Noname 08 OBXT Rebuild Thread

Was supposed to go rallycross this weekend but that got called off due to rain. Decided to finally tackle the steering rack swap and it's gone about as expected.

 

Got the old rack out. Had difficulty getting the hard lines detached and not looking forward to getting them back on. Outer tie rods on the lgt rack are super frozen. After s few hours struggling, decided I'll just get new inners. Luckily napa has some so I'm running down there.

 

Once tie rods are replaced, I'll put the whiteline kit on, get it all attached, whiteline front sway installed, and hope the toe isn't horrible.

 

 

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Oh also been putting psf instead of atf in for the last 15000 miles. So that's probably not great.

 

 

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FYI, if your no longer living in Slc UT, you should update your location...just we know where you are so we can stop in and visit sometime LOL

 

FYI, if your no longer living in Slc UT, you should update your location...just we know where you are so we can stop in and visit sometime LOL

 

 

 

Lol I need to update a lot of that! It says the civic still lives. Apparently I can't do it from tapatalk though.

 

 

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Well this might be the slowest job I've done aside from the engine. 16 hours and I'm nearly done. But it was 2am and the rain started.

 

Let's see. Went to the store twice and then to the storage unit after getting frustrated with the old tie rods.

 

 

Angle grinder removed the outers quickly lol.

 

Then centered the rack incorrectly. Got over zealous and undid the seat belt holding the steering wheel after I got the shaft connected. Bad idea. And miscommunication with my helper means that during the fix the wheel got spun three rotations before I stopped her. Hopefully the clock spring is OK. Horn works.

 

Put the new sway bar on backwards. Spent a while trying to figure that out. Finally got it but I've been working with jack stands not ramps so struggled with it for a bit before realizing wheels needed to be on the ground.

 

But it's all in there. Parts have been cleaned relatively well. New inner and outer tie rods. White line steering rack bushings and front sway bar. Need to finish bleeding the system and get it aligned. Toe looks out.

 

 

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Wow, that's a nights (days) work...

Well news of the day is that something is broken, likely the steering angle sensor.

 

Dealer also told me the rear toe bolts were frozen, and the whiteline camber bolts needed a special tool and they couldn't do a full alignment. Seems weird that the I didn't have this issue when I got it aligned like two months ago. But as long as it won't kill my tires, it'll hold over until it gets lowered.

 

 

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Ah these rear toe bolts.... I had to sawzall them a few years back. What a pain. I have anti seize compound on all of them now. It's no longer a problem.

Ah these rear toe bolts.... I had to sawzall them a few years back. What a pain. I have anti seize compound on all of them now. It's no longer a problem.

 

 

Yea I wouldn't be surprised that anything is frozen on this car. But either the toe was fine and therefore not touched on my alignment to months ago, and therefore the toe shouldn't have changed in the rear I would think. Or the shop I went to in utah is also no good. Considering the reputation of the utah shop and the fact that the only person who worked there had the same car and rear aluminum lateral links with the whiteline bushings. Well I'll trust him more.

 

Also didn't get an alignment printout and was told the vdc light is on "due to aftermarket and non oem suspension parts" which can't be correct because I don't have any of those, except the whiteline rear camber bolts. Oh and I guess the sway bars.

 

Unfortunately that's an $80 lesson to not go to that dealer.

 

 

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I only go to the dealers when I need parts they have in stock and for the airbag recalls. Which reminds me I need to do that...

I’ve been screwed by the repair techs at the Subaru dealer twice now and and once at the Buick dealer (this one was on warranty work) both times at Subaru I was lazy and didn’t feel like doing it myself and both times I found the solution just involved a little more diagnosis work than they felt like doing at the time.

 

As for your rear toe bolts, every single one I’ve messed with along with the body side rear upper control arm bolts have all rounded off the head and every single time the best version of my least favorite tool has gotten them off.

 

https://www.lewiscontractorsales.com/dewalt-9-inch-quick-release-curved-jaw-locking-pliers.html?gclid=CjwKCAjww5r8BRB6EiwArcckC7G9vTH76In81T7jiiv1rSZrzOK06fbQPV6wWnCrmRjJPlxECPT7shoC-WAQAvD_BwE

 

Clamp down on it and tighten the piss out of the adjustment with a 16mm socket and it WILL bite hard enough to hold that bolt.

Do you have the whiteline camber bushings? My alignment shop said they had to grrind down an Allen wrench to "make a tool"

 

They never once mentioned my rear toe. I imagine those bolts have been frozen for years.

I do. The Subaru specialty shop in utah didn't complain about it at all. He pressed the bushings out of the new aluminum upper links and aligned it after my install. He has the same set up on his personal car so maybe he's made a tool.

 

He said he takes the wheels off to adjust them. When I did it during install I just used a Philips screw driver.... They've only been on 5k miles max.

 

 

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I'm also used to dealing with small eccentric bolts due to bike bottom brackets. So maybe it just didn't seem like a big deal to me? I looked at it after I put them on and went hmm my Allen's are too big or too flimsy. I'll use something I don't care if it bends a little. It took me like fifteen seconds to figure out how to adjust them.

 

 

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Well almost 30k on the engine. Ordered spark plugs and mevotech control arms. Should be here Sunday. Control arms will go on asap as shaking is getting worse.

 

Also got an spt axle back and longer kartboy exhaust hangers. Will be putting that on tomorrow with the understanding that it'll possibly melt the bumper. I have thoughts on what I'll do about that in the future.

 

When I do spark plugs I'm planning to do compression and leak down, mostly for peace of mind. From there, assuming good numbers, start getting ready for stage 2.

 

 

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You do know the spark plugs are not do until 60,000 miles ? They'll go 70,000 miles if needed.

You do know the spark plugs are not do until 60,000 miles ? They'll go 70,000 miles if needed.

 

 

Changing too early isn't a problem aside from the work and the cost of plugs.

 

 

Then it's a good idea to look at the old plugs, they shall all be identical in color. If not then it's a sign that something might be incorrect.

You do know the spark plugs are not do until 60,000 miles ? They'll go 70,000 miles if needed.

 

 

I did think that seemed excessive. Just double checked as my personal maintenance schedule I had marked 30k. Turns out that's for the non turbo.

 

 

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I've found that with my current setup that changing plugs at 30k seems to work well. This is with one step colder plugs though. Actually, they're the oem plugs for 2018+ sti.

I still plan to but it's moving from asap to sometime this or next month. I'm curious for a compression test.

 

 

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I've found that with my current setup that changing plugs at 30k seems to work well. This is with one step colder plugs though. Actually, they're the oem plugs for 2018+ sti.

 

 

What is the advantage of running these? Did you select these because you run the type RA block? Maybe I should do the same then..

My understanding is for big turbos and such. I know cryo doesn't feel they are necessary at stage 2.

 

 

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What is the advantage of running these? Did you select these because you run the type RA block? Maybe I should do the same then..

 

Again, I use them because they cost less.

 

It also makes the engine less prone to knock. It's slightly easier for the Tuner.

What is the advantage of running these? Did you select these because you run the type RA block? Maybe I should do the same then..

 

 

 

Again, I use them because they cost less.

 

It also makes the engine less prone to knock. It's slightly easier for the Tuner.

 

All of these.

 

NGK 5245 ILFR7H. It's the same plug as used in a 2006 Evo. You can also use NGK 2309 LFR7AIX (also used an an Evo). If you want two steps colder, use 2008-10 Evo OEM plugs.

 

The 5245 uses a platiunum ground electrode while the 2309 uses a nickel ground electrode; both use iridium center electrodes and have taper cut ground electrodes.

 

I've used both and prefer the 5245 plugs to the 2309 plugs. The 5245 seem to hold up a tad longer than 2309 and I attribute the difference in the platinum vs nickel ground electrodes.

Edited December 7, 2020 by rhino6303

Less prone to knock is definitely a win in my book.

 

 

 

rhino, did you do some kind of before/after test between stock plugs and the colder version with your tuner? Was he able to detect less knock with the latter?