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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Installed the invidia q300 catback today. What a pain in the butt the mufflers were to actually fit inside the bumper and exhaust hangers. My original exhaust sounded like garbage due to the gaskets disintegrating so this is definitely an upgrade

 

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Installed the invidia q300 catback today. What a pain in the butt the mufflers were to actually fit inside the bumper and exhaust hangers. My original exhaust sounded like garbage due to the gaskets disintegrating so this is definitely an upgrade

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

Love my q300, mated with invidia catted downpipe too

08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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Got some small progress on the motor. Reacquainted myself with my garage (:lol:). Got the coolant crossover pipe installed with new o-rings. Pulled the cam sprockets to see that the shop didn't install any cam seals :spin:. Wasn't happy to see that, as I don't have any sockets the correct size to easily tap them in. Made due with using a smaller socket and carefully tapping it in evenly point-by-point along the edges. Got the rear timing covers installed, and the cam sprockets installed and torqued down.

 

Also installed a new water pump (Aisin TKF-008 kit). 3-4 of the 6 bolts seemed like the holes are stripped, probably from PO or previous shop over-torquing the bolts. I stopped tightening before they started spinning free, but I have no idea if they're good enough to hold. I guess I'll find out :spin: Bugs came out and light was disappearing, so I finished the night by installing the set of KSTech air-pump block-off plates.

 

Early tomorrow morning, I plan on making as much progress as I can before my night plans. Timing belt, timing covers, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, turbo, flywheel/clutch. That should be it before I'm ready to drop it back in the car! Hopefully, anyway.

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Yikes on the cam seals. I'd go back to the shop and have a talking with them. My cam seals gave me a lot of problems with leaks on my rebuild-like geyser level. Imagine if you hadn't noticed that?

 

Can you helicoil the aluminum block? I feel like deep down inside if you feel the bolts are getting closer to spinning instead of closer to the factory torque value, they might not be torqued properly.

 

Building up the long block on the stand with all the peripherals was one of my favorite parts of my build. Everything so clean...

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Also installed a new water pump (Aisin TKF-008 kit). 3-4 of the 6 bolts seemed like the holes are stripped, probably from PO or previous shop over-torquing the bolts. I stopped tightening before they started spinning free, but I have no idea if they're good enough to hold. I guess I'll find out :spin: Bugs came out and light was disappearing, so I finished the night by installing the set of KSTech air-pump block-off plates.

 

 

Heli-coil with some thread paste.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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While doing some logging on e85 the boost gauge hose manage to come off the nipple. Double zip tied it, definitely not coming off anytime soon.

 

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and @chefo.soriano

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While doing some logging on e85 the boost gauge hose manage to come off the nipple. Double zip tied it, definitely not coming off anytime soon.

 

 

 

 

Spray some hair spray on the nipple and in the hose end, then stuff the hose on and zip tie it. Not only will it not blow/work off, but the HS will seal it as well.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Yikes on the cam seals. I'd go back to the shop and have a talking with them. My cam seals gave me a lot of problems with leaks on my rebuild-like geyser level. Imagine if you hadn't noticed that?

 

Can you helicoil the aluminum block? I feel like deep down inside if you feel the bolts are getting closer to spinning instead of closer to the factory torque value, they might not be torqued properly.

 

Building up the long block on the stand with all the peripherals was one of my favorite parts of my build. Everything so clean...

 

Heli-coil with some thread paste.

 

Spent probably an hour+ this morning looking for a local shop that has an M6x1.25 helicoil kit to no avail. Even McMaster doesn't stock it. Only online search I could find was for Grainger for a 500pk for $380 :spin:

 

For now, I just re-installed all 6 bolts with Loctite 242 (blue). I think it should be fine, but if it does become a problem, at least it doesn't involve pulling the motor.

 

Got the timing belt done, manifolds installed, turbo installed, and flywheel/clutch installed.

 

A WIP shot after doing the timing belt (which was WAY easier with the Aisin kit, as the Mitsuboshi belt is pre-marked to line up with the crank/cam marks, unlike the Gates belt). Those with experience will know what's wrong with this picture.

http://i.imgur.com/s9R9MzHl.jpg

 

Turns out the Aisin TKF-008 kit doesn't include the small idler (between the tensioner and the left-side head). Had to reuse the one I saved from before. Interestingly enough, all the stock photos of this kit online show it with that small idler, but not the sprocket idler that goes next to the water pump (which my TKF-008 kit came with...). :iam: Besides that, I had a couple other minor hiccups along the way, just from doing stupid things, forgetting one thing needing me to undo work (e.g. forgot one of the brackets that braces the up-pipe to the block, etc.). Just the nature of coming back to a project a long time after it was started.

 

Have to call it a day for now, but it's looking like I'll have the motor back in the car tomorrow! Still gotta torque down the crank bolt, waiting till it's in the car so I can use the drivetrain to keep the crank from spinning. Don't foresee any roadblocks, so I'm expecting smooth sailing tomorrow. But we all know how it never works that way :lol:

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Haven't done much to either car lately just continuing to enjoy driving them.

 

Will say with the great weather we're having here in CT, the wagon feels like it has 20 more whp lately.

 

The tires are getting a little old, but they seem to break loose when I go to WOT in 1st gear and break loose again on the shift into 2nd.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Will say with the great weather we're having here in CT, the wagon feels like it has 20 more whp lately..

 

68F in the UpState and here on the Gulf Coast it's 96F in the shade with RF of 103F

 

 

The tires are getting a little old, but they seem to break loose when I go to WOT in 1st gear and break loose again on the shift into 2nd.

 

 

 

You say that like it's a bad thing. :)

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Today I removed my rear zero sports sway bar to put the stock one back on. This will suck for a few weeks until I get it on the spec b. It's sad putting this car back to stock to put it up for sale. I put well over 100,000 kms on it and it's been an absolutely amazing experience.

I hope the spec b will do the same once I get it on the road.

08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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All things considered, reasonably smooth sailing. Some stupid mistakes. Highlights include that I installed the motor mounts backwards, but didn't notice until I already had the motor mated with the transmission. So I reversed them under the car while fighting for space with a hoist and a floor jack. Then once everything was about buttoned up and I was adding coolant, noticed a small leak near the turbo. Turns out I mangled the coolant line running from the RH head to the turbo. Managed to get a pick in there to undo the clamp on the head, and used a spare hose I had sitting.

 

Car fired right up! Took it for a spin and the first WOT pull totally reminded me of what I was missing.

 

Unfortunately that didn't last long. Right around 16psi I was greeted with a loud POP and violent deceleration. Can't say it's the first time I've popped the TB-IC hose with the GS intercooler. Pulled over, finagled it back together, then brought it back home to re-tighten it. Later, decided to take the car out for my trip to my parents' place for dinner. On-ramp to the highway, another spirited pull, and another POP. This time, the clamp was nowhere to be found :lol:.

 

Drove it to work today, need to drop by a hardware store to pick up a new clamp and hopefully do it right this time. Then I can start working on the tune :)

 

Other problems: I replaced the power steering pump inlet o-ring, since I know I've been having PS leaks near the pump. Time will tell if that was the source of the leak, but I suspect not. But even worse, the power steering fluid burning/smoking is still there, and I think it's the rack, judging by the PS fluid on the right-side :spin:. I guess that's an excuse to look into upgrading to the '15+ STi rack, and to figure out the related VDC issues.

Edited by solidxsnake
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3-DB1-BE64-F86-E-416-C-9325-039-E0-E1-FF2-FD.jpg

 

Met up with my friend a few days ago and got some detail shots of the STI genome exhaust. Mates up with a 3inch catless down pipe and 3 inch midpipe, it sounds amazing. I feel that it is throaty and low but not overbearing because it does taper after the midpipe to the stock pipe width of 2.5 or 2.25, whatever it is. One of my favorite things I’ve installed on the car so far.

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Ps fluid burning/smoking would be fluid dripping down to the exhaust from the pump area. Could be continued leak, or just what's left. I had it for maybe a week before the smell completely went away.

 

 

This PS leak/burning has been around for quite a while now, and yeah, definitely a leak near the pump. When I got to putting the motor back in, when I moved the PS pump to the side of the bay, there was a good amount of PS fluid pooled in the crevices of the pump/bracket that spilled out. I'll be keeping an eye on it, hoping the inlet o-ring fixed it, but hopes are low for that.

 

 

I have had those days, glad it is back up and running. I was considering doing the +15 rack what are the issues you speak of due to having VDC?

 

From my reading, the '07+ LGTs with VDC will throw all sorts of issues when swapping to a 15+ STi rack due to the difference in steering ratio to the measured steering angle. I don't remember if a fix was ever found, and if it was, if it was a physical solution (modify the steering angle sensor to output the correct values for the new rack), or a software/ECU solution (i.e. reprogram the new steering ratio into the OEM software to fix the discrepancy).

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I think my random idling issues are due to a faulty TPS. It looks like the throttle body will come out WITHOUT removing the intake manifold. Just have to remove the slave cylinder.

 

Can anyone confirm or dispute this?

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I was going to say yes I have a spare from an 05 OBXT, but according to parts.subaru.com there is some difference between the 2005-06 throttle bodies and the 2007-2010 throttle bodies. Not sure what, but they have different part numbers.
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Tried to find someone to replace my lower control arm bushings if the arm was removed. After finally finding someone who would (two shops said no) I was quoted 200-300 for two arms - i need 4 done. Thats a bit higher then I was expecting and is more then enough to warrant buying a press and the Avo tools - or should I leave it to someone who's done it before? They made it seem like its super difficult - one set of arms is brand new (but is aluminum), one set is 9 years old but rust free. Considering I would be using the correct sized press sockets shouldnt this be a fairly easy job?
05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters.
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