Only 1st and 3rd gear

Pulled the trans pan on our 95 L wagon and found what looks like a piece of a broken brake band. I've since been driving it around and it only shifts from 1 to 3.

 

Question is.

 

How long can/should or shouldn't I drive it like this? Obviously gas mileage is going to go down and the car is suppose to shift higher. Buuuut. It's old. Don't really care to replace the trans at the moment. And I'd rather use it for a camp wagon until it just dies. She's got about 180k and the motor actually still runs nice minus a few small oil leaks.

 

Any thoughts appreciated. I understand it's not proper to drive it this way. But would it be "ok"?

It's kind of a crap shoot, from my transmission experience, they don't follow any predictable pattern. Mine just grenaded itself at a stand still light with no warning, I'd have thought it would have started getting bad and progressively gotten worse, but nope.

It's kind of a crap shoot, from my transmission experience, they don't follow any predictable pattern. Mine just grenaded itself at a stand still light with no warning, I'd have thought it would have started getting bad and progressively gotten worse, but nope.

 

Dang. I was hoping someone had been in a similar situation and driven it for years haha. I guess it's time for a AAA membership and a roll of the dice.

 

Is it hard to replace the trans on these?

Dang. I was hoping someone had been in a similar situation and driven it for years haha. I guess it's time for a AAA membership and a roll of the dice.

 

Is it hard to replace the trans on these?

 

Not hard. It can be done in about a day or two.

 

Put the car up on all 4's as high as you can get your jackstands to go, remove the front wheels and pull the axles, unbolt the center axle and remove it from the trans, drop your exhaust and unbolt it from the catback section, remove the starter, remove the torque converter bolts from the access panel under the intake, disconnect the trans cooler lines, unhook the shifter cable, should be one wire on the harness, 4 bolts on the bellhousing, and a couple for the trans mount, support it with a jack and a flat piece of wood and slide that bad boy out. Assembly is the reverse. I've done the removal in about an hour and a half.

Not hard. It can be done in about a day or two.

 

Put the car up on all 4's as high as you can get your jackstands to go, remove the front wheels and pull the axles, unbolt the center axle and remove it from the trans, drop your exhaust and unbolt it from the catback section, remove the starter, remove the torque converter bolts from the access panel under the intake, disconnect the trans cooler lines, unhook the shifter cable, should be one wire on the harness, 4 bolts on the bellhousing, and a couple for the trans mount, support it with a jack and a flat piece of wood and slide that bad boy out. Assembly is the reverse. I've done the removal in about an hour and a half.

 

That doesn't sound bad at all. Is there any trick to hold the TC when removing the bolts? Current plan is to get in touch with some parts yards for a used trans and drive it as is during times I can afford to call for a ride or tow if she bang she bang.

 

I've been driving it all around town as a parts getter with no problem. But it'd be nice if it had all the gears again haha

It helps A LOT to remove the intake from the engine in order to get lots of access to the torque converter bolts. Or at least take it loose and scoot it away from the access port. Just for reference, if you are going to find a donor to swap the trans from that'll save you more because my rebuild bill was $2500 and that's about average for a Subaru trans rebuild

Not exactly related, but I had a Mazda 626 that lost drive. I drove it around for more than a year with just 1-2 and later just 2 while trying to locate a donor. (Same trans as the Ford Probe "race car" so there was a big shortage of donor parts)

 

Not my first time around, but I pulled an engine to do the clutch, wasted some time running about and eating, and still had it back on the road in 12 hours.

 

The worst part about the trans is that it's under the car. Definitely get it up as high as you can safely.

 

When I pulled my trans I pulled the engine and took the trans out that way, but that was because I have an engine crane and I don't have a concrete area to securely raise it that high.

It helps A LOT to remove the intake from the engine in order to get lots of access to the torque converter bolts. Or at least take it loose and scoot it away from the access port. Just for reference, if you are going to find a donor to swap the trans from that'll save you more because my rebuild bill was $2500 and that's about average for a Subaru trans rebuild

 

That's not too hard either. Just trying to keep the hours put into it low. It's going to defiantly get a used trans. She's not exactly the prettiest or best in shape car. But. I can't seem to part with the green machine and 2500 is a way newer/nicer old legacy around these parts. Although I do love the 2.2

Not exactly related, but I had a Mazda 626 that lost drive. I drove it around for more than a year with just 1-2 and later just 2 while trying to locate a donor. (Same trans as the Ford Probe "race car" so there was a big shortage of donor parts)

 

Not my first time around, but I pulled an engine to do the clutch, wasted some time running about and eating, and still had it back on the road in 12 hours.

 

The worst part about the trans is that it's under the car. Definitely get it up as high as you can safely.

 

When I pulled my trans I pulled the engine and took the trans out that way, but that was because I have an engine crane and I don't have a concrete area to securely raise it that high.

 

Haha so there's hope I might be able to make it through camping season as is! I also thought about pulling the engine as well. If I do that then I might as well rebuild the whole dang thing honestly. Keep it on the road and looking fugly forever. Haha

If you have the 2.2, that thing will go damn near forever as long as you keep maintaining it.

 

Like Brighton said, it helps to remove the intake, or at least shift it forward if you don't want to take it entirely off. I have a flex head ratchet and a short 12mm socket that fits perfect behind the intake in that small area. I did it on my girlfriend's LL Bean. Granted its a little different design, but the concept is the same. I didn't want to pull that intake off to do it, so I just pulled off the throttle body instead and the flex head ratchet worked perfect.

 

In regards to keeping the flexplate from moving when you try to loosen them, take a 7/8" half inch drive socket and a breaker bar and put it on the crank pulley and prop it on the frame rail. You can also use it to move the flexplate for the next bolt.

If you have the 2.2, that thing will go damn near forever as long as you keep maintaining it.

 

Like Brighton said, it helps to remove the intake, or at least shift it forward if you don't want to take it entirely off. I have a flex head ratchet and a short 12mm socket that fits perfect behind the intake in that small area. I did it on my girlfriend's LL Bean. Granted its a little different design, but the concept is the same. I didn't want to pull that intake off to do it, so I just pulled off the throttle body instead and the flex head ratchet worked perfect.

 

In regards to keeping the flexplate from moving when you try to loosen them, take a 7/8" half inch drive socket and a breaker bar and put it on the crank pulley and prop it on the frame rail. You can also use it to move the flexplate for the next bolt.

 

The 2.2 and sentimental value are why it's still around and probably going to get fixed. The girlfriend used it as a courier car and it's been literally ALL over our state and never let us down even now with two gears (she doesnt use it for work anymore) I was totally thinking the breaker bar deal would work. That's how I tightened the bolts when I had to take the t belt off for an oil pump gasket. After my first engine rebuild (the 2.5 turbo) I'm realizing how much easier these ones are and I'm loving it!

 

Oh and as always. Many many thanks for the input and tips!

 

One more thing. Do the axles need to be completely removed or can they stay in the hubs and be removed at just the trans? Have yet to do a CV on these cars but am familiar with the process on others aside from the roll pin.

There might be a little bit of give in the outer joint enough to slide the axle off of the output shaft in the transmission. If not, you could just remove the two bolts on the strut and remove the steering arm. If you do remove the two bolts on the strut, mark the position of the top on because that adjusts your camber. You'll reduce your chances of needing an alignment if you do.

There might be a little bit of give in the outer joint enough to slide the axle off of the output shaft in the transmission. If not, you could just remove the two bolts on the strut and remove the steering arm. If you do remove the two bolts on the strut, mark the position of the top on because that adjusts your camber. You'll reduce your chances of needing an alignment if you do.

 

Awesome. Might give it a shot that way just to see if it's do able. Sometimes it's easier to not dismantle everything. Sometimes I end up tearing it all apart anyway!

I got my trans out without splitting the knuckles or ball joints. I did have the engine out already and was able to move the trans an inch or so left to make room to remove the right and vice versa. I don't think it would clear without that movement. But taking the ball joint out of the control arm with the pinch bolt is super easy when it's time to do an axle. No alignment issues. (That pinch bolt has to come all the way out as it passes through a divot in the body of the ball joint.)

I got my trans out without splitting the knuckles or ball joints. I did have the engine out already and was able to move the trans an inch or so left to make room to remove the right and vice versa. I don't think it would clear without that movement. But taking the ball joint out of the control arm with the pinch bolt is super easy when it's time to do an axle. No alignment issues. (That pinch bolt has to come all the way out as it passes through a divot in the body of the ball joint.)

 

This is probably the route I'm going to take. Going the engine out way. Does that make it easier to align the trans and motor? As in. I'm going to take the engine out. Then the trans. Replace the trans. Then engine back in?

 

Seems like it might be easier than jacking the trans back up and trying to fit everything together from under the car.

 

Still contacting recyclers and checking craigslist for bad motor cars to hunt down a trans. Not really in any big hurry either way.

 

Side note.

 

Does anyone have any experience with the 2.5 short block/22 head builds? I have a short block from my xt just sitting in the garage and thought it might be a fun build.

Side note.

 

Does anyone have any experience with the 2.5 short block/22 head builds? I have a short block from my xt just sitting in the garage and thought it might be a fun build.

 

Definitely would be a fun build, but I'd use the EJ25D heads instead of the 22 heads. Better flowing, dual port exhaust, and loves the boost.

Definitely would be a fun build, but I'd use the EJ25D heads instead of the 22 heads. Better flowing, dual port exhaust, and loves the boost.

 

Oh yeah I could have included it'd be NA. The XT block. With NA pistons and the 22 heads to raise compression a bit and just bolt it back to the old mani. If i find out that will even work. Or else. Just refreshing the stock motor and a used trans.

If you have an engine crane with the tilt adjuster thing it is quite easy to go -engine, -trans, +trans, +engine. When un/mating the engine to trans it helps to raise the trans with a floor jack 1.5 to 2 inches in front.

If you have an engine crane with the tilt adjuster thing it is quite easy to go -engine, -trans, +trans, +engine. When un/mating the engine to trans it helps to raise the trans with a floor jack 1.5 to 2 inches in front.

 

Awesome! Appreciate the input on that. I do indeed have a hoist/crane/puller whatever name it's called haha. And a load leveler. I think I pulled the last one from the ac bracket and some other deal towards the back.

 

Jacking the front of the trans=bellhousing area where the two studs are?

 

So. If the motor is out. Axles are disconnected. Drive shaft is disconnected. Is it only the cross member holding the trans in?

There is a lift ring on the back of the engine diagonal from the A/C bracket. Perfect balance.

 

I put wood under the trans about as far forward as possible with the cross member there and jack. It's back of the bell housing edge with the studs. Motor out and jacking is preceded by taking out the dog bone mount. With engine out and axles out there is a trans cross member and the shaft holding it I think. Plus the bell housing sits on the engine cross member. I supported the trans on a jack or two and removed the trans mount cross member. I already had straps around it ahead of the axles, and as far back as I could reasonably go to lift with engine crane. It isn't hard to support the output area while bringing it forward when done this way.

 

Finally, for Dog's sake put a sheet of plywood over the condenser for engine out and trans out and don't forget. Put the wood there as early as possible and don't take it out until you absolutely have to. I took mine out and forgot to put it back. Then I poked a little hole in my condenser with a sharp corner on the bell housing. Then I completely rebuilt my entire A/C system including buying all the tools.

Ok. All excellent little bits of information to get prepared. I really appreciate it!

 

Bummer to hear about the condenser! If it makes ya feel any better. I bent one of the trans cooler lines connecting to the radiator while dropping mine back in after a key way/oil pump install. Thought it was fine. Fired it up. Then. Psshhhhsststtssssss shhahhshshshsssss. ATF ALL OVER!!! Luckily this is CO and we have a ton of subarus in the parts yards. Haha

 

I'll for sure be covering the condenser. Or I'll slide the trans back and out. I'm mostly pulling the engine to either refresh it or build a hybrid. Plus it'll be easier with all of the space to see what's going or not going on.

Oh, one thing to watch out for, and I don't think there is an easy way to avoid this.

 

When I took out my trans cross member, one of the internal captive nuts (welded in) broke loose. Had to drill it out, and then I had to locate the point in the floor pan by the brake pedal and hole saw a 1 1/4 hole. That way I could get to the top end to bolt it all back up. Not my favorite, but I didn't have to total out the car over it.

Oh, one thing to watch out for, and I don't think there is an easy way to avoid this.

 

When I took out my trans cross member, one of the internal captive nuts (welded in) broke loose. Had to drill it out, and then I had to locate the point in the floor pan by the brake pedal and hole saw a 1 1/4 hole. That way I could get to the top end to bolt it all back up. Not my favorite, but I didn't have to total out the car over it.

 

I'll certainly keep that in mind. There's always something that comes up with older cars I swear! Fingers crossed for no grinding, drilling or pulling the EZ out kit out.

 

A couple more questions.

 

Would it be that hard to replace the brake band? I can't find a good download of a fsm or diagram that clearly shows it or how hard it is to get to.

 

Also. If I venture into parts unknown and do use this block from the xt. Everything I'm reading says every subaru block will bolt up to most any transmission aside for a few bolt holes. 4 vs 8?

 

We'll see how it all goes but I'm getting more and more tempted to use the ej257 block ej22 heads. Leave the old pistons and turbo this thing. If possible.

 

I'd just swap the flex plate to the back of the 2.5 and possibly in theory it might work?

I'm alright at turning a wrench, but I don't know much at all about mixing and matching. I think pretty well any trans made for an EJ will bolt up to pretty much any EJ. Might be more/fewer bolts and dowels between a <200 HP EJ vs >200. But I doubt you could take your car and bolt an FA or an EZ in it.

 

I'm not sure what you mean with the brake band, but you should look around for my Vacation Pictures. A bunch of the pictures have been lost to dead links, but keep trying and you should find some nice shots.

As a side note - make sure that the front diff has the same gearing or you will need to replace the rear diff as well. Not a huge added effort, but still.

 

And before installing the new gearbox - replace the seals where the shafts goes out.