What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Correct. I’d avoid anything over 235/40 or maybe 245/35/18. I had 245/40/18 and they took a ton of work to fit (roll,pull, front camber plates) they were also heavy and killed the steering response. I’m much happier with 235/40/18. Note that tire make/model has a huge impact on some of these points.

+1 on 235/40/18 being a great tire size.

 

Zero/minimal work to make everything fit. I haven't had the need to roll or pull fenders. Front camber is under -2 degrees. I do have lowering camber plates from RCE.

 

First set being Hankook V12s, UHP tire. Second set now being Michelin 4, all season tire. Between both sets, my wheels remained 18x8 but offset went from +48 to +44. The only suspension change from the wheel / tire change was the need to raise the car 1/4in due to tire rub. Easy fix in my opinion and should not be an issue on stock ride height.

Agreed, 235 width is the most ideal fitment on our cars.

 

Only thing I have to add is if you want performance over looks, move to a lightweight 17" wheel. I don't love the style of my OZ wheels, but at 15.5lbs a corner and paired with a good 235/45/17 tire, the performance trade off is unreal.

Currently running 225/40/18s and think my next set will be 235s. That extra 4mm of sidewall has got to help with the ride quality at least a little bit. Should also fill out the wheel well a little better

235/40/18s FTW

 

Edited January 20, 2022 by Febreze Mee

Currently running 225/40/18s and think my next set will be 235s. That extra 4mm of sidewall has got to help with the ride quality at least a little bit. Should also fill out the wheel well a little better

 

Same, I want to go 235/40/18 on my next cycle.

Why does my brain keep wanting to do 8.5" or 9" wide wheels on the wagon? I know they're a pita to fit and require more work than I really want to do. Someone smack me through the internet and tell me to stick to 8" wide wheels.

 

 

Running ADVAN RCII, 18x8.5, +40 ET, @16.5 lbs each

 

 

 

Agreed, 235 width is the most ideal fitment on our cars.

 

Only thing I have to add is if you want performance over looks, move to a lightweight 17" wheel. I don't love the style of my OZ wheels, but at 15.5lbs a corner and paired with a good 235/45/17 tire, the performance trade off is unreal.

 

Currently running 225/40/18s and think my next set will be 235s. That extra 4mm of sidewall has got to help with the ride quality at least a little bit. Should also fill out the wheel well a little better

 

 

Ran 225/40ZRx17 (stock wheels) and 18 (on 18x8 Volk GTV +46 ET) and now run 235/40ZRx18 MPS AS4es on the ADVANs. You do need camber control front and rear. I'm dropped 1.25" and camber is set to -1.5° F and -.75° R and 0° toe F/R.

Agreed, 235 width is the most ideal fitment on our cars.

 

Only thing I have to add is if you want performance over looks, move to a lightweight 17" wheel. I don't love the style of my OZ wheels, but at 15.5lbs a corner and paired with a good 235/45/17 tire, the performance trade off is unreal.

 

 

Ran 17 forged lightweights at autox, noticeable difference in acceleration and deceleration.

Glad to hear to from you SBT!

Glad to hear to from you SBT!

I know that going from the 18" 2-piece Volks (@20 lbs each) and 225/40ZR MPS ASes, to the ADVANS with 235/40ZR MPS AS4es, the acceleration was immediately noticeable, and 5he wheel/tire response was definitely improved, even with a wider wheel and lower offset. My wife even commented about how much quicker and smoother it was with the new wheel/tire combo. No rolling required and only slight burp on heavy compressions while turning, at the front. Not even enough to burr the fender edge.

Wish I had the budget for some light forged wheels. Best I’ve ever used were RPF-1s, which are decently light for the size. I’m kinda over the split 6 spoke look, though.

Wish I had the budget for some light forged wheels. Best I’ve ever used were RPF-1s, which are decently light for the size. I’m kinda over the split 6 spoke look, though.

 

 

I dunno, if you patient they do come up for sale in Wheels and Tires forum. Here is the thread when I was trying to sell mine for iirc $250 picked up. No takers.

 

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ri-kosei-racing-k1-ts-forged-17-inch-rims-284962.html

 

 

Similar thread about the same time guy sold identical set for $400.

 

 

 

I kept these and couldn't be happier. Wait and and you'll find your set.

Anybody running this uppipe? I don't recognize the brand.. Price is good though, maybe too good?

My Invidia is cracked..

 

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283214379564?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D994c46da2b0a4d14ab77ed8df8623644%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D313702317369%26itm%3D283214379564%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A305dfd53-7b0d-11ec-99b2-e6101423329a%7Cparentrq%3A7ed9d36b17e0ab97d1d4a286fffd0a26%7Ciid%3A1

Anybody running this uppipe? I don't recognize the brand.. Price is good though, maybe too good?

My Invidia is cracked..

 

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283214379564?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D994c46da2b0a4d14ab77ed8df8623644%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D313702317369%26itm%3D283214379564%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A305dfd53-7b0d-11ec-99b2-e6101423329a%7Cparentrq%3A7ed9d36b17e0ab97d1d4a286fffd0a26%7Ciid%3A1

 

Looks like Megan knock-off (which may be a knock-off of another)...

Anybody running this uppipe? I don't recognize the brand.. Price is good though, maybe too good?

My Invidia is cracked..

 

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283214379564?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D994c46da2b0a4d14ab77ed8df8623644%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D313702317369%26itm%3D283214379564%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A305dfd53-7b0d-11ec-99b2-e6101423329a%7Cparentrq%3A7ed9d36b17e0ab97d1d4a286fffd0a26%7Ciid%3A1

 

 

<Cough> Used OEM STI uppipe <Cough>

<Cough> Used OEM STI uppipe <Cough>

 

I thought about that option but afraid of loosing some spool.

I thought about that option but afraid of loosing some spool.

 

 

Why?

Mother

 

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Yeah, you're in the hole deep. One thing I'd recommend is fashioning some dowels for reinstalling the manifold. Made that process a bajillion times easier. These are the passenger side dowels circled, with the manifold having been seated.

 

So it goes like this:

- Buy 4 pretty long bolts. I can't remember off the top of my head, but maybe 6 inches minimum. Also can't remember the exact thread measurement. Maybe m10x1.5? Take one of the manifold to head bolts with you to the store.

- Cut the head of the bolts off

- Use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a notch into the now top of the bolt.

- Position these 4 studs into the heads to guide the manifold down. Two per head. They don't need to bottom out in the head, just a few threads to keep them steady.

- Once the manifold is down (don't forget the gaskets!) install the other two manifold-head bolts, and unscrew the studs with a narrow regular screw driver. Use a magnet to pick the studs up fully out of the manifold. Install the remaining two bolts per side. Immediately start car and do wheelies for days.

 

I was terrified of mangling the head-tgv gaskets when I was fixing my fuel lines. This ensured the manifold went straight down, and completely lined up with the head bolt holes. I still needed to finagle the manfiold assembly past a few hoses and harnesses, but even that wasn't that bad knowing I had the guide dowels waiting.

Edited January 24, 2022 by seanyb505

Dowels without the manifold installed.

 

I made a new set of adapter wires for the turn/running lights for my second set of jdm headlights.

Yeah, you're in the hole deep. One thing I'd recommend is fashioning some dowels for reinstalling the manifold. Made that process a bajillion times easier. These are the passenger side dowels circled, with the manifold having been seated.

[ATTACH]294963[/ATTACH]

 

So it goes like this:

- Buy 4 pretty long bolts. I can't remember off the top of my head, but maybe 6 inches minimum. Also can't remember the exact thread measurement. Maybe m10x1.5? Take one of the manifold to heaed bolts with you to the store.

- Cut the head of the bolts off

- Use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a notch into the now top of the bolt.

- Position these 4 studs into the heads to guide the manifold down. Two per head. They don't need to bottom out in the head, just a few threads to keep them steady.

- Once the manifold is down (don't forget the gaskets!) install the other two manifold-head bolts, and unscrew the studs with a narrow regular screw driver. Use a magnet to pick the studs up fully out of the manifold. Install the remaining two bolts per side. Immediately start car and do wheelies for days.

 

I was terrified of mangling the head-tgv gaskets when I was fixing my fuel lines. This ensured the manifold went straight down, and completely lined up with the head bolt holes. I still needed to finagle the manfiold assembly past a few hoses and harnesses, but even that wasn't that bad knowing I had the guide dowels waiting.

Wow that's great advise , thank you.

 

Ya I'm in deep new TGV's, rails , injectors , all gasket and hoses are on the list, as well as turbo inlet

 

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

I made a new set of adapter wires for the turn/running lights for my second set of jdm headlights.

 

Where did you find the connectors and pins?

Where did you find the connectors and pins?

I buy everything from 1 of 4 places:

 

Eastern Beaver

Cycle Terminal

Corsa Technic

Ballenger Motorsports