Looking at a '99 Outback

I'm looking to replace my 1997 Outback (thread) with snapped timing belt and rust everywhere with this '99 that's for sale near me. I have quite a few mods done on the old car that can be transferred over like Limited interior, jdm heads and taillights as well as BBS sti wheels.

I know that the owner has not done head gaskets or timing belt but other than that, what should i be looking for when i inspect the car?

It looks good in the pictures but I'd definitely try to get it on a lift to inspect it prior to buying it, most buyers won't have a problem with you doing that. Things to look for: bubbling or through rust in the rear wheelwells (look up inside the wheelwells), rust on the inner pinch seam on the bottom of the doors, milky crap under the oil filler cap and bubbling in the overflow tank, also check the date on the underside of the oil filler cap to see if it matches with the car. That date is usually within 6 months of the cars build date. Look to see what's been replaced or newer, check the back of the motor on the passenger side to see if there is oil residue on the motor and cross member. Also when you go to drive it, pay attention to any noises while its cold and then see if those noises remain once it's up to temp, and then last thing I'd look for is how it shifts from park to reverse and park to drive. If it drops hard into gear and then also shifts hard then I'd suspect a trans or diff mount, if it only shifts hard while driving then I'd say the trans needs some attention.

Also sell me your old front fenders! I need them for a widebody kit for my 2nd gen

It looks good in the pictures but I'd definitely try to get it on a lift to inspect it prior to buying it, most buyers won't have a problem with you doing that. Things to look for: bubbling or through rust in the rear wheelwells (look up inside the wheelwells), rust on the inner pinch seam on the bottom of the doors, milky crap under the oil filler cap and bubbling in the overflow tank, also check the date on the underside of the oil filler cap to see if it matches with the car. That date is usually within 6 months of the cars build date. Look to see what's been replaced or newer, check the back of the motor on the passenger side to see if there is oil residue on the motor and cross member. Also when you go to drive it, pay attention to any noises while its cold and then see if those noises remain once it's up to temp, and then last thing I'd look for is how it shifts from park to reverse and park to drive. If it drops hard into gear and then also shifts hard then I'd suspect a trans or diff mount, if it only shifts hard while driving then I'd say the trans needs some attention.

 

 

 

Also sell me your old front fenders! I need them for a widebody kit for my 2nd gen

In regards to the oil on the back of the motor. What exactly does that indicate and I’m guessing I should stay away unless I want to pull the engine and do work to it?

Also, how crazy and feasible is it to pull the 5mt from my 97 and put it in the 99?

Shipping would be expensive from Texas to you I think!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If there is oil residue and just overall grunginess on that back side of the motor it could be something easy like a cam seal but in all of my subaru experience, it's either the oil separator plate or rear main seal, so basically a sure fire sign you'd have to pull the motor if you don't want an engine that leaks oil.

In regards to doing a trans swap, if they're both manual then you'd looking at a weekend job, if you are converting from auto to manual you're looking at much longer, I plan to do that conversion to mine overwinter, so I'm allotting several months to it so that I can take my time and do a thorough job.

As far as the fenders go, I dunno how much that'd cost but it'd be shipping it across country so probably not worthwhile.

Well I went to look at the car today. No residue on the back of the motor and the coolant looked fine although low(fingers crossed). Shifting seemed fine and it drove great. Cruise control worked, foglights work, heated seats may be out but the limited seats I have are just fine.

The first caveat was that it’s a 98 and not 99 as advertised and it has 214k instead of 180k.. oh well. Looked underneath and no rust anywhere! Turns out it’s been in Houston it’s whole life and only had one owner. The father in law haggled for about 20 minutes but could only get him to come down to $1400.

Drive it home about 30 miles and I was nervous the whole time that the timing belt would pop. Going to have to wrap my head around doing that soon.

Thanks for your help Brighton.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I’m currently researching the proper timing belt kit to order or maybe piece it out. I see that aisin has one with all made in Japan parts but it’s like $322..I don’t mind paying that but naturally I would like to get it cheaper.

Next I guess I’ll order a new oem thermostat, change the oil, new air filter, new fuel filter and check the brake pads. Anything else that you recommend me doing Brighton?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't think of anything else that NEEDs to be done aside from the basic tune up stuff. If you are going to go through the effort of a full timing belt and component replacement, I'd also replace the cam and crank seals while you are there. The easiest way I've found to remove those is with a 90 pick or hook style pick, that's how I remove them without risking damaging anything.

Okay I'll do that

A little later I'd check/replace the trans and diff fluids if you don't know they have been done recently.

I'll do that as well.