Front Drivers Side Clicking..

I’m getting an obnoxious clicking sound during low speed turns in either left or right directions but primarily turning right.

-new CV Axles

-relatively new Mevotech LCA with the new bushings

-greased sway bar bushings

-sway bar end links are as tight as I can get them (tightened while on jacks and while the suspension is slightly loaded with a jack under wheel.)

I notice that the clicking primarily happens during right turns especially when I’m backing out of my driveway but it happens occasionally to the left as well.

Could a worn top hat or strut cause this issue or clicks at low speed? Trying to shake the car and put weight on the strut does not replicate the clicking sound. I can’t replicate the sound turning the wheel and spinning it.

I’ve been chasing this clunk for months now and it’s only gotten worse. I have a feeling it’s the top mount but I don’t have a wrench offset enough to tighten it with that Allen key in as well.

Sound seems to be coming from top of the strut rather than the bottom. I am leaning toward the top hat not seating properly or the spring.

Update, got a video

What aftermarket changes to the suspension or strut assemblies? Spherical or solid endlinks?

I think I've heard of aftermarket axles clicking. I've come to discover for a couple reasons - OEM rebuilt axles only.

What aftermarket changes to the suspension or strut assemblies? Spherical or solid endlinks?

 

I think I've heard of aftermarket axles clicking. I've come to discover for a couple reasons - OEM rebuilt axles only.

Lowering springs, KYB struts. Mevotech Axles. Cusco Front sway bar.

Solid Kartboy endlinks. Do they need to be greased?

I swapped in the OEM axles to see if it remedied the issue and nothing changed.

I lube my KB solid endlinks f&r probably twice a year just with white silicon spray. I could see spherical endlinks binding, but my KB solid endlinks have been quiet for years and I'm in a much different climate than you.

Is it evident stationary turning the wheel?

Does it translate into the steering wheel or drive-ability, or just audible?

I lube my KB solid endlinks f&r probably twice a year just with white silicon spray. I could see spherical endlinks binding, but my KB solid endlinks have been quiet for years and I'm in a much different climate than you.

 

Is it evident stationary turning the wheel?

 

Does it translate into the steering wheel or drive-ability, or just audible?

I don't think it was the sway bar end links either since I had them disconnected on that side after I lubed the bushings to isolate the endlinks being a problem. Too lazy to remove the whole sway bar for a more conclusive test but I'd say the end links are fine. I'll try to lube them up a bit.

Occasionally evident while stationary when moving the steering wheel back and forth away slightly. But more so when doing the same movements once the car begins moving.

It is just audible, I don't think I can feel the clicks through the steering wheel at all.

Update, was able to get a buddy help me out and turning the wheel while car is stationary. We were able to replicate the sound. It does not only occur when the wheel is turned right but rather shifting from left and back to right in random angles in the steering.

Top hat bushings seem fine, minimal play during steering changes full lock to lock. About the same on each side.

The noise is now confirmed to be around the wheel area. Perhaps the ball joint has worn prematurely in the Mevotech arms? I might just order Whiteline KCA313 to replace the ball joint and tie rod ends and maybe it will remedy it, I was planning on purchasing them anyways but not this soon.

Could an improperly seated spring make this noise? The clicking isn’t constant and it sounds like it needs load from steering input and weight before the click happens when the load finally releases if this makes sense..

If it is the center diff, wouldn’t the noise be present whenever the wheels are spinning?

I appreciate all the help so far but long story short, top hat bearings and endlinks are ruled out.

Wheel bearing. Go slowly in a parking lot with the front wheels at lock. Just go around in a tight circle and have another person on the outside of the car walking along side. If you're by yourself' date=' you can go to a parking lot that has a big concrete wall next to it. If you do the same small circle next to the wall with your windows down, the wall should reflect the sound and you'll be able to hear it. You can also do youtube searches for "front wheel bearing ticking" or something like that, and see if that matches the sound you're hearing.[/quote']

 

I did a search online and it doesnt seem to match the noise I am hearing. Both left side wheel bearings have been replaced with OEM units within 15k miles. Lug nuts are definitely tight and torqued down, same with the axle nut.

Update, got a video recorded under the car

Seems like you've narrowed the list down to only a couple items left..

Ball joints or top hats, maybe tie rods. Might as well keep going until it's all new

My new Legacy has a clicking/clunking sound on acceleration now that I'm apart of your thread.. Sounds like a top hat to me, but thanks a lot.

Seems like you've narrowed the list down to only a couple items left..

 

Ball joints or top hats, maybe tie rods. Might as well keep going until it's all new

 

My new Legacy has a clicking/clunking sound on acceleration now that I'm apart of your thread.. Sounds like a top hat to me, but thanks a lot.

I think I’m gonna order Whiteline’s bumpsteer kit KCA313 which includes a ball joint and tie rod ends. I just really hope I can rule out the strut or top hat since that just adds to the list of parts I need to replace before track days.