Check Engine Light on, Blinking Brake & Cruise Control Light & VDC Light On ???

Didn’t bother finding out the problem. Traded for a new Audi SQ5. Good riddance.

Oof. That's a downgrade...

The week I drove an A4 was probably the most boring driving of my life. That includes the Toyota Echo.

Did they swap the cylinder 4 coil with another one to make sure the misfire followed the coil? It's not uncommon for coils to rust out and stop working, but they're expensive enough that I'd want to make sure it was the coil and not a plug or injector first.

i can ask today when i pick it up but i am sure that the service tech wouldn't know if the technician did that test or such.

I assume you're leasing, then? German cars aren't known for inexpensive parts or maintenance, and VAG products aren't known for being particularly easy to work on, and the combination of those things doesn't exactly lend itself to a low total cost of ownership. Looks like you may not have to pull the engine on the (S)Q5 to replace a power steering pump, though, which is a plus. I'm not joking about that being something Audi does just to try to prove my point, by the way, that's actually a real thing.

Not trying to be an argumentative jerk (not any more than you could expect complaining about a vehicle on a forum dedicated to that vehicle, at least), just pointing out a potential flaw in your logic. If you were willing to ditch your Legacy because of a CEL, you probably weren't particularly in love with it to begin with, sorry it wasn't what you'd hoped for.

Also, armchair mechanic's best guess- I'd guess that if you'd had that code pulled, it would have been P0420 for low catalytic converter efficiency. Since the car didn't drive any differently, that would mean it'd be the rear O2 sensor, probably the heater circuit was starting to flake out. Ambient temps may or may not have played a role, but the code clears itself after a certain number of drive cycles without an occurrence. DIY fix for about $50 plus a can of PB Blaster and a trip to the auto parts store to rent an O2 sensor socket, or a couple hundred to have a mechanic do it for you.

good thing there’s a warranty for that “bill” I’ll get.

Exactly. I just don't get why people say that kind of thing like it's a good thing. I'd rather just have a reliable vehicle.

But I hope you're happy with the SQ5.

My 2014 Subaru legacy 2.5i code P0700 and P2750 flashing lights cruise ATS temp flashing and and others flashing fluid levels are good on transmission

replaced my TCM still no drive or reverse it will go into those R and Drive but the car wont move on either one checked all fuses don't know what else can it be. Thanks in advance.

Mine will do something similar. I'll hit the brakes when I'm on cruise control and the cruise light will start flashing and I won't be able to use cruise anymore. I have to turn the car off and back on to get it to work again.

Have you done anything to the taillights recently?

For what it's worth, we have a 2012 Legacy that we bought about 15 months ago with ~113,000 miles at the time.

We had all of these check engine lights that would not stay off. I did the Gas Cap and even changed the Throttle Body.

It was not fixed until I replaced both of the Oxygen Sensors that it all went away. It is actually an easy job once you have the right tool. Both parts and the tool from http://www.rockauto.com were less than $200. No more "Check Engine" lights and we're approaching now 124,000 miles.

There a couple of how-to videos for this job on youtube.

Hope this helps.

Arturo

10/15/19

Mine will do something similar. I'll hit the brakes when I'm on cruise control and the cruise light will start flashing and I won't be able to use cruise anymore. I have to turn the car off and back on to get it to work again.

Also check the brake fluid level.

Status update:

 

Other members were right, all those lights come on to "catch Your Attention" according to the Dealer. Code p0026 came up. VVL Right Oil Control valve & solenoid, found to be malfunctioning and sticking. Replaced the valve - condition cured.

 

THX for the responses. Interesting that all those lights illuminate and not just the CEL. I DID get our attention. Grand Prix Subaru in Hicksville Long Island, service my car (i did Not buy it from them). They are terrific. They also confirmed & found the slight wobble (movement) in the Driver's seat ( I couldn't recall the TSB # which I saw somewhere on this forum), ordered a new seat frame, to be installed next week. Free Oil & Filter Change (offered on every other service call), and they resecured the Gauge Cluster cover loose (i mentioned that there was noise coming from there over rough roads)......All under Warranty - no charge, no Hassle.

Luckily I went to AutoZone and got a read. Looks like it happened twice, but the second one is stuck and not clearing out. I got the part number for the switch. What is the part number vvt solenoid?

i just rec'd these warnings this morning and the car is running extremely rough and stumbling. the owners manual says to not drive but i have to get to work & then get to dealer how the F are you not supposed to drive? i have had this prior when it winds up being the gas cap. but i never had the stumble before.

would you Believe I had this AGAIN! today I went to lunch and the same damn thing happened again! this would make it the 3rd TIME I have gotten all these warning lights!!!

1st time as you can read from my posts in this thread was a Cyl 4 misfire and all coils needed to be replaced. the 2nd time this happened the dealer said it was an oil pressure sensor or something like that. I would have to check through my bills/paperwork for the exact diagnosis. but now today a 3rd time????

WTF IS WRONG WITH THIS CAR? I think it might be time to get a new freaking car!! this is HIGHLY ANNOYING that this will be the 3rd time for the same issue or possible issue.:mad:

would you Believe I had this AGAIN! today I went to lunch and the same damn thing happened again! this would make it the 3rd TIME I have gotten all these warning lights!!!

1st time as you can read from my posts in this thread was a Cyl 4 misfire and all coils needed to be replaced. the 2nd time this happened the dealer said it was an oil pressure sensor or something like that. I would have to check through my bills/paperwork for the exact diagnosis. but now today a 3rd time????

 

WTF IS WRONG WITH THIS CAR? I think it might be time to get a new freaking car!! this is HIGHLY ANNOYING that this will be the 3rd time for the same issue or possible issue.:mad:

It seems you are misunderstanding the warning lights, the combination of flashing lights occur because of the malfunction indicator light being illuminated. In this instance they are merely calling your attention to the actual issue. So you have had different issues which set a check engine light (malfunction indicator light) which signals the other warning lights to come on for no other purpose than to draw your attention to the CEL.

would you Believe I had this AGAIN! today I went to lunch and the same damn thing happened again! this would make it the 3rd TIME I have gotten all these warning lights!!!

1st time as you can read from my posts in this thread was a Cyl 4 misfire and all coils needed to be replaced. the 2nd time this happened the dealer said it was an oil pressure sensor or something like that. I would have to check through my bills/paperwork for the exact diagnosis. but now today a 3rd time????

 

WTF IS WRONG WITH THIS CAR? I think it might be time to get a new freaking car!! this is HIGHLY ANNOYING that this will be the 3rd time for the same issue or possible issue.:mad:

A misfire on cyl 3 now! how many times is this going to happen? twice in 6 years i have had a misfire and all coils replaced! this is painful to own a car you can't trust

If the all the coils are all rusty then it can make sense to replace them all rather then have coils fail one by one of over a relatively short period of time.

Coils rusting is a common issue for this generation. It looks like this issue happened in 2018 for 2012 model year car. The car was 6-7 years old at that time (depending on if it was an early 2012 or late 2012). This is a little early for coil failures but not unheard of. It has been 4 years since that fix. This is really early for additional coils failures. Your either missing the plastic under pan tray to keep the salt and road off the underside of the engine and/or the mechanic used cheap aftermarket coils.

If the all the coils are all rusty then it can make sense to replace them all rather then have coils fail one by one of over a relatively short period of time.

 

Coils rusting is a common issue for this generation. It looks like this issue happened in 2018 for 2012 model year car. The car was 6-7 years old at that time (depending on if it was an early 2012 or late 2012). This is a little early for coil failures but not unheard of. It has been 4 years since that fix. This is really early for additional coils failures. Your either missing the plastic under pan tray to keep the salt and road off the underside of the engine and/or the mechanic used cheap aftermarket coils.

you think they would say it is a common issue for this generation, but i guess if you do why would people buy the car then.

I have had this fixed at the dealer all 3 times, so if there is a pan tray underneath, hopefully the mechanic put it back.

And, to answer the question 2 posts up, i am only doing 1 at a time because $300 is easier to swallow 1 by 1 than $1600 all replaced just to happen again in 5 years

you think they would say it is a common issue for this generation, but i guess if you do why would people buy the car then.

 

I have had this fixed at the dealer all 3 times, so if there is a pan tray underneath, hopefully the mechanic put it back.

 

And, to answer the question 2 posts up, i am only doing 1 at a time because $300 is easier to swallow 1 by 1 than $1600 all replaced just to happen again in 5 years

The OEM coils are around $125 per coil. $1600 for 6 is overpriced. I can see the $300 for one coil, diagnosis time plus labor. If you are just replacing one coil at time I would expect to have intermittent coil failures. 5th Gens driven in the salt belt will have coil failures. They should be good for 6-10 years.