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driveshaft with replacable U joints


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Hey Max, did you manage to get it installed and/or weigh it yet?

 

The wagon is still on the lift at the tranny shop waiting for either shift forks or bearings and synchro's from Subaru.

 

Two weeks ago the 5mt got stuck between gears. Worn shift forks.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Two weeks ago the 5mt got stuck between gears. Worn shift forks.

 

Got a habit of leaning on the shifter a little, hmmm? :lol: I kid, it's got almost 300K on it now. Something's gonna give.

 

Report back when ya got the thing in, I guess!

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Got a habit of leaning on the shifter a little, hmmm? :lol: I kid, it's got almost 300K on it now. Something's gonna give.

 

Report back when ya got the thing in, I guess!

 

Funny you mention that. I believe this will be the third set of shift forks I've been through. In different 5mt's in this car.

 

It does have the OEM STI short throw shifter installed by the dealership before I picked the car up June 28 2004.

 

May be we can discuss this further in the Transmission Forum sticky about 5mt failures.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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On a good note, I'll be picking the wagon up later today.

 

Funny thing, I called to check on it today, as he was walking to the phone to call me and tell me its ready. I think that car and I are really attached at the hip, as my son say's.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Ok, picked the car, shifts great, the Driveshaft fit in nicely and doesn't feel any different then a stock shaft. Time will tell.

 

The tranny shop owner and I talked about the different setup in the carrier bearing on this shaft. He said the rubber seems a little softer then what he would have thought.

But I pointed out that bearing area is now not seeing the same stress angle as the OEM unit. As the U joint is now behind that, I'll assume the carrier bearing is now just spinning level and not getting as much angle force as OEM.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Ok, picked the car, shifts great, the Driveshaft fit in nicely and doesn't feel any different then a stock shaft. Time will tell.

 

The tranny shop owner and I talked about the different setup in the carrier bearing on this shaft. He said the rubber seems a little softer then what he would have thought.

But I pointed out that bearing area is now not seeing the same stress angle as the OEM unit. As the U joint is now behind that, I'll assume the carrier bearing is now just spinning level and not getting as much angle force as OEM.

 

Wait, I missed that.

So the new driveshaft has the u-joint on the other side of the carrier bearing?

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Wait, I missed that.

So the new driveshaft has the u-joint on the other side of the carrier bearing?

 

second picture in post 15

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Hey Max, did you manage to get it installed and/or weigh it yet?

 

FWIW, the OEM shaft weigh's 19lbs. I put it back in the box and the weight jumped to 25lbs.

 

The shipping weight of the new shaft was 27lbs in the box.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I installed mine today, here is what I learned.

 

I bought it because mine has 210k miles on it and it's really hard to get a good clean shift.

I've done a lot of other things around it: fluids, bushings, etc.

But still had that issue, so I figured why not. :spin:

 

IMG_7521.thumb.JPG.4999bf0b42af333dfbde2a374307ee8a.JPG

 

At the rear differential, I have this nasty pattern on the heat shield.

Nothing about this says good things...

Once I pulled it out, there was a little roughness in the front u-joint.

However, the rear u-joint was really bad.

It had a really nasty flat spot that you could actually see if I took a video.

I couldn't feel it when it was connected to everything, but out of the car it was very obvious.

 

IMG_7523.thumb.JPG.76f3278c1dc3f141125a2aabd2f85d8a.JPG

 

I removed the old one without removing the exhaust (at all).

Just jacked up the rear as far as I could (keep the lube in the tranny).

Was able to unbolt, remove, and install the new one.

 

IMG_7524.thumb.JPG.9ccefce79ea6a67051ef8517c2d21c94.JPG

 

The replacement is heavier (in many ways).

The stock driveshaft is approx 18.5lbs

The replacement is approx 22.75lbs

This the rear connection is thicker/heavier.

 

IMG_7525.thumb.JPG.d906606c32b61d9f06a61c0493abe7b7.JPG

 

The bushings in the carrier bearing mount are actually pretty good.

They have a metal core with rubber.

But I have a set of Beatrush solid bushings, so I pried off the provided bushings.

 

IMG_7527.thumb.JPG.53ca7f2c0b408f64fd9ba2a55ddc2126.JPG

 

Also the diameter is bigger on the replacement driveshaft.

Stock is 2.25" in diameter

Replacement is 2.5" in diameter

 

IMG_7528.thumb.JPG.60b4512b02abe36696579b24de835f36.JPG

 

It fits up there very nicely.

Went for a drive and I didn't expect to feel a difference, but I really do.

The transitions from 1-2, 2-3 are much smoother.

It's much easier to have clean shifts now where before it was almost impossible to not have a jerk when releasing the clutch.

Also, throttle transitions are smoother; no more shake/shutter on deceleration.

 

All in all, I'm really happy with the replacement; it's exceeded my expectations.

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I installed mine today, here is what I learned.

 

I bought it because mine has 210k miles on it and it's really hard to get a good clean shift.

I've done a lot of other things around it: fluids, bushings, etc.

But still had that issue, so I figured why not. :spin:

 

[ATTACH]286093[/ATTACH]

 

At the rear differential, I have this nasty pattern on the heat shield.

Nothing about this says good things...

Once I pulled it out, there was a little roughness in the front u-joint.

However, the rear u-joint was really bad.

It had a really nasty flat spot that you could actually see if I took a video.

I couldn't feel it when it was connected to everything, but out of the car it was very obvious.

 

[ATTACH]286094[/ATTACH]

 

I removed the old one without removing the exhaust (at all).

Just jacked up the rear as far as I could (keep the lube in the tranny).

Was able to unbolt, remove, and install the new one.

 

[ATTACH]286095[/ATTACH]

 

The replacement is heavier (in many ways).

The stock driveshaft is approx 18.5lbs

The replacement is approx 22.75lbs

This the rear connection is thicker/heavier.

 

[ATTACH]286096[/ATTACH]

 

The bushings in the carrier bearing mount are actually pretty good.

They have a metal core with rubber.

But I have a set of Beatrush solid bushings, so I pried off the provided bushings.

 

[ATTACH]286097[/ATTACH]

 

Also the diameter is bigger on the replacement driveshaft.

Stock is 2.25" in diameter

Replacement is 2.5" in diameter

 

[ATTACH]286098[/ATTACH]

 

It fits up there very nicely.

Went for a drive and I didn't expect to feel a difference, but I really do.

The transitions from 1-2, 2-3 are much smoother.

It's much easier to have clean shifts now where before it was almost impossible to not have a jerk when releasing the clutch.

Also, throttle transitions are smoother; no more shake/shutter on deceleration.

 

All in all, I'm really happy with the replacement; it's exceeded my expectations.

Thanks for posting this. My manual transmission has always been ridiculously jerky and, although I’m only 21 and have been driving manuals for a fraction of the time many of you have, I can pretty consistently change gear in my Honda or any car at work without the jerkyness I associate with my car. Guessing this will have to be replaced soon enough as well. Gah, to have a bunch of money lying around.

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My civic was much lower power as was my cousins fit. And at least my civic was drive by cable. Between that and the worn clutch, it took my about 5k to get used to the outback between the new clutch, extra power, and clutch damper valve.

 

I've read a few people say that made a huge difference in their ability to shift. I couldn't get mine off though so that project is delayed.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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FWIW, the OEM shaft weigh's 19lbs. I put it back in the box and the weight jumped to 25lbs.

 

The shipping weight of the new shaft was 27lbs in the box.

 

Late reply: thanks for doing that, negligible weight gain for a serviceable unit!

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How much vibration should you be able to feel in the armrest if you lay your elbow on it? Mine isn’t awful, but you can definitely feel some sort of rotational vibration under it.

 

Not much to none.

 

Next time your under the car grab the shaft on either side of the carrier bearing and see how much movement you get. You shouldn't have much.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Has anyone tried one of these on a Spec B?

 

I don't think so as they are new to most of us.

 

I don't see any reason why the 4eat driveshaft which I believe is the same would not work fine.

 

Think about it, the only difference is the length.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I don't think so as they are new to most of us.

 

I don't see any reason why the 4eat driveshaft which I believe is the same would not work fine.

 

Think about it, the only difference is the length.

 

I called them; they confirmed the 4eat driveshaft is the 6 speed driveshaft and said they would change the website to reflect that. I received it about a week ago and it perfectly matches up to my spec B. driveshaft, so I would call them identical.

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  • 6 months later...
I have an 05 GT Limited Wagon with squeaking and rattling coming from the carrier bearing. Its also a 5EAT. Should I pull the trigger on the one from the driveshaft store? I was also looking at the 1 piece from the driveshaft shop, but its more pricey.
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Like I asked in your other post, how much the DSS one piece ?

 

You can put prices here, its ok.

 

Ok I just checked your other post,

 

$625 is a big difference.

 

I'm happy with the drive shaft store I have. I think it was like $435.

 

FWIW, I haven't tried to see if the locking grease tip from https://locknlube.com/collections/locknlube-grease-coupler fits yet.

 

But it did fit on the 1986 F150 U joints to grease them.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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