gathermewool Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 @ 55k miles in my Legacy FB25 it was pretty gunked up. I could hear the valve internals moving a little, but the new valve is night and day difference. That is NOT to say that the old valve was not working, but who is to say if it was working as well as it should or whether it would have gunked up enough to cause a problem any time soon. Part Number: 11810AA131 Dealer Cost: $22 Background: I'm replacing the starter in my '14 FXT, which requires removing the intercooler. I figured while I was in there I'd pull and check the PCV valve. I could barely hear any movement in the valve, even after soaking it overnight in carb cleaner. The Legacy's PCV valve was MUCH easier to remove! '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wi_legacy2016 Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 I'm only at 42k miles, but with the quarantine going on, I'm doing some more maintenance than I would be normally. Changed my PCV valve on my 3.6R and here are the two side by side. Pretty easy job - just gotta work around a few hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoney468 Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 I plan on doing this sometime soon, got the PCV valve on eBay from a local dealer for $16, currently at 80k miles so it’s probably time to have it done Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravy Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 This is a good PSA. My 2015 3.6r started burning about 1 quart of oil every 2k. The PCV valve had 50k, so I decided to make this the first step in troubleshooting. After 2k on the new part, not a drop of oil burned. Engine has 120k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aki334 Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 @ 55k miles in my Legacy FB25 it was pretty gunked up. I could hear the valve internals moving a little, but the new valve is night and day difference. That is NOT to say that the old valve was not working, but who is to say if it was working as well as it should or whether it would have gunked up enough to cause a problem any time soon. Part Number: 11810AA131 Dealer Cost: $22 Background: I'm replacing the starter in my '14 FXT, which requires removing the intercooler. I figured while I was in there I'd pull and check the PCV valve. I could barely hear any movement in the valve, even after soaking it overnight in carb cleaner. The Legacy's PCV valve was MUCH easier to remove! Did you guys notice how easy was to remove hose from the pcv valve, and was little harder to remove the hose from the top connection behind the TB? I would replace the hose since the heat from the engine transfers on the metal pcv and makes hose hard and not sealing tight comparing to the top where it attaches to the plastic nipple which does not see that much heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelj11103 Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 Was the PCV valve threaded all the way down, covering all the threads? I changed mine and I was only able to turn it a few times, leaving many threads visible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravy Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Same here. I wonder if there is a torque spec? Still not burning oil since I changed the part. Hoses are in good shape too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painless Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 (edited) Replaced mine on the '16 @ 80k. For Liquid gasket, I used Loctite 243 (comparable to Three bond 1324) Tightened to 18.4 ft-lb (as specified in the service manual). There were threads still showing. Now close to 200k and will replace again. Removed valve didn't seem gummed-up at all. Edited October 2, 2020 by Painless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelj11103 Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Thanks for the update Painless. After about 5k miles since I replaced my PVC, I took it out and tried to see if I could get it to thread further down. (This was before I read your comment, Painless). I used some carb cleaner on a paper towel and a battery terminal brush to try and get the threads clean. I took the PVC Valve out because when I put it in, I forgot to use liquid gasket. When I was pulling the hose out, the hose cracked so I ordered a new one. The end where the PCV valve is, the hose was very hard compared to the other side. The PVC valve also had a small trace of oil outside the valve at the base, probably due to not using liquid gasket. It seemed like I was able to get it a little further down this time not still threads are showing. Torqued it down to 25Nm and let sit for ~24 hours for liquid gasket to cure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravy Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 Replaced mine on the '16 @ 80k. For Liquid gasket, I used Loctite 243 (comparable to Three bond 1324) Tightened to 18.4 ft-lb (as specified in the service manual). There were threads still showing. Now close to 200k and will replace again. Removed valve didn't seem gummed-up at all. Thanks for the torque spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painless Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 My post from a while back which includes pdf of the service manual referencing replacement. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/pcv-valve-275628.html?t=275628&highlight=PCV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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