I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 23, 2014 I Donated Share Posted September 23, 2014 Its been awhile since I've posted. Here is what I've been up to 1995 LSi 5MT conversion w/ 4.11 gears 215/75/15 BFG AT tires FULL Outback conversion (spacers, steering, control arms, links, EVERYTHING) Custom roof rack Removed front bumper 2 inch HDPE strut spacers I bought this car as an automatic with a bad transmission. It sat really low when I first got it (just like any LSi). I made 2 inch HDPE strut spacers to add more lift to it. It is just about perfect height now. I might do an additional two inches at some point, but as of now it goes everywhere I want it to go. Other than that, I'm going to do the EE20 swap at some point (Subaru diesel) and vlsd in the rear. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/1970551_10152677245063326_1244005561171300985_n_zpsb0ba941a.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10653699_10152662838028326_8683728960284862234_n_zps9c631222.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10590662_10152665166113326_6611789375872700671_n_zps5fb47fd9.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10547484_10152600207308326_8225393175542843334_n_zpsa452edc9.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/15407_10152665197243326_4876927575621193835_n_zpsf6a17f69.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10625162_10152662834283326_3565359143772527185_n_zps76dace83.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10647101_10152665197673326_1815072333575225106_n_zps6065b492.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10653276_10152665196213326_4262526568565903979_n_zps650918cb.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10665229_10152660193643326_2145094792419557898_n_zpsd2262d83.jpg -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryo Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 awesome, thanks for sharing Dave [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 23, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted September 23, 2014 I posted quite some time ago about the AT / MT identifier pin on the ECU. I tried 3 different pins without any luck. Can anyone tell me what pin it is for sure on the 1995LSi? The ECU is still looking for an automatic but since one isn't there its throwing a 1702 code or some crap like that. I have the ECU fooled into thinking its always in neutral - therefor its allowing me to start the car and drive it...but my open/closed loop fueling is all screwed up, it eats gas like nobodys business (see gas cans on roof?), and it idles at 1100rpm.....oh yeah - idle to about 2000rpms has almost no power. If I stop on a steep hill off road there is no getting moving again unless I roll back to the bottom and try again LOL I need to figure out the electrical end of this swap so my car runs right LOL -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 that rack you made looks good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudewerx Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 awesome job man. Good luck with the electrical issues God knows I've had my fair share lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 23, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted September 23, 2014 that rack you made looks good The sunroof is still operational too! lol -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 I posted quite some time ago about the AT / MT identifier pin on the ECU. I tried 3 different pins without any luck. Can anyone tell me what pin it is for sure on the 1995LSi? The ECU is still looking for an automatic but since one isn't there its throwing a 1702 code or some crap like that. I have the ECU fooled into thinking its always in neutral - therefor its allowing me to start the car and drive it...but my open/closed loop fueling is all screwed up, it eats gas like nobodys business (see gas cans on roof?), and it idles at 1100rpm.....oh yeah - idle to about 2000rpms has almost no power. If I stop on a steep hill off road there is no getting moving again unless I roll back to the bottom and try again LOL I need to figure out the electrical end of this swap so my car runs right LOL here is the grounding to the ecu from the engine, there is a MT only at pin 50, does yours have a connection there? http://i59.tinypic.com/2ljgi82.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 i must really be bored at work today. instead of programming im reading wiring schematics for cars. heres another that shows the link between the TCU and the TPS. could be why your idle is borked? http://i59.tinypic.com/313io0n.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 24, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted September 24, 2014 I'm pretty certain it all comes back to the identifier pin and the neutral switch. My neutral switch at the clutch is there but not wired in. Also the way I have it wired now makes the ECU think the car is always in neutral or park (jumped two wires on the transmission harness). Electrical isn't really my thing so it's difficult for me....and not being able to find the correct diagrams makes it even harder. For 1995, both Alldata and the FSM are wrong about the identifier pin on the ECU. I just need a wiring genius to come do this for me lol -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 dude, im still getting the P1702 also, the 95 is a nightmare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 24, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted September 24, 2014 dude, im still getting the P1702 also, the 95 is a nightmare I agree. If proper wiring diagrams were available it wouldn't be so bad. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 that makes me scared to switch out my 95 to 5mt, and why i still look for the answer to this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 25, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted September 25, 2014 Getting it to run is easy as cake. Mine has ran reliably since I did it....its just the idle and the 1702 code that are hard to solve. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 sme here..the only two codes ive been throwing over the last 15ish months since the swap is the PO505 and that P1702 everything else is perfect aside from intermittent stalling at stops and hard braking.. recently my car has been taking sooo many cranks to start, sometimes it wont, replaced the cam sensor already so im wondering if it's related to this somehow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 26, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted September 26, 2014 Im also using a 96 Outback 5mt steering column. The column from the LSi was too long after I put in the subframe spacers (imagine that lol) and caused the intermediate shaft to bind up when turning. Whats the 505 code? -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Having the same M/T identifier issue on both the 95's I have swapped. Pain in the ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 28, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted September 28, 2014 -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 2, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted October 2, 2014 So I fabricated and installed the 2 inch strut spacers about a month or so ago. I think they are adding too extreme of an angle to everything. I did 2 inches because I've read in a few places that 2 inches is the maximum "safe" spacer to use before you need to start dropping everything else down too. Keep in mind, my entire driveline is all Outback stuff. I have the Outback subframe spacers, trailing arms / brackets, crossmembers, etc. EVERYTHING under the car is Outback. On my first off road trip I broke the strut mount on the front passenger tire. The center of the mount broke out so the spring was still retained. I rigged up a ratchet tie down strap to act as a limiter strap so at full droop that strut was still held together instead of just falling out again. I was able to complete the rest of the 20 miles on the trail (it was a fairly difficult trail that most people don't even both going on unless they have a lifted Jeep) without further issues. I bought a complete set of Outback takeoffs (struts, springs, and strut mounts) and installed them. See the pictures below. Take not of how far out the wheel is cambered on the passenger side. Today I changed my oil. When I jacked up my car the freaking entire wheel fell down like it did before when I broke the strut mount. Sure as hell I broke the strut mount again.....it even happened on the same freaking wheel! Also while I was under the car I noticed the inner boot on my drivers side front CV axle was torn apart. These axles are newish (I took them from my old Outback. They are about 2 years old. They were aftermarket NEW axles). I think I need to drop the subframes, control arms, and trailing arms down another two inches to get all the driveline angles back to the factory angle. I'm destroying suspension parts at an astronomical rate. I can't afford to keep breaking all this shit LOL. I'm going to be taking off the 2 inch spacers for now (can't afford to build the spacers for everything else right now)....unless anyone has any other suggestions? I've been thinking about making limiter straps so my suspension stops about half an inch short of full droop so I don't break any more strut mounts, but I don't know what to use to make the straps....and I'm not sure where the best place to attach them would be. I'm open to ideas for that as well. I'm a fan of DIY so I don't want to just go buy straps. I would rather make something myself. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10710833_10152665198823326_2312481931073254815_n_zps81e65c84.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10653742_10152665199348326_4424174803839921284_n_zpsdc5519c7.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10171124_10152665199033326_9081705533504149153_n_zps960ce93a.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10348372_10152665199133326_4899364950428177288_n_zps5afa7df2.jpg -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 4, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted October 4, 2014 I've decided to keep the lift spacers on. I kind of played with things and watched the axles and strut mounts as I jacked the car. I welded a little bracket to the end of a chain so I could attach the chain to the subframe bolt and then bolted the other end of the chain to the swaybar endlink thing on the control arm. I lost about an inch of travel going down, but it seems to be keeping stress off of my strut mounts and axles. I'm going on a big off road run tomorrow (we are doing a 90 mile trip on trails) so we will see how it holds up. Worst case if I break another strut mount then the chain will still hold things together. Here is a picture of my limiting strap (chain). Also for random entertainment a picture of both my 95 Legacy LSi parked next to each other. Its hard to see how much my white one really is lifted until its parked next to a stock one lol http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10174860_10152706454018326_6966317934269896945_n_zpscae26d42.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/10696437_10152661628893326_6535509028219361894_n_zps9f54bf32.jpg -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PingPong Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 How do you think the extended travel affects the strut mounts? If anything, I would imagine the ball joints popping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 6, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted October 6, 2014 I keep breaking strut mounts so I had to make limiters so the suspension wouldn't reach full droop (see chain picture above on the control arm). Damage seems to happen at full droop only. Ball joints seem to be surviving just fine so far. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 11, 2014 Author I Donated Share Posted October 11, 2014 I talked with Brian from iWire. He advised that on the 95 the identifier pin is pin 30 on the B28 connector. I'll be giving that a shot to see how it goes. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teranaut Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 That lifted LSi is something else. Great work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 14, 2015 Author I Donated Share Posted September 14, 2015 Update on the roof rack - My roof didn't like it and has two big cracks in it coming from the rear legs of the rack lol. oops time to weld -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digdug18 Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 So the legs are puncturing holes through the roof, or the weight and constant work hardening of the metal is causing stress fractures of the metal? Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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