Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

Depends on what you want for a DP. Stick or auto? New or used?

 

New, stick DPs are all over. Used....get your search on.

 

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cheap ..... So far I have my eye on the Invidia HS08SW1DOC , Whatever does the job for the lowest price. I've had this cheap dp forever, and it does what its supposed to do, has an extra bung for my wideband sensor. I paid like 250 or so for it.... Its a metal pipe not much science going on there.

 

 

<--- my profile, 5mt!

I'm on TT......don't see em!

 

The 1320 catless I bought to run for now isn't bad for the price but again.....catless. It also has the extra bung. As soon as the honeycomb gets tossed in the mix the price jumps substantially.

 

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Cobb Catted Downpipe (1k miles) for sale in my thread. PM if interested, will give you a better deal. Great thread BTW, I am too ADHD to document lol

Cobb Catted Downpipe (1k miles) for sale in my thread. PM if interested, will give you a better deal. Great thread BTW, I am too ADHD to document lol

 

And SOLD! To this guy!

And it sounds like you got a great deal on it with the blanket even......damn stick shifters!

 

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So I am trying to diagnose my wiper switch and pump. Only the button on the end turns the pump motor on, it doesn't come on when I pull the stick back for some reason. Any ideas?

 

Also the fluid is just trickling out, is this the pump, or the nozzles? Car hasn't been run for like 2 years so anything could have happened.

 

Anyone come across these issues?

 

Ordered this guy for 13 bucks to get the ball rolling.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173996427875

wtf.... 20 miles and emissions still aren't ready... Evap and O2 tests... god damn cops are everywhere and now they don't even have to do police work, their car just tells them which plates have expired shit.... i want to get on the highway but thats just asking for trouble lol. Can hear me a mile away.

And it sounds like you got a great deal on it with the blanket even......damn stick shifters!

 

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I think these cars are a lot more fun with a manual!

 

The car has a bunch of power on this base tune. Car doesn't even go into boost until like 4k rpm. I love it, it just wants to eat! The cams give me enough power on the low end. I can't wait to get on the dyno.

Yeah I wish I had the option, especially after driving the AT for a while. It's nice to not have to shift but it really takes the fun away from what could be a great daily driver.

 

Kuddos on the build. You sound pleased and that alone is worth the blood, sweat and crusty fingernails lol.

 

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I've been told you need to drive 50-60 miles for the system to be ready for emissions testing.

Guess I'm just going to get it inspected tomorrow morning and get the 10 day extension so I can drive it like a normal person.

Guess I'm just going to get it inspected tomorrow morning and get the 10 day extension so I can drive it like a normal person.

 

that 50-60 miles should be varying speeds and loads. Which will be about the time to swap out your oil. be sure to send it in for analysis.

that 50-60 miles should be varying speeds and loads. Which will be about the time to swap out your oil. be sure to send it in for analysis.

 

Oil analysis! Good call, just requested some test kits from blackstone. Not sure if they will get here before 50 miles though.. I'm at 20 atm.

 

My neighborhood is filled with hills, turns and flats, perfect for varying speeds and loads. I need to get on the highway though, I don't think Ive gone past 3rd, don't know what 4th or 5th feel like.

years ago when i did my break in, i was told to avoid the freeway. the varying loads provided by a local hilly neighborhood were perfect.

It sounds like he is breaking in the new build and also trying to get miles on for clearing stored codes/emissions. We always ran the vehicles on local highway stretches for emissions around 40-50 miles.

 

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WTF! Car wont start, just shut off and I had to tow it back to my driveway......

 

I think this tensioner cant handle it. This is the same nonsense that happened the first time around, tensioner shit the bed and fubared the engine.

 

I need a better tensioner solution!

 

Whats out there? This is new territory for me, I see them going for 500 bucks... I need to check tomorrow if it was the timing or something else. But I seems to me like something jumped a couple teeth.

And all the timing marks have rubbed off the belt, so I can't tell anything.... when it rains it pours, gotta get a new belt as well. I usually get the gates blue kevlar belt.

Woof. What tensioner was this? I assume at least brand new after the previous one went? I've always used OEM and AISIN, with OEM on the latest build. I've had one AISIN tensioner fail within an hour of first start, but that was OBVIOUS from the racket it made behind the timing cover. Even then, didn't jump thanks to the belt guides (I assume yours were set properly).

 

The best option I'm aware of as far as upgrades go is the RCM setup which allows the more robust long cylinder OEM design to be used on our cars. Re-compression is supposed to be way easier too (don't have to go stupid slow like you have to with our tensioners).

 

Hopefully this is an easy fix. When I had that tensioner let go after finishing a build I was super stressed, but everything turned out OK. Fingers crossed dude.

I haven’t used this, but I know IAG has one

 

https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-performance-v2-competition-series-ej-timing-belt-tensioner/

Its a new oem tensioner. I don't see how it can just lose timing after 20 miles without it being some kind of design flaw in my build. One time, ok maybe the tensioner, two times now, its a build flaw.

 

Do I need something like this ? 500 bucks.... oh boy!

https://www.flatironstuning.com/rcm-high-grip-timing-belt-tensioner

 

I duno if its cause of the stage 3 cams.

I don't know why cams would change timing belt tension, assuming you were able to spin them freely when setting timing. Are you 100% it's the tensioner? What are the symptoms?

That IAG tensioner looks analogous to the RCM guy, btw.

I don't know why cams would change timing belt tension, assuming you were able to spin them freely when setting timing. Are you 100% it's the tensioner? What are the symptoms?

 

Motor just keeps turning over but doesn't start. I'm seeing a pattern between last year and now. Timing goes and I don't know why, I'm assuming its the tensioner because what else could it be? My belt guides are all good, pulleys etc. Thats the only thing I can think of.

 

The cams are meant to spin to 7.5-8k rpm maybe 10k can't remember, and I still have the intake avcs.

Huh. If the belt jumped and the car doesn't even try to kick, I'd expect cam position codes. Any there? This just seems super weird if it is the belt tensioner. Belt guides all look OK? Strange that the belt marks rubbed off that fast too - I've pulled belts with 5-10k on them that still had marks, though that wasn't Gates blue.