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Hey guys just picked up my new suby yesterday however it seems to have som e Issues . First off, to make it legal to sell they took it to a muffler shop and added a resonator after the cat and before the mufflers.... is that how the car is stock? When i first test drove it last week it didnt have this resonator and the car sounded like a wrx now its dead quiet which is fine for now... number two, in low rpms around 2k if im going up a hill or sometimes on flat ground, as i start to give it gas it will buck like its running out of gas a few times and then go???? Wtf.... and number 3 the power band is not smooth at all it has a couple dead spots where it almost seems the car is pullin massive amount of timing to protect it...again wtf? Do you think this could be something simple like spark plugs? Wrong grade of gas. Dirty air filter? Or something more serious? Not sure if it needs a tune or if it was tuned before and the adding of resonator messed it up? Thank u guys in advande for the help.... oh and stock psi was just below 1 bar in most gears
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First off its common for dealers to repair or replace modified exhausts. Second of all take it to someone you trust to look at it, (they can check all fluids and filters and look for any more mods or previous areas been worked on), and should be able to tell you if it has factory tune if its a good shop, before you bought it. Was there a CEL on? The cars OE map does have some imperfections in it, I notice mine over 4.5k more than any where else. But they may have put regular fuel in it if they didnt know any better. Do you have a code reader any pending codes? do some research and get us some logs and we can tell whats going on.

In the meantime, bring it back and express your concerns to whom you purchased it from before its too late.

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These cars have a habit of a stumble.

 

First thing you can try is pull the negative battery cable for 15 minutes, that will reset the ECU. The car will take about 15 seconds of cranking before it starts, that's normal.

 

Or you can leave the key on the on position for that time before you start it and it will start normal, I have heard.

 

Get the car to a Tuner and have them street tune the car. Read in the Tuning Forum here and learn about the cables for your lap top or buy a Cobb AP v2.

 

Some of us put two washers between the Y pipe and muffler flanges to give it more sound.

 

You may also want to buy a can of MAF sensor cleaner and clean it before the tune.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Ok thank you both a lot for the lightning quick responses. This forum is like have a live help agent at all times. Dealer plates on car till check clears wednesday so if its a big issue i dont have to keep it.. i will try everything you guys said except for the tuning part, no left over money for that yet lol, i really hope its something simple because i really love this car, thanks again guys
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Is the maf at the top of the airbox at the rear of the box? Where the harness clips into.

 

That appears to be the maf but it doesnt look like a maf im familiar with. My old evo had a honeycomb style inside it this doesnt seem to have any area to clean? Is the lil bulb looking thing the part that needs to be cleaned? Sorry for the newb question

 

Edit ok cleaned the maf will re install when dry and see if that helped

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The 07-09 cars seem to get the stumble worse from what i have seen and its not just the cruise stumble, its during acceleration like you mentioned. This is normally 100% remidied with a custom tune.

 

Stock boost target is 13.5psi

 

I would definatly take it to a trusted mechanic in the first few days for a checkup since the dealer can miss quite a bit.

 

Congrats on the new car and they can be fun.

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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Did you buy the car as a modified car or stock? How much did you pay?

 

If it is billed as a stock car, I would bring it back, there seems to be some kind of tune on it which my guess is a result of this car being modified and returned to stock to trade in.

 

There should have been an oem resonator after the DP before the Y pipe. If they brought it to a muffler shop they probably welded in some other resonator.

 

I wouldn't necessarily go out and get an aftermarket tune to fix a problem on an OEM car.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

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Paid 14.9k for it 69k miles. Bought it at a toyota place so they wouldnt know if it was tuned or not. The resonator is A foot after the heatshield in the middle of the car, i, assumimg the cat is under the heat shield. It is before the y pipe, previously it was a straight pipe w no res after the cat, what u think i should do? I still have dealer plates till wednesday, then, i sign and finalize everything
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Paid 14.9k for it 69k miles. Bought it at a toyota place so they wouldnt know if it was tuned or not. The resonator is A foot after the heatshield in the middle of the car, i, assumimg the cat is under the heat shield. It is before the y pipe, previously it was a straight pipe w no res after the cat, what u think i should do? I still have dealer plates till wednesday, then, i sign and finalize everything

 

That seems odd. The cat is actually in the downpipe, that heat shield in the middle should be the stock resonator if my memory serves me correct.

 

Personally, I would walk away from it if you can, plenty of stock cars out there. Additionally if you decide to keep it I would get a compression test done ASAP before signing off on it.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/so-your-lgt-clean-ehhhhhi-show-off-underside-61867.html

 

I believe that is the stock underside on the rolled over car.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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Ok the second heat shield that is towards the back of my car was removed and thats where the resonator was put on, so im assumimg that the heat shield covers a resonator in that spot? Meaning theres supposed to be a resonator in that spot?i was hoping it was put on in error and thats what was givimg me the issues
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Took it back to dealership today and they scheduled me an appointment w subaru for next monday,this actually makes me feel better because they will certainly find out what the issue is and not on my dime. This is why u dont buy a suby at toyota, seriously shame on me
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U think so? It stumbles so bad at low rpms sometimes and the only way to make.it stop is to hammer it lol. Its almost like a clogged fuel filter or something? Its like I'm running out of gas but not that extreme

Frustrating none the less

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U think so? It stumbles so bad at low rpms sometimes and the only way to make.it stop is to hammer it lol. Its almost like a clogged fuel filter or something? Its like I'm running out of gas but not that extreme

Frustrating none the less

 

That is NOT tune related, the specific studder i refer to is during cruise and hard acceleration around 4k.

 

That sounds like a vac leak ir something else....hopefully they can get it all fixed up for ya.

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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U think so? It stumbles so bad at low rpms sometimes and the only way to make.it stop is to hammer it lol. Its almost like a clogged fuel filter or something? Its like I'm running out of gas but not that extreme

Frustrating none the less

 

My car stumbles and studders at low RPM going up hills too, and this is with a stage 2 tune.

 

The remedy is to downshift and get those revs up in the boost range. Remember this is a puny 2.5 litre engine and will behave like one (read: no power) when it's out of boost.

 

The LGT likes to be revved. It's an older design and not like a Volkswagen TDi or a newer turbo BMW which make 80% of their torque at low revs.

 

These cars need to be up around 3K rpm to get anywhere in a hurry. Like up a hill.

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A lot of it sounds like the craptastic stock tune.

 

I highly doubt that a stock tune would cause these issues.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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This is a great thread. OP, here is what I found helped me. Your car has 69k miles, and mine was right at 60k miles when I bought mine. Change the spark plugs, that could very well be the culprit. I had jerkiness, and what seemed like hesitation if I was in 2nd at 20 mph and floored it. I also had it if I slowly let the clutch out in first and then went full throttle. It would start, seem to hiccup, and finally as it got going it would get better. If I just flat out flogged it, it wouldn't be so bad. I changed my plugs (which I planned to do anyway just didn't get to it immediately as I bought the car) and it's much better.

 

The second thing I did was use seafoam to break up some carbon build up and put some in my gas tank (1/3 can goes through induction and 2/3 in the gas tank). This has helped to further smooth out the idle and drive.

 

Still, even after all of that, when I floor it and it builds boost it seems to have that one dead spot. It's much, much better than before, but still has it and now I see that the factory tune can be the culprit for that. At least now it's much smoother. I guess this is because of the stock tune issue??? I'll be stage 2.5 in a few months so hopefully the tune takes care of it.

 

I would have the dealership change those plugs, it's pretty critical on turbo cars to have good plugs. I plan on changing mine every 45k.

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I highly doubt that a stock tune would cause these issues.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

 

maybe my butt dyno is a little more sensitive :shrug:

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This is a great thread. OP, here is what I found helped me. Your car has 69k miles, and mine was right at 60k miles when I bought mine. Change the spark plugs, that could very well be the culprit. I had jerkiness, and what seemed like hesitation if I was in 2nd at 20 mph and floored it. I also had it if I slowly let the clutch out in first and then went full throttle. It would start, seem to hiccup, and finally as it got going it would get better. If I just flat out flogged it, it wouldn't be so bad. I changed my plugs (which I planned to do anyway just didn't get to it immediately as I bought the car) and it's much better.

 

The second thing I did was use seafoam to break up some carbon build up and put some in my gas tank (1/3 can goes through induction and 2/3 in the gas tank). This has helped to further smooth out the idle and drive.

 

Still, even after all of that, when I floor it and it builds boost it seems to have that one dead spot. It's much, much better than before, but still has it and now I see that the factory tune can be the culprit for that. At least now it's much smoother. I guess this is because of the stock tune issue??? I'll be stage 2.5 in a few months so hopefully the tune takes care of it.

 

I would have the dealership change those plugs, it's pretty critical on turbo cars to have good plugs. I plan on changing mine every 45k.

 

Hopefully its as simple as that, thanks for your input. Like i said the dealer i got the car from is takimg it to subaru on monday,i would think they would change the plugs and check other things as well. Since subaru didnt sell me the car, they have nothing to lose by putting time,money,and new parts into her until she runs like normal right?

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