How many miles on your CVT? Any Issues?

My 2010 Limited has 72,000 miles, no problems so far.

 

You are very blessed lol, everyday in traffic I grit my teeth cuz I am so used to a normal tranny and these symptoms are that of a failing tranny. You may want to hit the dealer and let them drain and fill for you soon though. Some dealers are smart and realize that there is no such thing as a "lifetime" fluid

You are very blessed lol, everyday in traffic I grit my teeth cuz I am so used to a normal tranny and these symptoms are that of a failing tranny. You may want to hit the dealer and let them drain and fill for you soon though. Some dealers are smart and realize that there is no such thing as a "lifetime" fluid

 

Mine is a CPO vehicle, with the powertrain warrantied for 7 years/100,000 miles, so I've got some time to sort that out.

To let you know how the issue I described was resolved--the transmission valve body was replaced with a 3rd party re-manufactured one, and changed out by a local mechanic. No issues for several months now. Wife uses it for about 400 miles/week.

To let you know how the issue I described was resolved--the transmission valve body was replaced with a 3rd party re-manufactured one, and changed out by a local mechanic. No issues for several months now. Wife uses it for about 400 miles/week.

 

Really?! How much did it cost you, if you don't mind me asking... I'm in California, would you happen to be out here as well? haha Doesn't hurt to ask. This just sucks because I LOVE my car and this is literally the ONLY downfall to this dang car. I wish I had my manual tranny like I am used to, then it would just be clutch issues, so less worrisome for me.

Are there any guides to replacing the transmission valve body or is this something you have to literally tear into the tranny to do? Also, is that the name of the actual part????

I was lucky enough to get my CVT fluid changed due to the fact that the Valve Body had a solenoid failure. The fluid change plus the valve body replacement ran me $1800. Still paying that POS off.

And how much was the fluid cost of that?

You are very blessed lol, everyday in traffic I grit my teeth cuz I am so used to a normal tranny and these symptoms are that of a failing tranny. You may want to hit the dealer and let them drain and fill for you soon though. Some dealers are smart and realize that there is no such thing as a "lifetime" fluid

 

Be careful who changes the fluid. Dealers only! Getting the transmission fluid changed at a local shop is what destroyed our transmission. It took about a year before it was so bad it was un-drive able. An expensive lesson. There is a very specific fluid to put in and way to put it in.

Be careful who changes the fluid. Dealers only! Getting the transmission fluid changed at a local shop is what destroyed our transmission. It took about a year before it was so bad it was un-drive able. An expensive lesson. There is a very specific fluid to put in and way to put it in.

 

I'd add Subaru specializing independent shops to the list. There is one sorta close to me that uses all the right stuff and does a better job than dealers for half the cost.

I'd add Subaru specializing independent shops to the list. There is one sorta close to me that uses all the right stuff and does a better job than dealers for half the cost.

 

I agree here, I do the same here where I live.

 

Dealer shops get their customers for "free", independent shops need to work hard for their reputation.

Hey everyone, I've got 2010 Subaru Outback 2.5i with a CVT that apparently needs to be replaced. Just a little history- bought the car 5 months ago from the original owner, a coworker of mine. She put 65,000 miles on the car over 5 years driving what I'd say was roughly 70% in town and 30% highway with NO towing. This woman brought the car to a subaru dealership for every bit of recommended maintenance and service and paid top dollar to have her slightest concerns checked out. No issues with the car over this time.

 

I've put close to 5000 (mostly highway) miles on since buying the car. I recently towed a 5 x 8 (900 lb) Uhaul trailer 350 highway miles when the issue arose. Had a CEL, flashing parking brake light, flashing oil temp light, and jumping RPMs while driving along the highway. The transmission felt like it was jumping around a lot. I took the first exit about an eighth of a mile away and made it to a stop sign when a fail safe cut power to my transmission. Ended up pushing the car with the trailer into a parking lot and had to tow it to a local dealer. Before towing I read P0700, P0841, P0965 with my OBII scanner.

 

Just talked to the technician and he had drained the train fluid and described it as "burnt". The transmission made a grinding noise when they tried to move it before draining the fluid. So it sounds as if the CVT overheated and burnt up. I don't understand how this could be possible with such a clean history and only 70k on the car. Checked my owners manual and my max tow capacity is listed as 2700 lbs. 900 lbs is a hell of a lot less than the max. It sounds like my CVT is one of the extreme few that has failed for problem that has been neglected by Subaru, and the dealer is saying I still need to pay for a new CVT and labor >

Well it's not under warranty, I assume, so why would you not have to pay?

Worth a call or email to SOA customer service for goodwill assistance, especially if the car has a full dealer service history.

I search on Subaru CVT Oil revealed this:

 

I was chatting with my service rep when I was picking up my car from the shop, and we got on the subject of CVTs. He mentioned they've had a couple come in where the owner had taken it to a oil change service place like jiffy lube and they had drained the CVT oil by accident (since the CVT drain plug is so close to the engine drain plug, unlike the other transmissions) instead of the engine oil, filled up the engine oil, and sent them on their way. Apparently those things can last about a week with no oil in them before they go!

Anyways, if you're having your oil changed by someone other than the dealer.. I'd recommend checking the levels before you leave their lot. Hell I'd probably check even if it was the dealer. I trust no one.

 

 

 

Anyone that can confirm that the drain plug for the CVT is close to the engine plug? But the diff is in between, so maybe it was actually the diff that got drained?

 

There are however morons not knowing left from right that should never be let out with any kind of tool.

I don't know about the older CVT models, but the newer models don't have a dipstick for the CVT transmission. So you can can't check the levels, even if you wanted. Hope there's a good reason for that, because seems dumb to me.

 

I have heard this before and my own dealer said they've had cases like this many times. This is apparently a common mistake when people try to change the oil in their own car. The plugs look similar and aren't far from each other. I suspect this is what killed my CVT. I went to Valvoline for an oil change in the morning, drove about 100 miles, and it died that night. Guess who ended up paying for that? Me

Edited March 25, 2016 by cvb128

2010 with 127k miles - no issues

I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy with 133k. We replaced the computer and valve body and sporadically it'll buck and almost stall under acceleration. The entire gauges light up like a Christmas tree. Only very light acceleration will get it moving when that happens. Please help. Someone diagnosed it as a "lock up solenoid"?

 

EDIT: has P2762

Edited June 1, 2016 by obasha

I had 106,500 miles on my 2011 2.5i and those were damn hard miles. Drove it hard and put it down wet. Never an issue other than a slight jerk/grumble in traffic and sometimes at a stop light, but nothing abnormal. I just ditched the car for something german, but the CVT always worried me but never failed me. It's a shame the things fail like this. SOA has always and I mean always helped me out when something serious like this goes wrong. Hell, they even replaced my broken driver's seat frame which was $850 for free and gave me a loaner, 3500 miles out of warranty (I had 5yr 100k). It helped that this was the third Subaru in the family, and I didn't forget to mention that on the phone. All they did was pull up the dealer quote and then told me to drop it off!

I am an avid diyer and a pretty good mechanic, its just not my chosen day job, and I can't for the life of me understand how someone who does this stuff for a living can't tell the difference between an engine oil pan and transmission pan...

20K on my 2014, no issues...yet..

I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy with 133k. We replaced the computer and valve body and sporadically it'll buck and almost stall under acceleration. The entire gauges light up like a Christmas tree. Only very light acceleration will get it moving when that happens. Please help. Someone diagnosed it as a "lock up solenoid"?

 

EDIT: has P2762

 

When the Transmission Control Module (TCM) detects a continuous open or short to ground in the Torque Converter Clutch Pulse Width Modulated (TCC PWM) Solenoid valve circuit, then the P2764 code sets.

 

 

 

test to see if your sensor has a short in it or is open.

2012 problem started around 58k miles

I have close to 160,000 kilometres (100,000 miles) on my 2010 Legacy. Probably 70 /30 highway / city driving. No major issues but would like to hear from others how far to go with the vehicle before I should look at getting something else. Leaning towards an Outback for space for golf clubs and carts (2 sets). Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Right around the 100K mile mark I would just do a transmission fluid replacement and keep the car for longer.

CVT owners, I highly recommend monitoring your CVTF temps, CVT deterioration %, VB Solenoid Pressures, Impeller and Turbine RPMs (to see when the lockup clutch engages and if it holds).

 

Depending on your model year and whether your car uses a Denso vs a Hitachi TCU, you can do most of this using RomRaiders logger, ActiveOBD, ActiveOBD for TQ and soon BtSsm (by far the most versetile, fast and convienient of the three). Best $15 you can spend for your CVT Subaru.

 

Average and peak CVTF temps alone will be very telling. If consistently too high, especially for extended periods of time its a good sign of:

 

a. Oxidized CVTF (time to flush or drain-n-fill)

b. Potential issues with TC lockup clutch

c. Brazed TC, faulty solenoids, etc.

 

Monitoring CVTF temps under load, when climbing hills, inner city stop and go, towing, etc gives a great indicaton if your car could benefit from a aux. CVTF cooler or if the OE radiator unit and tiny cooler are sufficient.

got 109k on my odometer on my 2010 legacy. My CVT has been nothing but problems since 80k. It shudders, and nearly stalls at just about every stop light in the summer. It has problems not shifting when temps reach 100+, and when going from drive to park, it does shudder. Basically, the transmission is garbage in the summer, and during the winter, my only problem is that it sounds "windy" when I'm hooning in the snow. (obviously I'm not shifting at the right time lmao) But thus far, whenever boost season hits, (or good transmission season in my case) the car drives like a ******* dream. This car has its quircks and odd things, but it's got character. Wouldn't have it any other way.