Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

Nope just misfires on cylinder 1 and 3. I don't think a code comes up for timing being off. If the belt is off by a 1 or 2 teeth it can start, more than that and it wont. Edited October 16, 2021 by Tehnation

I say tensioner because more hp/tq and or rpm is more force on the tensioner, no? And it seems to go off timing on harder acceleration. Edited October 16, 2021 by Tehnation

You don't need a new belt if your belt is new. The marks will never line up again. You have to use the marks on the crank sprocket, cam pulleys and timing covers. I also highly doubt a brand new tensioner would fail (unless the bolt lost torque, etc).

 

I hope you didn't just bend all of your valves which means you lost compression and the reason it won't start.

 

Check the timing alignment and take some pictures to post. It would also be good to remove spark plugs and rotate the assembly by hand to see if you get resistance. You shouldn't get any resistance with the plugs removed.

I just think it went out of timing by a tooth or 2, it happened a couple days ago, same thing where it died then started up a couple minutes later. Looks to me like it keeps jumping a tooth, and this second time it happened it jumped enough to not start. The tensioner is fine, didn't say it failed, more like its not doing the job properly. If it kissed the valves I woulda heard something, hope it didn't though. Who knows we'll find out tomorrow. Maybe cam gear is getting stuck?

 

Any other reason why timing belt would jump a tooth?

Edited October 17, 2021 by Tehnation

Sooooo timing looks alright...... I think. Now I am completely confused. Only cels I got are for misfire on 1 and 3, passenger side cylinders basically.

I think its time to take a break from this lol, come back when I am not nerd raging and wanting to set this car on fire. At least its not a big problem like valves smacking pistons....

 

 

 

 

Motor keeps turning over but doesn't start. Either Fuel, Spark or Air, cause timing seems right. Discuss!

Edited October 17, 2021 by Tehnation

If it were an injector, coil pack or spark plug, the motor would at least start and run like crap.

 

I have fuel pressure around 30 something psi when I was trying to start yesterday, so pump is doing what its supposed and I can hear it cycling on.

 

Maybe stuck injector flooded the cylinder? They were sitting for a while.

 

Fuel? Its been sitting for over a year....

 

Guess I will start with fuses.

Edited October 17, 2021 by Tehnation

If I recall correctly, if the coolant temp sensor in the crossover pipe isn't reading properly, then the ECU will prevent start so that it doesn't risk overheating the engine. That might be a possible option for no-start.

does that cause a code?

So a thought crossed my mind, and I said let me actually try starting the car, and if fired right up (on the battery alone cause I have the timing cover off)...... wish I would have waited until today before removing all this crap.

 

So something is getting hot or malfunctioning!

 

DAMNIT! One sec, putting my fans, timing cover, accessory belts back on, brb!

So, coolant temp sensor? For 20 bucks I'll change it. Looks like a pita to change though.

 

Maybe I will grab a new thermostat as well.

 

Would a faulty iat wire/sensor cause the same symptoms?

 

I hit the gas to do a hard pull, and it just lost all power then couldn't start again until this morning.

 

 

Just pulled codes now I have P0113, this damn iat sensor again. Maybe that's the culprit. I have a new MAF. I'll start there. Connector pigtail comes tomorrow.

Edited October 17, 2021 by Tehnation

Damn, good luck, hope it's just that sensor.

I changed the maf sensor, the iat is part of the maf right? Well lets see how that goes, OH GOD, I gotta reset the ecu... wtf! Back to zero miles for emissions.... garage wouldn't even inspect my car because the windows are tinted. Thats the way I bought it from the dealership in Houston, TX, then as I am pulling onto the street after not getting my 10 day extension I just floored it to relieve some frustration and this shit happened..... what a day.

Yes, IAT is that small probe hanging in the MAF. The MAF is down that tube.

Question, do our cars clear codes by themselves or do you HAVE to reset the ecu? When I get a cel on my mercedes it goes away itself after fixing the issue, can't remember if cels go away after fixing the problem.

 

On another note, got my DP today! Thanks again to Marvic08GT!

They may self reset by key cycles.....good question. You don't have access to a code reader or any other tool to reset the light? Can you clear codes/lights through the AP?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I have an accessport. But I don't want to start over my emissions miles.

 

But I did learn that if you turn the car on and off a couple times it goes away! No more CEL and I have my emission miles still building!

 

Speaking of accessport, my top button just shit the bed, I have to pretty much squeeze the hell of it to work.... wondering if I should send it back to cobb or open it up myself.... it works but its annoying having to press so firmly to get it to work, I nearly uninstalled the accessport by mistake lol.

Edited October 19, 2021 by Tehnation

Give Cobb a call, they are cool guys and really care. I have not had an issue with getting support for any Cobb parts.

Question, do our cars clear codes by themselves or do you HAVE to reset the ecu? When I get a cel on my mercedes it goes away itself after fixing the issue, can't remember if cels go away after fixing the problem.

 

On another note, got my DP today! Thanks again to Marvic08GT!

The code might be stored and still show on your emissions test. You might at least read the codes on the accessport to be sure. If it shows, you'll have to clear it and start over. If not, you're good to keep getting miles for testing.

Emissions just checks if the Cel is on or off. Stored codes don't matter.

So I just checked the dp I bought of marvick and its for an oem catback... it tapers to 2.25"..... back to the drawing board. Anyone interested in buying the catted dp let me know, its for a stock cat back. Edited October 24, 2021 by Tehnation

It will still work fine with a Grimmspeed adapter. I ran my Cobb dp w/3” Autospeed exhaust for damn near a decade before swapping to the SPT CBE. no real downside. I now make 375/425 with the Cobb/spt setup.

the back pressure effects the turbo. More or less will change how the turbo flows air.

Meh. In theory yes, but in practice it’s really going to depend on how big you plan to go. Are you on an EWG setup?

IWG. My turbo doesn't even come on until 4k. I'm trying to move the power band to the right, I want to get up to 7.5-8k rpm. I'll see what the tuner says and take it from there, but I'm assuming I need to do something about that 2.25 taper.

E85 an option? That’ll move her left, even better. Not sure what an 18g flows and I’m feeling lazy. I have an ancient avo380 (built on a Garrett gt28 chra) that is rated at 44lbs/min and it is an absolute pig on pump gas but brilliant on ethanol. If it’s an option it’s worth the cost

 

 

I see what you’re saying though. At the upper limit of rpms that small taper might make a difference.

Edited October 24, 2021 by Code