Nameless Downpipe: Official 5th Gen GT Install Thread

I need to stop subscribing to random threads..

I need to stop subscribing to random threads..

 

Eh, this thread started out so promising and full of hope. Now, it's just sad.

So the Stage 2 tune from English/Nameless was only good for 230hp/253tq? That's laughable.

 

Here's the dyno graph from English for comparison. It was 45 degrees at the time. They list 275/325 on a dynojet. But, my car is pulling timing right now and it's in the upper 90's. My DAM is anywhere between .3 and .75 lately.

My DAM is anywhere between .3 and .75 lately.

 

I'd prob soil myself several times if my DAM was there.

 

 

 

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Yeah, that's not good. You did dyno pulls with your DAM in that condition?

^^^I hope not. A dyno pull below 1 is bad. maybe .938, but .3 damn thats low

I don't know what it was at when it was on the dyno as I wasn't in the car. But I've seen it that low in the last 7 days. It's fluctuating up and down all the time right now. The hotter it gets, the more it fluctuates.

 

The guy who dynoed the car is the tuner since the whole point was for him to to generate some data and take a look at things to determine where the car is at. There's no point in dropping 450 bucks for the tuner to simply say "the tune is fine" because that would essentially be 450 dollars spent in order to decide to call COBB.

 

If your DAM has to be 1 to do a pull, how does anyone generate a log then? Doesn't that simply mean the engine is pulling ignition timing to protect itself because other parameters are causing early detonation? I can see how a DAM near or at 0 would be bad, though.

DAM is a multiplier. .3 means you are multiplying the timing in the tables by .3 across the entire rpm range, therefore when timing should be 33 degrees, it's only 10. That's leaving significant power on the table and a sign that something is either seriously wrong with the tune or the car.

 

My GT was tuned in cool weather. The only time my DAM goes down is when I try to accelerate too quickly in 5th or 6th gears from low rpm and it doesn't matter if it's 45 degrees or 100 outside. And it only goes down to .8 or .9 and goes right back up within a mile or two. And very little FBK and FKL.

My GT was tuned in mid-summer in Dallas TX. 9am temps were in the low to mid 90s with temps climbing as they were doing pulls and tweaking. My DAM was at 1.000

I would drive it very gingerly or even change to the last known good map, better safe than sorry.

DAM is a multiplier. .3 means you are multiplying the timing in the tables by .3 across the entire rpm range, therefore when timing should be 33 degrees, it's only 10. That's leaving significant power on the table and a sign that something is either seriously wrong with the tune or the car.

 

My GT was tuned in cool weather. The only time my DAM goes down is when I try to accelerate too quickly in 5th or 6th gears from low rpm and it doesn't matter if it's 45 degrees or 100 outside. And it only goes down to .8 or .9 and goes right back up within a mile or two. And very little FBK and FKL.

 

I believe the DAM multiplier is applied to the knock correction table, so the numerical difference isn't quite a drastic as going from 33deg to 10deg. That being said dropping 4-6 degree at WOT is going to very noticeable.

I don't think doing the dyno runs with DAM below 1 is a big deal. It has dropped because the tune isn't healthy and presumably it has dropped to what the ECU thinks is now safe. IMO resetting the ECU to get it to 1 and then doing some pulls could be a bad idea since all that timing will be added back in. I'd just drive it carefully and avoid WOT until your tune date.

Also, don't worry about the dyno numbers..different dynos, different days, etc. Can't compare. You'll have a baseline now between old and new tunes so that will be somewhat informative.

 

When first getting a stage 1 tune years ago, mine made 290/350 on a mustang dyno. WTF, right? Gains from stock to protune were still inline what what others had though. Stage 2 STIs made roughly the same numbers on this dyno for reference.

What did you have installed for stage 1 tune?

What did you have installed for stage 1 tune?

 

Me? Cat-back, that is all. Tune was "aggressive" at my request. Tuned to 17.5 psi with aggressive timing.

Thinking of a tune but do not want to go louder so thinking of keeping stock exhaust.

How did your engine hold up with an aggressive tune?

I believe the DAM multiplier is applied to the knock correction table, so the numerical difference isn't quite a drastic as going from 33deg to 10deg. That being said dropping 4-6 degree at WOT is going to very noticeable.

 

I know this, there are multiple table values that are added to the baseline timing table and the DAM is a multiplier of those, not the base timing. I was having trouble last night trying to explain the concept, not necessary the facts, must have been tired.

Thinking of a tune but do not want to go louder so thinking of keeping stock exhaust.

How did your engine hold up with an aggressive tune?

 

Please, if you want general tuning and mod advice, please start a thread in the main 5th Gen forum, we'd all be glad to chime in. This thread needs to stay on topic....Nameless DP cluster-fock.

So, the good news is that my car is in a better state now then when I arrived in the morning. DAM is solidly at 1, fine knock learn isn't really a thing anymore, etc.

 

The bad news is that my car can't really build boost. It's maxing out somewhere around 10-11 PSI or so. There's no obvious reason for it that they could find by looking around and ensuring things were clamped, so they're going to try to diagnose things more thoroughly. The car goes back on Tuesday. The tuner talked me through the steps they'll take, and we talked about some potential options depending on some potential things they might find although potential solutions are probably premature right now.

 

So yeah. More tinkering coming up.

...it seems that the AVO cat-back may be hard for me to get my hands on to. Is there any chance the Invidia cat-back Will bolt up to the Nameless downpipe w/their included mid-pipe? Edited August 12, 2017 by Syndicate

...it seems that the AVO cat-back seems like it may be hard for me to get my hands on to. Is there any chance the Invidia cat-back Will bolt up to the Nameless downpipe w/their included mid-pipe?

 

Thats what I used to run. Bolts up fine.

Thats what I used to run. Bolts up fine.

Good. Doing this has been in the back of my mind for a while.

...it seems that the AVO cat-back may be hard for me to get my hands on to. Is there any chance the Invidia cat-back Will bolt up to the Nameless downpipe w/their included mid-pipe?

 

Just an fyi the included pipe with the nameless dp is the intermediate pipe not the mid-pipe. Mid pipe is the pipe that Ys off to the axlebacks.

Thats what I used to run. Bolts up fine.

 

...cool, this sounds like a plan and the Invidia is cheaper as well.

 

Just an fyi the included pipe with the nameless dp is the intermediate pipe not the mid-pipe. Mid pipe is the pipe that Ys off to the axlebacks.

 

...noted, at least it won't be taking up space in my garage now, I was going to ditch it if I was able to get the AVO.

...it seems that the AVO cat-back may be hard for me to get my hands on to. Is there any chance the Invidia cat-back Will bolt up to the Nameless downpipe w/their included mid-pipe?

 

Here is the AVO clone that I have. Mechanic says it lined up perfectly. If it includes a downpipe, note that it is catless.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Racing-Sports-Exhaust-For-2010-2011-2012-2013-Legacy-GT-2-5L-Turbo-charged-/182237226442?epid=1475767109&hash=item2a6e2f65ca:g:khIAAOSwdzVXqizB&vxp=mtr