5eat center diffrential bulletproofing how to

Alright David how much do you want for you to do this to my tranny?

I can get extras made and sell them off to folks such as yourself. Who else wants in?

How much would they cost? Might as well throw my hat in!

Might be in depending on cost

Looking to buy 1? just for the diff not the rest of the transmission

i'm interested depending on cost..... i'm also not sure about installing it myself.

I will update this thread when I get a better idea of cost per set of four bearings. It's not super hard to install these. Just takes time and care.

subscribed for bearing info...

I would be interested. Would like to cost of parts, and what time would be to install. I would have it done a shop. just want an idea of labour that would be involved.

climber D your all over the place. I would also like to get info/order these

I'm calling a few machine shops right now. It hasn't been the highest priority for me to do this yet, but I'll try to get the ball rolling a little faster.

yea I am more focused on the 5EAT mod your working on, but I figure the next thing after the VB is going to have to be the center dif. If I can do both at the same time, it would be much better!

Unfortunately there is no overlapping work between the valve body and the center diff, so they could be done at the same time or separately, all the same.

I meant that I would already be under the car and full of grease...lol

You have a point.

I am talking with a couple machine shops to see what they want to make these for us.

i think if i do this mod i will do the following.

 

make the OD of the bushing .0001 or .0002 larger then the diameter of the gear then heat the gear and press the frozen bearing into the gear.

then ream the bushing to the right size for the pin

 

reason

if the is no real oiling to the out side of the bushing then it could tend to gall and may even make metal and that is not what i want in my trany. if were going to switch to a plain bearing lets do it like a real plain bearing

 

other thoughts

this may be over kill but if were going to be looking at ths then overkill is the name of the game

 

now when it comes to what alloy bronze to use that i have no idea...

Edited April 27, 2011 by tailgatewagon

I am of the same thought, do it overkill. Some are not, but I enjoy overkill. Put a flame to the gear. Put the bushing in the freezer. Lightly tap them together, or slide by hand one in the other. As for ID of bearing, I'm leaning to +.004 to +.005 since it works well for the divider. If you're going to order parts anyways, might as well order ideal measurements. But I still want them easy to install.

i think if i do this mod i will do the following.

 

make the OD of the bushing .0001 or .0002 larger then the diameter of the gear then heat the gear and press the frozen bearing into the gear.

then ream the bushing to the right size for the pin

 

reason

if the is no real oiling to the out side of the bushing then it could tend to gall and may even make metal and that is not what i want in my trany. if were going to switch to a plain bearing lets do it like a real plain bearing

 

other thoughts

this may be over kill but if were going to be looking at ths then overkill is the name of the game

 

now when it comes to what alloy bronze to use that i have no idea...

 

hardened gear to brass won't gall galling only happens with like metals.

the only particals if it did wear would be brass and brass particles won't hurt any tranny components. and the whole area is going to be slung with oil all the time.

Frankster is right.

 

Also, a ten-thousandths interference doesn't require cooling and heating to press. A ten-thousandths will probably slide together by hand. If you want to do a proper shrink fit, you need an interference of several thousandths. For a gear-drive system I did a few years ago, I did a 0.007 interference fit that required heating of the gear and cooling of the shaft (accomplished by spraying the shaft with an air-duster turned upside down). Even then, a high level of precision is required when pressing. It's not just something you can throw together by hand.

 

For this application, a shrink-fit isn't necessary. A simple press-fit would be sufficient and would decrease unnecessary stress in the bushing.

 

As for "reaming" the bushing out, that's not typically good practice for a bearing surface. You want a micro-polished and true surface. Ideally, you'd order precision ID stock, turn the OD on a high-speed lathe, then polish the OD and press fit the bushing. Finish it off by trimming the excess and finishing the ends on a lathe.

This is all news to me, I know nothing about engineering.

 

Between the ATF oiling orifices in the pins, and the fact a center diff doesn't turn much, these shouldn't get a lot of wear. I'm more worried about point loading or whatever it is, since these per Frank_ster's example, will each see 500ft-lbd of torque.

 

One machine shop already declined my bid due to being at full capacity on their CNC lathes. We'll see about this second company I have in the works.

Alright guys,

 

Pre-Order Time!

 

I just got a quote in for $200 shipped and paypal'd in the continental USA for a set of 4 of these Center Diff Bulletproofing Bushings, at premium quality. (Calculated at 4 sets in this order, though hopefully we get more like 20 orders!) I know it's not cheap, but read on.

 

The price includes a ream for our group order, which would be custom ordered to an exact inside diameter specification to bore out the bushing. The ream would produce a superior inside bore finish to a drill.

 

For the outside diameter, the machine shop guy will work with me to figure out (down to 0.0001") precisely what outside bushing diameter will allow us to put the bushing in your household freezer and put a small flame to the gear, to thus allow the bushing to drop right into the gear and later be mildly snug when the two return to regular temperature. This will be done so that you can install these at home without a press, and can still hammer tap them out later if you ever decide to.

 

The length will also be to exacting tolerances.

 

The machine shop guy has very precise machinery, so that allows us to precisely nail every tolerance; a bit of a bonus.

 

The more people willing to buy, the lower the price will get. The material is not cheap, but becomes cheap if lots of us get in on this. Same for labor. Shipping is USPS Priority w/ tracking, payment through paypal is fine or $5 discount if paid with a personal check.

 

Please post if you are OK at this price and want to be put down for a set. I'll create a separate Group Buy thread if this picks up steam.

 

Edit: Also requires metal gasket for transmission case to main case, Part # 31496AA010.

Edited April 27, 2011 by ClimberD@HexMods

I'm getting one set for myself.

I thought this could be done for 100? Do we need 4 of them?

alright a couple questions...

 

to clarify, it is $200 for one set of bushings. you got the $200 quote for purchasing 4 sets (so 4 people), correct? More people (sets), cheaper price?

 

If I were to need this installed by a shop, what am I looking at for labor costs? And if I'm the type of person who needs this installed by a shop, do you think I even need a set? I'm guessing the whole center diff needs to be taken apart and then reassembled...

alright a couple questions...

 

To clarify, it is $200 for one set of bushings. You got the $200 quote for purchasing 4 sets (so 4 people), correct? More people (sets), cheaper price?

 

If i were to need this installed by a shop, what am i looking at for labor costs? And if i'm the type of person who needs this installed by a shop, do you think i even need a set? I'm guessing the whole center diff needs to be taken apart and then reassembled...

+1