Noname 08 OBXT Rebuild Thread

That's extremely helpful. And more work than I was hoping haha. Just seeing that shift linkage is helpful as it confirms that it's not just "road grime." Like idk where I got this idea that is normal for the bottoms of vehicles to have caked on oil and grease picking up road grit and building these giant nasty messes.

 

I'm almost wondering if it's worth it to just try to find a lower mileage transmission instead. But part of me WANTS to open it all up.

 

 

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That's kinda where I'm at. Mine leaks there too, and on top of that makes really nasty center and front diff noise (to the best of my ability to diagnose). You can get low mileage JDM 5 speeds for around $500, which seems like a no brainer as long as you get the right type.

 

I will say that opening up this one and then going through the FSM parts diagrams was super educational. Why not buy a replacement and tear into your old one, fix the seal and have it as a spare?

I always see this "cheap jdm" thing thrown around. On like yahoo jpn? Canada? When I first got my car a guy in slc was selling one from a 6spd upgrade but I thought I'd wait.

 

I'd love to have a fully rebuilt one. Not over built but effectively reman. Because I want this car to last forever.

 

 

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There's plenty that come up stateside on Ebay or on the importers' sites direct. I've been going through Rallispec's trans list and looking up P/Ns with a final drive matching my rear diff.

Ah OK. I've found a lot of things is just knowing where to look. I'm just sorta getting the hang of the yahoo Japan site so I can try to find some black trim pieces (also not high priority lol)

 

 

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Don't think I mentioned this but I wanted to check my learning values before I left, just out of curiosity due to some things I learned last time around.

 

My trims leveled out some. 5.6, 5.9, -0.1, -3.1 and the knock table has cleared itself. I realize trims likely adjust a lot but I'm glad the 8.8 has dropped some.

 

I also hadn't realized that 1.40 flkc is the first step and from there it reduces some until it clears and if it feels the need to pull timing it'll pull another 1.40. Since its cleared and I was pushing it hard for a few minutes the other night, makes me feel a bit better. Can't wait until I can get a tune.

 

 

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So looks like I'm not getting the family volvo but that's probably for the better.

 

Trying to figure out some things. I know pdxammo has an 07 spec b he can part out. What I can't figure out, is if the cv axles and steering rack are compatible. It's 6sp to 5sp but seems to be the same part number on the cv axles. The steering rack, there is a matching part number but the parts website shows two different ones on the spec b. It seems like they should be interchangeable.

 

I'm guessing I couldn't use the transmission from his legacy gt wagon as the final drive is 4.11 as opposed to my 4.44. From what I'm reading it would slow down my acceleration and I don't really want to do that.

Well I finally got around to replacing the seals around the reverse lights. Hopefully that'll end the water incursion. Also figure out why my rear defroster doesn't seem to do anything. The driver side wire isn't connected to the element. Haven't looked at any parts diagrams yet but doesn't look like a super easy fix.

 

 

 

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its an easy fix actually! u just need a defroster tab repair kit, basically silver glue, which conducts electricity. That's if the element actually separated from the glass, but it looks like your power line was separated from the element, just solder it back!

Element is still on the glass. The other side is a lot different. It's got a clip on the wire that plugs in to the element. It was cold yesterday so I didn't look too long but I think the side is the same.

 

I couldn't find the parts diagram for it anywhere though. I'd rather just buy a new wire if it's a plug since I've never soldered before.

 

 

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Well I finally got around to replacing the seals around the reverse lights. Hopefully that'll end the water incursion. Also figure out why my rear defroster doesn't seem to do anything. The driver side wire isn't connected to the element. Haven't looked at any parts diagrams yet but doesn't look like a super easy fix.

 

 

 

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You wouldn't happen to have a quick DIY on getting to the back light housing do you ? Not a big fan of working upside down at my age...

 

I have sealed the tail light housing. It's the back up light housing I need to get to.

I don't. I thought about it because I don't recall seeing one. I'm going to take it apart next weekend again to replace broken parts haha. One bolt on each reverse light was seized and I broke them off on accident.

 

I have some thoughts having done it once now already and I think a lot of it would be easier with the hatch closed actually. Except for maybe losing nuts.

 

I also noticed the fsm shows more nuts than there was on my hatch but 2. I spent a WHILE looking for those two.

 

 

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Oh, do it from the inside...interesting...

Yea I'll take a look at that, since it's so cold outside being out of the wind would be nice. Either way I'll be pulling it apart again Saturday for those bolts and a small spot of touching on the gate so it doesn't rust. I'll get you some photos and post a diy then.

 

In case you couldn't guess, it's really not too bad or I wouldn't be doing it again so soon. Just a few hang ups I had that maybe took me an extra thirty minutes or so more.

 

 

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Great, I'll be doing this in the Spring time. I'll be skiing four day's next weekend.

Nice we just had a huge storm over the last few days. I didn't get out though. Had to focus on life stuff unfortunately.

 

 

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Well after a bunch of various things, I have some money to put into the car to get it fully reliable and in a place I can be satisfied with it for the next year or so.

 

I've ordered primitive racing skid plates for the diff and engine. Have an lgt steering rack and lower mileage oe front axle on the way. Bulletproof kit for the intercooler. Money set aside for the tune (debating on if I should wait to do this as I get a little chatter from my axle under hard acceleration I think.) planning to get an oil pressure gauge for the cubby and maybe a boost gauge. And likely sway bars.

 

Also planning to get an alignment once the new steering rack and tie rods are in. Replacing the hub bearing on the bad axle as well as rear hub bearings which I already have. And debating on replacing the lower control arms with all new bushings.

 

If there's money still after this I'll be playing with retrofitting some fog lights, hids, and window tinting.

 

 

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Got the left rear hub bearing replaced. Wasn't too bad but did have to hammer the bearing out of the parking brake assembly. No abs issues, weird braking feel, or weird noises. Tomorrow going to do the other side.

 

Noticed there is some surface rust on the left wheel arch. Not happy about that but likely a summer project.

 

Front skid plate is on. Spent time under the car checking everything. No new leaks, drive shaft feels tight.

 

Also replaced the oil fill neck with one that didn't have sludge in it and a new o ring. I thought the old one was OK but it's apparently not supposed to be square. Hopefully that'll stop the leak around the valve cover.

 

 

 

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It's the little maintenance things that make a big difference, no?

 

I like your skid plate.

Got the other rear hub bearing done. A little more corroded. Had to have someone hold the brakes while standing on the breaker bar and bouncing lightly.

 

Couldn't get the rear skid plate on though. I either need another hand, a bigger pry bar, or maybe both honestly.

 

After go karts I'm going to try to run by work and grab the fancy lux meter we have and get some comparison photos of the reverse lights. Roommate said she'd hold in the clutch so I can get photos and measurements.

 

 

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It's the little maintenance things that make a big difference, no?

 

 

 

I like your skid plate.

 

 

 

Yea. I had some weird clunking noises from the rear on a fast downhill round about. Thought it was wheel bearings but the old ones didn't feel that bad.

 

Also have whiteline sway bars on the way and kartboy end links. Between all that it should feel real good.

 

 

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I am a huge fan of my Whiteline RSB. It has instilled that much more confidence in my driving abilities with the car. I went from blown, floaty OEM suspension >> stiff, fresh coilovers (which eliminated ungodly amounts of body roll) >> a phat RSB set up (on soft mind you). I'm taking the same chicanes/sweepers that I wouldn't dare go over 55/60mph before, now at 75/80mph.

 

I thought I had ordered Moog endlinks, but I did not. So I'll be getting those at some point.

 

 

 

 

 

*All driving performed on a closed course. Do not attempt.*

Yea I got front and rear. 22/20 in the kit you can get with the adjustable end links. I'll be interested to see how the difference in feel is.

 

Luckily my struts aren't blown. I'd like to replace them in the next year or so. Will likely do kyb replacements with rallitek stock height over load springs. At least that's the current plan. Maybe do prior Gen rear struts.

 

 

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Tried to get some photos. These were taken on my iPhone 7. Just going to do a basic for right now and I'll pm write up a more detailed post later.

 

But basically, as expected, led lights don't work super well in reflectors not designed for them. I think there's two ways to look at it, get other peoples attention to let them know you're backing out, or to light the area behind you. More or less neither stock, nor superpowered led are any good for the second.

 

 

I'm just going to upload these through tapatalk for now. Detailed post will get better photos. But you can see the beam pattern gets all wacky with the led. I'd be interested to see if the increased light output worked better on a backup camera, but I don't have one yet.

 

 

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I never put in the effort to put mine up against a wall, so I never noticed the beam pattern. That is a little odd, the light pattern I mean. Are there any alternatives to LED reverse lights? As you said, LEDs are never ideal for reflector housings, although knowing that didn't really affect my decision to purchase what appear to be brighter lights (for reversing mind you).