What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

What's that color? Me likey

VHT Metallic Gold caliper paint. I also used their primer and clear coat. Came out pretty well for my first time. Brembo logo was from eBay.

I finally installed a new to me 2011 sti steering wheel with steering wheel controls and replaced my chinese android headunit with a cheap pioneer. Steering wheel controls are very nice to have.

I also found the male/female connectors for the I85 and I88 harness. I want to buy a male I85 to clean up the ASWC-1 install. Pics later.

Fixed my misfire issue (until it comes back) - it was an ignition coil. It seems that the # 1 and 3 coils can't take the heat because they are right over the uppipe. So when the car heat soaks, it affects the right bank more than the left. I guess it makes sense, same happens for the valve cover gaskets.

About 20K on the Cosmo Racing coils before they start misfiring. Heads up there. I just replaced the one cylinder with one of the stock ones I took off when I switched to the Cosmo coils, and misfire was gone upon first start. Seems pretty conclusive to me.

Not mine, but helped a friend with a problem on his 100k mile LGT. He got a clutch in the car a week ago, and it shortly started making horrific noises and leaking gear oil badly. Got it apart, and found all of the pilot bearing except the outer race missing, and a crack/hole in the trans that led behind the input shaft seal. Evenly spaced, deep, hemispherical indentations in the outer race imply that he pecked the inner race with the trans shaft and cross loaded it when cinching the trans down. Best guess is the vibes from running a chattering 6 puck clutch with the input shaft unsupported caused a fatigue failure in the trans casing. Ball bearing indentations in the flywheel. Never seen this happen. Friend's an experienced wrench, crazy stuff.

 

So I guess, be extra sure you've actually aligned everything right before you start pulling the trans to the motor?

I wonder if there's a better place to put this lesson. May be a sticky at the top of the DIY forum ? Or in the Transmisson forum ?

I wonder if there's a better place to put this lesson. May be a sticky at the top of the DIY forum ? Or in the Transmisson forum ?

Nudge acknowledged . I'll put it in the 5MT failures sticky

Got the original steering rack off the car a couple days ago, and started working on getting the junkyard '16 STi rack on the car. First matter of business was getting a new RH inner tie rod installed, which was much more work than I was expecting. Since I'm lacking useful tools like a bench vice and big wrenches, I ended up renting the inner tie rod tool from AutoZone, mounting the donor '12 STi rack on the car, using the tool to break the inner tie rod, unmounting the donor rack, swapping the tie rod onto the new rack, mounted the new rack, used the tool to torque the tie rod down, then unmounting the rack again to clean, grease, and boot the inner rod joint

Mounted the rack (hopefully) for good after the fact, though I didn't hook up the u-joint since I just pulled the trigger on a solid STi u-joint. Hopefully I don't have to drop the rack a little bit to get the u-joint on.

Ran out of nitrile gloves the other night when I unmounted the stock rack, and doesn't seem that I can get any anywhere at the moment. Definitely not helping my motivation for working on the car

I took my car for a drive after new tires were installed and noticed a bit of imbalance around 60 km/h. I remember one of the wheels not sitting too nicely when I installed them two weeks ago (yes, I am really not driving much at all these days).

I pulled off the wheel and checked the bore and it had some peened out material in the center of the bore surface. Cleaned that off with a polishing stone and tried again. Wheel still won't sit flat on the hub. Pull it off and check the hub only to find that the centering ring has been bashed pretty good with a hammer.

Clean up the bore again and start cleaning up the obvious high spots on the outside of the centering ring on the hub. About 5 rounds of grinding/polishing later and checking using tape to indicate the high spots, the wheel finally sits flat...but only in one position on the hub. Rotate it one lug stud over and its the same story.

I ended up testing it out in the position that sits flat and there are no more vibrations up to about 90 km/h (was really only vibrating around 60 so should be ok faster than 90 as well).

Never having changed a hub, why would somebody need to bash metal on metal to get it into the knuckle? Wouldn't a piece of wood help cushion the blow? Aren't there drifts for this sort of thing? Mind you, I don't have any service record showing that this hub has been replaced, other hubs yes, but not this one. Maybe pulling the axle out?

Put a little more love into the Spec.B this weekend. Added 1/2" saggy butt spacers and replaced all of the anti-roll bar linkages with Kartboy billets. Stance didn't change much with the spacers, but it made a lot of difference in going through dips/driveways.

Before:

After:

After:

I was thinking of doing this, but now I'm wondering if I should go higher than 1/2". It definitely seems to have leveled out the body.

I'd start the typical diagnostics procedure, from lowest to highest hanging fruit. Check for air leaks, stuff rattling, then move on from there. If there were an air leak, I'd expect it to be post turbo based on those trims, assuming you see boost in ranges C and D

I pulled the I/C, which looked fine and I'm going to bulletproof it. Later today I'll check out all the vac lines and see if I can clean the MAF and double check the wiring harness.

Here's the latest lv from btssm, though I noticed IAM is down to 0.313 this morning:

Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm pretty new to looking at these logs: seems like I'm rich at idle and lean up high. Should I be checking out my fuel pressure regulator?

Car is stock aside from a Borla catback.

I took my car for a drive after new tires were installed and noticed a bit of imbalance around 60 km/h. I remember one of the wheels not sitting too nicely when I installed them two weeks ago (yes, I am really not driving much at all these days).

 

I pulled off the wheel and checked the bore and it had some peened out material in the center of the bore surface. Cleaned that off with a polishing stone and tried again. Wheel still won't sit flat on the hub. Pull it off and check the hub only to find that the centering ring has been bashed pretty good with a hammer.

 

Clean up the bore again and start cleaning up the obvious high spots on the outside of the centering ring on the hub. About 5 rounds of grinding/polishing later and checking using tape to indicate the high spots, the wheel finally sits flat...but only in one position on the hub. Rotate it one lug stud over and its the same story.

 

I ended up testing it out in the position that sits flat and there are no more vibrations up to about 90 km/h (was really only vibrating around 60 so should be ok faster than 90 as well).

 

Never having changed a hub, why would somebody need to bash metal on metal to get it into the knuckle? Wouldn't a piece of wood help cushion the blow? Aren't there drifts for this sort of thing? Mind you, I don't have any service record showing that this hub has been replaced, other hubs yes, but not this one. Maybe pulling the axle out?

Yes, a piece of 2X4 comes in handy every now and then. There are DIY's in that forum for replacing the hubs.

Which hub is the issue ?

I started a front wheel bearing 2020 thread the other day about which front hubs work well, in this forum/

New shift and e-brake boot. One of our family friends does custom leather work and I asked if he'd make me some. They've been done for over a year and I finally had the time to do it. I had redline goods stuff but wanted red stitching to match the sti wheel.

I pulled the I/C, which looked fine and I'm going to bulletproof it. Later today I'll check out all the vac lines and see if I can clean the MAF and double check the wiring harness.

 

Here's the latest lv from btssm, though I noticed IAM is down to 0.313 this morning:

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm pretty new to looking at these logs: seems like I'm rich at idle and lean up high. Should I be checking out my fuel pressure regulator?

 

Car is stock aside from a Borla catback.

Yeah you're right, I must have had a brain fart when I looked at your last LV. Do you have a means to log/monitor fuel pressure? If not, it's easy enough to splice in a tee w/ a 1/8" NPT port into the fuel send line to take a look. MAF scaling and front O2 are also potential culprits.

What's your idle MAF reading in BTSSM?

I was thinking of doing this, but now I'm wondering if I should go higher than 1/2". It definitely seems to have leveled out the body.

I agree, it definitely leveled things out. There are 3/4" and 1" sized spacers available as well, but I thought those would be too much for my car. Looking at it now, I probably could have gone with 3/4" and made wheel gaps even.

Tried to install a Grimmspeed cross pipe with OEM manifold elbows and it doesn't fit. The flex joint hits against the oil filter. And I damaged the front O2 sensor removing my old manifold. Am I crazy that the crosspipe doesn't fit? I might be running a filter that's too big, bc their website says it'll fit.

Also, might buy a '14 Forester so I can figure out what to do with my specB. Thinking I'll sell it.

I agree, it definitely leveled things out. There are 3/4" and 1" sized spacers available as well, but I thought those would be too much for my car. Looking at it now, I probably could have gone with 3/4" and made wheel gaps even.

Scotty

Yeah you're right, I must have had a brain fart when I looked at your last LV. Do you have a means to log/monitor fuel pressure? If not, it's easy enough to splice in a tee w/ a 1/8" NPT port into the fuel send line to take a look. MAF scaling and front O2 are also potential culprits.

 

What's your idle MAF reading in BTSSM?

Thanks for the ideas and helping me work through this. Bulletproofed the TMIC yesterday, and visually checked all vac/boost lines. They all seemed secure.

I pulled the MAF and cleaned it, cleaned the contacts, and looked for loose wires. It all seemed ok, but I ordered a replacement MAF anyway. I replaced the O2 sensor to resolve a P0171 (Bank 1 lean) in 2016 to no effect, but will consider it after I get the MAF replaced. I now see that I also replaced the MAF in 2016, and that did resolve my P0171.

I think my MAF idle reading is around 4.0-ish g/s, but let me double check later.

Don't have a way to look at or log fuel pressure, but I suppose that's next.

EDIT: MAF @ idle in btssm is 3.97 to 4.08 g/s.

Tried to install a Grimmspeed cross pipe with OEM manifold elbows and it doesn't fit. The flex joint hits against the oil filter. And I damaged the front O2 sensor removing my old manifold. Am I crazy that the crosspipe doesn't fit? I might be running a filter that's too big, bc their website says it'll fit.

 

Also, might buy a '14 Forester so I can figure out what to do with my specB. Thinking I'll sell it.

What are the benefits of a cross pipe? Not a mod I see many people do, normally they just change the whole manifold.

What is the official diagnosis from the spec b? Burnt valve from a bad injector? The 6 speed from the spec B could have been in your wagon a long time ago by now. You could still part it out, that must be a pretty frustrating situation.

What are the benefits of a cross pipe? Not a mod I see many people do, normally they just change the whole manifold.

 

What is the official diagnosis from the spec b? Burnt valve from a bad injector? The 6 speed from the spec B could have been in your wagon a long time ago by now. You could still part it out, that must be a pretty frustrating situation.

For my wagon I got coated OEM manifold elbows with the GS crosspipe for a sweet deal. The crosspipe is supposed to flow better, but like stock with heat and density. Thought it'd be a nice addition, but I think my oil filter is a size up and that's why it won't fit. I did discover that my no-name eBay header isn't actually leaking and it was just the manifold gaskets. New gaskets and O2 sensor installed, and all's good there.

The heads need to come off my specB one way or another, we're not sure what's up since it compression tested well. I own it outright, but another $2k into it isn't something I want to mess with at all. I only have about $6.5k into it in total so I'd be approaching what it's actually worth. I was hoping to make a couple bucks on it, but that's not happening anymore. Definitely frustrating.

Don't think I'll want to part it out, and however much it'd be to swap the 6mt probably isn't worth it on a car that's worth only $6k. And I have a backup 5mt sitting in my garage too, been there 6 years.

One LGT and a wagon at that is what I need to focus on, and getting a low maintenance daily driver.

Don't think I'll want to part it out, and however much it'd be to swap the 6mt probably isn't worth it on a car that's worth only $6k. And I have a backup 5mt sitting in my garage too, been there 6 years.

In a perfect world I'd like to swap the motor out of my 5EAT and into your Spec B - gains alone on that would be nice. Also guessing it'd be cheaper than doing a full 6MT swap into my 5EAT. Still can't believe the stock auto trans is holding the power of this built motor @ 122k miles.

I'm all for creative ideas, just not loving the thought of parting out even though it's likely the best way to get money out of it. Anyone have interest feel free to PM.

I'd be happy to keep the shortblock for my wagon if possible, but it might have value to a buyer.

With some help I'd be willing to pull the motor, learning how to do that would be worth some kickback too.

Clipped a deer in broad daylight on the TSP near the Taghkanic State Park... she was in the median and I was in the right hand lane - slowing down - and just inside the commitment point she turned and ran right in front of me... I got all over the brakes, but too late. She bounced off the leading edge of the hood ( she didn't break my new headlight - yeah! ) and I was lucky the crinkle in the hood was the extent of it... she ran off; she'll have a good bruise in the morning I'm sure.

Realizing my good fortune, I bought a MegaMillion ticket when I stopped shortly after for gas.