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no power after engine work


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new to the forum, had some unfortunate luck the other day driving on the highway and my 91 2.2 turbo snapped an idler pulley. i went through the timing process and other minor pcv repairs to finally get the car back together and have a new issue arise:mad:. i went to start the car, opened the door the automatic seat belt still worked but when i went to turn the ignition found no lights or anything coming from the cluster or dash. went to jump the car thinking it was just a simple issue coming to find out the battery is perfectly charged. after a few rechecks on the work i performed under the hood i began to check fuses and wires for possible loose connection. still looking for a possible culprit thinking possibly it could be the ignition relay, but wanted some second opinions. any help is much appreciated

thanks,

connor

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Hello;

First check the battery connections, ground wire to starter and body. Positive wire to starter and main fuse block and the ground wire to body and the back of engine. Check the fusible link and fuses in the main electrical box. Next on the list would be the ignition switch and then the main relay. The switch controls the relay! Good luck, Steven.

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solved, found the fusible link broken inside the protective layers, i really appreciate the help. now i've got the car running but am flashing for code 13 and 22 one being a cam angle sensor and the other being a knock sensor for the right side. i pulled the timing back apart and seem to have slipped a half tooth or so on the 2 and 4 camshaft. been trying to get it timed again but seems to always be off timing after cranking the engine over back to the timing marks. the right cam next to the tensioner always seems to slip, have any ideas on that possibly?

thanks again, connor

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A half tooth off is fine because of the variation of the timing cover notches and the belt. Anything over a tooth or two is bad though.

 

Knock sensor is an easy fix. Get a cheap eBay one. They work great in my experience and are about $10-15. Replace that and see what codes you are still getting after resetting your ecu.

 

Make sure your cam sensor is clean and the housing is tight. They can go bad so if your problem persists replace the sensor with a salvage sensor or new if you are mr moneybags.

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I appreciate the advice, ive been pretty worried about the half tooth deal but i decided to put it back together, as for all the codes and lights i found the lasting memory connector accidentally still connected. Didnt really know about the check engine light connector or anything until earlier this evening. Ever since though its been running great no cel or issues other wise.
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