2007 LGT and a VF52

Hey ya'll. So I plan on, in the future, to upgrade to the VF52 or equivalent and just would like to feel out thoughts on this forum. I plan to do this very slowly and only get one or two things done a year and curious to know what order should I go about this?

 

With the idea that I plan to upgrade the turbo to a VF52 where is a good starting point for mods?

 

At that point, is the accessport worth it? Should I start with a downpipe or intake first instead of an AP? What are some mods that I should absolutely do in preparation for the turbo?

 

My car is bone stock but my goals are to get to 300WHP in a few years time, slow and steady.

 

sorry for the super nooby questions but we gotta start somewhere

 

currently the car has 107,000mi 1 owner and im getting it checked out at P&L

Edited June 5, 2020 by Supernyamo

If your plan is to do only one mod at a time, tuning is going to kick your butt on your way to a VF52 setup. Example path:

 

1. buy accessport, use off-the-shelf (OTS) map.

2. buy downpipe, use new OTS map.

3. buy intercooler, could get by with OTS map, but best to get custom tune.

4. buy new injectors/fuel pump for turbo upgrade, requires new custom tune.

5. Anything else you do to prep. for turbo (TGV deletes, intake parts, etc.) requires new custom tune.

6. Finally install turbo, requires new custom tune.

 

Every custom tune is gonna be a few hundred dollar hit; but if you're comfortable with that, there's no reason you can't do it piece by piece. Regardless, the AP is a good first step. It's most tuner's go to platform for these cars.

For a vf52 you don't need injectors or fuel pump upgrade. I'm the poster child for the vf52 on these cars.

 

Installed mine at 142,000 miles back in Aug 2011. Car was dynoed tuned at 21psi on stock fueling. That vf52 still has zero shaft play 150,000 miles later.

 

I bough the Cobb AP V1 Dec 2004 upgraded to V2 before the dyno tune upgraded to V3 a few years back.

 

The car still has the stock intake system, it's hard to beat until your make big HP

 

 

As Chocoholic said, I would do 1, 2, then 3 or 4 next or at the same time.

 

The Grimmspeed tmic is not cheap but it fits well and is easy to install or remove when you need to. The OEM tmic style can be a nightmare to install and get lined up besides it will leak as you increase boost. There is a way to re-enforce it if you want, I think there's a sticky here somewhere for that.

 

You want to get your tune from a Great Tuner, there are only two I recommend, depending on where you live. I think your in the Northwest from you mentioning P&L, I think some else said that's where they are.

 

Dave at https://www.cryotuneperformance.com/ is out west.

 

My Tuner, tuningalliance@gmail.com is the other, he's here in CT. He is the best IMO.

 

Both work with Cobb AP. Mike of TA talked with Trey Cobb back in 2004 when he found the timing issue in these cars back in 2004.

 

Mike knows these cars better then just about anyone.

 

Oh, my vf52 is bolted to my up pipe. Remove the studs from the up pipe and use the same flange bolts that hold the up pipe bracket to the engine block, any dealership will have those bolts. Bolting the turbo makes lining thing up much easier.

 

You'll also want a new oil return hose.

 

Edited June 5, 2020 by Max Capacity

Max knows what he's talking about. I posted a similar thread last year and he made a few recommendations. I listened and am very happy with the results. Currently have a vf52, Grimmspeed TMIC, CNT 3" catted downpipe, 3" uncatted uppipe, Cobb intake and v3 accessport, and a set of uel headers. Car dynoed Tuesday at 278 hp and 310ftlbs at 21psi. Going change my coils and plugs and give it another go in a week or so.

Gosh you guys are such a wealth of information. I'm so happy I found this forum.

 

Thanks so much for all this. I'm going to get an AP sooner than I thought just at least for monitoring and all that

 

Here's a pic of her, I finally got her home.

 

Yes I'm in the Midwest, Chicago!

Clean looking car. A good resource for you in the Chicagoland area is Legacy United LLC, who goes by the name gtrekt on here. He parts out a lot of Legacies and turbo Subarus in general, so any parts you may need that you don't want to buy new he'll probably have. Usually has some aftermarket stuff that comes off of cars too. Good dude, I've bought plenty of parts from him.

 

https://www.facebook.com/LegacyUnitedLLC/

Oh man that's so helpful. Thanks so freaken much I'm honestly overwhelmed with how much I like this car and how cool y'all are. Thank you!!

That car looks super clean. Good find and good luck.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

When you get the Cobb AP, load the stage 1 MAP, I remember thinking back after I did that thinking, this is how the car should have come from the factory. It's a nice bump to power.

 

Also at 107,000 miles, we assume the timing belt was replaced already, is that correct ?

 

For best results, make sure the spark plugs are fresh and the air filter and MAF sensor are clean.

 

I clean my MAF yearly or twice a year in my wagon, it gets a lot of miles.

 

Is the car a 5mt or 5eat ?

 

Oh, here's the service manual,

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

Haha thanks everyone!

 

Max Capacity, the timing belt was replaced in February.

6star did it along with the spark plugs as well as a compression test which was good results. The car is a 5eat. I will definitely clean the MAF.

Pick up a can of MAF cleaner from the auto parts store. Remove the two phillips screws holding it in. You can leave it plugged in or remove the plug. Give the tube a short spray and the IAT sensor a quick shot. Let it dry for a few minutes and reinstall. Don't over tighten the screws.

 

If the car runs well now and has no issues going to redline, you'll be fine doing the upgrades.

 

Make sure you check the oil level often until you learn how much oil the engine uses. Always keep the oil level full or a little over.

 

My new oil level check process is, park the car on level ground, lift the dip stick and put it back in until the plastic handle is resting on the tube. Close the hood and walk away. After work, open the hood, pull the dip stick out and check the level, add the distance that handle was above the tube and that's your correct oil level, Good Luck.

 

That's the biggest PITA with these cars.

 

My wagon sees WOT normally at least once a day or more. It's a blast to feel it push me back into the seat in 2nd and 3rd gear. Even getting onto the highway, even in 4th gear it has good pull.

Edited June 6, 2020 by Max Capacity

YESSIR.

 

And here's what was done FYI

Good pricing there.

 

The PS pump could be the simple O-ring fix. There may be a DIY on here. Pretty common with these cars.

 

The whining noise is kind of normal too. After my steering rack replaced a few weeks back, the trusted mechanic told me they have seen that with a number of these cars.

 

 

Found it, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-power-steering-o-ring-247949.html

 

 

I have also replaced the U shaped crush washer on the side hose on the pump. Not a big job.

Edited June 6, 2020 by Max Capacity

Max you're seriously awesome, I want to learn as much as possible about these cars and you're so helpful. Thanks again, and you know what's weird? The CEL came on just now what the heck lol. It drives smooth and quiet and everything is clean and it got a clean bill of health just Feb LOL. Does the money pit begin already??

My guess is front O2 sensor. Or the gas cap is loose.

 

Most any auto parts store will read the code for free.

 

Once you know, or fix the CEL. You can reset the ECU by taking the negative battery cable off for 15 min's. After hooking the cable back up, after you've cleaned it, turn the Key to On for 10 seconds, then start the engine. If you don't wait 10 seconds, the engine will not fire up until 10 seconds of cranking.

 

 

I drive the car after resetting the ECU as I would normally, others say to let it idle for 10 minutes.

.

Edited June 6, 2020 by Max Capacity

You're freaken awesome thanks max!!!! I also took it to Subaru to get it checked out. I got the code read as P0011 and P0021 so I didn't want to play any games, they found nothing wrong with it and the inspection was free because of that it.

 

Then the car guys I made buddies with when I was first searching for a car came out and they were so adorable and gushed all over this car. They also said it was mint looking haha. I'm so happy that I got this car.

 

Y'all are cool people

Sorry to tell you the bad news, Those are the death codes for the turbo.

 

I was lucky and got another 1000 miles out of my turbo after having those codes.

 

I recommend you stop driving the car.

 

07-09's normally don't have those codes.

 

At a minimum I would think you need to have P&L check out the Oil control valves and banjo filters.

 

05-06's have the banjo filters on the sides of the heads, the filters become blocked and cause those codes. We remove them from 05-06's.

 

07-09's they moved the banjo bolts and filters up on top of the oil control valves if I'm correct.

 

See the picture in this thread, https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2834394

 

The 0011 code is the one in front of the turbo. 0021 is the one on the front drivers side.

That's what I thought so too, but the code cleared up and hasn't returned but I am definitely going to get it checked out asap then!! I promise.

 

So does that mean I can get the vf52 sooner haha...

 

Since I'm really not driving much this year and I work from home the rest of the year I probably can swing putting in the new turbo money wise.

 

I would rather not beat around the bush! Does Subaru not typically check the turbo or banjo filter during inspection?

Edited June 6, 2020 by Supernyamo

Also, is there another turbo option that replaces the turbo without upgrading the intercooler but is more safe than stock?

To check the turbo for shaft play the down pipe needs to be removed, that is a big job the first time. Once you have a 3" Dp on it's much easier.

 

Here's my thread a 1000 miles after I got those codes. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/142-000-miles-oem-turbo-168561.html

Also, is there another turbo option that replaces the turbo without upgrading the intercooler but is more safe than stock?

 

Your oem tmic well be fine for he short term, it won't last long at higher boost unless to do the "bullet proof MOD" Its on here somewhere.

 

vf46 which is a. oh yeah, that's what you have now.

 

You might want to contact member "JmP6889928" he rebuilds these turbo better then stock. If you have time, that might be a good option to save money. He can get you more HP out of your turbo.

 

 

 

You might get lucky and find a used GS tmic in the for sale forum.

 

 

I'll check back in after going out to pick up take out dinner, crazy times we're in...

Edited June 6, 2020 by Max Capacity

Oh gosh thanks a lot for all this. Trying to figure things out.

 

Welcome to the legacy gt family I guess right haahha!

Reach out to JmP6889928 and see what he thinks and what his time frame is and what he can do for your turbo.

 

That would be the best route to go, you know what you got and he's a highly trusted member.

 

Another great member to PM would be "m sprank" he used to have a repair shop in CA but recently moved to W VA. I think it was he knows a lot about these cars.

 

 

There are so many options and prices for these turbos out there now days...the one lesson we all have learned is sometimes you get what you pay for.

 

I paid $1100 for my vf52 back in 2011 from from Mike at http://www.AZPinstalls.com I called him before 10AM and had it the next day. That thing has been amazing since a few day's later after I left the dyno.

 

If you thinking about a Tuner, I know TA, Mike Kinsman will also rebuild your turbo, he is also the one I highly recommend you have tune you car using the Cobb AP. He may also be able to offer you some kind of a package for to help with cost. I can't gauranty that but you never know. You can IM Mike through his gmail.

 

You can tell him I sent you.

Edited June 6, 2020 by Max Capacity

Thank you! I am taking everything you say and trying to learn. Right now though I think I'm just happy to have an excuse to upgrade my turbo lol so I'm just gonna stick with the vf52 build and figure out a way to get the parts slowly and correctly waiting for any deals.

 

Oh and I'm going to just garage the car however would it do just to leave it off or should I power it on once a month? I don't know how long I'm going to have it sit before the turbo but it just depends on the parts I can find. Hoping to purchase mostly locally.

Ran a modded VF52 with billet wheel and ported for 4 years with stock injectors and fuel pump and a tune of course...

 

 

One of the best mods I have done with Quiafe ATB front LSD and DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft..