Rod bearing failure?

Had all the local shops tell me around $500 to tear it apart and diagnose. I just need something reliable and from what I've heard this won't be it. I love the car and would rather not sell it, only bought it a year ago and put 8-9k on it. I just can't drop 3-5k into it only to have something else go in a few months.

 

https://youtu.be/vAzXYsptF4w

Edited November 27, 2020 by ohno06gt
Added video

To be honest it sounds like something in the timing area. The tensioner can make that noise. Takes 15 minutes to pull the drivers cover and look at it with a flashlight. When was the timing done last?

Supposedly the timing belt was done right before purchase 8-9k ago. Doubting that now because one shop said it doesn’t look like it was ever done. When first started the noise is silent but gets louder as it warms up.

Definitely need to check the tensioner, idler and belt.

Where is that located in the engine bay? Sounds loudest on the left side about mid way back.

Definitely sounds like it could be the tensioner. The drivers side timing cover needs to be pulled then start it and watch the belt on the top. There will be four 10mm bolts and the cover will come right off exposing the two cam gears and the belt. It’s the black plastic cover on the front of the engine

 

Different year car but same exact thing. I diagnosed a customers car where they had a bad knock after timing belt and thought they messed up timing and hit valves. They forgot to pull the pin on the tensioner.

Had all the local shops tell me around $500 to tear it apart and diagnose. I just need something reliable and from what I've heard this won't be it. I love the car and would rather not sell it, only bought it a year ago and put 8-9k on it. I just can't drop 3-5k into it only to have something else go in a few months.

 

https://youtu.be/vAzXYsptF4w

 

why would you pull or tear the motor apart to diagnose? that doesn't sound like rod failure, if it were rod failure the sound would be a lot deeper, and it would make you want to turn the car off right away, like if there was a marble bouncing around. Sounds like a loose valve, or something may be wrong with the timing or tensioner.

 

Dealership charges like 1hr of labor around $125 to diagnose problems I thought? Bring it to a dealer if you can't find a mechanic that knows what he's doing.

 

How would they know the condition of the timing belt if they didn't pull the timing belt covers? Did they charge you and do work or just look and assume? Who are you bringing your car to?

Edited November 28, 2020 by Tehnation

This is rod failure

 

 

Around 1:15

Here's a video Krispy Media did while driving across the country. His timing belt tensioner failed.

 

It does sound similar to rod knock. Take a listen.

why would you pull or tear the motor apart to diagnose? that doesn't sound like rod failure, if it were rod failure the sound would be a lot deeper, and it would make you want to turn the car off right away, like if there was a marble bouncing around. Sounds like a loose valve, or something may be wrong with the timing or tensioner.

 

Dealership charges like 1hr of labor around $125 to diagnose problems I thought? Bring it to a dealer if you can't find a mechanic that knows what he's doing.

 

How would they know the condition of the timing belt if they didn't pull the timing belt covers? Did they charge you and do work or just look and assume? Who are you bringing your car to?

 

I'd rather not pull it apart to diagnose but this is what I was told, they couldn't give me a proper quote without doing that. I have barely any mechanical knowledge so I'm just going by that.

 

Rick's Auto in Torrington Ct is the shop who said they pulled the pan and found metal shavings. They also said the bolts for the timing belt were never touched. They didn't charge me anything, car was there for a week. They also said it really isn't worth fixing.

 

Car was purchased from Abate Auto in Torrington, they did an oil change a week before it started so when the noise happened the car went there immediately. They told me $500 to diagnose.

Was ricks the same place that wanted to buy your car? Did they show you the shavings? I think they are blowing smoke up your ass. Go to a dealership pay the diagnostic fee and find out for sure. This is how shops steal cars from unsuspecting people! The dealership will tell you how much it will cost to diagnose the problem, i'm pretty sure thats a flat rate. Edited November 28, 2020 by Tehnation

Was ricks the same place that wanted to buy your car? Did they show you the shavings? I think they are blowing smoke up your ass. Go to a dealership pay the diagnostic fee and find out for sure. This is how shops steal cars from unsuspecting people! The dealership will tell you how much it will cost to diagnose the problem, i'm pretty sure thats a flat rate.

 

 

Yea they said it's worth around 2.5k but changed their mind, said they weren't interested but have a few people's numbers if we sell. So damn confusing.

 

I did not see the shavings. Never had a check engine light.

Here's a video Krispy Media did while driving across the country. His timing belt tensioner failed.

 

It does sound similar to rod knock. Take a listen.

 

That does sound very similar to what I'm hearing.

If your going to keep the car, you may want to learn some things or it will be costly sending it to the shop for every little thing. 1st thing I woulda done would be to check the oil, thats a huge indicator of bearing failure, but you missed the most crucial part and are at the mercy of possibly some morons word. The motors in these cars are worth more than the cars themselves, like 4k for a complete used motor. Pulling the timing covers is pretty straight forward.

 

You need to either be handy with your tools or have the cash flow, and if you have the cash flow, you can get a much better car lol without all the headaches.

 

I would find out what the real problem is first because it's obvious money is an issue, and the resale value of the car depends heavily on the motor working, working the car is worth like 5k+, not working like 2k. So it might make more sense to actually fix it, see if you still like it then sell it. But these cars aren't for the faint of heart, you gotta either know what your doing and how to keep the car well maintained or expect to start dropping $$$.

 

If you can't change your own oil or pull the timing covers to inspect the timing belt and timing, then you might want to reconsider this car, its more for the automotive enthusiast willing to get his hands dirty. If you want maintenance free, lol, this isn't the car.

Edited November 28, 2020 by Tehnation

you sell that car for 2500 without knowing the issue and you may leave 1000's on the table. And the next guy to own it will be laughing his ass off if all he has to do is change the timing belt for like 300 in parts, and end up with a car they can sell for 5k+. I think wagons sell for more even. 2500 seems high for a car with a blown motor..... I see them more for like 1.5k, maybe when you get more desperate he will "offer" to take it off your hands for less than 2500.

Yea that's why I'm most likely selling it. I can change the oil and do simple maintenance but right now don't even have the space to do that. Already purchased another vehicle and with winter fast approaching the legacy would have to be stored. I just don't want it to turn into a money pit.

 

Just breaks my heart seeing it sit there. The bolts on the timing belt cover are rusted to hell but I may take a shot away them today.

Also check your oil again. If you started it and ran it after it was "checked" by rick, then the oil should be fresh! Check the dipstick oil. Also if you ran it, drain the oil again, shavings don't just go away, they will be there especially if you ran it again. So you can check for yourself. I'd double check the oil first. Use the car jack, get a tub, wider the better. If YOU don't see any shavings or metal particulates then you might be in luck! If you don't feel comfortable, take a sample of your oil and mail it to some company and they will tell you for sure whats up! It's called blackstone i believe.

 

IF there is nothing wrong with your oil, then remove the timing covers, there are 3, you pull the ones on the end, then spin the crank to see if the double notch marks on the camshaft pulleys line up vertically, the top one double notches facing south, and the bottom one double notches facing north, then check to see if the belt marks lined up with single notches on the cams, if they are still there(if they aren't there then your timing belt probably hasn't been changed). If not, then pull it all apart. You will need to pull the accessory belts for the AC/steering pump and alternator. If you are mechanically inclined their mechanisms are pretty straight forward, basically loosen the bolts on the alternator tensioner and the ac tensioner. Then you have to remove the crank pulley, you need a big socket, 24 or 26mm i believe. Ahh... your gonna need real tools, like man tools lol. Nothing extreme but a breaker bar and a shaft if you need to extend the leverage to use the starter to break the crank pulley bolt, its a bitch and it spins cause its attached to the crankshaft. Try to avoid disconnecting the coolant hoses, because if the timing is still correct, and your oil is good, then have someone start it while you inspect the timing belt tensioner, you will know right away if its the issue or not, if you see it bouncing up and down its shot, and thats your issue, 70 dollar part.

Edited November 28, 2020 by Tehnation

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

If your intelligent and a diyer, there is more than enough information and resources on this site to explain in better detail pretty much everything with the 4th gen legacy, from maintenance to high performance modding.. The fsm is also floating around if you need it, we call them vacation pics!

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

Edited November 28, 2020 by Tehnation

Something to note here, it’s a 15 year old car. Even if it had low miles, the bushings, the plastics, the hoses, the seats all are 15 years old and time wears on all things. Subarus are plenty reliable and easy to learn and work on and parts are usually affordable. They are older and therefore require a more extensive maintenance routine that if you can do yourself isn’t all that expensive. Another thing about these cars is that they rarely break without some indicator that something isn’t right, so if you know what to look out for and listen to you can usually plan and research before they actually do break.

Yea that's why I'm most likely selling it. I can change the oil and do simple maintenance but right now don't even have the space to do that. Already purchased another vehicle and with winter fast approaching the legacy would have to be stored. I just don't want it to turn into a money pit.

 

Just breaks my heart seeing it sit there. The bolts on the timing belt cover are rusted to hell but I may take a shot away them today.

 

timing belt cover bolts are rusted LOL.... my friend you haven't seen rusted! I don't know what kind of rust could be on a bolt like that but I won't believe it without pics.... I don't see how a M8/m10 flange bolt could rust to such a degree. Like previous post its a 15 year old car!! Every bolt will probably have some rust on it! The rust your talking about on those bolts is purely cosmetic. Rust on your suspension components and body is an entirely different story!

 

If rick told you that your timing belt wasn't changed based on rusted timing belt cover bolts then I would run far away.... mechanics don't normally treat bolts, they take them out then put them back in, they aren't going to waste their time cleaning rust off bolts! The rust on those bolts should have no indication towards timing belt maintenance. Most of the bolts on my car has rust... its normal!

Here's some rusty bolts when I pulled my engine back in April 2012. I replaced the timing belt in 2008.

 

I have some time tomorrow so going to see what I can get myself into. At least get a good look at the oil and try to determine where the noise is coming from with a stethoscope. If I sell it or not I'd like to figure out what's going on with it.

 

Thanks for the input everyone. This place has so much information, just wish I had the tools and experience to put it to use.

One of the bolts snapped on the right timing belt cover but I was able to see in and it seemed like the timing belt was running smooth. This video is from a cold start, can't really pick it up on the microphone until I blip the throttle around 2:30.

https://youtu.be/HIn2ZkIoeKM

 

This is another 25 seconds of it running after warming up.

https://youtu.be/XxjhZ0kjRXY

 

Sounds like it's coming from under the intercooler to me. Friend said it sounded like an exhaust leak but wouldn't that get quieter as it warmed up not louder?

hards to say. but I would check the oil first, that will give you an indication right away. Buy a jug of oil 30 bucks, shop towels 5 bucks and a tub 5-10 bucks.