What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Finally solved my LGT woes...

 

Is that a S6 ?

Is that a S6 ?

‘08 S4 6MT. Only 50k on the clock! Definitely a little smaller inside than the LGT though.

It is the single walled, dual tips that look awful IMO.

 

My dual walled Stromung tips filled the cut-outs and looked fantastic.

Stromung dual walled/resonated tips are amazing.

 

[ATTACH]279229[/ATTACH]

 

 

I'm pretty torn on the Stromung look vs the HKS Silent Hi-Power, I really like them both. But the Stromung wins hands down on the sound, so that's what I'm running.

And they look even better with the 08+ USDM or any of the Rev A-E JDM rear bumpers

Hey trans engines have feelings too you know.

It’s an S4, but yes, it is cisengined.

Is it leaking directly in front of the passenger side rear tire?

I hope that they take care of it without any BS. Others here have went through the pain of doing it themselves after being denied the repair.

08 S4 to solve unreliable car problems? You're just a glutton for punishment.

On paper it checks so many boxes though. Back 8 years ago when I was in the market for a wagon I was 50/50 between an LGT wagon and the S4 Avant. I only went with the LGT based on the deal I got on the car... and then it promptly needed a new short block, which very thankfully was covered under warranty. But it’s been very reliable since then.

Took the car to the shop for a valve cover gasket warranty since it started leaking again. While it was in there I also asked them to install things I didn't want to do myself even though I could.

$860 labor for cam seal replacement, STI Group N motor mount install, oil pan drop to install the Moroso 6qt pan, Killer B windage tray baffle, Moroso pickup tube, and do an oil change as well. Like the valve covers, all labor is warrantied for me for 5k miles or 6 months.

Sounds fair to you guys? Was told I got a discount on the cam seal replacement. I could do all the oil pan stuff but figured I'd rather not make a mess in my garage. I can try to haggle them down but I am good friends with the owners of the shop and I respect their work. For whatever reason their computer said that the LGT's motor mounts take longer to replace than the WRX's that they normally work with. Unsure what he included in the quote, I think he just put it at a ballpark range.

Finally solved my LGT woes...

 

 

 

 

‘08 S4 6MT. Only 50k on the clock! Definitely a little smaller inside than the LGT though.

 

 

Nice score! Join up at audizine.com. You'll be unnecessarily spending more money in no time!

Is it leaking directly in front of the passenger side rear tire?

 

I hope that they take care of it without any BS. Others here have went through the pain of doing it themselves after being denied the repair.

That's exactly where it's coming from - in front of the passenger rear tire.

I'm holding my breathe for the call, but two of my old buddies are techs/enthusiast there, and my brother works with one of the service writers. Said hello to all three of them before leaving.

08 S4 to solve unreliable car problems? You're just a glutton for punishment.

Nice score! Join up at audizine.com. You'll be unnecessarily spending more money in no time!

Took the car to the shop for a valve cover gasket warranty since it started leaking again. While it was in there I also asked them to install things I didn't want to do myself even though I could.

 

$860 labor for cam seal replacement, STI Group N motor mount install, oil pan drop to install the Moroso 6qt pan, Killer B windage tray baffle, Moroso pickup tube, and do an oil change as well. Like the valve covers, all labor is warrantied for me for 5k miles or 6 months.

 

Sounds fair to you guys? Was told I got a discount on the cam seal replacement. I could do all the oil pan stuff but figured I'd rather not make a mess in my garage.

I feel like an oil-pan under the car would be a PITA, but I know it's not that bad of a job. I'd just hate removing all the stuff you need to get to it, especially all the likely rusty stuff involving the headers, especially on my back. A lift would make it trivial, IMO. Motor mounts aren't bad, the trick is to have a swivel/flex head 3/8" ratchet to fit between the subframe and the mounts. I did motor and tranny mounts in about 1hr from start to finish the first time on jack stands.

Cam seal replacement is also not so bad, assuming you have a big breaker bar (I use a breaker bar and my jack handle) and either the cam sprocket removal tools, or a spare T-belt and a couple pairs of vice grips to lock the cams. Also made easier if you have a good-sized socket to go around the camshaft to tap in the seals. I didn't, and just used a small socket and carefully tapped it in around the edges. You'll need to drain coolant from the radiator to remove the top hose and the fans (or just pull the top hose and make a mess like I did the other night ), but otherwise it's pretty straightforward.

If a shop charged me in the $500 range, I'd probably just let them do it because I'm sick of working on my car, otherwise I'd not be able to justify it because I'm a cheap bastard All that said, I don't think the quote you got is unfair, and I can sympathize the shop needing to actually stay afloat and support warranty, etc.

‘08 S4 6MT. Only 50k on the clock! Definitely a little smaller inside than the LGT though.

Good find.

Stromung dual walled/resonated tips are amazing.

 

[ATTACH]279229[/ATTACH]

 

 

I'm pretty torn on the Stromung look vs the HKS Silent Hi-Power, I really like them both. But the Stromung wins hands down on the sound, so that's what I'm running.

Just had the old MagnaFlow knocks put back on the wagon. Exhaust shop used what they needed without having to buy anything new except for the flanges for the 09' midpipe on the wagon.

I could hear the car rumble in the shop bay when he started it but once outside its just a little louder then stock but nice on the highway. The tips stick out a little more then the last time they installed the set up but cut the 05' midpipe at the Y and bent larger pipes to the mufflers.

The mufflers with no inlet pipes are from the Pro Lab Tuning exhaust, the Q300 mufflers are on the Spec B

Here's those mufflers and tips from about 5 years ago.

^ That looks like my Frankenstein setup, only mine don't stick out as far:

My tips are now cut back as far as they could be without having to cut into the angled part of the tips where they attach to the muffler. You can see in the picture of one in the 4th picture, that straight is now gone.

The mufflers are also mounted about 1 inch further back this time also. Over the weekend I'll raise them up a little under the bumper. hose clamps will do that.

Here's those mufflers and tips from about 5 years ago.

 

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Just noticed the tag...I love it!!

Also the old wagon threw the A/C belt. The idler bearing is a bit stiff so the belt started to burn up. It rubbed through the connector to the compressor. I think the connector on the compressor, while rubbed through a little, is still operable. I'll have to do some testing to make sure there was no shorting out but I doubt it. I really don't want to have to replace the whole compressor due to the connector.

I changed my passenger headlamp assembly yesterday and noticed a nice leak in my power steering rack. Given the age and a handful of chicago winters it's time to swap it out with a new one. Any recommendations guys? New oem/refurbished from rock auto or STI rack better? Thanks in advance. I just want to swap new as no downtime to rebuild with new seals etc.

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I changed my passenger headlamp assembly yesterday and noticed a nice leak in my power steering rack. Given the age and a handful of chicago winters it's time to swap it out with a new one. Any recommendations guys? New oem/refurbished from rock auto or STI rack better? Thanks in advance. I just want to swap new as no downtime to rebuild with new seals etc.

 

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To me, that's a no-brainer "might-as-well" upgrade to the '15+ STI rack. Since you have an LGT and not an OBXT, it's minimal extra effort (just need to cut a couple threads off the inner tie rods) for a quicker rack.

On-topic: Drove it to work and back yesterday. As expected, plenty of smoke out tailpipe on startup, and now I'm starting to see burning oil in the exhaust while driving. Just a matter of time. Should be plenty good to get it back to my parents' place for the winter. In the meantime, I've been spending time porting aijiimod (updated version of MerpMod) to my ECU, so I can start helping with development efforts for OpenSource live tuning. Spent a lot of time last night on disassembly of the ROM and seem to have successfully patched my ROM, however I ran into issues trying to get a definitions file for ECUFlash generated for all the MerpMod tables. I figure if I'm not physically wrenching on the car, I can at least get some headway on getting the ECU side setup for things like flexfuel and live tuning for when the new motor is built.