Picked up 05 LGT Limited, need some advice on modding.

 

 

 

I've had a Ford Escort ZX2 since 2000. Well, I guess I still have one (8 if you want too get technical) and have been modding them for years. I had the green one in the driveway into the 13's and pulled cars with it. I'm not used to having choices when it comes to buying mods. You either had one or two companies too choose from or you built it yourself. So, I've been reading threads and looking at mods and I'm OVERWHELMED by the choices I have. I'm looking for a little direction so I don't end up buying something you are know is crap or known to fail and/or damage the car. BTW, this car had the short-block replaced (I bet you can guess why) at 60,000 miles, it has 113,000 on it now.

 

I've been looking at other sites, but most recently Import Image Racing, as they seem too have a decent collection in one place. I'm looking for good prices, but a retailer that backs their product is more important too me than saving a few bucks. I'm worried about this IHI failing so I know I want too replace it, might as well upgrade the turbo while I'm at it, aiming for 350 WHP on pump gas. Here is what I've got so far:

 

Clutch ACT 6-puck sprung hub. I've got one of these on the (former) turbo ZX2. Even with it wore down too the rivets, it holds. I was still pulling cars with it, you'll have a hard time convincing me too pick a different brand. My only concern is the statement on the product page about reduced spline life. I don't mind the chatter, I'm used too it, but I haven't had spline problems on the Escort, are there issues with the splines on these that you have seen?

http://www.importimageracing.com/act-heavy-duty-6-puck-sprung-clutch-kit-wrx-2006-2014-legacy-gt-2005-2007.html

 

This thing, I don't know what it is, I have an idea what it does, should I get it?

Monoloc collar: http://www.importimageracing.com/act-monoloc-collar-subaru-mitsubishi-mazda-saab.html

 

Flywheel. I've had a Fidanza on my Escort for years. I'm on the fence with them, open to suggestions. One thing is for sure, I do not want to keep a dual mass flywheel. Either an iron or aluminum flywheel is going in with the new clutch. This is what I've found:

http://www.importimageracing.com/act-street-lightweight-flywheel-subaru-legacy-gt-2005-2009.html

 

Downpipe. There are a ton of options. I know I want stainless, I know I want too keep the EGT (I see no reason too do otherwise) and I'm sure 3" is enough to reach the power goal I'm after.

 

Exhaust. Borla, always Borla, stainless steel, mandrel bends. I've seen some 2.5" but I'm not certain if that would be okay for 350 whp. I know on the ZX2 that would be too small. The one linked below doesn't mention if it is stainless. At that price, I'm guessing no.

http://www.importimageracing.com/borla-catback-exhaust-subaru-legacy-gt-2005-2009.html

 

 

Midpipe. I hear the STi midpipe (uppipe) is fine. Though it is unclear if this is a stainless unit. I want stainless, this is a daily driven Indiana car. I've also seen some of them have flex sections, doesn't seem necessary, but I'm looking for opinions on that.

 

Turbo. From what I can gather, BNR is the way too go. Feedback on spool time and engine speeds is welcome. I think it was the 20g that met my power goals and I believe it was priced around $750. If there is a ball-bearing option that would be wonderful, reputable dealer links welcome here.

 

Intake. A lot of options here but probably needs to be related to the the next mod....

 

Intercooler. I've seen the Grimmspeed TMIC starting at $850. Really, starting at? For that price I would rather go full monty with a FMIC. IIR had two options here, one was pricey and the other was reasonable, with even the cheap one getting great reviews (link below) but again I really know nothing firsthand about these manufacturers so feedback is welcome. I also didn't see anything in those two kits for pipes under 3". That seems excessive, I would think 2.5" would do just fine. I've seen 350 whp 2.0 engines running 2" before the IC and 2.5" after. I would think the lower charge pipe volume would (and velocity) would more than make up for any loss in flow. I also want too keep the fog lights as I plan to make them the DRL's so I can install HID's.

http://www.importimageracing.com/fast-motorsports-front-mount-intercooler-for-2005-2009-subaru-legacy-gt.html

 

Mounts. I've seen the Perrin engine mount (just those two mounts) for $370. HAHA! That seems excessive. I would rather weld plates too the stock mounts then pay that much for a small block of aluminum with 75a stuffed into it. I'm guessing Energy Suspension makes a master kit, I'll look that up later unless someone wants too do my (occasionally) lazy butt a favor. I don't want my teeth too rattle so inserts are fine with me.

 

Fueling. I have no idea what size injectors I'll need or what brand works best for you guys. I'll have to beg for knowledge on this one. I also don't know if the stock fuel rail is up too task. I do know the fuel pump will not handle that much power and I've had good luck with Walbro. Any reason not too stick with them? What LPH would I need for that power level? Is the stock wiring up too the task?

 

Mass-air-flow sensor. What does this thing max out at?

 

Tuning. From what I've found, Cobb has done a lot of mod combination research and tuning and seems too be my best bet for off-the-shelf tuning. I can always get a dialed-in dyno tune later.

 

Any miscellaneous things too worry about like PCV system, oil separator, axles, center diff, front diff, etc.? I suppose I'll have too do something about the bypass valve (I think keeping it recirculated is going too work best for driveability) and I'm not certain the stock turbo control valve is going too work out. I also need too know if the stock intake manifold gaskets will hold. I'm sure there has too be a performance replacement for that.

 

I'm not stuck on IIR and I'm not against buying used parts, so long as they aren't moving parts.

Don't spend any money until your sure the engine is fine. Drive the car for a few month's to make sure its fine.

All your questions are answered in the post in the different forums.

 

Slow down, these things can turn into a money pit over night.

 

You have a big list there, read and you'll find most of the answers plus you'll learn a lot about these cars.

 

You'll want to make sure the black o-rings between the intake and TGV's have been replaced with the larger orange ones, you can look and see the orange tab sticking out.

 

FWIW my 09 Spec B has a GS tmic, its so good I just ordered one for my 05 wagon.

The engine feels strong, no noise it shouldn't make, no coolant loss, no oil loss. The short-block was done at the dealer so updated parts were used. I'm aware of the infamous 2.5 head gasket issue as I was researching a 2.5 swap into the 97 Legacy L I had. I know they can be a money pit, I can see that when searching for mods, modding any car (except a Civic) is an expensive habit. I've been reading, it is the only reason I know about these companies and the weakness of the IHI turbo and that oil screen problem. I'm already planning an upgraded oil feed kit as well and have found one too purchase. I also know I'll be doing the front map light mod (not sure why Subaru didn't do this) and the tail light mod because this thing is hard too see from the back. There is so much information out there and so much of it can be (and I'm sure it is) bad info. Between trying too get this done before winter hits and researching law (looking though Indiana Code) to find a way around getting taken off the fall ballot for local office, I just don't have the hours too spend reading through misinformation. No matter how many threads I read, I cannot know what brands are worth the price and what brands are not. I'm very well versed in the Escort world and even I still see information about mods that most of us know are no good but someone has filled a website with positive reviews. I have no way too know how to sift through that this early in the game. If this was Amazon, it would be easier, but this isn't Amazon. I'm not familiar with the acronym "TGV", you'll have to help me on that one. I'm aware the GS tmic is a great bolt-on, but it is still prone too heat soak in that location and starting at $850 seems steep, I haven't looked too see what options they could possibly add and how much that cost. I'm dealing with 95* days along with 90+ humidity here in central Indiana so heat-soak is an issue. I'm also not keen on having water going down into the engine bay. I can imagine the damage salt spray will cause getting in there.

 

I've spent so much time in front of this screen over the past week that just thinking about turning the monitor on gives me a headache.

 

I forgot too add to that list about the Borla headers. If the stock headers will support 350 whp, then I see no reason too get them. They are pretty, but I'm more of a function over form type.

Stock headers will fine.

 

TGV = tumble generating valves, they are between the intake manifold and the head.

 

There is a delete for them, but I kept mine.

 

350whp in these cars is a lot, what tranny do you have ?

 

heat soak is over rated, when the car is moving, it not an issue. These are not race cars, its a DD, IMO plan for 320-330whp, all dyno's read different.

 

Talk with a Tuner before you start, fine a Great one. It's all in the tune. I have over 56,000 miles at 21psi on my stock ej257 on stock fueling.

 

My Invidia catless up pipe and Down pipes fit great, I have two of these cars. that's why I have two DP's.

 

You'll need to verify that at least that one banjo filter is removed, my wagon has both removed, but I'm still running the stock oil feed, it fine.

 

Where do you live ?

 

The wheel bearing/hubs are one of the things that you'll want to replace as they make noise, listen for bearing noise going around high speed curves like on a flyover when changing highways.

 

At the top of this forum is a sticky by, JmP6889928, read that. lots of great info there.

 

He's also our go to guy for turbo rebuilds.

 

miss info, before you buy anything ask us here. We'll help you save money.

 

I buy most of my parts from "Underdog" you can PM for anything you need. If you on the east coast, http://www.AZPinstalls.com is great also, contact them, west coast, "m sprank" at http://www.infamousperformance.net both those guy's have real brick and mortar shops.

I'd save up "in case" and enjoy stock for a little bit. Get an oil analysis as well just to make sure you are in the clear. What upgraded turbo oil line did you come across by chance?

 

Only issue with water going through the hood is AEM intake w/o heat shield wets the filter and maf in car wash and heavy downpour giving maf voltage cels. Salt water I found out every bolt after years of salt and heat cycle cause you to become a swearing drunk who throws tools every now and then. If I took a shot every time a bolt broke on the 1st turbo install, my engine would have went way sooner than it did.

 

Tune is gonna be important and not sure if I skipped over it after you talked about stainless and flex section up pipes. You want to ditch the stock one as the cat can also take out the turbo. Also inspect the inlet to the turbo for tears and cracks. I tore mine on the 1st turbo install as it was brittle. I now have an 05 specific avo in place of it.

You don't need a 6 puck for 350whp.

Good call on the single mass flywheel.

 

Downpipe is just a metal tube, they're all the same unless you go with an insane (twin scroll) turbo setup. Get the cheapest one you can.

 

Exhaust, there are a few nicer options and a few cheaper options than Borla. If you have an affinity for that company go ahead though. You won't see any hp gain from a catback, just noise

 

An up pipe goes from header to turbo, a midpipe goes from the downpipe to the cstback. Definitely upgrade the UP. Midpipe/catbacks offer almost no improvement in these cars.

 

BNR is a great option for a bolt on turbo, a 20g hybrid should put you around 350.

 

Intake, totally unnecessary waste of money unless you like whoosh noise

 

TMIC, there are many cheaper options, quality used units go for less than 500. An fmic is not always an upgrade, especially at your power goals.

 

Mounts, are not that expensive, look at group n parts.

Tuning, do it right the first time. Don't monkey around with an off the shelf tune. Cobb tuners are expensive, you should look into Tactrix cables so you can load maps yourself from your laptop. $150 vs $450. And most important, above anyone else' advice listen to your tuner

Stock headers will fine.

 

TGV = tumble generating valves, they are between the intake manifold and the head.

 

There is a delete for them, but I kept mine.

 

350whp in these cars is a lot, what tranny do you have ?

 

heat soak is over rated, when the car is moving, it not an issue. These are not race cars, its a DD, IMO plan for 320-330whp, all dyno's read different.

 

Talk with a Tuner before you start, fine a Great one. It's all in the tune. I have over 56,000 miles at 21psi on my stock ej257 on stock fueling.

 

My Invidia catless up pipe and Down pipes fit great, I have two of these cars. that's why I have two DP's.

 

You'll need to verify that at least that one banjo filter is removed, my wagon has both removed, but I'm still running the stock oil feed, it fine.

 

Where do you live ?

 

The wheel bearing/hubs are one of the things that you'll want to replace as they make noise, listen for bearing noise going around high speed curves like on a flyover when changing highways.

 

At the top of this forum is a sticky by, JmP6889928, read that. lots of great info there.

 

He's also our go to guy for turbo rebuilds.

 

miss info, before you buy anything ask us here. We'll help you save money.

 

I buy most of my parts from "Underdog" you can PM for anything you need. If you on the east coast, http://www.AZPinstalls.com is great also, contact them, west coast, "m sprank" at http://www.infamousperformance.net both those guy's have real brick and mortar shops.

 

 

I looked up TGV, that is... interesting. I can see the advantages and can't think of a good reason (unless you really have to make insane power and need too remove the restriction) too delete them.

I really just want mid 13's, I suppose 300 whp will do just fine. 5MT

I'll look into removing the filter screens when I do the clutch. I'll have to dig through a mass of texts too find that line kit I intend too order. If removing the screens is enough, then I may not bother ordering them unless the stock lines look as though they need replaced.

I live in Indiana. On the hottest and most humid days, my turbo ZX2 hated moving from stop lights. Heat soak is an issue here for about two months a year and then there is the salt on the roads that sprays into the air that will get into the hood scoop.

I'm guessing an off-the-shelf tune won't do here. I'll have to look into the other tuning options, Cobb just seemed too have put a lot of research into their tunes.

I'm hearing a rapid (vehicle speed related) clicking on decel. Clutch in, clutch out, brakes on/off, doesn't matter. If I'm decelerating I can hear it. Probably no one else would notice but I've broken five differentials in my ZX2 (before I put the LSD in) and that is the sound some of them made before they failed, my ears are tuned too it. I was worried about the whine the car made until I drove another LGT manual that made the same noise. My 97 Legacy L wagon didn't make that noise but it was an auto.

I've read a few 'stickies', probably some or all of that one, I'll check through it when I have more time

 

 

 

 

I'd save up "in case" and enjoy stock for a little bit. Get an oil analysis as well just to make sure you are in the clear. What upgraded turbo oil line did you come across by chance?

 

I have plenty of spare vehicles so if this one breaks, I won't be walking. Do you guys have a 'go-to' company for oil analysis or just use any 'google search' company that is local?

 

 

 

 

 

You don't need a 6 puck for 350whp.

Good call on the single mass flywheel.

 

Downpipe is just a metal tube, they're all the same unless you go with an insane (twin scroll) turbo setup. Get the cheapest one you can.

 

Exhaust, there are a few nicer options and a few cheaper options than Borla. If you have an affinity for that company go ahead though. You won't see any hp gain from a catback, just noise

 

An up pipe goes from header to turbo, a midpipe goes from the downpipe to the cstback. Definitely upgrade the UP. Midpipe/catbacks offer almost no improvement in these cars.

 

BNR is a great option for a bolt on turbo, a 20g hybrid should put you around 350.

 

Intake, totally unnecessary waste of money unless you like whoosh noise

 

TMIC, there are many cheaper options, quality used units go for less than 500. An fmic is not always an upgrade, especially at your power goals.

 

Mounts, are not that expensive, look at group n parts.

Tuning, do it right the first time. Don't monkey around with an off the shelf tune. Cobb tuners are expensive, you should look into Tactrix cables so you can load maps yourself from your laptop. $150 vs $450. And most important, above anyone else' advice listen to your tuner

 

I plan to launch this thing at the drag strip, I'm not sure a street clutch will take the abuse. I've driven on a 6-puck for years, it isn't a big deal too me about the chatter. I would rather have something I know won't break then trade off some comfort for something that may take two drag launches before it gives up. I've worn the ACT 6-puck in my ZX2 too the rivets and it still holds up too launches.

I do have an affinity for Borla. I've heard a lot of four-cylinder exhausts and Borla has always sounded best too me. At some point the stock exhaust will become restrictive, I'm just wondering if the 2.5" Borla exhaust will be enough for 300 whp. It is pushing it on the ZX2 at that power level.

I LOVE and MISS the whoosh noise so an intake is completely necessary.

From what I've gathered, the stock TMIC will leak boost at the power level I'm aiming for, as well as the stock bypass valve will leak. I'm also wary of keeping a direct route into my engine bay during the winter.

I've been browsing the Whiteline website, sure are pricey but I intend to have this car for 15 years so if I can do this once, I'll be fine paying the extra for a part that won't fail.

I guess I need too start looking for a tuner in Indianapolis or nearby. I hate doing that, the waiver they make you sign makes me wary, like the waiver that chiropractors makes you sign. The more I find wrong with this car the more I think I may have to wait until next year too do the turbo and supporting upgrades. I want too do the up-pipe this year along with an intake and getting dyno-tuned for that and then going back next year is going too be pricey. If anyone knows a great tuner in Indy, I'm all ears.

 

I found while I was putting my Centric and Stoptech brakes on today that the rear bushings in the front LCA's are bad and the two front struts leak. I wanted too drop the car an inch and try too keep as much stock ride quality as I can so I'm open too suggestions on springs. I'm sure I'll go with KYB struts, they seem to hold up well. I would think a 1" drop would be okay and won't affect the geometry enough too need camber bolts. I'm not sure if I should bother with the caster LCA bushings either. They sound like a good upgrade but I'm lost when it comes too suspension.

 

I don't mind the height of the stock shifter but the Cobb SS seems reasonably priced and I wanted to upgrade all the shifter bushings anyway. I'll be keeping the stock knob, I like it.

 

I need too start searching through the used parts section...

I read through the sticky, found good info in there for oil analysis. Also, found a link too a tuner in Indiana, has anyone else used Corbin Johnson besides the author of that thread?

 

I forgot too mention, I found a seeping leak in the radiator. I could spend $110 on a stock replacement or $240 on a Mishimoto. Unless you think the stocker would be fine with 300 whp, I'll pick up the Mishimoto. It seems to be a drop-in replacement and I won't have too worry so much about it failing. I do get tired of these plastic tank radiators leaking. It seems too happen to me a lot.

I have a Mishimoto in my wagon, you have to be careful fitting the top hose, it very close to the fan blade. It holds a lot more coolant also.

 

My wagon feels like its a low 13 or high 12 second car. You don't need lots of HP in these cars to get there. I have had a high 12 second as my DD years ago, the wagon feels a lot like it. When my son drove it, he also said it feels like a high 12 second car. He was the driver of our 9 second Civic.

 

I have good luck with Spec Clutches, the 2+ is a good choice. I talked with the guy's at Spec. We also had a Drag Racing buddy who still works there.

 

When the tranny is out for the clutch, install Moore Performance Blast Plates. I love the way the tranny shifts with them, it never fights me going into 3rd at any power level.

 

All other shifts are clean too.

 

I still have the stock intake and can hear the whoosh noise you talk about. Remove the silencer below the air filter. The DP helps the sound too. Do the up pipe when you do the DP.

 

I also bolt the turbo to the up pipe. see picture in my click here link. It's much easier to line up the turbo inlet, which can get cut trying to line up the "new" oil return hose and studs at the same time. Leave the bolts loose until you have the tmic tighten on the TB and turbo outlet flange. It will give more flexibility when installing them.

Use blackstone for your oil analysis. They are the best in my opinion. Also look at Bren Tuning for your tune. Unless you plan on putting it on a dyno, his etunes are second to none and my car has ran really good for over 50k miles now on his tune

The rear Lower Control Arm bushings pretty commonly degrade/tear. I still need to upgrade/replace the worn ones in my '06.

 

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it is recommended to do the TSK3 snout kit. Since you're already planning on upgrading the clutch it won't add much labor or cost.

 

Definitely replace the uppipe since on the '05 it is catted. While it is off you can check on the health of the turbo.

 

Since the exhaust runs right next to the passenger side front cv joint, keep an eye on it for a torn cv boot. It will be the first to go.

 

Also since you're in a salt state, check that the recall for brake line corrosion has been taken care of.

 

That is most of the info I've gleaned from reading on this forum, since I'm pretty new to the LGT myself. Good luck

Found some group N mounts on Amazon, I'll be ordering them. Someone asked about the oil line kit, I couldn't find the one I originally looked at, but I found this one: http://www.importimageracing.com/drt-components-turbo-oil-feed-avcs-line-subaru-wrx-06-14-sti-04-16-legacy-gt-05-09-forester-xt-04-08.html while browsing. I don't know that this will eliminate the oil screens, I haven't gotten that far yet.

 

I've decided on BC coilovers, can't beat that warranty and rebuild cost and the reviews are great for them. I need to replace the blown out front struts anyway.

 

I've got a $2000 cart on Amazon right now, ACT streetlite flywheel and street clutch, whiteline LCA (front and rear with 0.5 caster) bushings, Invidia uppipe with thermal blanket, Centric SS brake lines, group N engine/transmission mounts, Torque Solutions pitch stop, and Whiteline roll center kit. Then there is the cart I'm working on at IIR with the BC coilovers and some shifter bushings since I want too firm up the feel but don't care for a short shifter. I'm going to get that RacerX FMIC kit, probably ceramic coat it as well. Not sure what I'm doing about a BOV, but I'll be recirculating it too keep driveability. That is a great deal for a FMIC! You'll probably groan, but I've got nearly $1000 in the Cobb store with the tuner and SF intake with box. It seems Cobb is too the Subaru world what SCT is too Ford, everyone tunes it.

 

I still haven't decided on a downpipe, that will probably wait until later anyway. I've got $4000 in parts already. Now I'm reading about people killing these engines near 300 whp and it worries me.

 

Has anyone figured out why these things eat oil so much?

 

Wondering if I should have gotten an Evo 8 instead...

Good call on the snout kit, Slusbe.

I keep cars a long time. The ZX2 sitting in my driveway is 15 years old and has 270,000 miles on it. I would drive it coast to coast right now. I take care of my vehicles. If I do this right, this car will be fun too drive and reliable. Any upgraded parts I put in will be as good as or better than OEM, my suspension will be rebuildable, and the car will be fun/safe too drive.

 

I have been debating if I should mod this one or just spend around $12,000 on the ZX2 (not the one in my driveway, I have a project car sitting at the shop) and run well into the 11's with it. The only issue is with the cage in it, it will be hard to get my son in and out of it. I've already got a lot of parts for it, but being FWD, it won't be as fun too drive or as safe in a crash.

 

So, what is a good car too drop that kind of cash on? Should I buy a brand new Mustang and then have to wait for the warranty too run out to mod it? Maybe new Corvette that won't have traction in the snow? Then I also have to deal with a big car payment that I don't have too deal with now. You remind me of someone on the Team ZX2 forum, do you have any relation in Missouri?

If you're eating oil, something isn't right. 40k since my rebuild and I don't burn a drop with a 5k OCI.

 

I'd listen to Max, I did when I bought my car 4 years ago and have been nothing but pleased with the results.

 

Go for a simple stage 2 build if you want a dd, you can always add on later.

 

I don't know the details of the streetlite flywheel but most here recommend against running a light weight flywheel. Many go with a single mass setup though.

 

A DP and a tune will do wonders. Start there. You seem like a good candidate for an e-tune. They're cost effective and easy to change as you continue to mod. Don't skip on the tune. I wouldn't even drive the car without a proper tune for the parts you'll install.

It isn't eating oil, just several threads on here report it like it is normal too use a quart every 3000 miles.

 

Most of the performance parts I'm looking are replacing worn OEM parts. I have two blown struts, bad bushings in both LCA, the uppipe has a cat, I don't want salt spray getting into the engine bay so the TMIC has too go, the clutch slips on mildly spirited launches, even when the road is wet, the radiator has a hairline crack, and this thing just rolls around too much for me. Maybe I'm too used to the ZX2 with the urethane bushings and Eibachs with tires as wide as factory LGT tires. I don't want too spend 60% of the cost to use OEM parts when I can get upgraded parts for about 40% more and not have too worry about it. I'm not adverse to a steel flywheel but even the cheapest one I found was $10 more than the ACT and it was an Ebay seller, not sure I trust that. There is no mention if it is the single mass or not, the part number matches, though.

 

The downpipe will wait until next year, so will the turbo upgrade, probably a VF52. Since the only engine mods it is getting this year would be intake, FMIC, and uppipe, an off-the-shelf tune should work fine. I'm not too worried about making it fast right now. But it is ten years old and the previous owner didn't replace anything that didn't break so it needs refreshed.

Try tossing a PCV at it while you are taking off the tmic. You going to grab a 2.5i hood to delete the scoop cleanly? OEM tires are meh and lasted about 3 oil changes for me.

I'm not sure there's too many ots tunes that are going to support a fmic on an otherwise stock car.

 

I'd really recommend just sticking with the tmic. Not that much spray is coming through the hood scoop, especially when the scoop is directly on the tmic.

I've had the luxury of working on a LGT that had been in Indiana for several years, it wasn't easy getting things apart and I used a lot of MAPP gas on that car.

 

I will keep an eye out for a N/A hood, but for the interim, I'll block off the scoop with plastic.

 

I don't understand why a FMIC would add tuning issues. I had an email tune on the Escort and used a TMIC at first, then put on a FMIC, then changed the pipe configuration, and never had tune issues with it. Are these cars just picky turds? The MAF sees "X" amount of air it adds "X" amount of fuel, what am I missing?

 

PCV will be done with all the other work it is getting. I'm glad you mentioned it, I likely would have overlooked it.

The FMIC is a lot of piping to push air through vs the "Short ram intercooler" sitting on top of the motor a mere 8 or so inches from the turbo outlet. I have a factory front mount on my dd but the core is barely half and inch deep.

So is the issue with FMIC the increase in lag? I've been curious about what the downsides were with FMIC since the factory always uses top mount. It seems dumb to use top mount if the benefits were purely stylistic.

 

By the way ZX2Fast, another thing to consider upgrading the is the crank pulley. Apparently a problem is starting to pop up with cars over 100k miles where the crank pulley is delaminating - the outer plastic/rubber is breaking off of the inner metal.

 

Simply replacing the pulley will fix the problem. I've heard there is a possibility that the ECU won't like a combination of lightweight crank pulley and lightweight flywheel though. Something about the engine revving too fast. Something to consider / research.

 

For what its worth, I absolutely agree with your method of upgrading worn out parts. It is annoying when the replacement parts are a significant portion of the car's value though.

The FMIC is more air volume too move, I don't know how picky the ECU's are, but I see no reason why the ECU maintaining the set boost level should cause an issue. I intend to get it tuned now, anyway, I just got a package deal including a VF52 turbo.

 

You will see some more lag with the FMIC, it is negligible, once the turbo gets moving it doesn't matter.

 

I'll keep an eye on that crank pulley. I'm sure I'll get a good look at it while putting the Mishimoto radiator in. I have read about using a "too light" flywheel and then the crank pulley causing issues with idle. Maybe Subaru should have consulted Ford on the idle tuning. A Fidanza flywheel on the ZX2 is literally half the weight of the OEM unit and I had a lightweight crank pulley on it for a short time. No idle issues, just took the pulley off because the back would get worn though by the lower timing gear/belt and cause the belt too walk off. Not a big deal since the engines are non-interference, but it could leave you stranded.

 

I'm thinking now I may just shoot for about 250 whp in the LGT (so I can keep stock fueling) and start working on my ZX2 project car again.

 

I still need too pick a catted downpipe and catback exhaust.

Alright, I admit that I skimmed most of this thread, rather than actually read it, so apologies if I missed something already stated or discussed.

 

Fyi ... a compression test and/or leakdown test would not be amiss before you throw a ton of parts at this motor. Even if is seems like it's running smoothly. It would be nice to be sure.

 

Ignore the 6 puck haters. I just had the ACT 6 puck put in my LGT wagon. I am thrilled so far. The old CM FX350 that came out chattered like a mofo. The new ACT 6-puck has yet to chatter on me. Granted, I've only gone about 3-400 miles on it so far, so it may wear in a little bit and start to chatter then, as that's what my FX350 did to me, but so far, I've had nothing but positive experience with the ACT 6 puck. Way better than the segmented FX350. I think someone mentioned TSK3 above also. This is a must-do kit.

 

As far as lightweight flywheel or lightweight crankpulley, I think you've realized that people have had CEL problems with either one of those, which has to do with insufficient inertial resistance on the drivetrain. Neither is recommended for the 2.5L EJ255/257. If you absolutely must do one, choose one or the other, not both. If do end up without a lightweight flywheel, all you're gonna need is a stock WRX (06) single mass flywheel. Goes great with the ACT 6 puck.

 

Front mount is more lag and just a lot more complexity and opportunities for boost leaks. You also have to cut your front bumper beam for an aftermarket one on the LGT, which affects its crash-worthiness. Many people run front mounts, but there's a lot of good reasons why people stick with the top mounts. Fyi ... the stock plastic engine cover is designed to mate up to the hood scoop so most of the airflow really only flows over the intercooler and over the transmission housing and out the bottom. If you stay top mount, Grimmspeed is the one to get these days, which may or may not have a shroud to marry the scoop to the intercooler. My Process West came with one, but I'm not sure about the Grimmspeed.

 

That intake will also be a challenge to tune for. You may have trouble on a OTS tune with the intake. Even the protuners struggle sometimes to deal with it. YMMV. By the way, the sti stock uppipe is not stainless. It's very similar to the LGT uppipe, heatshield included. The only difference is the cat inside on the LGT one. I believe there are several aftermarket ups for very reasonable money. I'm running the Cobb solid up, which I believe is stainless and somewhere around $110. There ya go.

 

Note for the headgasket issues ... that issue is common on the naturally aspirated boxer motors. It is much less of an issue on the GTs because Subaru used better headgaskets on the turbo motors. Not that it can't happen, the horizontal motor design does have a bit of an inherent flaw where the head mating surface is essentially vertical to the ground. On almost all the head gasket failures for the boxer, the failure occurs on the bottom side nearer to the ground. But like I said, this is not a common problem on the GTs. Just the 2.5i.

 

VF52 is a great turbo choice. The BNRs are good too. If you really want a ball bearing monster ... Blouch Dominator1.5xtr. As far as being picky turds to tune. Yeah a little bit. Any good tuner can deal with most of the issues, but they really do require a good tune to be happy. If you change anything about the airflow at all, a tune is recommended. The tune on upgraded boost really rides the knock edge and you have to be careful not to monkey with it too much without a tune. By the way, I think you can get where you wanna go with the 2 inch Borla catback. Yes it is more restrictive than the 3" from others, but not so much to keep you under your goals I believe. Note that Bren is great, but he does not do open source etunes. If you want an etune and a Tactrix, go with Cryo. If you do get an AccessPort, I highly recommend Bren. A dyno tune with a great local tuner would still be best though.

 

As far as fueling, you want the DW65C. The Walbro is fine, but requires modding of the pump housing. The DW65C is also good and is a straight drop in. The wiring *should* be good enough. But it has not been for a few people. I believe there's a wiring mod thread here somewhere for that. 850 injectors are enough, but 1000s would be better. If you go to the 1000s, get Injector Dynamics top feed and fuel rails and some tgv deletes for top feed.

 

Fyi ... there's no EGT on the downpipe. The stock uppipe has an EGT. It is there as a warning to protect the uppipe cat from temps that will melt it. If you remove the cat in the up, you don't need the EGT sensor anymore. See resistor mod on here and/or delete it in the tune. The stock downpipe has an O2 sensor (non wideband), which yes, you will want to keep. You may also want to add a wideband afr to the downpipe. The Cobb catted has an extra bung for this. If you really want EGT, the correct place for it is actually in the exhaust header.

 

You gotta make your own choices on AOS. Many arguments go both ways on that one. Stock axles are okay at this power level. It's actually hard to get upgraded ones. And also note that it's easy to get inferior remanned axles. Watch out for those.

 

Good luck! Welcome to LGT.com! Enjoy.

 

Here's what I've got right now. This made 275 hp on a Dynapack (also note the BPV and EBCS for the right ones to get):

Cobb up

Cobb catted down

Borla catback

Process West Top Mount intercooler

Forge BPV

Grimmspeed EBCS

Stage 2 BrenTune

ACT 6 puck (new), WRX SMFW, TSK3

suspension stuff too

 

Here's where I'm going at some point:

Dom1.5xtr

Top Feed TGV delete

ID1000 + rails

DW65C

Grimmspeed Intake

Borla UEL header

Crawford AOS

 

I'm expecting to make 350+awhp on that stage 3 setup when I get there. An equal length header would be even better.