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unplugging maf fixes my issues, which means???


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I can't find much info online about tuning these cams which is why its hard to have any real reference point. No idea what is supposed to be what, and not many people on the forums change the cams, so there is a lot of gray area. For example I have no idea what the vacuum or manifold pressure should be....I just need an inspection so I can get it to the tuner, what a hassle. Once I get it there they can use wideband and dyno to figure out all the variables etc. But looks like my setup isn't really normal. Turbo might be too small for cams... who knows at this point!

 

Got 10 miles on it so far without any codes or pending codes so far so good! Hopefully I can get the emissions and o2 sensor ready before something goes wrong. So tired of sneaking around :rolleyes:

Edited by Tehnation
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So I got misfire on one side so far. Last time it was 3 cylinders, now I got 2, cylinder 1 and 3 only, so somethings up with passenger side. And seeing as how cylinder 2 isn't coming back for now I am going to assume its the tgv delete.

 

I'm going to just change the passenger tgv(I have a spare) and bottom gaskets all together. Thinking this plastic tgv crap might not be sealing properly or warping. Next time metal tgv deletes, the plastic deforms and you can't torque it down to much and when you do the plastic starts deforming and stretching.

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So I just went on a late night joy ride on the highway to put on some miles, looks like I really did get rid of the misfire on cylinder 2, still just 1 and 3 after about 45 miles and only one emissions test left, the O2 sensor. At this point I am getting different results and the issue is pointing towards the intake manifold atm.

 

And its not a real cel, I just periodically check for codes with the ap even though it hasn't triggered the cel lamp on dashboard. So like before its all just temporary or pending codes, but now its only one side(1 and 3) instead of 3 cylinders. Hard to test the intake manifold for vacuum/boost leaks cause it seems its random and not consistent and heat might play a role with this bullsh*t plastic tgv.

 

For now I am going to tighten the piss out of the passenger side tgv and then see if I can get the last emissions check to go ready without the cel coming on. If the cel comes on before its emissions ready then I will pull the intake manifold and replace the tgv and gaskets, and if it can get to emissions ready without the cel then...... i'll eventually get to changing the tgv lol, damnit looks like I should just change it regardless, but I just want that inspection asap just to be able to drive the car normally.

Edited by Tehnation
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Ive been a little busy, but this is all new to me, especially this engine tuning stuff, so its hard to figure out if the issue is the tune or mechanical.

 

I went back to the first tune I had where it was leaning out until I got a cel. It doesn't have any hesitation at all and drives normally. The new tune I got to try and correct that lean issue seems to be cutting out as soon as the AFR hits 11. something, like it won't go lower than 11.x and then the car just bucks and hesitates. It works fine however when I unplug the maf. One tune runs lean and the other can't hit an afr lower than 11.

 

I haven't done a new log with new intake manifold gaskets for either tune, so I will see whats going on there. I also installed a new oem maf, and ordered a new Grimmspeed air filter, the one I have seems dried up and deteriorated.

 

Haven't tried messing with the MAP.

 

Where was your vacuum leak?

 

Er, it seems I'm a bit late, but my leaks were at the vacuum ports between the intake runners (where the FPR is), and at the front of the manifold (MAP port). There was nothing connected to either port. I've since fixed those, but what you were describing seemed very similar to mine.

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Do you in fact have the larger orange seals between the intake and TGV's ? I can't believe you'd still have the old black one's.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I have orange seals. I'm thinking its the gaskets below that, I have 8mm spacers so 2 engine to tgv gaskets are needed. Thats just more crap that can leak so I am going to inspect that today. But pulling apart the intake manifold and changing those gaskets and retightening everything seemed to have fixed the cylinder 2 problem.
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And I broke the nozzle on the turbo reservoir..... just got back from dealership had to order a new one, should be at stealership tomorrow..... god hates me!

 

Plastic tgvs suck, i'm going to have to change them to aluminum or something cause I don't like the shape of the driver side tgv either, but its not throwing codes so another day when I can waste some money on 400 dollar aluminum tgv deletes :spin::mad::rolleyes:

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So cylinder 3 is nothing but a pita. Changed the 2 engine to tgv gaskets and the tgv for passenger side, but the seal on the 3rd cylinder is leaking when I pressurize the system, and pushing air out the bottom of tgv and the fuel injector port.... i'm done for the day before I smash this thing with a hammer..... pulled the intake manifold apart etc. only to still have a leak, I am nerd raging so hard right now. Its such a pita to get to the problem area, its right next to the turbo and all this crap so now I gotta redo everything again. woosah, wooooosah, woooooosah . I was so close to just grabbing gasket sealer and globbing it all over the damn tgv... woooosah, tomorrow is another day!

 

So after calming down I realized Ive been pressurizing the system with like 100+ psi, so I turned down my compressor to like 30 psi, and no leaks. I think I will drive it first to see whats up.

 

Actually I lied lol, I had a hose disconnected, still leaking at 30 psi so back into the engine we go.

Edited by Tehnation
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Understand your frustration...have a good dinner and try and sleep well.

 

I, for one, understand the love/hate relationship we have for these cars.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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When you run the tgv/manifold spacers the top gasket cant use the 2 pins/studs to align itself because the spacer takes up all the stud, so the top gasket between the spacer and bottom of the tgv kinda floats around..... such a pita. If I could get a longer stud that would make everything easier. So i'm going to loosen the tgv bolts, and try moving the gasket around to get it to seat better.
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If the leak still appears you might just buy a used oem top feed tgv and do the delete yourself. A grinding tool, tap, bolt and jbweld make it easy. I painted mine with high heat wrinkle paint and it looks good. Much cheaper than the spendy IAG billet deletes.
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I'm just wondering why my injector port is leaking air, not nearly as much as the tgv but a little air was coming out..... gotta figure out how to fix that, which seems more complicated than fixing the gasket. Going to try swapping injectors and maybe adding a gasket to get more compression. I used soapy water and pressurized the system to find out exactly where the air was escaping. Edited by Tehnation
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I'm just wondering why my injector port is leaking air..... gotta figure out how to fix that, which seems more complicated than fixing the gasket. Going to try swapping injectors and maybe adding a gasket to get more compression.
Can you post an updated picture of the setup?
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Let me know if you need something more specific, those are pictures of the problem area, cylinder 3 or closest cylinder to turbo.

 

Crazy glued the nozzle (bottom nozzle) back onto turbo coolant tank in case I had to move the car cause I am getting windshield replaced tomorrow. Damn gas station mechanic is being anal about everything, had to remove my tints, and now replace the windshield(can't blame him lol, crack is like over a foot long) just to get the inspection which If all else fails, then I am going to reset ecu so I can get the 10 day extension for emissions not being ready.

Edited by Tehnation
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Nothing jumps out on the images. Is that fuel on the cylinder head? I didn't realize the air leak you mentioned was fuel. I would pull that rail, replace injector orings (use permalube to grease) and reinstall.

 

When I did my top feed comversion I had to cut off the wiring harness clip on the cylinder 3 intake runner to make my rails fit. It looks close in your picture but doesn't appear to hit anything. When you install your turbo reservoir, does it hit anything on the rail and cause the rail or injector to move?

 

I also noti ed the bolts on the intake appear loose and assume you just hadn't tightened them yet.

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fuel and coolant mix. Fuel was from when I disconnected the injectors. Yea it seems air is coming out of the tgv-injector seal when I pressurize the system. The injector isn't completely sealing the tgv port. So fuel leaking out wouldnt be an issue more so the intake can pull in air.

 

My reservoir doesn't touch anything, it just hangs on the two stubs on the intake manifold.

 

I used the fuel rail from a top feed lgt, what did you use? lgt rail is meant to fit exactly with our setup so I had no issues, I just don't have some bracket thats used to bolt down the bottom of the reservoir.

 

I loosened up the bolts to wiggle gasket to get it to seat better, so I can just bolt it back down and pressure test easier and not have to remove my ic, and unbolt the other side of the intake manifold and etc. Got late and was getting to cold to sit outside so I just gave up there.

 

Also going to grab some seals from the stealership when I pickup new reservoir. Hopefully thats the issue.

Edited by Tehnation
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"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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My reservoir doesn't touch anything, it just hangs on the two stubs on the intake manifold.

 

I used the fuel rail from a top feed lgt, what did you use? lgt rail is meant to fit exactly with our setup so I had no issues, I just don't have some bracket thats used to bolt down the bottom of the reservoir.

 

My top feed tgvs are from a 08-14 wrx. I also bought the bracket for the coolant reservoir from the same generation wrx. The plastic tab interferes with that bracket which is why I cut it off.

 

It really seems that we've found your problem and it was a combination of hardware and tune related. The leaking tgv will absolutely cause misfires and fueling issues which were tried to be compensated by the tune.

 

The used tgv well was pretty dry on ebay. I did find a set of iag copy cats for $250. You really might switch out the plastic tgvs if you can and beat this once and for all.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125033774290

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Snowed last night into the morning, so nothing got done today. I did pick up the new reservoir, and 4 new injector o rings. Hopefully that fixes the injector leak.

 

I think the tgv I have will work as long as i get the gasket in the grooves on the bottom. It moved a millimeter or so after I loosened it, seems like it fell into the groove so as soon as the snow melts I will try torquing them down and pressure testing. Hopefully I can get it to seal properly and avoid buying anything atm.

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So I got restless, wiggling the gasket while lifting up the tgv fixed the leak, now its seated properly and no more bubbles from my soapy water. Now the only thing leaking is the cylinder 3 injector port, its cold as hell outside so thats a tomorrow thing, but at least one leak down.
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So I changed the injector seals on passenger side, but it seems a little tiny bit of air is still squeezing by on both ports 1 and 3. Cold as hell outside, maybe those seals need to heat up some to expand a little. Not sure why the injectors aren't sealing completely.

 

Went to start the car and cel! The camshaft wire got torn off...... now I am trying to pull this plug apart and resplice it. Ordered a new pigtail from iwire in the meantime in case this goes fubar.

 

The other 2 temp codes for misfire on 1 and 3 went away though. So thats good.

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