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Official Lowered Outback Thread V2


GTEASER

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So I was able to perform a partial alignment (reasons below) for the first time since lowering 2” with the car on the ground with two pieces of plywood under each tire. It worked for the most part, but it's hard to make adjustments with less room underneath and with having more weight on the components. The toe was way off, 3/8” off on one of the wheels.

 

I don't have the luxury of jacking up the car, make adjustments, and driving around to see how the car settles since I live in NYC and have street parking.

 

As for the frozen jamb nut on the inner tie rod... I PB blasted it, torched it, PB blasted for 24 hrs, torched it again, then banged it with a BFH, PB blasted... it's now free!

 

Next issue... the jamb nuts on the new rear Whiteline adjustable arms for toe are too big (I think it's 24mm). I gotta get a bigger set of wrenches. I was a wuss and didn't want to ruin them with my pipe wrench. Rear toe is toed in by 1/8"

 

Other issue: when setting camber in the front using the camber plates, I was able set it to max negative camber but I wasn't able to adjust it back from max... it's too much weight to move while the car is on the ground.

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My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

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Love this. Even if you never do it your self again, you learn so much. What this does, what that does, etc. And it only changes slightly from car to car. When the alignment guy says "your car doesn't have rear camber adjustment", you point at the part that adjusts that. (Sometimes the guy you tell that your car has WhiteLine rear camber bushings, isn't the guy that actually aligns your car. Lost in translation...)

 

I remember at a track day my Civic all of a sudden made clunk going into a right hand turn and under-steered like mad. Brought it in and the top hat camber plate bolts had come loose ( I had NOT done the last alignment, lol...). I knew it had to be one of two things, and sure enough it was. Got them roughly back in to place, tightened down, AND added a little torque to the other side! Back in the game, great track day. If alignment was still "voodoo" to me, I might of thrown my hands up and had it towed home.

 

Sidenote: what's up with those matching license plate frame and rear badge? Don't see that much on the west coast.

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Yes, 100% agree... although I don’t know how to change caster nor I don’t know if it’s possible???

 

And lmao I hate that you noticed the car dealer stickers. I literally removed the sticker yesterday. It gave me anxiety every time I saw it. Still need new front license plate frame, or one of those hot racer boy tow hook license plate mounts. It’s in the shopping cart but I don’t have a job because of COVID.

 

 

My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

Edited by ChrisJapan
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Howdy folks. These lowering threads are a lot to plow through… Anybody know if they are pics of any 05-09 Outbacks on JDM SpecB Bilstein take-offs in here (struts/shocks/springs), probably with saggy butt spacers in back? That’s my plan, plus whatever it takes to get a decent rear alignment…

 

Thanks, Doug

Edited by dvancleve
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Howdy folks. These lowering threads are a lot to plow through… Anybody know if they are pics of any 05-09 Outbacks on JDM SpecB Bilstein take#offs in here (struts/shocks/springs), probably with saggy butt spacers in back? That’s my plan, plus whatever it takes to get a decent rear alignment…

 

Thanks, Doug

 

Here is some reading material for you (pics included):

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-lowered-outback-thread-v1-closed-180375.html?p=5377718&langid=3

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-lowered-outback-thread-v1-closed-180375p6.html?styleid=11

 

Most of us will tell you to grab LGT upper control arms and bump stops, a Whiteline Camber Correction Kit (KCA399), or some Whiteline adjustable arms (KTA124).

 

The UCAs and bump stops will allow you more travel in the rear so you don't bottom out. The camber correction kit will allow you to play around with your rear camber a little more. If you end up getting the adjustable front and rear arms in addition to the camber correction kit, you will have more adjustability with your toe and camber.

 

Dive through the above linked threads and see if you cannot find what you are looking for. Hope this helped.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Thanks Febreze Mee, good stuff on those pages. I started looking into this years ago, and the first couple guys I came across who did LGT wagon swaps told me all they did was swap out the OB stuff for the LGT wagon stuff (including bump stops). They said the rear height/level was good and no significant issues with alignment. Many since then have claimed Legacy upper control arms and the camber correction kit are required, some have said even the bushing kit won't allow stock alignment.

 

 

I just ordered a clean looking set of JDM SpecB revA (allegedly the stiffest version) and my current plan is to run those with Legacy bump stops and saggy butt spacers. I am not sure what thickness will be best for the spacers, may need to put it all together then measure (rather than just guessing). My understanding is the shocks/struts are all the same, the wagon springs are just a bit longer (but the same rate). Anybody know for sure what the best spacer thickness is to get a fairly level stance?

 

 

Thanks, Doug

 

 

P.S. Am I going bananas, or is everything here in German now?

Edited by dvancleve
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It's preference. 1/2" will probably give you a slightly raked stance that is level the second you have any weight in the truck. 3/8" will probably give you exactly level.

 

Outback's seem to be heavier in the rear than LGTs and typically need more spacer.

 

I have gone through a set-up that's similar to what you have, but years ago I bought an 1" spacer and 1/2" so all my setups just used what was available to me.

 

The 1/2" usually fit well with no spacer up front. But, I was always okay with a little rake.

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I bought a hot racer boy tow hook license plate mounts. Probably the stupidest $80 I have spent. But my front license plate is off to the side now. so #winning?

 

Haha thanks for the 2 cents! I found an image from your build (Damn, you have done a lot!!!) with the HRBTHLPM (hot racer boy tow hook license plate mount). I combed the internet, and I think you have the only photo of an Outback with a HRBTHLPM. Still undecided.

 

Shit, my account is in German now and I don't know why.

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Sorry guys! I linked a page with a different theme set up and it was in German.

 

In order to fix this you can go to Google Chrome settings (the gear icon in the top right under the '[X]') > more tools > developer tools > application tab > cookies > right click on legacygt.com > clear cache. This will log you out, so you will have to log in again.

 

For a quick fix (applies to PC and mobile):

 

Scroll to bottom of page > observe two drop down menu tabs > change the one on the left to "LegactGT.com v3.0" > change the one on the right from "Deutsch (Du)" to "English (US)."

 

EDIT: I should have started with this https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/site-display-troubles-moderatorsi-anyonei-281575.html

Edited by Febreze Mee

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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It's preference. 1/2" will probably give you a slightly raked stance that is level the second you have any weight in the truck. 3/8" will probably give you exactly level.

 

Outback's seem to be heavier in the rear than LGTs and typically need more spacer.

 

The 1/2" usually fit well with no spacer up front. But, I was always okay with a little rake.

 

Thanks :) Just to clarify, I will be getting JDM SpecB RevA Bilstein assemblies (so sedan?). Everything I read says the sedan rear springs are the same rate but a bit shorter. I’m thinking that points to 1/2” spacers? Realistically, we’re talking about an 1/8” spacer difference and I doubt anyone can see that or even accurately measure it with a tape measure…. Doug

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With oem sedan springs, I had a 1/4" spacer (I thought it was 3/8s until I measured it), and that was still a hair saggy. With the Tein HTech springs, it was even more saggy with the 1/4" and would droop a ton loaded up for family travel. I went with 3/4" and the public opinion was unanimous that it was better.

 

I think because of the wagon's shape, a little rake always looks better than saggy butt.

Edited by rebourne
i meant 3/4"
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With oem sedan springs, I had a 1/4" spacer (I thought it was 3/8s until I measured it), and that was still a hair saggy. With the Tein HTech springs, it was even more saggy with the 1/4" and would droop a ton loaded up for family travel. I went with 3/4" and the public opinion was unanimous that it was better.

 

I think because of the wagon's shape, a little rake always looks better than saggy butt.

 

Thanks! I suppose I should wait until I receive my Bilsteins and make sure everything is good, but it sounds like 1/2” spacers are a no brainer. A teeny bit of extra rake never looks terrible, but a teeny bit of extra sag might…

 

Doug

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just loaded up the car with 20 bags of soil and a 12’ x 26’ roll of astroturf and 2 people. I was nervous since I have the car lowered on coilovers, but it handled it much better than the stock suspension since I have the ability of turning the dampening all the way up. It took 800lbs of soil and the 80lbs of AstroTurf like a champ!

 

+1 for lowered outback

 

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My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

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  • 2 weeks later...

2008 Outback vs 2015+ WRX

 

Happened to be the only parking spot in a 15 block radius, NYC PARKING!! I always get giddy when parking next to a Subaru fellow

 

Around 10 years difference of development and styling. I think Subaru can do better.

 

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My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

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