Used ecm

I found a used ecm on eBay that matches my part # and everything, but they want over $300 for a used ecm. Has anyone succeeded in replacing their ecm with a different part # ecm?

 

 

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As far as I know, the ecm will need to be married to your car.

Why do you think you need a new ECM?

 

How close of a part number you need can depend on what you can do from a flashing perspective.

 

There are two main things, one is the tune and the other is the anti-theft.

If you match the numbers, you probably don't need to flash the tune; but you do need to handle that the replacement ECU doesn't match the BIU or instrument cluster.

 

At a minimum you'll need to either have the dealer flash the eprom with your VIN, you will need to flash it, or you'll need to desolder the chip and move it over. Not all dealers will do it, and most that I have asked wanted $300 or more (I think it depends on your area)

Also I think ecm failure is fairly uncommon

Why do you think you need a new ECM?

 

How close of a part number you need can depend on what you can do from a flashing perspective.

 

There are two main things, one is the tune and the other is the anti-theft.

If you match the numbers, you probably don't need to flash the tune; but you do need to handle that the replacement ECU doesn't match the BIU or instrument cluster.

 

At a minimum you'll need to either have the dealer flash the eprom with your VIN, you will need to flash it, or you'll need to desolder the chip and move it over. Not all dealers will do it, and most that I have asked wanted $300 or more (I think it depends on your area)

 

 

The main reason I’m asking is because I found a 2009 LGT ecm that is literally 1 letter off from mine, the one listed 22611am96a mine is 22611am96b. Even the two big letters match, just that last character on the part #. And it’s also $200 cheaper lol.

 

 

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Also I think ecm failure is fairly uncommon

 

 

I’ve tried everything I can for the code that I have. And everything says “repair loose connection” and that’s at the ecm. I’ve done voltage checks, ohmed out wires in the harness. Trust me the last thing I wanted to do was deal with the ecm but that’s what it looks to be. But yes I do agree with you, all the years of being at the dealer I never had to replace one. Leave it to my own personal car, and not being at the dealer anymore for this to happen lol.

 

 

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All the weird stuff happens with my personal vehicles as well. What code are you having

All the weird stuff happens with my personal vehicles as well. What code are you having

 

 

P0032 - A/F sensor circuit high input.

 

 

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wait, you want to change your ecm because of a P0032 code?? Thats the code for your front o2 sensor, I would start there. Unless your o2 sensor wires burnt out and shorted your ecm, I think your problem may be something else. Does the car start and run? I'm wondering how you came to the conclusion that its the ecm. Edited November 26, 2020 by Tehnation

heres someone who may have had a similar experience. His issue occured when he tried splicing in o2 extension

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ecm-replacement-and-p0032-281391.html

wait, you want to change your ecm because of a P0032 code?? Thats the code for your front o2 sensor, I would start there. Unless your o2 sensor wires burnt out and shorted your ecm, I think your problem may be something else. Does the car start and run? I'm wondering how you came to the conclusion that its the ecm.

 

 

Yes I know what the code is for, I’ve gone through the test plan for it that’s why I’m concluding with replacing the ecm. Yes the car starts and runs, just doesn’t run the way it’s supposed to.

 

 

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you check all those weird fuses in the engine bay? I did the same thing like in the post but with my MAF sensor and thought I borked my ecm, turns out it was only some fuse... 200 dollar dealership lesson to learn to always check fuses lol. You probably already did that... did you inspect that o2 sensor? You may run into the same issue again if it wasn't a bad o2 sensor.

the car starts and runs, just doesn’t run the way it’s supposed to.

 

Your ECU is fine. If your ECU was bad, the car would not run at all or ran very poorly. There would be visible damage to the circuit board.

 

I've replaced and coded an ECU, you will need the same exact number. To code the ECU is a complex process on its own...

Edited November 28, 2020 by leetdrv

have you taken any data logs as well? I agree with leetdrv, I was under the assumption that when the ecu bricked you would definitely know because you would get some weird error on the dashboard odometer, er hc, would be showing up and your car wouldn't be starting. Edited November 28, 2020 by Tehnation

I would inspect the ecu more closely , and look for actual physical damage before throwing it away.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fried-ecu-225372.html

Edited November 28, 2020 by Tehnation