Nick's '05 SWP Wagon - Project LGT Re-mastered

Hey Everyone!

 

I've been a long time lurker here and I figured now is a better time to actually document my build that I've dubbed "Project LGT Re-mastered"

 

This wagon is actually my 2nd Legacy, my first one being an AT Sedan.

 

Background:

 

I first purchased my 1st Legacy in January of 2015. It was a 2007 DGM 5EAT Limited. I bought it from a mom/pop dealership out in VA. My intent was to use it as a DD since I wanted to keep the mileage on my BRZ somewhat low. I bought it cheap ($3500) for the main reason that the dealership said it needed a new turbo. I didn't know much about the Legacy back then, but long and behold, instead of a blown turbo, it was actually a burnt exhaust valve, cylinder 4. Go figure.

 

Long story short, I learned almost everything I know about the Legacy on that sedan. From wiring, to suspension tuning. I've done the head gasket twice in-car (first one failed because I reused the headbolts). The previous owner actually modded the car somewhat decently. He upgraded the turbo to the BNR 16G, Perrin intercooler, 750cc injectors, HexMods F1' 5EAT Valve Body and other supporting mods. After moving to California for school, I got the car re-tuned for 91-pump gas and made 273 at the wheels. Bad news struck last year May 2018. I got involved in 4 car accident and the sedan was deemed total.

 

Now:

 

By some struck of luck, while browsing craigslist, I came upon a 2005 SWP 5MT Wagon. At that time, it had been listed for at least 30 days. I called the guy and he said it was available. I made a deposit immediately. 2 Weeks passed by and I took it home. Here she is along with some pics of the sedan.

Edited February 27, 2019 by jfsn06

I've come to learn with the legacy that sometimes you can't always get what you want right away. For the wagon, this was the beige interior. Even worse, it didn't age well and it was badly worn.

 

The solution: Strip my DGM Sedan of its black leather interior and swap everything. Even then, it was far from good because the main issue of swapping from sedan to wagon: the upper rear folding seat. It stayed tan.

This tan folding seat had me in a frenzy. I can be a bit OCD at times but I believe it was the hunt for a rear black seat that got me so involved with the wagon. After waiting patiently and some $$$, I was able to source a black folding seat. To make it even better, it was the reclinable perforated alcantara inserts with red stitching from the JDM tuned by STI.

 

The bad: I was now addicted. After being exposed to all the JDM bits, I became obsessed with getting everything to match. How fortunate for this wagon.

Edited February 27, 2019 by jfsn06

While trying to imagine all the things I needed for an all black conversion, I thought that i would start with things that I've always dreamt of doing on the sedan. Flat-bottom steering wheel, Doube-DIN upgrade and rare cubby STI triple gauge pack made from Defi.

 

One thing to note is the JDM triple-gauge pack angles to the right side as some of you may know. I don't know how but somehow I mustered up the courage to take it apart to see if I could flip it someway. I'll be posting a write-up on how to do it but lets just say that i'm thankful for Japanese engineering.

Edited February 27, 2019 by jfsn06

Last August I began really learning about Yahoo Auctions and Crooober. While browsing crooober I stumbled upon some STI seats. I first saw them on valleylegacy's build and then on WRXUSA. To my luck, they are black inserts and also red stitching to match the rear seats. I actually can't thank enough the people that have shared all the wonderful things that can be done to the legacy.

Edited February 27, 2019 by jfsn06

Welcome! This is getting interesting, and quickly. Nice setup so far!

Are you planning on getting the black JDM trunk side (and floor) panels so that you can also get the adjustable brackets for the rear seat recline?

thanks legacybt. It has been really exciting building this car. I almost regret not posting up a bulld as soon as i got the car. I've had to be really patient in acquiring all the parts that i've wanted.

 

Welcome! This is getting interesting, and quickly. Nice setup so far!

Yup! Well actually, I've had the parts sitting in the trunk for a couple of months now. But I can't even describe how difficult it was for me to get them. The only pieces left that I need to get are the floor boards but shipping is so expensive! Almost as much as the rear seats themselves. I got the rear side trims almost right after I got the seats, but for a while I was missing the reclining brackets/mechanism and the springs that pull the seats up when you press on the recline button. I probably waited almost 3 months with constant perusing of yahoo auctions to find those parts. It's almost as difficult as sourcing out the EDM LHD console, partly because part numbers were hard to find and vague.

 

On a side note, I test fitted the JDM rear side panels and it seems like the drivers side is a really snug fit. I was comparing it with the USDM one and it looks like the area that protrudes in the wheel well area is shorter than the USDM causing it not to sit flush. I wonder if the 2005 USDM chassis is different. How did yours fit like?

 

Are you planning on getting the black JDM trunk side (and floor) panels so that you can also get the adjustable brackets for the rear seat recline?

So these went in yesterday:) I'm really curious how the STI rack with solid U-joint will feel compared to the stock one. I also cleaned the engine bay today.

I've been hoarding engine parts for the last 5 months and I think i'm finally ready to start building the engine tonight. The heads and the block finally came back from the machine shop and they look so pretty.

 

I've got my workbench all nice and organized

Here are all the parts that I'm hoping to install in the next couple of weeks.

Nice, looks like quite the stockpile of parts. You should list them out in the first post. Also not sure if you knew this but there is a USDM/left hand drive version of the STI gauge pack where they're angled to the left and the STI symbol is in the bottom right corner. Impressive none-the-less.

 

Reminds me that I should start a build thread. I've compiled all pictures I have so far into a folder but nothing else.

On a side note, I test fitted the JDM rear side panels and it seems like the drivers side is a really snug fit. I was comparing it with the USDM one and it looks like the area that protrudes in the wheel well area is shorter than the USDM causing it not to sit flush. I wonder if the 2005 USDM chassis is different. How did yours fit like?

 

I noticed the same thing. I had to remove one of the vertical “ribs” and some of the padding. Once those are on you’ll notice that USDM floor panels don’t fit. Arnold, aka valleylegacy, also got the rear seat release buttons working on those panels. I have the harness connection but they need a relay to work correctly and wiring ain’t my thing.

Looks like this will be another fantastic SWP wagon. Like everything about it.

nice built !

I was looking at the wiring and it seems like the switch only has two wires. I'm gonna take a wild guess that one is power and one connects to the actual release motors on the rear seats, which would mean that the 2nd wire coming from the seats is ground. Or it could be reversed and power goes straight to the seats and the switch completes the ground. Hopefully once I'm done with the short block i'll have some time to get a multimeter and see how things are wired up.

 

I noticed the same thing. I had to remove one of the vertical “ribs” and some of the padding. Once those are on you’ll notice that USDM floor panels don’t fit. Arnold, aka valleylegacy, also got the rear seat release buttons working on those panels. I have the harness connection but they need a relay to work correctly and wiring ain’t my thing.

Start a build thread too! I'll start compiling a parts list once I've started putting them in the car. I've been so pre-occupied with my short block build and its taking all my time lol. I've been trying to be really meticulous about the motor since there's so many parts being thrown on there and I can't afford a small mistake.

 

On a side note, I've wanted the USDM version of the gauge pack but its so hard to come by, and when it does, its sometimes not complete or the seller is asking an arm and limb for it. I got lucky purchasing it from Japan at 3/4 the retail cost and it was complete will all the harness and even the single DIN cubby trim.

 

Nice, looks like quite the stockpile of parts. You should list them out in the first post. Also not sure if you knew this but there is a USDM/left hand drive version of the STI gauge pack where they're angled to the left and the STI symbol is in the bottom right corner. Impressive none-the-less.

 

Reminds me that I should start a build thread. I've compiled all pictures I have so far into a folder but nothing else.

Thanks madrig! your build has been one of my inspirations.

 

nice built !

I thought I had the only black/red stitching Tuned by STI seats in States. Guess that isn’t true anymore. I need to figure out those rear buttons as well. Six speed in the future? I’d highly recommend it.

So update, I spent my weekend putting together the short-block together. I had a small hiccup because the machine shop forgot to put the alignment dowels on the block and I couldn't align the head gasket and the head. Luckily, a nearby dealership had them in stock and I was able to get the dowels the next day.

 

For those that might be curious, the motor is a full build.

 

Bottom End:

-Wiseco Forged Pistons 99.5 8.9:1 Compression Ratio

-Manley H-Beam Rods

-Polished and balanced STI Crank

-King Bearing

-Total Seal Rings

-Line-bored block

-ARP headstuds/case-half bolts/rod bolts

-11mm STI Oil Pump

 

Heads:

-GSC S2 Cams 272/272

-GSC Beehive Springs w/Titanium Retainers

-GSC Brass Valve Guides

-Supertech Nitrided Intake Valves 36mm

-Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves 32mm

-Port and polish

-5 angle valve job

 

We're gonna try to go for an 8000rpm build, which is why we chose the 272 cams. On the other end of the spectrum we don't want the power band to shift too much to the left so we stayed with regular sized valves and upped the compression a little bit. Hopefully my choice of the 1.5xtr 10cm2 will be a good pairing and allow a pretty decent spool-up and still hold till redline. Well, I hope at least.

 

Here's a view of those beehive springs and titanium retainers

Edited February 27, 2019 by jfsn06

Twinning! The seats are so awesome! Actually, the first pair I had were like WRX USA's. It had the grey inserts and white stitching. But it really bugged me because it didn't really match the rear seats the bolsters were really beat up. At first to try and offset it, I bought a grey alcantara center console lid from the one of the JDM TBSTI but it still didn't flow well(its for sale btw). I was browsing on crooober for some parts for my BRZ and I ran across it. Before that time, I didn't even know they had the black insert red stitching. Even better that it was cheaper, shipping was cheaper and it was in better condition. Definitely one of my fav mods in the car.

 

I'm really hoping so. I don't know which trans to get. I wanna say I want the longer Forester STI gearing but at the same time i don't know how the power band will be affected. Also I need to save up for the biggest BBK. I think the power this car will put out might just be too much for me. The wagon was suppose to replace my BRZ as the DD, but now its just all out. I guess the BRZ is just a better daily anyway:p

 

I'll keep everyone posted if I get any other info. I'm trying to ask my friend in Japan to see if he can get me the JDM wiring diagram. I really wish we had all these options.

 

I thought I had the only black/red stitching Tuned by STI seats in States. Guess that isn’t true anymore. I need to figure out those rear buttons as well. Six speed in the future? I’d highly recommend it.

More stuff to add to the parts list that I haven't made yet lol.

So last night I was able to re-torque the heads after letting it sit for a day. Did the valve lash and got the buckets and journals all nicely lubed. Also put these pretty cams in.

Don't know if anyone else does this when sealing the front cam caps, but i've found that it helps keep the oil passages from getting clogged from too much sealant. I've done this on 10 motors now and not one has ever leaked.

 

I tape up around the dowel alignment pin. There's a small space next to the dowel to allow just the right amount of sealant without it flowing to the oil passage

Edited February 27, 2019 by jfsn06