tune. They quoted me $9000 for the same mods with a built block.

 

Your shop's estimate sounds a little high.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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An '05 is worth $4500 private party, $2500 trade-in, with a working engine.

 

Given that all feasible repair options are over the "working" value, its current value is "scrap weight".

 

I'm not trying to be a dick, just a undiplomatic realist. If you put $10k into the engine, you wind up with a car that's worth less than half of that. If you put $10k into a newer car, you wind up with a car worth $10k. That's the long and short of it.

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Part it out. The proceeds plus $10k will but you a newer LGT.

 

Dump a bunch of money into another turbo subaru with possibly unknown history and a used motor instead of a new one? This is a bad plan, IMO.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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I was just in a similar situation, but with an 05 LGT limited 5spd wagon, so at least the model was worth a bit more. I realized there was no good decision. Either way I was losing a lot of money. so I spent the 7,500 to rebuild with forged internals. Now I have a car that is worth half the amount of money I've put into it and I may need to sell do to a new addition to the family. If I do, the next buyer is sure getting a great deal!Taking the loss and putting it into another car is not a bad idea. Just as long as you don't end up in the same boat. If you decide to part out. I'll take the sways ;)

 

 

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Thanks for the replies so far guys - good thoughts!

 

#1 - No option for me to part it out or fix it myself (no time/tools/space) - So it's either sell as is or fix it in some fashion.

#2 - The estimate is strictly my own math right now - but I think it's close based on what I've seen as the costs others here on LGT have had and basic prices listed on the shops site - it also includes a some fudge factor for unforeseen costs & and an intercooler that could be eliminated to drop the costs - Basically it's not 100% accurate but a good basis for estimating outcome - I could throw a Turbo on it and get out for $3K - but that's just kicking the can down the road....:redface:

#3 yup - it's going to cost me either way - but trying to minimize the loss and get out with as much skin intact as I can....:nono:

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This happened to me last year (almost a year exactly know). Basically, I thought, is there anything else out there in the $10k range that I want to drive.

 

At that point (still is) the answer was no. So, I did the rebuild.

 

I kept adding stuff to the rebuild, new clutch, KillerB setup (pan, pickup, baffle), and a VF52.

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If you didn't drive the car after the turbo blew, engine should still be fine. A used VF40 will run you under $300. Installing it is actually fairly easy too, just need some basic tools and enough brain power unbolt and retorque bolts.

 

 

An '05 is worth $4500 private party, $2500 trade-in, with a working engine.

 

Given that all feasible repair options are over the "working" value, its current value is "scrap weight".

 

I'm not trying to be a dick, just a undiplomatic realist. If you put $10k into the engine, you wind up with a car that's worth less than half of that. If you put $10k into a newer car, you wind up with a car worth $10k. That's the long and short of it.

 

KBB undervalues older cars majorly, good luck finding an 05 LGT with that many miles for $4.5k, it most likely will have 150k+ miles. Nada is saying the values is $7.7k for clean retail, and $5.4k for clean trade in, private value will be someplace in between those numbers.

 

To our point, even if the car is worth 8k, it would be financially dumb to spend $10k to fix it, especially if long term retention is not in the plans.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I have one for sale if you didn't drive the car and want a 75k mile turbo. I've gotten offers on it but they haven't gotten back to me with a ZIP to give shipping estimates. Let me know if you'd be interested.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249644

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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KBB undervalues older cars majorly, good luck finding an 05 LGT with that many miles for $4.5k, it most likely will have 150k+ miles. Nada is saying the values is $7.7k for clean retail, and $5.4k for clean trade in, private value will be someplace in between those numbers.

 

To our point, even if the car is worth 8k, it would be financially dumb to spend $10k to fix it, especially if long term retention is not in the plans.

 

NADA on my '05 was $8600 or $8800 (72k miles, Limited 5MT, very clean), so I'd believe $7700 for a car with 155k. Despite this, the going rate for cars like that (based on my own shopping, as well as dealer contacts I was working with in my search) was much closer to $10-11k.

 

A $5k LGT or OBXT with a manual has 175k on the odo.

 

Slushboxes were cheaper, because there were so many more of them around.

 

These things are in a weird "semi-collector" market status. They're not incredibly rare, but they are desirable enough that market value is regularly well above KBB or NADA valuations.

 

Not hard to see why. $10k will get you a really nice one, and it's a hell of a lot of car for the money. I have friends that just spent $20-25k on new cars, and they've generally had the opinion that mine is nicer.

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$9000 for an engine rebuild is extremely excessive IMO. At least around here in the DC area, multiple quality shops like Andrewtech Automotive will do it for about $5500-6000 (add on the cost of a turbo). Have you tried calling a well regarded shop for a quote? The Shop in CT up by you is supposed to be really good.

 

NADA on my '05 was $8600 or $8800 (72k miles, Limited 5MT, very clean), so I'd believe $7700 for a car with 155k. Despite this, the going rate for cars like that (based on my own shopping, as well as dealer contacts I was working with in my search) was much closer to $10-11k.

 

A $5k LGT or OBXT with a manual has 175k on the odo.

 

Slushboxes were cheaper, because there were so many more of them around.

 

These things are in a weird "semi-collector" market status. They're not incredibly rare, but they are desirable enough that market value is regularly well above KBB or NADA valuations.

 

Not hard to see why. $10k will get you a really nice one, and it's a hell of a lot of car for the money. I have friends that just spent $20-25k on new cars, and they've generally had the opinion that mine is nicer.

 

Yep, this is doubly true for the spec.B.

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I would say if your plan is to sell it at a loss and turn around and buy another LGT then just fix it and have a new motor that is a known commodity instead of an unknown used LGT.

 

If your plan is to sell it at a loss and move on to something non Subaru then just sell it and move on.

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Well - I've convinced the wife that a replacement engine is the right choice - so VF52 + New Engine is the current plan.:wub:

 

I'm also planning on the full Killer B Oil pan (with Pickup and Baffle):cool:

 

Bring on the twisties and power:rolleyes:;)

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Do you have a mechanic that you trust to do the work ?

 

I know a great machine shop in Somersville and a great mechanic there too.

 

PM me if you want info, do you know where the short block will come from, I can may be get you a discount at Suburban Subaru.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks - Car is already with the local Subie Shop - and they'll be the ones to handle it all... They do at least an engine a month - so pretty sure they have it down - but not sure who exactly supplies their short blocks though (I plan to talk with them this week - maybe I'll ask).
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  • 4 weeks later...

Welcome Home!! - Car is back in action after a few weeks at the shop:

#1 - New Engine/Rebuilt Heads

#2 - New VF52

#3 - Full Killer B Oil Pan Setup (Pan/Baffle/Pickup)

#4 - DW 265 Fuel Pump

 

Now makes 261/288 vs the VF40 at 225/280 - but they discovered that the I/C is leaking and it's only able to be tuned to 14 1/2 to 15 lbs of boost.....

 

So now I need to plead with the wife for a GS I/C and probably some new injectors too:p:wub:

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That's what the shop tuner said as well - but they feel that with an upgraded IC it's too close to the verge of 100% duty cycle - and really want injectors to make sure they can safely tune the car...

 

While plenty of folks can and do run the VF52 on stock parts (some don't even have a upgraded pump) - I'm more of one to spend a little extra to ensure the car stays solidly stable as it's also a DD.

 

But it does seem to run pretty good so far with just a pump and a leaking I/C:cool:

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I can't believe you put so much money into replacing the engine on an '05... :mad:

 

 

 

...just like I did. :spin:

 

 

You and I are of like minds. You can't get the LGT driving experience for the cost of a new engine. Financially, a questionable decision.. but that spool tho... :wub:

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So many of us have done the same. There is no reasoning with my build spread sheet. It is what it is. A broken car that you own is a sunken cost. No way to recover what happened. At that point you have a scrap heap worth nearly nothing. When you factor in what 10k really gets you these days (especially in salt states), a new motor in a rust free car for 10k is a great deal. Especially going from stage 0 to stage 2-ish in my case.
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