Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

on the sealant for the cams did you use it sparingly? too much goop around the cam ends is a common problem

 

Check post #742

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6042777&postcount=742

 

I used tiny pipe cleaners to ensure the oil galleys were clear. I cleared them until I could see light through them.

Next is the bottom end stuff, oil pickup, oil cooler, pan etc. I have the killer b oil pickup and windage tray.

 

I use an oil pan gasket... not glue! They make em so I buy em, they are 5-10 bucks and much simpler to deal with than all this damn sealant. I've been using them for years without a problem, considering I am always dropping the pan to inspect things it just makes life easier.

New oil cooler? I have tonspurce one for my build. I understand they are tough to clean after a failure.

 

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New oil cooler? I have tonspurce one for my build. I understand they are tough to clean after a failure.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

Yep, the oil cooler has to much hidden surface area, and you can't open it up or clean it out like the avcs and oil pump.... its the must change part, because its non serviceable.

New oil cooler? I have tonspurce one for my build. I understand they are tough to clean after a failure.

 

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reusing an oil cooler is a guaranteed engine failure. Many (all the ones still in business) require proof of oil cooler replacement before honoring a shortblock warranty.

reusing an oil cooler is a guaranteed engine failure. Many (all the ones still in business) require proof of oil cooler replacement before honoring a shortblock warranty.

I figured and it was on the list of yet to buy parts. I placed the order for that and a few other pieces of the puzzle last night. Should probably update my own thread. I'm a slacker.

 

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I figured and it was on the list of yet to buy parts. I placed the order for that and a few other pieces of the puzzle last night. Should probably update my own thread. I'm a slacker.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

trolling and posting on other ppl's build threads keeps your own really tidy. I'm a fan.

Got the oil pickup, windage tray and oil pan put on.

 

 

Then I installed water pump, oil cooler, some coolant hoses and oil dipstick.

 

I completely mixed up the cam seals and butchered them all taking them out..... ordered a new set!

 

The avcs cam seal (intake) has space between the cam and seal, while the non avcs (exhaust) is a flush seal.

 

I also ordered this tool to make it easier to install for next time.

https://www.flatironstuning.com/asf-machine-camshaft-seal-installation-tool-ej

 

Video on how to install seals with the tool

My custom 3 gauge a pillar pod arrived last week. Awesome work by JCSpods!!

Have my boost gauge on top then a/f ratio from wideband, and last is oil pressure & temp.

 

 

This is going to be an absolute pita to install with all the wires. Anyone know a good line to splice off for dimming?

Edited September 16, 2021 by Tehnation

I've come across these and always wondered the quality. I hope to see pics of it installed in your car.

the quality is high considering it uses the original subaru a pillar! I had to buy a used one off of ebay for them to use as a base.

I half installed it to see how it would look and to see which way to align the gauges.

 

 

Doesn't that middle one hit your hands?

Not at all! Its a good distance away from my hands. Maybe these will have a better angle.

 

 

 

 

they are perfectly in my line of sight. and the closest distance is about 4".

 

Edited September 16, 2021 by Tehnation

Got the exhaust and timing done. Bought OTC 7419 Timing Tensioner Locking Pin Set, cause paper clips were not working lol!

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-7419

 

 

 

Got the exhaust and timing done. Bought OTC 7419 Timing Tensioner Locking Pin Set, cause paper clips were not working lol!

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-7419

 

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I recently got to breathe a whole lungfull of that DEI wrap fibergrlass, pulling it off after it started to disintegrate 17.5k miles after I installed it. Run only during the warm season. Did a great job rusting up my ELH despite the 5 layers of header paint on it. Would not wrap again.

Not to derail the thread but what is the deal with wrapping down pipes? Good or bad? And what is better a turbo heat shield or a turbo blanket?

 

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I think it depends on the wrap. I'm using some cheap shit that disintegrates like awfulwaffle stated. I see it falling apart already and I haven't even put 100 miles on it, its just been sitting in my garage for about a year or 2. But the headers put out so much heat, so I duno. I think I just need a better quality wrap or something else. What I got sucks.

 

I think someone had linked the right wrap to use in the past, can't remember. You need the really good stuff that works at the right temperature.

Edited October 2, 2021 by Tehnation

And done! I gotta figure out which hose goes to what on the turbo from the boost controller..... and I gotta install rear main seal, flywheel and clutch. And then its ready to go in. I think I need to find or buy some accessory belts as well.

 

I basically left the entire wiring harness and intake manifold intact, I just unbolted the 4 bolts on each side of my tgv deletes to pull the entire thing up, fueling, air etc. Makes it a lot easier than dismantling everything.

WTF, i don't remember the rear main seal being so damn annoying to install...... gotta order another one......I'm tempted to order this

https://www.flatironstuning.com/asf-machine-rear-main-seal-installation-tool-ej , but I said let me try again a in a couple days after I cool down....

 

I'm so pissed.... I wanted to try and get the motor in today/tomorrow, but ended up butchering the seal because it kept going in to deep on one side. Next step grease it down like a squealing pig.

Not to derail the thread but what is the deal with wrapping down pipes? Good or bad? And what is better a turbo heat shield or a turbo blanket?

 

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From all the issues, IMO you're much better to have the pipe ceramic coated.

 

I also pulled my entire intake assembly as a unit, too. It just makes sense.

 

 

 

Have you thought about using a block of 2x4 to keep the oil seal flat during install ?

I use a 3D printed seal driver for the rear main. That said, it still takes some finesse and isn't a sure shot deal like the tool you linked. If you want, though, I can make you one for the cost of shipping.