How To Clock A FP68HTA

**m sprank** · May 3, 2010

The FP68HTA is one of the most popular turbos available for the WRX/STi/LGT right now.

If you are planning on installing one in a 2007+ LGT there is a small fitment issue that needs to be corrected before install.

I will walk you through.

On the 2007+ LGT's there is the infamous air pump system. A secondary solonoid and atmospheric pressure sensor reside on the passenger side of the motor under the manifold. It is the first pic.

If you install the 68HTA it will hit the electrical connector and not allow installation of the coupler. There are ways to force it, but it causes pic 2, 3 and 4. Crushed electrical connector (and a hole in the coupler too).

So, lets walk through how to properly clock a FP68HTA so that it can be installed without hitting the sensor.

The FP68HTA from my car.

First, remove the wastegate actuator. 1 c-clip and two 10mm bolts.

Next remove the band clamp.

With the band clamp removed you can separate the two halves of the turbo. They pull apart very easily.

**m sprank** · May 3, 2010

Now you can see the retaining in on the outlet side. This in is stopping the outlet side from rotating.

You can also see the large snap ring holing the "guts" into the housing.

The snap ring is large and you can remove it with standard ring pliers, but heavy duty ones will make the job easier. Either way a second set of hands in useful for removal.

With the ring removed we can now separate the "guts" from the housing completely.

This exposes the pin on the inlet side that is stopping the inlet side from rotating.

Time to get crazy with the dremel.

I used a standard heavy duty cutting wheel (part #420) to grind down both pins. Be very careful on the inlet side as the aluminum is soft.

**m sprank** · May 3, 2010

You can now see that the retaining pins have been ground down sufficiently to allow both haves of the housing to rotate independently.

Time to reinstall the "guts" and snap ring. On this application it is the inlet side we need to rotate. So, I rotate the inlet before re-installing the snap ring.

Since the outlet side needs no rotating I mark the edge where the in was with a sharpie. I then mark the opposite edger where the hole is with a sharpie. I line up the two hash marks and re-install the retaining ring.

Now all the oil and coolant lines are still at the proper position and my 68HTA is clocked enough to install with good clearance.

Make sure not to over clock the turbo as this can cause the wastegate to bind. The turbo clocks further than the wastegate.

I hope this helps someone else.