Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

Ordered these led H3 fog light bulbs off amazon for like 18 bucks. I think I am going to change all my lights to led, interior etc. Anyone know what bulbs we need for what? Do they make headlight led's as well? Lighting on my car sucks ass, both the headlights and interior lights suck.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QZ58NS4

 

My turbo coolant tank, one injector wire and passenger cam wire broke during my tgv adventure. Other injector was just barely hanging on. Old cam wire, I butchered and crazy glued to get it to work while new one was in the mail. I had previously ordered a new set of injector wires so those were on deck luckily. New wires and coolant tank!

 

 

 

 

Edited January 14, 2022 by Tehnation

Busted fog light bulbs. Old tank, gorilla glued it back on in case I break the new one down the line, good to have something at least just in case. To pull fog lights you need a flat head screwdriver to pop out the front panel and 10mm socket/wrench to unbolt two bolts on the bottom. You probably need to pull the bottom liners as well to access the 2 bolts, don't have any on my car atm, so they are right there.

 

 

Edited January 14, 2022 by Tehnation

Also got a new grimmspeed air filter

 

The old one just looked like blah! New one is pink/red versus this drab gray color. Also like how the new style has a lip inside so it slides on only a certain amount. Older style you can slide the tube all the way in way past the 1" max point stated in installation instructions, can't see that in the pictures though.

 

 

 

The red color is likely the oil they use. You may want to keep an eye on your MAF. Oil can cause issues. Looking good. Get some miles on it.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

The grey filter is their dry filter and the red is their oiled filter.

That old filter just needs some oil.

My grey filter looked like the new filter when it was new.

All hell broke loose! p0340, and the same 3 misfires came randomly, battery died... wtf!

 

I went for a drive, everything was good. Then while idling in my driveway car died, codes came up, battery couldn't start the car.

 

So gotta diagnose tomorrow sigh.... Not sure if its the new connector, the sensor or electrical. But it looks like that sensor or something crapping out is causing the misfires.

Not sure if the plug came loose or what, clip doesn't seem to hold well or the nub on the sensor is worn because I can pretty much tug it off even though it clicks and locks on. So I wrapped over the shrink tubing with electrical tape, in case the tubing has a hole or something and when it got hot some kind of electrical magic happened. Basically more insulation.

 

Battery probably died cause car died while heated seats, fan, radio(amps) etc. were still on., plus its cold as hell outside.

 

Will take it for a drive later on in the day when it hopefully warms up.

Gee, good luck.

Man, you sure have had a battle lol. Still rootin for yah!

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

So I put on wheel spacers on the rear 25mm. Now the car seems to drive differently, not sure if its just me. Seems to turn in much sharper, like oversteer. Anyone know about this stuff? Not complaining, i like it, but on the highway the rear end seemed to want to spin out. I need an alignment.... Edited January 16, 2022 by Tehnation

All I can say is, you have moved the center of the wheel outboard. So like a longer lever, it will be easier to move.

So damn close.... no more random misfire pending codes or p0000. Crossing my fingers for this evap test, which is taking so many damn miles, ive driven like over 50 miles already and its still being a pita.

 

Put 250 miles on the motor so far, 750 more before dyno.

 

Please god and baby jesus, just let this damn evap test finish already.

VICTORY!!!!!!

 

THE SUBARU GODS HAVE GIVEN ME THEIR BLESSINGS!!!!!

 

I passed inspection.

 

Guess what..... in NY you can still pass an inspection with 1 test not ready for 2001 and up, and 2 for older cars.....

 

So this entire time I been wasting my time waiting for the evap test........

 

Meh still needed a windshield and to get rid of the tints and my windshield was only changed last week Thursday so, not to bad but fyi for you NYers or other states, check the rules to make sure your not driving aimlessly like myself.

Tranny mount is shot, now that I have time to nitpick things lol.

 

Been wondering where the weird bucking came from when I was driving and shifting. Engine mounts are new, everything else is poly, so I jacked up the car and took a look. My tranny mount is in 2 pieces. Not sure when I replaced it, but I think that was one of the 1st things bushing I changed when I got the car...... damnit I hope this is a cheap part....

Hmmm maybe I lied.

 

The parts circled in red are the questionable areas, the green circled parts are good. Are those supposed to be connected? Found a random pic, not my actual parts.

 

Edited January 20, 2022 by Tehnation

I think yours is correct but it still may have seen better days. I could be wrong but that top part is separated.

 

I went with Group N engine mounts and pitch stop and I feel a bunch of vibes now. I expected some but I should probably scope the tranny mount out.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Maybe I need to learn to shift this thing better or possibly those rear differential bushings.

 

Vacuum leaks are the bane of my existence....

 

On another note, I'm really curious what upgrading cams vs turbo will yield. People say its not worth it or the thing to do, but I was rebuilding my heads anyway so the springs and cams were the only extra cost, I think BC gave me a sweet deal on the cams as well because they didn't have the stage 3 billet cams, and I was annoying them for months, I think I may have paid like 675 maybe, plus the springs for another like 200-300 dollars. Not really sure, My early posts have the right numbers. I just looked I actually paid 600 for cams and 220 for the springs/retainers.

 

So far I haven't gone over like 5 psi of boost, and the car is still fun to drive, no boost in 1st or 2nd and I'm still having a blast driving it. The drop/increase in the vacuum from the bigger cams seems to delay the turbo (might be tune as well), which works in my favor cause I want it on the bigger end. My original goal was to have power curve still be positive up until 7500-8000 rpm. So far it looks like its possible, and the power band is going to move to the right, while still allowing me to cruise and putz around at 2k-3k. Cams are giving me plenty of low end normal driving power. 3rd-5th gear are bananas even with 5 to maybe 7 psi, Ive been using my mechanical gauge not the AP readings so I gotta log some stuff.

 

So the putzing around at low rpms is when I feel the bucking sometimes, so that might be what I'm experiencing.

 

Hopefully I rebuilt this longblock right..... who knows what i did right or wrong....

 

Its all about the dyno numbers! The saga continues!

Edited January 20, 2022 by Tehnation

These cams are awesome...... so much power with no boost!

 

datalog21.csv

 

datalog22.csv

 

datalog23.csv

 

datalog24.csv

 

Some "spirited" driving lol, I'm beating this thing like it owes me money! I don't think boost broke 10psi in logs, thats like 10+ psi left on the table! Can't wait!

 

What accessport/ecu boost readings do people normally get at peak boost?

Edited January 20, 2022 by Tehnation

Tranny mount, one of the first things I did in my wagon was install a STI rear tranny mount in Aug 2004. It made such a huge difference in how the driveline felt. That mount is still in the car at 301,000 miles.

 

I got it at the Wicked Big Meet when it was held at a ski area in MA.

Just FYI, I went looking for your cam specs just now and saw that your first post says "BC stage 3 BC0621," but searching for BC0621 turned up BC's stage 2 cams.

My heart dropped for second after reading your post lol! I had to double check my receipts. God I loved the days of no tax on online items....

 

Typo maybe, not sure. I have BC0622

 

Edited January 23, 2022 by Tehnation

Cool.

 

FWIW, I didn't really dig into how cams affect engines until well after I got that cams that I have. Knowing what I know now, I'm pretty sure I should have gone with stage 3.

 

The Subaru world thinks of it as a big cam, but the LS1 world would call it medium cam, and AVCS should make it possible for an Ej25 to make those cams behave like they're small under the conditions where large cams start to have drawbacks (low load, low RPM).

The AVCS definitely gives the car some manners, it idles like a normal/stock cam. I'm just wondering if I have low boost because of the tune or the cams are pulling in all that air. Edited January 23, 2022 by Tehnation