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5th Gen Ownership - Official Random Thoughts Thread - V3


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Hey guys... need some help..

 

presently i'm running oem wheels 18x7.5 +55 with a 17MM spacer...

 

I just got my konig oversteer 19x8.5 +45 .. and they don't clear my brembos... they

 

would work with the spacers but the nubs of oem bolts that stick out on 17mm

 

spacers prevent me from putting the wheel on.

 

is there a way to determine, the size spacer/shim I would need?

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hmm - I guess the wheels don't have pockets on the backplate of the hub mating surface to allow for the 17mm spacers to work, yes? And even if they did - adding that 17mm spacer into the mix with a wheel offset of +45 gives you an effective offset of +28 (!)

 

I think your best bet might be to return the +45 wheels and go with 19x8.5 +40s or +35s and skip the spacers.

 

https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=205&aspect=45&diameter=18&wheelwidth=7.5&offset=38&width2=245&aspect2=35&wheel_size=19&wheel_width=8-5&offset2=45

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I earned $2.94. :lol: You've must've bought a lot of ebay stuff! I wish I had known about eBay bucks when I was buying larger ticket items for my suspension.

 

I usually don't get near this much in ebay bucks. I am usually down around where you are.

 

I had bought an used Invidia Q300 exhaust to get me started and I think I got that with an ebay doubling of the bonus bucks. After that, I had made a list of parts which made sense to purchase on ebay and patiently waiting for ebay buck offers which usually are usually for 1 1/2 days. I bought Company23 tools for my timing belt, BPV, Perrin IC hose and GrimmSpeed exhaust adapter for the Invidia to fit my stock downpipe and got them all with 8% ebay buck deals in purchase in February and March.

 

I usually don't plan like that. I happened to do my research in advance, so I was ready to buy once the I got the email ebay buck offers. I already planned as well to use my ebay bucks to buy an AEM dry filter.

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hmm - I guess the wheels don't have pockets on the backplate of the hub mating surface to allow for the 17mm spacers to work, yes? And even if they did - adding that 17mm spacer into the mix with a wheel offset of +45 gives you an effective offset of +28 (!)

 

I think your best bet might be to return the +45 wheels and go with 19x8.5 +40s or +35s and skip the spacers.

 

https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=205&aspect=45&diameter=18&wheelwidth=7.5&offset=38&width2=245&aspect2=35&wheel_size=19&wheel_width=8-5&offset2=45

 

So, when I was hunting for 19's that could clear Brembos, it became evident that there's more to Brembo clearance than just offset. The Advans I have coming in a month or two are +50, for instance. My old TC105Ns that I used to have were 18x8.5 and either +45 or +42 and would clear Brembos. When I asked the wheel dealer I was recently working with (RavSpec) about the Work Emotion CR Kiwami, which comes in +42 or can be custom ordered for lower offsets, I was informed they wouldn't clear the calipers. Spoke thickness and design are something to keep in mind, and there's no "number" to know if a particular set of wheels will clear the calipers or not.

 

I'm not sure Konig has anything in 5x100 that would fit. When I looked, the wheels they have that fit STIs generally didn't have a 5x100 option that works for us. Finding nice 19s for our cars are hard enough, but having wider calipers makes it particularly more difficult.

 

Some manufacturers will point out caliper clearance. Wedssport will indicate if a wheel clears "big brakes" in the descriptions, but their 19" options are extremely limited. Rays tend to have a column in their wheel specs labeled "BIG CALIPER CLEARANCE" and uses a legend which includes Impreza 4 pots and the STI, and several of their 5x100 wheels share an offset with a 5x114 variant. But... these wheels are significantly more expensive than something from Konig.

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I've had this bookmarked forever, never actually done anything with it. This should be a profile template for a front caliper and rotor, so if you were to print it out full size and cut it out, you'd want to stick it right to the hub. Just cut the other side of the line and stick it to the rotor hat, that should cure what ails you.

 

http://www.carid.com/images/brembo/pdf/brembo-1e4.6002a.pdf

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I've had this bookmarked forever, never actually done anything with it. This should be a profile template for a front caliper and rotor, so if you were to print it out full size and cut it out, you'd want to stick it right to the hub. Just cut the other side of the line and stick it to the rotor hat, that should cure what ails you.

 

http://www.carid.com/images/brembo/pdf/brembo-1e4.6002a.pdf

 

 

Thanks, i pulled one from racetechnoligies (brembo)... i'd like to see your link but I get Redirected to viglink shopping and its cut so I can't copy and paste it...

 

could you un hotlink it please?

Edited by SpidermanMTL
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So just a heads up to everyone, if you haven't ever replaced your PCV valve it may be a good idea to do it. My rear main seal went out over the weekend and according to my mechanic if your PCV valve fails it can cause pressure to build to up and seals to fail. Unfortunately in my case it chose to come out of the rear main, but who knows maybe it could have been prevented by replacing a $14 PCV valve. (part # 11810AA090) Edited by 02LGTSNJ
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So just a heads up to everyone, if you haven't ever replaced your PCV valve it may be a good idea to do it. My rear main seal went out over the weekend and according to my mechanic if your PCV valve fails it can cause pressure to build to up and seals to fail. Unfortunately in my case it chose to come out of the rear main, but who knows maybe it could have been prevented by replacing a $14 PCV valve. (part # 11810AA090)

 

Where is the PCV valve located on our engines?

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At my old job, I used to order parts to maintain a fleet for a transportation company, so I use the head mechanic there for everything I need. He lets me buy the parts myself and charges me for his hours. He handled it all for me so I'm not certain, but I can tell you he said he had to remove the intercooler to get it.
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I dont know for sure that the PCV made the rear main start to leak, but as a precaution its cheaper and much easier to replace that than have to drop your trans and get into all that bullshit for the RMS. Im right around 115k and i did take a bit of a road trip about two weeks ago up to New Hampshire, 6-7 hours each way, don't know if the long drive hours contributed to any of it. Just wanted the community to be aware, the RMS is a pretty big repair and if there is anyway to avoid a failure, I would want the community to know.
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Ugh. Insurance called - having to replace my hood now - one little hail hit wont pop back down.... Called the repair shop to walk them thru taking off that Corozon scoop.... The good thing is that they are all mod guys and recognized that its special.

 

I just want my car back. Got to drive it for the first time during spring break after being in the shop for a year getting all the internal stuff done, then to get it taken away again for body work is killing me.

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You better surprise us with a new color!

 

I asked. Prob is that the roof and bumpers (that will not be painted as there was no damage) would need to be done as well to match whatever I went with - which would have been a bit of cost to me @ $1000 (front bumper would require some buffing out all the chips). So its the stock color again. Which is alright...Once I went black, I won't go back! :lol: I can always wrap it later!

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