Basic Rebuild aka Stupid Question Containment Thread

This will absolutely be drawn out over many months. I look at it as giving myself plenty of time to research and save up for the bigger purchases. Eventually, this will be a tear down of the current engine and a scratch(ish) build of a new engine.

 

Original questions here:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stage-3-build-plan-comments-criticism-welcome-218804.html <- Lol not really stage 3. So dumb.

 

 

Not much has changed in the way of goals, though I think this time around I’ll be sticking to what most would call a WRX stage 2 build.

- Stock EJ257

- Stock D25 heads

- JMP OEM style VF52

- Some free uppipe I was given

- Some sort of downpipe – I’ll be honest CNT catless is top of the list. $210 new and I can’t find many terrible reviews…

- Spec 2 clutch

- New this, new that on wet parts

- Gates standard timing set

- Moroso Oil Pickup

- Later style STi oil pan and windage tray

Most everything else will be reused.

 

The goal time frame for the engine swap is still to build up an engine on the side (from here on referred to as “Oliver”). March 19, 2016 will be the start date to begin EJ255 +200k mile engine removal from the car (from here on referred to as “Ru”), with a goal of having Oliver up and running in the car by April 3, 2016. March 19-27 will be vacation time, the following week my wife will not need her car due to Spring Break, so Ru can take a further week of from daily driving duties. I’m hoping 15 days should be enough for an engine swap.

 

Speaking of daily driving duties, that’s still the number 1 goal for the car. I don’t care what power numbers I hit, so long as it’s reliable and doesn’t break my bank. The only recreational driving I do with this is the occasional mountain run.

 

I’ve talked to a few e-tuners who will inevitably get recommended by the usual suspects. Currently, I have a Tactrix cable for that purpose.

 

Since I’m still in parts acquisition mode, I’ll use this thread for questions I have as they come up. They may (will probably) be stupid.

 

I’ll also try to update with fun pics, but again, since I’m only buying parts now, and basic ones at that, pics will be boring.

 

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140517_105857_zps6b2c7a03.jpg

 

 

 

Let the good times (stupid questions) roll!

I recommend going with a Spec 2+ clutch. My Spec 2 lasted 50,000 miles. The 2+ is a little less user friendly. It has a very slight chatter but not as much as the stock OEM one did years ago. I notice it when its hot and humid sometimes. But 99% ot the time it works great. Nice light pedal pressure.

 

Nice looking wagon BTW.

Thanks for the recommendation. I was actually basing the 2 off of your review. I figured while some of the parts for the overall recipe will be similar to yours, I would end up with a little less power. (Things like sticking with stock TMIC for now).

 

I'll update the shopping list.

 

I've been watching classifieds for a used lwcp, though lately they've been coming up dry. Has anyone heard of VMS Racing? They have what looks like a decent piece for quite a bit less than the other go-to options. http://www.vms-racing.com/productsinfo.php?CateID=67&ID=571

 

Brand new finding them for $80 shipped, they pop up on NASIOC every once and a while for less obviously. I'll probably wait for one with a known name, but this looked interesting for a moment.

Sub'd. How's your current motor at over 200k doing?

 

Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk

Rolled over 197k last week. Doing well enough I guess. Compression earlier this year was in the 119-130 range. Enough that I don't want to throw a new timing belt on and go to stage 2 for the next 100k without a preventative rebuild.

 

Still floor it a few times a week/month, can get mid 20s mpg. Stock map, banjo filters as far as I know. Thought maybe it would cause need to rebuild sooner lol.

Remember to PM "Underdog" when you need parts. He's a great source for info and parts. Also use www.AZPinstalls.com, these guy's know these cars inside out and what works and doesn't.

 

Depend on them to keep you car happy.

Thanks.

 

First question: What to coat the machined heads in? Right now they are sitting nice and clean in the garage on a wood table and 2x4s doubled wrapped in grocery bags, and I'm realizing they should probably have some sort of protective lubricant. I'm pretty sure not to use WD40, and I've read that motor oil alone can cause issues over time as well.

 

My timeline for installation is pretty set; at the absolute earliest, the heads won't see oil pressure for 186 days as of today.

 

I've been looking at picking up some Amsoil Heavy Duty metal protector.

 

Second question: Is there something I can use that I won't have to wipe down for assembly? i.e. A substance that will protect the polished surfaces for 6 months, and dissolve nicely into the oil upon start up?

 

Third question: Planning on using conventional Castrol 5w30 and Redline break in fluid. Yay or nay? My last build needed a ton of ZDDP for start up, I'd have to look up what I used for its first start. I don't think I've seen any concerns for Subarus in dire need of it.

 

I'll try to limit to three questions per post.

Spent the last few days trying to get a spare laptop from work up and running for logging/flashing when the new engine is in. Before I got it, it was given a super clean wipe. I'm not a trained IT person at all, and getting it to a useable state was not fun. Figuring out all the required software and how to get it all working was slightly less than intuitive for me as well.

 

Same for the tuning programs, but once I saw I could get rpm on the screen I knew I was there. Setup is a tactrix 2.0 and Windows 7.

 

Today I'll work on getting the mini sd card formatted to be able to log without needing the laptop in the car.

Redline break in additive and cheap walmart 5w30 dino oil is what I am using for my break in. I'm going to warm the engine up to temp, dump the oil. Refill with same walmart dino oil and Redline, and hard break in the motor, dump the oil at 500 miles or so.

 

I used Redline assembly lube. There are two types. I used the thin and thick types. Subaru FSM calls for engine oil as assembly lube FYI. But dumping the oil after warm up will get rid of most of the assembly lube.

 

The heads are aluminum so don't worry about them sitting around. I just coated the valves with engine oil and used the redline assembly lube for the buckets and cams. Scrub the shit out of them with engine brushes and simple green and blow compressed air through all the oil galleys. If you want, remove the galley plugs and clean them out. Set the valve lash with the heads torqued to the block. The clearances will tighten up. In my experience as much as .03!!! If you are worried about the valve train sitting around pull out the cams, springs, valves, retainers, etc. and coat in oil and place in bags. I can't see oil being a problem. After you install the motor they will be sitting in oil anyway.

 

I installed the moroso oil pickup and STi baffle/pan/dipstick as well. The moroso pickup is very nice IMO. Killer B would have been nice, but moroso was cheaper and beefy. I sanded the welds a bit and the screen to knock off any slag but it probably wasn't needed.

 

You're gonna need a 02 wideband (AEM uego is a good choice) of course, and the serial to usb converter to log AFRs. And you'll need a db9 cable to solder to the wideband harness.

 

Hopefully that free uppipe is good quality and has a flat flange. Grimmspeed gaskets will help with sealing, although I just used OEM.

Good info there.

 

You could email my machine shop and ask them for ideas or guidance too. Eastwoods Auto Machine in Somersville CT check out there web site. Tell Mike or Mark Eastwood Byron sent you.

I feel bad about taking up their time when it won't profit them. Time is money - helping on some random phone call doesn't pay the bills, and I usually get nervous and start with too much back story. After I've finished telling them about why I didn't like the E.T. remake, I immediately get the sense I've come across as some blithering idiot that has no place changing a flat tire. And I live hundreds of miles away and unfortunately won't be giving them any business.

 

I did ask the tuner I plan to use about the wideband and he said wideband would be helpful, but not necessary. Right now the plan is stock fueling, so I may add the AEM setup later if power goals change.

 

Pretty stoked to get an Invidia downpipe shipped for $137. Delivery gave me a good distraction when the power was out Saturday morning. As far as used pieces left to purchase, I've not got much left.

 

I paid off the car last month, so I'm directing the usual car payment to parts. The household budget for Christmas presents occurs in November, so since there's a little extra cash floating around, I'm thinking of adding an aftermarket intercooler, instead of bullet proofing my 11 year old stocker. Thinking Avo or PW, whichever shows up in the classifieds at the right time for the right dollar amount.

Last night I spent some time putting some structure to my parts list in terms of order of purchases and timing. I'm getting excited now, next month the short block will be getting ordered.

I bought a spare set of avcs gears to clean and use. I got the company 23 torx bit, but it seems slightly smaller than the bolts, and I'm just starting to strip out the "bigger" bolts. I almost think someone tried to rebuild these at one point and went way over the torque values.

 

At this point I'll order the gear wrench to keep the gear from spinning in my hands, though I know the effort I was putting in will definitely cause side to side rotation. I really didn't expect 180 inch pounds to be that difficult to break...

Thinking of how I'll be monitoring engine vitals for the first few months. I like the idea of using the tactrix and BtSsm app, but at the moment that has no oil pressure capabilities.

 

I've got a few ideas:

1 air vent pod - oil pressure, and windshield phone mount directly above the gauge pod to run BtSsm app for most everything

2 gauges in the cubby - oil pressure and wideband

2 cubby and 1 air vent pod - oil pressure on the air vent and wideband and boost/vacuum in the cubby

2 cubby and 2 air vent pod (from 3d printing thread) - Oil pressure and temp in the air vent and wideband and boost/vac in the cubby

 

I like the idea that I can remove the phone and windshield mount for a clean stock look (pro for phone app). I also like the idea of not having to fiddle with stuff every time I have the smallest desire to glance at some info (pro for gauges). Thoughts?

following..

So after a small amount of conversation with heiche, I can use tgv deletes to open up the possibility of getting oil pressure on the app. Total cost to get that up and running would be right in line with getting a single high end, reliable oil pressure gauge installed in the cubby. And then I have tgv deletes on top of that. I'll probably try to get the app and setup running this month, just so I know it works come March.

 

On the hunt for a vf52...

 

Ordered a set of the JDM tgv deletes. Mad tite yo. mad. tite. Off to find some illest stickers, or some other stanced pun weirdness.

Adapter cord for Taxtrix to phone should arrive today, as well as the windshield phone mount. Then I'll download the BtSsm app to get that figured out.

 

Also, found a good deal on a low mileage vf52. It shouldn't need a rebuild for a while, which will save some funds. Waiting for it to be shipped now.

 

Short block to be ordered in 8 days...I need to figure out what bolts to use on the stand. I've seen a few posts mention using the transmission to engine bolts, but those are remaining on the car for now. It's important to have the transmission and engine held together while I continue to drive for the next few months.

 

Edit: 10x1.25 is the thread I need looks like.

 

Using the forum's resources (JMP parts thread) I got to this link: https://www.belmetric.com/jis-small-wrench-fine-m10x125-flange-bolts-c-2_1047_69.html?zenid=3jh0go1ljton99gishi2rid8a7

 

Now to determine length...

When you pull the engine from the car...guess what...you'll have 4 bolts that are pretty long.

 

See what I used in my click here link. I wonder Ii I still used the Honda tranny bolts and washers. If I remember I'll check my engine stand...wait, its in the basement, I think all the bolts are in the shed with the tools. I'll try and check when I get home.

Thanks. I knew the transmission/engine bolts could work, but I'm not actually pulling the engine until March. So I'll have the new short block on the stand for a few months while I'm still driving the car around.

 

Going to check parts diagrams to see if specs are given.

 

Cord and mount arrived, downloaded app and got it working. It wouldn't connect at first, and on my way back inside the house I realized that my phone was seeing the micro sd card that was in the tactrix dongle as a storage device, and wasn't able to "see" the ECU. Pulled out the sd card and it worked perfectly.

 

6 knock events driving down the block:eek:. IAM @ .875. Not sure if there's stuff rattling around or the engine is that bad off now. I'll know soon enough.

 

Edit: My go-to parts websites don't list any specific info on the bolts. I may wait until I've got the sb and the stand in the same place at the same time.

Most hardware stores will have the bolts you need.

Turbo showed up this week.

 

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151029_180214_zpsdcyumtpw.jpg

 

Will be ordering the short block this week.

Do you plan to bolt the turbo to the up pipe and put studs in the outlet flange to the tmic ?

Nuts and bolts for turbo to up. Right now the plan is to use the grimmspeed TMIC - studs or bolts?

 

I've also seen some recommendations for a Mr Gasket generic water pump(thermostat?) gasket for turbo to IC. Is that overkill with the GS?

Short block on the way from Heuberger. Found out the 257 has superseded the 255, and if you try to order the 255, you get redirected to the 257 p/n - 10103AC050.

Quick q - I was told by Heuberger to open the package before signing for it. Is FedEx cool with this? I could easily see some power hungry delivery driver saying I could only open the package if I signed for it.