I think my turbo blew in Topeka KS

Yea I've been reading the rebuild threads. The sticky and Max's. I'm going to have to debate exactly what I want to do. I want to save the money and do the work but at the same time I have basically no tools or experience. I'm not a gearhead either. I like having skills so like when my civic blew a radiator hose I fixed that but this is other level obv.

 

 

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You can get it cheaper than this if you do your research and hunt forums/inter webs, but this is everything you need minus fluids.

 

https://www.importimageracing.com/products/import-image-2-5l-build-package-1-handles-600hp-subaru-wrx-sti-ej-turbo-models-2002-2019?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjJjNiO3z4gIVjvhkCh3--QclEAQYASABEgI9KfD_BwE&variant=12263765901408

 

500 to get your heads refreshed.

 

Pull and reinstall the motor yourself the machine work runs maybe 500.

 

 

Youre well under 4-5k

 

If you’re time is more valuable than the 5-10 hours of labor for the motor removal/install just tack that on. IMO it’s not worth putting oem parts back in besides saving the $ on rods, so many people making big power on oem rods.

We can help with all the on line questions you'll have.

 

I think there are enough pictures here and info to guide you.

 

Harbor Fright tools are great, I'd guess for a 3-400 you can get most tools and floor jack and stands you'll need.

 

The engine hoist you can rent for the day.

 

How much will it cost you for a truck and trailer and tow the car home ?

 

May be check out local Subaru forums around your home for recommendations for good machine shops.

 

Make a list of parts with prices

 

The new ej257 and gasket set for your year car is the best way to go. Talk to the guys or parts manager at your local dealer and see if they'll help you out price wise with all the OEM parts you'll be buying. Most sell at a discount now days any ways. Tell them your story.

Edited June 18, 2019 by Max Capacity

Yea I was talking to my dad about it all. He's rebuilt one engine and replaced one (v6 and v8) and he said it's really not too bad. I've also got the time. I'll either have to wait 2 months to pay for someone to do the labor or do the labor myself.

 

I'm also looking at replacing the clutch while I'm in there. I've reached out to jmp already and when I get it home I'll pull the turbo and see how bad it is (I'm just gonna figure it's beyond toasted).

 

Truck and trailer would have been $1150 plus gas. Transport was $900 and bus ticket $215. They are picking up the car tomorrow for transport.

 

I'm sort of excited, sort of terrified, sort of frustrated. But I know that in 2 years I'll look back and both enjoy the car more, trust the car more, and have a good story. I won't go into excess debt over this so it'll be fine. Once I get going I'll probably put up a thread for it all.

 

 

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Good choice.

 

When I did my engine, I had time to make a plan and did it when I was ready. Hopefully that will work for you too.

I'm currently thinking about overlapping stuff to do at the same time. (Lots of downtime until Thursday.) I figure clutch and lightweight crank pulley at least. Oil line for the turbo? Idk if painting that coolant pipe did anything for you max? I planned to do front struts and sway bar so if those are easier at the same time. And idk if a high flow dp is worthwhile. I get smogged and I'm a hippy so I'll keep the cat.

 

 

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You can get a high flow catted DP - is the route I went after smelling the catless pipe a bit too long. You'll obviously need a tune with the pipe - plenty of options for e-tunes if you don't have someone local to you. I trust Cryo based on personal experience, FWIW. Could also just go stage 1 with the stock DP to get a little more pep out of the car.

 

I'd do the rear sway before the front. The stock OBXT rear bar is a noodle - get under there and yank on it with your hand to see what I mean. If you're upgrading the struts, don't do one axle at a time. I'd get some stiffer springs and maybe some upgraded dampers - there isn't really a OE-style strut/spring combo for these cars that's excessively stiff. Are you keeping it Outback height, or interested in getting a Legacy type ride?

 

Oh, and if the motor's coming out, I'd invest in some Group N engine and trans mounts, and a shifter bushing kit. Those things will tighten up the way the car feels way more than you'd expect, without making it harsh.

Edited June 18, 2019 by awfulwaffle

I have removed the catless Dp and now have a catted Dp so its easier to pass emissions test, visual.

 

Not a big fan of the LWCP I'm still running the crank pulley that came on the car.

 

It does currently have a 07-09 single mass FW and Spec 2+ clutch. Had that put in at 215,000 miles if I recall correctly.

 

The 3" Dp and a tune with Cobb AP it a good start.

 

Just to keep it simple, I would not do the Cobb and Dp yet. Keep things stock until you have it running. Less things to worry about. I'm 64y/o and not good with computers and loading the AP into the ECU.

 

If your confident loading the AP in before you start it for the first time because you have the 3" Dp... The DP and Cobb will be another $1000. If you plan to keep the car, I highly recommend the Cobb AP and catted Dp. It really wakes the car up and give great "bang for the buck". I get 24-25mpg still on my DD over the week.

 

But I would keep it simple for now. Get a good clutch kit, the new pieces for the engine and start the engine with new spark plugs on the stock map in the ECU now.

Perfect. That's all great advice. My hp goals are a whopping stock 243 or whatever it was. I've thought it was funny reading some threads about brakes and suspension "Well how often do you really do canyon runs?" For me uhhh weekly.

 

Yea I plan to keep it and the only reason I thought about the DP was do to already having the engine out but I didn't realize it needs a tune for that. I guess basically anything that changes input or output requires a tune.

 

I plan to do the rear. I can feel what people talk about with the floatiness but by comparison to what I'm used to the outback is fantastic. I had thought about lowering it but I go through the desert enough that stock height seems better. And not so much an upgrade to the struts as a replacement.

 

I've heard the uhhh kyb struts with the king rear springs feel good, lower some body roll, and help with weight load. It's not unreasonable for me to put 4x 180lbs people, 100lbs in bikes and 100lbs in hitch into the car. Plus whatever other riding gear camping gear and coolers.

 

No real intent to ever track, rx, do anything like that. Just fun to and from the trails and ski resorts.

 

 

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I think rallysportdirect.com is out of salt lake.....I’m sure they could direct you to some competent engine builders/machine shops. Max capacity has an 05 so the ej257 was the direct replacement short block for him.....the ej255 is the replacement short block for your 08. If you put the ej257 in you’re going to need a professional tune because it’ll alter your compression ratio, the pistons have different dishes.

FWIW, I remember my Tuner saying at the 500 mile street tune on the ej257, there was no real difference between the ej255 and ej257, that would cause him to make any adjustment to the Tune that had been in the car.

 

I know he is one of the Best Tuners for these cars, so I can trust him. I believe the only difference in the long blocks are the different heads, I thought 05-09 GT's and XT's had the same engines ?

07-09 lgt/obxt and 08-14 wrx ej255 come with different pistons than ej257

The ej257 piston has a dish volume of 22cc vs the ej255 piston has a dish volume of about 25.5cc it’s a 15% difference

Well is there a benefit between the two? Maybe not at stock powers but I guess an increase in volume would help you run more power? I might be twisting that all around haha.

 

 

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No, for stock levels and convenience just replace it with an oem block....I would highly recommend a pro tune even with stock everything it will make your car more reliable, a little faster and smoother power delivery. The oem tune is shitty and even a lot of off the shelf tunes aren’t very good compared to what you get with a custom protune....tuners don’t charge much for stock everything tuning, its easy for them.

 

It’s like 1800 for a brand new ej255 shortblock.

The lower C/R makes it easier to tune. Yes the higher C/R will give more power but is a little harder to tune.

 

For your goals the ej255 will be fine. My main reason for going with the ej257 back in May 2012 was cost, the ej257 was $200 cheaper back then.

 

I also run one step colder spark plugs in both cars because they are cheaper and easier for the Tuner to tune with.

Edited June 20, 2019 by Max Capacity

The difference between a 22cc vs 25.5cc piston dish changes the compression from 8.2:1 to 8.0:1. It is not significant difference in the tune and make the engine a little less knock resistant. Ideally it should be tune for any change.

OK cool that's what I was wondering. I also still need to look up this cold/hot spark plug thing. I'm guessing it's the temperature at ignition? But is the difference just cost and tuning? I've always just run whatever was spec for my car but they are like $1.50 each for the civic.

 

 

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The difference between a 22cc vs 25.5cc piston dish changes the compression from 8.2:1 to 8.0:1. It is not significant difference in the tune and make the engine a little less knock resistant. Ideally it should be tune for any change.

 

 

 

The ej257 piston paired with the D25 heads he has results in a 8.7-8.8 CR....which is a departure from the 8.5:1 factory spec.

 

The reason why it’s best to just replace it with all oem spec stuff is for ease of ownership/maintenance. You’re going to run all factory equipped everything why go ******* with your CR? Your vehicle came equipped with an ej255 block and D25 heads. The 05-06 vehicles came with a different block and heads.

 

I’m not trying to confuse him, it’s a lot of information for someone just getting involved in the platform.

 

No need for colder plugs, I’m running a 20g turbo on 91 and e85 and using oem plugs I buy directly from Subaru, I replace them every 30k miles and they look fine. My tuner (Yimi sport) had absolutely no objection.

 

If you’re going to do any mods maybe like you said springs/struts, a rear sway bar, some motor/trans mounts, a rear diff insert support from white line, some aftermarket bushings in your control arms. Also just do arp head studs/factory head gasket on your reassembly so you don’t have to worry about head gasket issues. You want factory power levels don’t overly complicate it, keep it factory spec and just address the few weak points. The car will run great for a very long time.

Outblack, I can't quote your posts. Oops you right on the values, I miss remembered your post when I wrote it. I got the 8.2:1 from a dealer brochure for 2007, I am not sure on the CR correct value. I want to put some prospective on the difference of CR.

 

I thinks it still probably fine, but not ideal (and I have experience tuning my own vehicles). I would agree the EJ255 with the right sized dish is probably better solution for stock bolt in solution and that is coming from someone who is a fan of higher CR forced induction motors when building them.

Hey again outblack.

 

I couldn't have gone more than a few hundred feet from failure. It's been towed to the dealer. Oil is still good, I had just put in half a quart about 80 miles before. Haven't checked coolant. Turbo heat shield and anything else I could see looked solid. I'll check all the pulleys. It's not the crank pulley or at least that looks like it's OK still.

 

I'm hoping it's something simple, that'd be great. Or if it's the turbo it's not the engine. Also that banjo bolt is coming off once it gets torn in to just in case. That and shrapnel seem to be the main causes of repeat failures.

 

I had been driving for about 4 hours today and took my first hard pull from a stop when leaving the toll booth. I'm guessing that's what did it. But there was no weirdness right after and it was still making boost then (what I assume is being in boost having never had a turbo before. That breathing kick in the pants feel when you start giving it throttle) and I think I made it five miles past there.

 

Unfortunately I absolutely LOVE this car. So it's getting repaired one way or another. And sunk cost fallacy. I just dropped 8.5k can't lose it.

 

 

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You've spent ~$10.5k(towing, title, gas, bus ticket, etc.) maybe more, on a car that wasn't worth $8.5k to start.

 

 

 

Fallacy or not, fiscally is that really they best choice for you?

 

 

 

If you had mentioned to us earlier that you were considering paying that much for that OBXT we would have saved you at least 4k miles worth for commuting.

You've spent ~$10.5k(towing, title, gas, bus ticket, etc.) maybe more, on a car that wasn't worth $8.5k to start.

 

 

 

Fallacy or not, fiscally is that really they best choice for you?

 

 

 

If you had mentioned to us earlier that you were considering paying that much for that OBXT we would have saved you at least 4k miles worth for commuting.

 

 

 

Actually I did mention it in a pre purchase thread. Outblack and maxcapacity commented on it. That actually was the time to be a negative person. Before I made the trip and bought the car. You didn't tell me so then so you don't even get an I told you so.

 

The car value is about 8250 from KBB and NADA. Similar mileage and year are going around that. At 120k they are at 10k to 15k right now in Cali and Oregon.

 

In addition to all that. I have 14k for a vehicle. Or had. And I have certain things that I wanted. Had to be manual and from there I wanted an awd wagon that was fun to drive. Suvs were off the table. So I could have gotten an 05 3 series wagon, or maybe an older audi.

 

All cars are an expense. I bike commuted from September to March exclusively. I have two cars now. Imo ANY car is an unnecessary expense. It is nice to have one to go biking in moab and get to the mountains but it's not necessary for me to have. I knew this was a risk with this car. And in the end I'll have a turbo manual awd wagon that's been fully rebuilt. There is currently one new model on the market that meets that and it drives like garbage.

 

So idk how you're trying to come in here with an I told you so. I haven't asked if this was a good financial decision. For all you know I could make six figures. I don't have kids. I have nearly no bills. I discussed all this with parents and people I trust before hand financially.

 

So do you have an opinion on stock power vs an upgrade while the engine is out? Or the engine blocks? Or the difference in spark plugs? Or anything that should be done for reliability or overlapping maintenance? Like water pump or spark plugs or clutch or belts or up pipe or down pipe?

 

Everyone here has been super great. I never once complained about the vehicle or knocked the reliability of Subaru or anything like that so if you wanted to save me money, you should have commented a week and a half ago.

 

 

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And you do realize what sunk cost fallacy is right? It's literally that people make irrational financial decisions on the idea that they've already spent x amount of money on something and they can't just "lose" that money. But it is a sunk cost. It's already spent. I literally said that it's a financially irrational decision because the rational decision from a financial stand point would be to recoup what I could from the vehicle and buy a different one.

 

Or at least weight the cost of that versus a rebuild. And I stated I refuse to do that because I have an emotional attachment to the vehicle itself.

Some of us have more than that in our cars that technically aren't worth it. As long as you take it for what it is going into it, have your finances squared away, and don't harbor any illusions about getting your money back out if you sell the car instead of driving it until it falls apart, what's it matter?

You've spent ~$10.5k(towing, title, gas, bus ticket, etc.) maybe more, on a car that wasn't worth $8.5k to start.

 

 

 

Fallacy or not, fiscally is that really they best choice for you?

 

 

 

If you had mentioned to us earlier that you were considering paying that much for that OBXT we would have saved you at least 4k miles worth for commuting.

 

 

 

8.5k isn’t a bad price for 150k 08 obxt with a manual transmission. They’re a rare commodity, not a 5mt lgt wagon rarity but they are becoming tough to find.

 

Sucks that his situation unfolded the way it did, but now he’ll have an intimate understanding of his vehicle once it’s squared away.