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JDM Folding Outer Mirrors Walkthrough


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If you are going to pull your door cards and re-pin again anyway, could you please take note of the correct color combinations for the passenger-side adjustment motor. Dade was going to do so earlier in the thread, but never did.

 

I have my passenger (right) side mirror wired so that up & down are reversed.

 

It's a 2008 USDM car, with heated mirrors.

 

Right now I have this wire arrangement on the right mirror, that leads to a reversed up & down mirror angle for the joystick control:

 

(mirror) purple ---> (car) blue & white striped

(mirror) pink ---> (car) blue

(mirror) black ---> (car) yellow

(mirror) white ---> (car) blue & yellow striped

(mirror) blue & red soldered together ---> (car) blue & red striped

(mirror) black ---> (car) black

(mirror) green ---> (car) black

 

And just for reference again, the driver's (left) side all works perfectly, and so here is the color connection chart for the left side:

 

(mirror) purple --->(car) red & white striped

(mirror) pink ---> (car) red & yellow striped

(mirror) black ---> (car) yellow

(mirror) white ---> (car) black

(mirror) blue & red soldered together ---> (car) blue & red striped

(mirror) black ---> (car) black

(mirror) green ---> (car) red & black striped

 

Thanks much, iNfEk.

Greetings all. Was this ever solved? Assistance appreciated. Cheers

 

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Greetings all. Was this ever solved? Assistance appreciated. Cheers

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L23 using Tapatalk

 

No.

 

Is this happening to you as well?

 

I tried using both the 2005 JDM joystick and the 2008 USDM joystick, as Dade suggested at post#127 in this thread. But there was no difference in operation, despite the internal changes in the joystick logic that Subaru made from 2005 to 2008 (Dade's post #128 in this thread).

 

Vertical control of the passenger door mirror is still reversed on my car, up/down.

 

In practical terms, it's not that big a deal. Because the passenger door mirror is convex, once the position is set, it's pretty much universal for every driver. My wife and I only adjust the mirror position on the driver's door when we swap seats. Passenger mirror door is "set it and forget it".

 

But if you or someone else has a new idea, I'd love to clean up this minor annoyance.

 

When Dade and I went through the wiring diagrams earlier in the thread, it looked like I had wired everything correctly, so this remains a mystery problem.

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No.

 

Is this happening to you as well?

 

I tried using both the 2005 JDM joystick and the 2008 USDM joystick, as Dade suggested at post#127 in this thread. But there was no difference in operation, despite the internal changes in the joystick logic that Subaru made from 2005 to 2008 (Dade's post #128 in this thread).

 

Vertical control of the passenger door mirror is still reversed on my car, up/down.

 

In practical terms, it's not that big a deal. Because the passenger door mirror is convex, once the position is set, it's pretty much universal for every driver. My wife and I only adjust the mirror position on the driver's door when we swap seats. Passenger mirror door is "set it and forget it".

 

But if you or someone else has a new idea, I'd love to clean up this minor annoyance.

 

When Dade and I went through the wiring diagrams earlier in the thread, it looked like I had wired everything correctly, so this remains a mystery problem.

Yea happening to me also.

 

I tried the JDM switch, original switch, switch from a wagon where the issue is not present...same result...even if I plug in the lhd mirror into the harness it's the same issue.

 

The wires going to the joystick is the same. I even reverted to the original mirror on the rhd side...same reversed direction.

 

So the issue is present with the use of the original rhd mirror. I don't know if I did something wrong while repinning the first time. Trying to get the original pin out for the rhd side mirror.

 

I also have the JDM harness from the door relating to the mirror. I noticed that the pink and blue mirror wires are connected to the red blue stripe on the car..so basically they both are fed through a splice

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L23 using Tapatalk

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Yea happening to me also.

 

I tried the JDM switch, original switch, switch from a wagon where the issue is not present...same result...even if I plug in the lhd mirror into the harness it's the same issue.

 

The wires going to the joystick is the same. I even reverted to the original mirror on the rhd side...same reversed direction.

 

So the issue is present with the use of the original rhd mirror. I don't know if I did something wrong while repinning the first time. Trying to get the original pin out for the rhd side mirror.

 

I also have the JDM harness from the door relating to the mirror. I noticed that the pink and blue mirror wires are connected to the red blue stripe on the car..so basically they both are fed through a splice

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L23 using Tapatalk

SOLVED!

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L23 using Tapatalk

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Using a circuit tester identify the + wires that are responsible for the up and down movement on the car harness and just swap them.

 

It was obvious that two wires got mixed up .. just wasn't sure which one.

 

NB. In my experience there are two wires that are red with blue stripe and can be easily be mixed up. So those two and the red with yellow stripe are the ones to keep in mind and at the same time don't be biased in testing.

 

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Anyone knows what the purpose of the yellow/black(car) and black/Black(mirror) wires? 10 pin JDM harness

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L23 using Tapatalk

 

heating element? Did you check one of the previous posts with the Tribeca FSM screenshot? info may be there.

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heating element? Did you check one of the previous posts with the Tribeca FSM screenshot? info may be there.
Yeah read through the entire thread. Saw mention of the non polarised black/black heating element. Wasn't sure why the mirror and car would have the wiring but no element. JDM Legacys apparently doesn't come with heated mirrors as an option.

 

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Using a circuit tester identify the + wires that are responsible for the up and down movement on the car harness and just swap them.

 

It was obvious that two wires got mixed up .. just wasn't sure which one.

 

NB. In my experience there are two wires that are red with blue stripe and can be easily be mixed up. So those two and the red with yellow stripe are the ones to keep in mind and at the same time don't be biased in testing.

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L23 using Tapatalk

 

Hi great work.

 

Can you please correct the table that I posted earlier?

 

Where did I go wrong here?

 

This old wiring table must be the same thing you did, so please tell us what you switched around:

 

Right now I have this wire arrangement on the right mirror, that leads to a reversed up & down mirror angle for the joystick control:

 

(mirror) purple ---> (car) blue & white striped

(mirror) pink ---> (car) blue

(mirror) black ---> (car) yellow

(mirror) white ---> (car) blue & yellow striped

(mirror) blue & red soldered together ---> (car) blue & red striped

(mirror) black ---> (car) black

(mirror) green ---> (car) black

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  • 6 months later...
So what would be the easiest way for getting the heated mirror working overall? Everyone had ideas but to me there was no one clear way to achieve this. I'm about to purchase the JDM mirrors and will have someone install for me but wanted to know the simplest method.
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  • 4 months later...
Anyone knows what the purpose of the yellow/black(car) and black/Black(mirror) wires? 10 pin JDM harness

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L23 using Tapatalk

 

Oops wrong quote. Sorry. Disregard

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  • 11 months later...

I picked up some BP9 mirrors that are heated and folding. I also bought them in the same color as my car so I could just use them instead of disassembling and reassembling everything.

 

These mirrors have the 10 pin so I did the dremel and repin method that Blink wrote up in post #55.

 

Everything works correctly but I noticed the JDM heated mirrors only get slightly warm while the USDM mirrors get hot. I was curious so I disassembled them and they are quite different. The pattern of the heating element is visibly different as well as what looks like an additional grounding tab in the corner that the JDM mirror doesn't have. Also the JDM mirrors are not as bright and clear as the USDM. Strangely, this time and this time only it seems that the USDM got something better.

 

The only thing I don't like about the install is that at the adjustment needed for RHD mirrors to work for me there is a noticeable gap between the mirror and housing. Is there a way to address this? For the people that have used the JDM mirrors to rebuild their USDM mirrors do you still have the angle problem or is the angle made by the internals that are connected to the folding mechanism?

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I picked up some BP9 mirrors that are heated and folding. I also bought them in the same color as my car so I could just use them instead of disassembling and reassembling everything.

 

These mirrors have the 10 pin so I did the dremel and repin method that Blink wrote up in post #55.

 

Everything works correctly but I noticed the JDM heated mirrors only get slightly warm while the USDM mirrors get hot. I was curious so I disassembled them and they are quite different. The pattern of the heating element is visibly different as well as what looks like an additional grounding tab in the corner that the JDM mirror doesn't have. Also the JDM mirrors are not as bright and clear as the USDM. Strangely, this time and this time only it seems that the USDM got something better.

 

The only thing I don't like about the install is that at the adjustment needed for RHD mirrors to work for me there is a noticeable gap between the mirror and housing. Is there a way to address this? For the people that have used the JDM mirrors to rebuild their USDM mirrors do you still have the angle problem or is the angle made by the internals that are connected to the folding mechanism?

 

Oh... that might explain why it didn't seem like my pre-facelight JDM folding mirrors didn't really heat up. Really curious to find out if there is a fix.

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Oh... that might explain why it didn't seem like my pre-facelight JDM folding mirrors didn't really heat up. Really curious to find out if there is a fix.

 

The mirrors pop out pretty easily without any disassembly. So if you still have some USDM mirrors or get some from a junkyard you can easily swap those. Just need a flat screwdriver and pry from the bottom (with mirror tilted all the way up) to undo them then they have to go upward (with mirror tilted all the way down) to come out. The mirror and heating element come out as one.

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The mirrors pop out pretty easily without any disassembly. So if you still have some USDM mirrors or get some from a junkyard you can easily swap those. Just need a flat screwdriver and pry from the bottom (with mirror tilted all the way up) to undo them then they have to go upward (with mirror tilted all the way down) to come out. The mirror and heating element come out as one.

 

Can I swap the USDM heating element onto the JDM glass?

I much prefer the JDM glass in the mirrors

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Can I swap the USDM heating element onto the JDM glass?

I much prefer the JDM glass in the mirrors

 

Good question. Post #54 has the glass and heater separated from the plastic mounting which is one step further than I went. There are no fasteners shown so it might be glued on. Curious, what's better about the JDM glass?

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Hoo boy I have not thought about Subaru mirrors in a long time! I guess I was still subscribed to this thread...

 

Everything works correctly but I noticed the JDM heated mirrors only get slightly warm while the USDM mirrors get hot. I was curious so I disassembled them and they are quite different. The pattern of the heating element is visibly different as well as what looks like an additional grounding tab in the corner that the JDM mirror doesn't have. Also the JDM mirrors are not as bright and clear as the USDM. Strangely, this time and this time only it seems that the USDM got something better.

 

So I am wondering if there was a revision or supplier change along the way, either in production, or as replacement parts later. I don't recall that particular heating problem, and I do recall seeing those two types of heating element patterns on various mirrors, either JDM or the USDM. Unfortunately I just tossed out a box of various extra mirror glass a few weeks ago, they would have been mostly the unheated ones that nobody wanted but I could have taken a look at them. I too preferred at least the JDM right side glass, same convex mirror but with out the "objects in mirror..." etching required in the US. I was not a big fan of the convex JDM left side mirror. FYI This is typical JDM they use convex (wide angle) glass on both sides. US requires flat glass for the driver, and wide angle on the pass side with the requisite warning.

 

The only thing I don't like about the install is that at the adjustment needed for RHD mirrors to work for me there is a noticeable gap between the mirror and housing. Is there a way to address this? For the people that have used the JDM mirrors to rebuild their USDM mirrors do you still have the angle problem or is the angle made by the internals that are connected to the folding mechanism?

 

The Subaru mirrors don't deal with the LHD to RHD orientation the way many other cars do. The typical way is the mirror mount ("triangle" base) angles the mirror body different on each side, and then opposite for the other orientation. Even my new Volvo works this way, much to the chagrin of the symmetry loving owners ha. On the Subaru the mirrors are at the same angle, and there are spacers on the motor units, that hold them at different angles for LHD vs RHD. Once you've taken off the mirror glass, you have exposed the screws that hold the motor units. IIRC you can get to all the screws there and pull out the motor unit. There should be a plug on the back and you could swap the motor units from your original LHD mirrors in there, so you are converted to the proper angles.

 

There is also a little trim piece on the inner side of whichever mirror is the passenger's side, would be the right on the LHD, that fills the gap on the left side as the mirror is typically adjusted. In true cost savings action, this trim is not on whatever is the "driver's side" mirror for each respective setup. You could also swap that trim strip from your original pass side mirror if you care. I can't recall how you get to that screw, I think you need to take the mirror cap off and unscrew a single screw from the back side to remove that. With the glass off you should be able to release the cap without further disassembling the mirror. The cap clips are hard to work with and you need to be careful not to break them or crack the paint on the cap but otherwise easy to do.

 

Can I swap the USDM heating element onto the JDM glass?

I much prefer the JDM glass in the mirrors

 

The heating element is fused to the glass. It's like asking to swap your rear defogger grid to a new window, that ain't going to happen ;-)

 

Hope that helps!

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Can I swap the USDM heating element onto the JDM glass?

I much prefer the JDM glass in the mirrors

 

 

yes you can. It just requires some patience. I did it when I sent the USDM mirror glass to a guy here that sells blue convex mirror glass for LGTs.

 

You need some sort of vessel where you can submerge the mirror in hot water(a Home Depot bucket should do), and a heat gun or hair dryer, and something flat like a chisel but from plastic. I used cheap $5 interior panel takeoff set from HF.

 

Submerge the mirror glass with heating element on it in the bucket with hot water, let it soak there for few minutes to soften the glue. Then put the mirror glass down on some flat surface (I used my workbench with towel thrown on it) and while using heat gun/hair dryer to warm up the heating element, try get the prying tool under one of the angles of the heating element. Once you have it under the edge, just heat some more with heat gun and work the tool under the element. Proceed until you remove the element completely. The glue is some sort of black tar so you'll get it all over the tool and your hands. I used cheap mechanic gloves from HF again here - they also protect your hands from heat coming from the heat gun.

 

Be patient as applying too much force may break the mirror glass itself.

 

 

You also need to have some hard clean surface where you want the USDM heating element to go when you take it off. Don't want that tar to get all dirty and not sticky.

 

JDM mirror glass is better for visibility since they are convex on both sides. USDM only passenger side is.

 

I drove my son's 05 OB with JDM mirrors I put on it in the winter and too noticed that it takes a bit more time for them to get clear. Probably has to do with where Japan is compared to US north. Worked fine though here in RI/Mass and he traveled all the way up north to Mt Tremblant in the winter.

Edited by SubOperator

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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  • 2 weeks later...

*NOTE* Ckwaters and I got together and came to find out that our BP9 mirrors had different heating elements.

 

*Preface: I'm in the process of going from pre-facelift heated mirrors w/o a turn signal to post-facelift heated mirrors w/ a turn signal.*

 

Initially, I thought I was going to have to swap my USDM heater assembly to the my JDM mirrors in place of the less-desired JDM heater assembly. I say "less-desired" because a side-by-side comparison shows that the USDM heater assemblies put out a lot more heat than their JDM counterparts, which are barely noticeable to the touch. Upon further analysis, I came to find that my JDM mirrors came with a heater assembly similar in appearance to our USDM mirrors. See Ckwaters' post #167 for reference photos (JDM - left & USDM - right. After plugging them up to activate the heater, they warmed up as our USDM mirrors do - HOT! Fantastic, that saves me a little less headache.

 

Granted, I did get mine second-hand from another LGT owner, I doubt he took the time or effort in swapping heating elements. A quick glance didn't show any of the assembly to be tampered with. In fact, I appeared to be the first to remove the mirror from the mirror assembly in years, if not since production in the factory. But now I'm wondering why? Why would Subaru Japan use two different heating elements? Initial theories suggest it may be because of the difference in climate between the Northern and Southern regions of Japan.

 

 

Additional note: Popping the mirrors off is just as easy it's been described. Orient the mirror itself all the way up. Taking a flat head screwdriver, pop the bottom of the mirror off of the motor assembly. Now orient the mirror itself downward and begin to lift up on it as if you were unhooking it.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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  • 4 weeks later...

I started installing my folding mirrors that I've had for like 2 years. The set I bought isn't heated so I'm swapping my heated glass over. I also bought some 10 pin connectors that use the same pins as oem to swap over the wires easily.

 

Question for those that have done this, do you have tips on getting the two new wires through the door? I hate cutting holes. I'm not sure if I hate cutting holes more than removing the rubber covers and fishing wires through though, lol.

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I started installing my folding mirrors that I've had for like 2 years. The set I bought isn't heated so I'm swapping my heated glass over. I also bought some 10 pin connectors that use the same pins as oem to swap over the wires easily.

 

Question for those that have done this, do you have tips on getting the two new wires through the door? I hate cutting holes. I'm not sure if I hate cutting holes more than removing the rubber covers and fishing wires through though, lol.

 

I'm pretty sure I used an old school coat hanger to fish through, tape the wires and pull it back.

 

It still wasn't fun... have to be careful not to poke or tear anything.

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I'm pretty sure I used an old school coat hanger to fish through, tape the wires and pull it back.

 

It still wasn't fun... have to be careful not to poke or tear anything.

Thanks. That was my plan (with just steel fence wire). I didn't know if people had some new fancy way that's easy. Maybe I'll spray some wd40 to help things move easier.
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