230k miles, HG leaking

Sounds like pulling the turbo or lifting the whole intake manifold from the heads and replacing those two gaskets.

 

My wagons bank 1 sensor connector is broken, my Tuner just deleted the CEL for it. the car runs fine.

 

Here's more pictures from my 05.

 

Here's the T

 

From the left port on the T, that line goes here on the shock tower,

 

 

Here's a wider pic of that left line.

 

Edited February 24, 2021 by Max Capacity

Thanks again for the help, very much appreciated.

 

I finally figured out where the #4 port went to- the hose was sitting right there (yellow dots in picture), behind other hoses. Engine ran fine without it, but probably better to have it attached.

 

I was able to remove/replace the TGV sensors- As mentioned in another post on this site, you have to press it on with the connector vertical, then rotate it to the correct position and screw it down. The one by the turbo was a PITA, but was able to remove the heat shield and the vacuum actuator bracket and get to it. Dropped the lower screw, never to be seen again, so I bought some Allen head stainless screws to replace it (4mmx12mm) and it went back in a lot easier.

 

New hoses are a bit bigger around than old, so some of the hose positioning clips don't fit anymore. Forgot to attach the bottom hose to the turbo coolant res. the third time I put it in, so had a nasty surprise when my new blue coolant started pouring out of the engine. Found and fixed that, very glad it wasn't the bottom Turbo coolant line leaking.

 

Fired it up, runs and no codes. Cautiously optimistic that it's going to be OK. I did end up over-filling the oil- Must have pooled someplace, because after I started it up it was over a quart high, and that with a new empty oil filter installed. Will suck some oil out later today to bring it down.

 

Tranny oil and diff oil changes coming up, they are way, way overdue. Then rear bushings and all, followed by an alignment.

 

Thanks again for the help, was certainly an adventure. Could get it done far, far faster the next time of course, but figured I saved around $1000-$1500 on this job, and ended up with a few new tools too.

FWIW, all my cars have Fumoto Oil Drain valves, makes oil changes easy, put a hose on the nipple and into a container.

 

 

Nice to hear you got that TGV sensor without a lot of issues.

 

May be you can do a post in the DYI forum.

I parked the car in Dec. due what I thought was a blow-by of exhaust gasses getting in to the radiator. Might have been the case, the head shop did say they had to take a few passes on one head, but I didn't see any evidence of it when I looked at the old gaskets and heads.

 

Discovered today that the top of the radiator had cracked, and that was one of my main problems. Still had head gasket issues and an oil leak getting worse, but could have limped along longer I suspect.

 

I chose not to replace/repair the turbo, even though it's approaching 230k miles. Not a hint of play, and looked good. I may regret that choice, but sharing here so you can mock me when it fails.

 

OK to carefully remove the new antifreeze, filter it for debris, and put it back in?

No need to add the super-subaru treatment bottle?

Anti-freeze is cheap at Walmart. I bought a gallon the other week just so I have some in case I need it. $9.00 Either Peak Global or Prestone.

 

Did you get a OEM style radiator ? I have a the big Mishimoto but will not do that again.

 

No need for additives.

Got the new radiator in, works fine. I did filter/reused the expensive long life Subaru coolant. I bought the one off Amazon, not OEM.

 

Flushed the ATF by letting it pump in to a bucket. Didn’t know the bucket size, so only got out six quarts, but much better than nothing.

 

Replaced the diff fluid too, first time I think. Front was a little dark, back looked clean. Some munge on the magnet, but not bad.

 

Got it all put together- only thing remaining is brake fluid, which I’ll do when I take the winter tires off in a few weeks.

 

Still needs rear bushings, so that’s next too.

This is the one: SCITOO Radiator 2778 fit 2005-2009 S-ubaru Legacy GT H4 2.5L

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MXYF59

Good price on the radiator. You may want to add that to JmP's sticky in the4th Gen forum about various parts.

 

Hope you don't mind, but I did it for you, I gave you credit for it. It's post #327 in that thread.

Edited March 29, 2021 by Max Capacity

Thanks again for the help, very much appreciated.

 

 

 

I finally figured out where the #4 port went to- the hose was sitting right there (yellow dots in picture), behind other hoses. Engine ran fine without it, but probably better to have it attached.

 

 

 

I was able to remove/replace the TGV sensors- As mentioned in another post on this site, you have to press it on with the connector vertical, then rotate it to the correct position and screw it down. The one by the turbo was a PITA, but was able to remove the heat shield and the vacuum actuator bracket and get to it. Dropped the lower screw, never to be seen again, so I bought some Allen head stainless screws to replace it (4mmx12mm) and it went back in a lot easier.

 

 

 

New hoses are a bit bigger around than old, so some of the hose positioning clips don't fit anymore. Forgot to attach the bottom hose to the turbo coolant res. the third time I put it in, so had a nasty surprise when my new blue coolant started pouring out of the engine. Found and fixed that, very glad it wasn't the bottom Turbo coolant line leaking.

 

 

 

Fired it up, runs and no codes. Cautiously optimistic that it's going to be OK. I did end up over-filling the oil- Must have pooled someplace, because after I started it up it was over a quart high, and that with a new empty oil filter installed. Will suck some oil out later today to bring it down.

 

 

 

Tranny oil and diff oil changes coming up, they are way, way overdue. Then rear bushings and all, followed by an alignment.

 

 

 

Thanks again for the help, was certainly an adventure. Could get it done far, far faster the next time of course, but figured I saved around $1000-$1500 on this job, and ended up with a few new tools too.

Do your TGV sensors have the gear on them? Could you link the post you mentioned for the correct way to align them please? Thanks!

 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

There is a gear in them, and the above instructions are really the best I can do.

 

Took me multiple tries.

 

 

So here a year later, I have a bit more news- My oil leak that I was chasing I now believe is the gasket between the oil-cooler and engine. I have the gasket, and will fix that during my spring oil change. I had no idea there was a gasket there...

 

 

 

So a good chance it was never the head gaskets at all. But now the gasket, belts and hoses are all done, so I'm hoping for another 100k miles.

 

 

Of course the driver's side door handle snapped last weekend...

There is a gear in them, and the above instructions are really the best I can do.

 

Took me multiple tries.

 

 

So here a year later, I have a bit more news- My oil leak that I was chasing I now believe is the gasket between the oil-cooler and engine. I have the gasket, and will fix that during my spring oil change. I had no idea there was a gasket there...

 

 

 

So a good chance it was never the head gaskets at all. But now the gasket, belts and hoses are all done, so I'm hoping for another 100k miles.

 

 

Of course the driver's side door handle snapped last weekend...

Thank you! I took them apart and scrubbed the 14 years worth of carbon and gunk out of them, and put them back together the same way they came apart. I guess I did it right cuz we are over 1000 miles and no fault codes...[emoji106]

 

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I replaced the oil cooler gasket last weekend. Old one looks fine, don’t think that was the issue. New antifreeze again though.

 

Did a 1/4 turn tighter on the oil pan bolts I could reach, maybe that is it.

 

The oil covers the lower engine when it runs, so very hard to find where it is coming from.

 

Found a steering rack boot that I had recently replaced had failed, had to replace it again. Bought a higher quality one this time.