05wagongt Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 new engine, new turbo....should be here in a week or so, car will be done by xmas....i cant wait!!!!!!!:wub::wub: i already decided to go with amsoil 5w-40 and then after it runs 20-30 mins, change oil and filter, going to stay with amsoil after that...i have read about oil, and everyone has their own opinion, but all say if oil changes are done at 3k intervals, and its always topped off, thats what mattters most... i also have ordered the perrin up-pipe, and found out how to do the wire resistor mod to avoid cel.... i am getting tranny flushed once i get car back, and will keep doing it around 15k intervals.... i only use 93 octane for gas.... is there anything else i need to do so i can keep it running good? come spring, im doing cat-less dp, cat-back exhaust, cobb tuner, and shock/spring combo.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Belts and oil return and coolant hoses ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Why did you need a new engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripemeat Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 to be frank, I'd use conventional oil for break-in since you need to change it out ~3-4 times within 500 miles. but of course everyone has their opinion on this. use 5-30 castrol GTX(or equivalent decent conventional) until the first warmup cycle idling- when the cooling fans cycle on, change, 100 miles, change, 250, change, 500 change now using your good stuff /amsoil. then change at 2k miles, then at your normal intervals. Unless you want to drain amsoil that many times in that short of a period, which would be a waste of money. vary your highway speeds, vary engine loads, you DO want to subject the new motor to some boost to seat the rings, not full throttle though. Stay out of high rpms (greater than 3-4k). This method is also the recommendation of a couple new england tuners and performance shops and has had great outcomes thus far. Some people wouldn't change the oil out that much but- an oil change doesn't take long and it's worth the extra effort if it means a proper break-in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCASEYS Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Thanks Chris I donated to LegacyGT.com which allows me to have this nifty signature. If anything SCASEYS posts ever becomes a sticky i'm gonna light this whole place on fire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Why did you need a new engine? Answered my own question --> http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/drive-my-new-wagon-gt-wagon-today-and-died-highway-197308.html You're lucky! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05wagongt Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Thanks for all the input guys...I appreciate it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOneDoubleN Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm Guy needs to learn how to effing spell and proof read. I stopped reading when I got to: "Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again." I don't care how smart you are, enough of that in a "published" work and you lose credibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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