What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

These were mine when I replaced them. The misfires were so bad it felt like I was skipping teeth on bicycle gears, was afraid I wouldn't make it to my destination.

 

 

 

They are so bad I was thinking they looked Canadian, NY is the lower east Ontario!

Did some more pulling apart of the parts car today, more stuff sold too! I had a bit of a war from the previous owner being an idiot. Most wheel studs were cross threaded, I snapped 4 wheel studs and one was so bad I had to drill it out and break the stud off. No damage to the rim, but it took forever to do! I threw on the wheels that I picked up for $60 and cleaned up the 18" Enkei's that came on the car, and I'll probably keep them they have decent winters. I gave them a solid cleaning and they are starting to look pretty good.

 

I finally got around to cleaning the wheels on the spec b properly, they haven't been properly cleaned since I got the car and I'm sure the previous owner didn't touch them in years.

Tysparks81 gave me a lip from his old legacy so I cleaned that up and refinished it the other week and I installed it today. the car is finally looking more complete!

Wellp, 5 speed #2 has been getting a bit noisy. Picked the car up today and went through the gears, and it sounds like it has a bunch of rocks in it. I'm going to keep running it until something interesting happens (for science), but time to look for a replacement.

 

Told myself I'd do the 5 speed thing at most 3 times before I decided to just bite the bullet on a 6 speed...

I don't get "bling" too often for my wagon, but I did here...

 

[ATTACH]284228[/ATTACH]

 

The rare (for me) brand new item.

 

A Beatrush rear strut brace, one of the few that can actually fit below the carpet. So pretty, but will be hidden

 

Only took >2 months to get here from Japan.

 

 

Interested in your feedback on the difference it makes. Our strut tower tops are pretty much in line with the floor of the car, so I've been on the wall wrt a rear bar.

Checked 1 and 3, both were fine. Didn't directly check 2 but there isnt any rotational play between the rear wheels and when I put the stereoscope on the rear diff and didn't hear anything there other than a slight hum. Didn't check for in-out play in any way though, and with the more extreme angle at full droop any minor issues in the outer joint would lead to noise like observed.

 

 

 

The car is really loud inside now on the highway, almost like a window is open, which lead to this testing. Symptoms SEEM to match, except there is ZERO play in any of the hubs.

 

 

 

Found some NTN (OEM brand) replacment bearing on eBay for $55 each so I wont be out much if this dosen't fix it.

 

 

 

I'm hoping the front driver side isn't also bad as I have no interest in separating rusty ball joints. I wonder if there is a way to get the hub off without doing that.

FWIW, it's common to have noisy bearings and have no play. The majority of hub bearings I've replaced had no play. My RF bearing was getting loud, no play though.

 

My last vehicle, an 08 Chevy Malibu, had both front bearings loud and rowdy, tight as a German... well you know..

 

Scotty

Might be kind of late now but, if you drive the car on a flyover ramp or highspeed exit clover leaf type with the radio turned off you'll hear the bad bearing as the loading changes.

 

Also if you ride in the back seat while someone drives the car...you'll be surprised what you hear from back there.

 

The noise chances when turning, but it's not what you;d expect. It more changes in tone and gets QUIETER while turning. In tight turns at low speed it also has a trick where the rotors will touch the dust shield or the guides on the calipers will start rubbing across the groves in the rotors. But any shop that's looked at them has said they were fine.

 

FWIW, it's common to have noisy bearings and have no play. The majority of hub bearings I've replaced had no play. My RF bearing was getting loud, no play though.

 

My last vehicle, an 08 Chevy Malibu, had both front bearings loud and rowdy, tight as a German... well you know..

 

I'm almost at the point of saying screw it replace all 4. There is at least some noise from three of the four while air driving.

You can bend the dust shields back with your hand, just get under there and make the adjustment.

I always try to replace wheel bearings in pairs fwiw.

 

If you're doing one front wheel, might as well do the other and same for the rears. Same for lights, do both sides. Lots of jobs actually, bc inevitably the other sides gonna go a week later.

I always try to replace wheel bearings in pairs fwiw.

 

If you're doing one front wheel, might as well do the other and same for the rears. Same for lights, do both sides. Lots of jobs actually, bc inevitably the other sides gonna go a week later.

 

I did the same thing last year.

First replaced the pair of fronts, then the pair of rears with NTN.

 

Hopefully going to be quiet for a while now.

Four NTN wheel bearings, four wheel nut, new mounting bolts, new front dust shields (they are in bad shape), and a 32mm socket ordered . Now what else am I missing that I need to do while I have all that appart...

 

We just got word that we probably wont be in the office again until June 1st, so if it takes a few days no big deal.

 

Note for any one swapping dust shields on our cars, 26290AG010 is about a third of the cost of the one the parts catalog suggest, and it's the same thing just made in Japan instead of the USA.

I always try to replace wheel bearings in pairs fwiw.

 

If you're doing one front wheel, might as well do the other and same for the rears. Same for lights, do both sides. Lots of jobs actually, bc inevitably the other sides gonna go a week later.

 

 

 

 

I agree and try to do the same, but replacing wheel bearings is only fun first 50 times...

Note for any one swapping dust shields on our cars, 26290AG010 is about a third of the cost of the one the parts catalog suggest, and it's the same thing just made in Japan instead of the USA.

 

 

 

 

Says Forester, does it fit our front wheel bearings/clear calipers? Nicely priced at 15-17 online...

Says Forester, does it fit our front wheel bearings/clear calipers? Nicely priced at 15-17 online...

 

Yep, because the newer FXT was the only Japan made car to use breaks big enough to need it sold here. Outback/Legacy are USA made, and the STI uses something completely diffrent.

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b13/type_96/brake_system/front_brake/illustration_2/

 

Remember kids, Subarus are Legos. The modern global platform is STILL based on our cars from roughly the b-pillar forward. And FHI is poor and reuse the same parts as often as possible. So cross check Japanese/American versions (ends in an "A") of everything to see if you can get a better deal.

I bought a downpipe from a guy who had a '13 STi and he didn't believe me that it would fit my car. Told me when I needed to sell it back to him it'd be no problem.

 

That was awhile ago, but just to illustrate your point. I saw a post on FB with an LGT wagon sporting a +17 STi catback. Fit nicely.

Edited April 28, 2020 by BoozeRS05

Bought a Fluidampr to swap in for the Perrin LWCP. Any tips on grinding down the timing belt lip are appreciated - was thinking Dremel in place with rag stuffed into the gap to avoid shavings getting inside the cover. Unless the center timing cover is easy to take off? I plan to do the serpentine belt method for removing the pulley bolt (have two new ones to go on while I'm in there).

Bought a Fluidampr to swap in for the Perrin LWCP. Any tips on grinding down the timing belt lip are appreciated - was thinking Dremel in place with rag stuffed into the gap to avoid shavings getting inside the cover. Unless the center timing cover is easy to take off? I plan to do the serpentine belt method for removing the pulley bolt (have two new ones to go on while I'm in there).

Take the timing cover off. It's super easy and will save the headache of cleaning plastic shavings out. I use the dremel with a plastic cutting wheel and then just cleaned up the cut surface and interior of the timing cover.

I just did this - there was no way I would have been able to do a clean job without removing the cover.

Same

Take the timing cover off. It's super easy and will save the headache of cleaning plastic shavings out. I use the dremel with a plastic cutting wheel and then just cleaned up the cut surface and interior of the timing cover.

 

I just did this - there was no way I would have been able to do a clean job without removing the cover.

 

How much needs to be trimmed?

Aaaand my misfire is still there. Should I shop the injectors or diy? The videos don't look too bad.

How much needs to be trimmed?

 

 

Flush with the rest of the cover.

Called the machine shop working on my shortblock since they've been radio silent (and last time I called was a busy tone). Had a nice convo with the owner, said they're almost done with the block and should be ready for me in a week or two. Was originally going to have him ship me the block, but during the phone convo, I asked him his opinions on flywheel resurfacing vs. buying new, and he said he can and does resurface flywheels for Subaru builds with no issue. So likely I'll be driving down with a spare flywheel for them to turn while we're finalizing paperwork/payment and loading the block in the car.

Got some time off from work and finally got some productive work done on the wagon. Installed the dual center console and swapped on a WRX lid with red stitching and began to take apart the entire rear interior of the car to install the McIntosh cargo area subwoofer bracket and the JDM STI rear strut bar.

 

Became a little side tracked in the process and decided to clean the body and lay down some sound deadening I have laying around. I think I hit that nice medium of enough material to reduce noise while not adding too much weight. Although still debating if I want to add a little more. Need a few more grommets/screws to secure the sub-woofer bracket so ordered and waiting on those to finish that and then put the strut bar and interior plastics back in.

How much needs to be trimmed?

I actually left a few mm of the lip. There was still some clearance between the lip and pulley. If it wasn't enough, the pulley cleared what it needed, haha.

Working up a quick Fluidampr install tool. I'm going to confirm dimensions once I have the real thing here. Figure I'll burn it out of 3/8" thick 304 stainless on our plasma machine.