What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Yeah.. pretty sure I used anti-seize liberally.. just disappointed these bearings didn't last another 150k kms.. what brand should I go with this time around?

There is a thread about front bearings somewhere. I always post this:

Use BCA (NTN) WE60548 or SKF BR930474. The Timken bearings are starting to lose quality. My last set of rears didn't last long at all. I've since switched to BCA which has been much better. The quality between the housings is night and day.

 

On topic:

 

Today I started my new header/uppipe swap. My oem catless uppipe heatshields have been rattling terribly. I got a great deal locally on a new Cobb uppipe and I've had my new Inferno Fabrications 4-1 EL header waiting to install to replace my AP racing EL header. Took about an hour to remove both. Tomorrow I'll install.

 

I'd return the wheel bearing and get another timken. I got one several years ago and it failed within a short time, they sent me a new one no questions and I sent it back. I paid someone to do it the second time.

So I put in new Timken rear wheel bearings for both sides in March.. and last week, under hard cornering the left side started giving me the grinding sounds that was the oh-so-familiar grinding from my stock bearings at 150k kms.. the Timken lasted maybe 6k kms?

 

That was a shitty job and I don't look forward to having to do it again.

 

The Moogs I installed in the wagons rears years ago are still great. Left rear was done Mar 31 2012 at 152,600 miles, right rear at Sept 15 2012 at 159,190 miles.

 

As said you should call Timken and talk with them.

Edited October 10, 2020 by Max Capacity

Ditto on Max capacity. No probs with Moog

 

On topic:

Question. I might get a deal on STI flex strut tower brace. Any opinions on that compared to rigid strut brace?

Ditto on Max capacity. No probs with Moog

 

On topic:

Question. I might get a deal on STI flex strut tower brace. Any opinions on that compared to rigid strut brace?

 

seems like an oxymoron? Either the strut mounts move under hard cornering or they don't.

seems like an oxymoron? Either the strut mounts move under hard cornering or they don't.

Glad I'm not the only one on that thought process.. never heard of a flexible chassis mount..

 

Scotty

"What is the STI Flexible Tower Bar?

STI believes that it is important to improve road-holding abilities of wheels in order to allow the driver to control the car much like an extension of their own body. The Flexible Tower Bar is an STI original product which has been developed to achieve such a goal. Unlike a conventional rigid bar, the Flexible Tower Bar is split and joined with pillow ball joints in the center to be longitudinally mobile while helping laterally stiffen the body of the car.

Different from a rigid bar which is designed just to increase rigidity of the body of a car, the concept behind this bar is to constantly enhance traction of the wheels by strongly holding in a transverse direction at the same time as moderately handling the impact from the ground, in order to realize a ‘flexible yet elegant driving feel’.

As a result, responsiveness at the time of steering improves without compromising comfort, which allows the driver to actually feel that the car can turn as intended, and when they want to go straight, it provides a stable drive without too much impact from uneven road surfaces. As described, this product will further deepen your pleasure of driving."

 

https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/feature/flexibletowerbar.html

 

I kinda get it, but not really at the same time...

So I put in new Timken rear wheel bearings for both sides in March.. and last week, under hard cornering the left side started giving me the grinding sounds that was the oh-so-familiar grinding from my stock bearings at 150k kms.. the Timken lasted maybe 6k kms?

 

That was a shitty job and I don't look forward to having to do it again.

 

Have you replaced the chassis ground wires under the engine ? There is a theory, if those grounds are bad the ground path is through the hubs. Don't know if its true, but I heard that on Chrysler products.

"What is the STI Flexible Tower Bar?

STI believes that it is important to improve road-holding abilities of wheels in order to allow the driver to control the car much like an extension of their own body. The Flexible Tower Bar is an STI original product which has been developed to achieve such a goal. Unlike a conventional rigid bar, the Flexible Tower Bar is split and joined with pillow ball joints in the center to be longitudinally mobile while helping laterally stiffen the body of the car.

Different from a rigid bar which is designed just to increase rigidity of the body of a car, the concept behind this bar is to constantly enhance traction of the wheels by strongly holding in a transverse direction at the same time as moderately handling the impact from the ground, in order to realize a ‘flexible yet elegant driving feel’.

As a result, responsiveness at the time of steering improves without compromising comfort, which allows the driver to actually feel that the car can turn as intended, and when they want to go straight, it provides a stable drive without too much impact from uneven road surfaces. As described, this product will further deepen your pleasure of driving."

 

https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/feature/flexibletowerbar.html

 

I kinda get it, but not really at the same time...

 

 

Basically saying that it helps with lateral forces during cornering but isn't stiff enough to transfer vibration from one side to the other on rough roads. Either way, it seems like a bad compromise between rigid strut bar and no strubar at all.

If a strut bar is too stiff it's possible that there can be an overall loss of grip, though, right? What do you think is the proper compromise?

"What is the STI Flexible Tower Bar?

STI believes that it is important to improve road-holding abilities of wheels in order to allow the driver to control the car much like an extension of their own body. The Flexible Tower Bar is an STI original product which has been developed to achieve such a goal. Unlike a conventional rigid bar, the Flexible Tower Bar is split and joined with pillow ball joints in the center to be longitudinally mobile while helping laterally stiffen the body of the car.

Different from a rigid bar which is designed just to increase rigidity of the body of a car, the concept behind this bar is to constantly enhance traction of the wheels by strongly holding in a transverse direction at the same time as moderately handling the impact from the ground, in order to realize a ‘flexible yet elegant driving feel’.

As a result, responsiveness at the time of steering improves without compromising comfort, which allows the driver to actually feel that the car can turn as intended, and when they want to go straight, it provides a stable drive without too much impact from uneven road surfaces. As described, this product will further deepen your pleasure of driving."

 

https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/feature/flexibletowerbar.html

 

I kinda get it, but not really at the same time...

 

Thx. I also kind of understand when I visualize a hard cornering in my head but hard to grasp. Anyway, when I got there (a japanese importer shop in Montreal, Quebec) after a 20 min drive it was for an STI v10 so it was a no go. But after a while he found an STI Genome rigid strut bar for my Legacy and fit like a glove. I could not know the difference between fleixible and rigid but this rigid one is day and night between not having one! Go with rigid is what I say. I also asked him for parts for S402 or other jdm stuff since I’m looking for jdm radio console and battery cover. However, with Covid their visas are on hiatus so business is slow for now but I’ll check with one of the eight other importers in that area for jdm goodies. Saw a nice set of STI Brembo complete brake kit but at $1500 cdn I’ll wait a bit but it was tempting as hell!

Speaking of Brembos, should be fine to pass inspection Tues and it'll be road legal again

Finally got it inspected yesterday (1 year and 5 months since expiry ), and did some driving and logging. Also got most of my new in-dash tablet setup for it, though I've still got some bugs to work out with the start/stop scripts, and it still doesn't want to seem to reliably log via BtSsm, but on quick check my laptop shows no issues or intermittent connections, etc.

 

Today, I tightened the pins on the OBD port, but doesn't seem like that did anything for the tablet logging, although it certainly makes the OpenPort sit much tighter into the socket.

 

Oh, the fun part about today. I copied my old boost target and wastegate maps over to my current tune (which was running at wastegate pressure since the new motor). It's amazing how quickly an extra 8psi of boost really jogs one's memory of why these cars are just so dang lovable

Thx. I also kind of understand when I visualize a hard cornering in my head but hard to grasp. Anyway, when I got there (a japanese importer shop in Montreal, Quebec) after a 20 min drive it was for an STI v10 so it was a no go. But after a while he found an STI Genome rigid strut bar for my Legacy and fit like a glove. I could not know the difference between fleixible and rigid but this rigid one is day and night between not having one! Go with rigid is what I say. I also asked him for parts for S402 or other jdm stuff since I’m looking for jdm radio console and battery cover. However, with Covid their visas are on hiatus so business is slow for now but I’ll check with one of the eight other importers in that area for jdm goodies. Saw a nice set of STI Brembo complete brake kit but at $1500 cdn I’ll wait a bit but it was tempting as hell!

 

 

People have reported that the flexible strut bar on an STi helps the car feel more solid and less tinny compared to a rigid bar. They say that when they switched from a rigid bar, to the STi strut bar damper, that it made the car have more of a solid, German car character. That's an impression focusing on ride quality. But it is notable that STi uses them on their 24 hrs of Nurburgring cars. But of course, I don't have anything on my Legacy platform, and my WRX has a rigid bar.

flexible strut bar can be felt? uh huh, sure. If it could, your car would flex when you jack up one corner.

 

Keep in mind, the compliance in your 16 yo bushings and suspension components is going to be more flexible than a flexible strut bar. If you are not on super stiff race tires, you'll not even have the remotest chance of feeling the difference.

 

I bought the super blingy titanium strut bar. But it didn't make any difference. But everyone else could tell when I opened the hood.

 

ymmv. not an engineer. money makes everything better

Replaced the rear diff carrier support. The old original bushings were in rough shape. I want to say I'm getting slightly firmer and quicker shifts but it could be placebo

flexible strut bar can be felt? uh huh, sure. If it could, your car would flex when you jack up one corner.

 

Keep in mind, the compliance in your 16 yo bushings and suspension components is going to be more flexible than a flexible strut bar. If you are not on super stiff race tires, you'll not even have the remotest chance of feeling the difference.

 

I bought the super blingy titanium strut bar. But it didn't make any difference. But everyone else could tell when I opened the hood.

 

ymmv. not an engineer. money makes everything better

 

I do feel the difference in cornering. Mind you, I have Megan racing coilovers, prothane steering rack and control arm bushings, strongflex fsb bushings (although still stock fsb), brand new Indy 500 tires, and said STI Genome strut bar. The response is quicker, more direct, less roll,less slop if I can use that term. It is noticable and I don’t feel more of the bumps or nvh as some speak of in regards to steering feel. But I would like to look at the steering lockdown from Perrin just to tighten up the feel a little more. Endlinks and all tie-rods and ball joints are nice and tight.

 

On another note, how do you add your build under your comments as some members have?

It's signature block in your profile.

It's signature block in your profile.

 

Uh I know this is not the thread for this but I clicked on everything in my User cp and cannot for the life of me find signature block. Unless you have to be a donating member. Thx

 

Update, just saw on donation/subscription page you can add signature if you donate. Will do shortly!

Edited October 12, 2020 by luckybullitt
Update

I do feel the difference in cornering. Mind you, I have Megan racing coilovers, prothane steering rack and control arm bushings, strongflex fsb bushings (although still stock fsb), brand new Indy 500 tires, and said STI Genome strut bar. The response is quicker, more direct, less roll,less slop if I can use that term. It is noticable and I don’t feel more of the bumps or nvh as some speak of in regards to steering feel. But I would like to look at the steering lockdown from Perrin just to tighten up the feel a little more. Endlinks and all tie-rods and ball joints are nice and tight.

 

In my limited experience teaching sport driving for the last decade, Ive learned drivers equate improved handling to their dollar spend. On any given day, I could drive my lifted mini-truck down the slalom course faster than just about any other vehicle, usually with the high dollar mods owner in the passenger seat screaming about rolling over.

 

Sorry, its bling. Get a lapping app, find a suitable loop that challenges you, pull your flexible bar off, drive the loop until your times stop changing, now put on your flexible bar, drive the loop again. You should do this on a track because your times don't stop dropping until your tires develop a consistent screech all the way through the turn. Usually you have a "trip through the tulips" to find the adhesion limit of your current mods.

 

Caveat: even with covid's relaxed enforcement policy, you're going to get a ticket or an "assume the position" discussion if you do this all in one day. ymmv.

 

You're modding your car, good for you. Car mods don't instantly make you drive like Senna.

 

You want to improve your steering feel, buy the sti solid link. Then buy the sti steering linkage (underdog's solution). Then replace all your bushings/bars with whiteline's full catalog. Then goto a race car shop and ask them for a corner balance. Then buy better tires, lighter wheels, better brake pads, new wheel bearings, a new center diff, a 6mt. The "I can feel the difference" response to new parts is a downward spiral that usually ends with "partout". You could skip that and buy my race wagon.

 

/rant

In my limited experience teaching sport driving for the last decade, Ive learned drivers equate improved handling to their dollar spend. On any given day, I could drive my lifted mini-truck down the slalom course faster than just about any other vehicle, usually with the high dollar mods owner in the passenger seat screaming about rolling over.

 

Sorry, its bling. Get a lapping app, find a suitable loop that challenges you, pull your flexible bar off, drive the loop until your times stop changing, now put on your flexible bar, drive the loop again. You should do this on a track because your times don't stop dropping until your tires develop a consistent screech all the way through the turn. Usually you have a "trip through the tulips" to find the adhesion limit of your current mods.

 

Caveat: even with covid's relaxed enforcement policy, you're going to get a ticket or an "assume the position" discussion if you do this all in one day. ymmv.

 

You're modding your car, good for you. Car mods don't instantly make you drive like Senna.

 

You want to improve your steering feel, buy the sti solid link. Then buy the sti steering linkage (underdog's solution). Then replace all your bushings/bars with whiteline's full catalog. Then goto a race car shop and ask them for a corner balance. Then buy better tires, lighter wheels, better brake pads, new wheel bearings, a new center diff, a 6mt. The "I can feel the difference" response to new parts is a downward spiral that usually ends with "partout". You could skip that and buy my race wagon.

 

/rant

 

Cool, thanks!!

First four paragraphs I’ll take with a grain of salt. Just sayin’ I felt a difference is all! From no bar to rigid, whatever the aggresiveness of turning/cornering for ME. AND I got a heck of a deal on it for a JDM. No I can’t open my brake fluid reservoir anymore, lol.

End of story!

 

So...I don’t know if you’re dissing me since you quoted me or used it as a general example, or you just lost track and ranted. Either way, respect and thank you for the steering mod parts list.

Edited October 13, 2020 by luckybullitt

Cool, thanks!!

First four paragraphs I’ll take with a grain of salt. Just sayin’ I felt a difference is all! From no bar to rigid, whatever the aggresiveness of turning/cornering for ME. AND I got a heck of a deal on it for a JDM. No I can’t open my brake fluid reservoir anymore, lol.

End of story!

 

So...I don’t know if you’re dissing me since you quoted me or used it as a general example, or you just lost track and ranted. Either way, respect and thank you for the steering mod parts list.

 

Yer welcome.

Did not do this today but on friday last week, my car has been slowly getting louder and had a friend toss it up on the lift. Found a few fun things, one of the previous owners replaced the stock exhaust with a 3inch from the cat all the way to the mufflers, bolted the stock mufflers on and tossed in a resonator in the mid pipe. Found the resonator was rotting out revealing the suby sound. Unfortunately, my yearly inspection was due and I knew I was not going to pass so I took it up to an exhaust shop my buddy recommended since he didn't have piping to weld in the shop (he works in a Lexus shop), at the exhaust shop, they quickly welded in another 3" piece after cutting out the resonator. In and out in under an hour as a walk-in with 2 cars in front of me. Got the exhaust work done, inspection sticker slapped on and a full tank of gas for under $180. Productive day, though now I am missing the rumble but on the plus side this moves my thinking of buying a full catback kit to just an axel back kit. I just have to do my youtube research and see if the new noise amount is passable yearly. Might just need to keep the stock exhause on stand-by if I dont want to chance it

Happy Amazon Prime day

Shell Brotella is $17.58 get in on that deal fellas!

Have you replaced the chassis ground wires under the engine ? There is a theory, if those grounds are bad the ground path is through the hubs. Don't know if its true, but I heard that on Chrysler products.

 

Nope.. I didn't even know that was a thing. I'll have a look..