Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

Before you start the engine, go back over the coolant lines to the turbo, I had a loose one there.

wtf.... I button everything up, get my exhaust and intercooler on, remove the battery charger then attempt to connect the ground so I can start it up and the damn ground battery terminal bolt is so rusted it just snaps.....

 

Is there an easy way to replace that terminal? Off to autozone to find a replacement. They crimp the damn entire terminal to the wire..... wish it was 2 pieces instead of 1, gotta figure out how to uncrimp this thing or just cut it off but I don't want to lose any length.

 

Forgot I had a cutoff wheel! Cut the metal crimp, got all the cable to work with now. Off to autozone!

Edited October 11, 2021 by Tehnation

car fired right up!

 

Recharging ac and looks like my steering pump is leaking somewhere but thats about it for now!

 

I guess if you want something done right you gotta do it yourself!

Great job. Glad things are on the up for yah....it's been a long road!

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I'm BACK!

 

My steering is inconsistent, its easy then tough. I thought our systems didn't need to be bled or is something f'd up? I think I may just get another pump and get it over with, but i'm wondering if it may be the rack, anyway to diagnose the steering system?

 

Found a seal kit on amazon.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Steering-Seals-Subaru-Legacy/dp/B08G8WXPJF

 

I can get a pump for like 90 bucks on Amazon, ordering one now, and this kit. Going to rebuild the old one to see how it works.

 

https://www.amazon.com/ECCPP-Steering-2010-2013-2011-2014-2005-2009/dp/B07K1W785Q

 

ordered.

 

Now I gotta sneak around to get my emissions ready for inspection.

Edited October 11, 2021 by Tehnation

Our systems need to be bled as far as I'm aware. Start with the wheels off the ground, engine off, and crank the wheel side to side until the reservoir level stops dropping. Then fire the car up, and keep cranking the wheel until things smooth out. May be too late if it started dry and damaged the pump, but who knows.

Or, drive the car in figure 8's going lock to lock with the steering.

 

You need to get all the air out of the system.

 

Glad she fired right up. Doesn't that feel good.

I meant bleed as in get the air out, not to flush the system. The air in lines should just go back to the reservoir and then fluid without air goes back into the pump. I think maybe some driving will fix it, we will see. It was leaking when I first started it, had to retighten the lines to the pump, then it stopped leaking, but I bet a lot of air got in.

Hmmm. the passenger side wiper blade seems to be able to move out of alignment, its like its spinning freely on the axle. Motor seems week as well.... ah boy, I forgot about all the crap I have to fix after getting the car to actually move...

 

 

-Fix wiper arms and sprayer

-Fix trunk latch, it always sticks when I pull the lever inside by drivers seat

-Install front wheel well covers, and get a skid plate

-Shit ton of body work, I banged it up a long while back and basically just put it back together, bunch of stuff needs changing like rear bumper(I have newer rear lights for newer 08+ bumper style) and driver door, plus a bunch

of dings need to be pulled sanded and painted. Also have to get the entire front end painted and hood bent into right shape.

-Need to thoroughly clean the seats and door panels, everything has grease/oil/dirt etc. I have tan panels and seats so its very noticeable. Probably need a new dashboard as well, mine is fubar.

-Need to add another resonator for the exhaust, still too damn loud.

-Need a 4 wheel alignment

-Need to bring in for recall stuff, the brakes and airbags.

-Need to replace the windshield. Can you fail an inspection for a cracked windshield?

-install a pillar gauges

-And most important, I need an inspection lol!

 

The Saga continues

 

......to be continued!

Edited October 11, 2021 by Tehnation

I meant bleed as in get the air out, not to flush the system. The air in lines should just go back to the reservoir and then fluid without air goes back into the pump. I think maybe some driving will fix it, we will see. It was leaking when I first started it, had to retighten the lines to the pump, then it stopped leaking, but I bet a lot of air got in.

 

Yes, doing figure 8's going lock to lock at low speed will bleed the air out. That's what my trusted mechanic told me after he replaced the pump years ago. Just find an empty spot in a parking lot and do a few figure 8's.

So I ran all the wiring for my a pillar gauge, and for the boost gauge I used the vacuum line from above cylinder 4, normally it connects to fpr, but I use another line for that so this is free. I had to use a bigger rubber hose and a vacuum connector to get it to work with the smaller hose that was supplied with the gauge.

 

I went underneath the hood fuse box, into the fender, into that grommet, into the cabin, then up through the a pillar. I used a coat hanger to pull the wires from the floor up, then I dropped down 3 wires taped together with the ends taped with different colors to know whats what. Ahhh here are pictures, maybe i'll organize them later

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 12, 2021 by Tehnation

I'm going to splice those 3 lines into 3 smaller lines for each wire to power each gauge. One for power, ground and dimming. At the other end I'm going to connect it to my cigarette lights, ground it on the big metal bar the radio uses, and connect the last one to the radio illumination.

 

Edit: scratch the splice into 3 smaller wires part, I just spliced everything together because I already had a lot of wire to play utilize. I'm also going to use quick disconnects so I can completely disconnect the A pillar, see below.

 

 

Edited October 13, 2021 by Tehnation

So I setup all the wires on the A pillar and gauges.

 

 

The top right 2 connectors are for the oil pressure and oil temp sensors, the 3 sets of bridged wires in the middle are for power, ground and dimming, the thick wire with the box is for the O2 sensor for the a/f gauge, and the usb wire is for connecting and programming the oil temp/pressure gauge settings like oil pressure and temperature alarms, metric/imperial, color ranges for temperature(green, yellow and red) etc.

 

 

I had to move the boost gauge to bottom because that hose is the shortest. Had to put the oil temp/pressure gauge on top because it didn't fit snug like the other 2 gauges and I had to put in a bracket, which required me to cut out a bigger area, normally it was a .5"-1" hole and was to small to get the bracket and my fingers in to screw on the locking bracket((i screwed in one side, then rotated it to screw in the other side, real pita!). The top had no insulation and was easiest to cut out a bigger opening.

 

Edited October 13, 2021 by Tehnation

So I added tails for the bridged wires and ordered some quick disconnects so I can actually disconnect the pillar. I may cut a piece of the vacuum hose and put in a connector if I can find the right size to make it easier to deal with.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MXB3GG/

 

gauges are in, O2 sensor is calibrated, violet wire from the radio was used for dimming and worked like a charm!

 

Also fixed my wipers, just had to pop the cap off and tighten the bolt.

Got a p0113 code? Any ideas ? iat sensor?

cleaned the maf, hopefully it doesn't come back. Ordered another one just in case, didn't go oem, bought Denso 197-6040. Edited October 13, 2021 by Tehnation

wtf , tuner is telling me I need a catted downpipe.... god damn tree huggers....

hmmm, anyone know if the iat sensor from the maf goes through the big brown connector under the intercooler or through the main harness connection next to passenger strut tower??

Also ordered a new connector in case its a connection issue

 

https://www.iwireservices.com/product-page/maf-plug-02-07

hmmm, anyone know if the iat sensor from the maf goes through the big brown connector under the intercooler or through the main harness connection next to passenger strut tower??

I'm pretty sure it's the main harness connector as that is the straight shot to the ecu.

I'm pretty sure it's the main harness connector as that is the straight shot to the ecu.

 

Your right, it goes right to that main harness and then they all go into cabin.

 

Looks like its a connection issue, I reset the ecu and it hasn't come back since. I will change the maf connector, seems finicky.

Yes, doing figure 8's going lock to lock at low speed will bleed the air out. That's what my trusted mechanic told me after he replaced the pump years ago. Just find an empty spot in a parking lot and do a few figure 8's.

 

That fixed everything lol, now I got all this extra shit . I'll throw it on the shelf for a rainy day!

Now I gotta find a catted dp with an extra o2 bung.

 

How long does it take for evap and o2 tests to clear for emissions? I gotta get this to a inspection place before some random light comes on....