What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?

I'm liking those panels! Mine are in really rough condition. I need to do something with them.

 

Thanks, upholstery is definetely my weakest point. It's probably my 3rd attempt, mostly using the wrong glue. I found the only glue that works is "3M black super-weatherstrip and gasket adhesive" and both sides with glue have to dry before going together. This is why I tried to rivet as much as possible. I think these door panels originally came out of a lxi but the dealer had them installed in the SS. Mine were so bad initially, the foam on top was deteriorating from the az sun.

Brought my wagon back home on wedneday, had some fun with it tonight, got flexed on by a Honda kid with his b18 swapped hatchback....I had to... and I'm n/a. He was done off the line and to 4th gear. Can't believe the pnp'ed 2.2 heads breathe that good now.

I personally didn't do anything, but some progress is being made on the respray!

 

http://i.imgur.com/RSxamwzh.jpg

Nice! Gonna be fresh. ..im about to log another 1000+mile trip. Headin off to port townsend, washington for west coast subie show

Working on other peoples' cars sucks. Especially with the owner. Just gives the saying "want it done right, you gotta do it yourself" everything he touched cost me hours on redoing it. Simple 01 forester timing belt and i had problems with everything he did.

I did the ej22t swap I am I in a legacy and I see the running good the only thing is with the factory boost controller its only run about 5 to 7 psi is that normal and can I run more? If I can run more what way would you recommend and then how hard is it to get an intercooler in that beast

Factory boost for the 22T is 8.7 psi. You can run up to 11-12 psi using a manual boost controller but anything above that and you will get fuel cut, assuming you are using the stock 22T ecu. You can build a fuel cut defender and that will allow you to run as much boost as you want.

 

Personally I wouldn't run any more than the stock boost levels (8.7 psi) without installing an intercooler. I wouldn't want to run any more than 10-12 psi on the VF11.

 

You will want to source an '06 WRX tmic or a Forester XT tmic for the best fitment. Make sure the BOV mount is at an angle.

 

Here are some great instructions about how to install a tmic: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38598&sid=5e1a6d17fd869ba42e5341a526a93865

I got a new brake pedal pad from ebay and I'm currently working on rebuilding my window lift motors.

I did the ej22t swap I am I in a legacy and I see the running good the only thing is with the factory boost controller its only run about 5 to 7 psi is that normal and can I run more? If I can run more what way would you recommend and then how hard is it to get an intercooler in that beast

 

Tmic is the way to go if your running less than 15psi. I went with a front mount because I have a boost happy ej20g and plan on running 24psi on stock internals with a FP green turbo. You can make it more efficient by insulating the hot side of the turbo, plain old aluminum foil does wonders for underhood temps. I've been having boost leak issues lately, too many couplings in the ebay fmic kit. Built a boost leak tool to find a leak by preasurizing the pipes, but its leaking somewhere else than the fmic piping.

Also, for the first time in 10 years I have been able to connect my laptop to my standalone engine management. Now that I can finally datalog, I can really see where I need to tune. My ribboncable-serial adapter had some bad connections and I had to resolder some of the joints on the circuit board. As soon as I get the boost leak fixed, its gonna be time for some fun.

Been a while. through on a wrx scoop. had a new sti scoop, but it was stupidly too big

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee110/bcmaxx/20140902_074417_zps5bfe7f9a.jpg

 

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee110/bcmaxx/20140902_074412_zpsee7f6d46.jpg

Finally. A project worth mentioning finished. I re-wired my power windows. Ran 10ga to the LR, RR and RF doors and installed 2 relays in each door.

 

I removed the circuit breaker and relay from under the front seat

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0731_zpsd8125ae3.jpg

 

Wired 2 relays in each door

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0735_zps9974af2a.jpg

 

Gave the relays a good power source from a fuse box i have installed in the knee panel area of the dash

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0734_zps34ddac09.jpg

 

I drew a wiring schematic just for giggles.... so this is how the windows are wired... they fly up now!!!

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/wirediagram_zpsfc8bcad8.jpg

 

I dont have many pictures because it took me about 6 hours to do the job, BUT, i took my time AND cleaned the car at the same time while the seats were out. Btw, it does take some supplies to do this, prolly around $50 bucks in relays, wiring, connectors.

 

 

Next project....... TINTING THE WINDOWS!!!!! can't wait!!

Picked up some power folding mirrors! I need to bring them to my painter this weekend

 

http://i.imgur.com/yuPHhrOh.jpg?1

Nice! I could probably use some of that stuff for my build.

Random question but would a uhaul hitch from a 1stgen wagon bolt directly on the back of a first gen sedan as well????

Hey guys!! Just about to pull the trigger on a completely stock unmolested '92 Legacy SS 5MT. It has 160k on the clock, barely a ding, original paint, runs like a champ, everything works and not a spot of rust top, front, under or behind. California car it's entire life. Do you guys think $2600 a reasonable price?

 

Also, what is the easiest way to get rid of those annoying automatic seat belts and replace with some manual units?

That's not a bad deal IMO. I paid about that much for mine with a 4EAT and some minor rust w/160k. Then the HGs blew after 70 miles of driving.

 

But it's running great now and the wife loves it as her DD.

 

The manual seat belts are about as hard to find as unicorns. I'd check the parts shed over on bbslegacycentral. There was someone on this forum that posted a diy using outback seatbelts a while back. Looked like a PITA.

That also sounds like a good deal to me.

 

Got some photos today of my wagon:

 

http://i.imgur.com/uu3wiRz.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/e0icOoq.jpg

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the Canadian models had the manual seatbelts.

Since my tint showed up, had to finally fix the defroster grid lines that weren't working.. 2 pesky lines that didn't work. So this weekend i'll be tinting my windows.

MOAR POWER!!! Great Idea!! I was thinking about addressing this problem, especially since my battery is in the trunk. Lots of voltage drop over long lengths of wire, not to mention the power first goes through the master window switch and then to the rear/passenger doors.

My HKS EVC-2 electronic boost controller has been turning on/off with slight bumps. pulled the circuit board and sure enough the power connections to the board were fractured. Re-soldered and works like new. Just got my exhaust gasket kit in from Grim-speed, great quality. I've been slowly losing boost: first, I swapped to a manual boost controller, then did the FMIC boost leak test and it held 25psi, checked all vacuum lines, pulled the downpipe and the wastegate was fine. I had broke a turbo-DP stud upon removal, so I pulled the turbo had to drill/tap that basterd out. Wrapped the DP with some exhaust wrap and noticed my uppipe gasket was leaking. upon further inspection, I noticed a little black coming out of almost all the pre-turbo gaskets, including on the heads... Launch control probably didn't help after I re-used the original gaskets a few years ago. Funny, Exhaust wasn't especially loud, maybe changed over time and I didn't notice it. Lesson to be learned... ALWAYS install new gaskets, the grimspeed exhaust gaskets were about 3-4 times thicker and layered, where-as my OEM's were smashed into a single layer. I'm hoping this is my problem so I can finally datalog and finally tune.

I am also planning on building a Knock-detector circuit using 7-9 LED's, so the louder the knock the more LED's will light up. It will tie into the factory knock sensor, just need some more time.

Also, on another note... I am going to be picking up a low mileage, JDM 5-speed in CA while I'm visiting, they go for about 800$ shipped on ebay. I plan on walking in with cash in my hand and going through their stock. Sometimes you can find a special one with widened gears or added synchros. I need to replace this doomed USDM WRX gearbox, it shifts great but on/off throttle makes loud clunks sort of like a thrust bearing would and the whiney centerdiff is still noisey after I replaced all 4 bearings on it.

 

Finally. A project worth mentioning finished. I re-wired my power windows. Ran 10ga to the LR, RR and RF doors and installed 2 relays in each door.

 

I removed the circuit breaker and relay from under the front seat

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0731_zpsd8125ae3.jpg

 

Wired 2 relays in each door

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0735_zps9974af2a.jpg

 

Gave the relays a good power source from a fuse box i have installed in the knee panel area of the dash

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0734_zps34ddac09.jpg

 

I drew a wiring schematic just for giggles.... so this is how the windows are wired... they fly up now!!!

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/wirediagram_zpsfc8bcad8.jpg

 

I dont have many pictures because it took me about 6 hours to do the job, BUT, i took my time AND cleaned the car at the same time while the seats were out. Btw, it does take some supplies to do this, prolly around $50 bucks in relays, wiring, connectors.

 

 

Next project....... TINTING THE WINDOWS!!!!! can't wait!!

Tint is in.... and on.... mostly....

I picked up some..... I believe half way decent tint from ebay... Black Box UltimaCool DUO tint.....

Got the back doors and rear sides done for now.. back doors back is 35%

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0796_zps7d6dc275.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0798_zpse4523ba4.jpg

 

Still have rear hatch and front doors to do. Front doors will be 50%.

Screw having it done at a shop... its easy to do... yet this is my FIRST tint job.. ever... thats one reason i chose the tint i did... that and its already a 21 year old car.....ceramic tint would be pretty expensive for a car this old...... but i may do my fiance's 2010 in it.....

 

 

 

Also got the Hella FF75 driving lights i been wanting.......

 

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0799_zps62a1e7ea.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/0913141814_zpsc22df929.jpg

I had some cheap Autozone lights that these Hella's replaced... now time to wait till it gets dark to align them.

Edited September 13, 2014 by mnstrmech

Finished the front doors....

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/IMG_0802_zps09685416.jpg

 

 

Window tinting is flippin' easy.......

Edited September 15, 2014 by mnstrmech

I was installing new exhaust gaskets and got slighty carried away. Ended up porting the exhaust ports to match the gasket and the rest of my exhaust. I ended up with some slightly noticable gains in all the powerband. The problem of my boost leak still exist, only able to run 10-13psi. >=-\ while I had the header off, i did notice the uppipe was quite loose, even though it was still attached to the turbo from above. So I can only predict its a broken uppipe, locally i can only find a jdm catted uppipe, so ill be hogging it out before installing. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/CAM00186_zpssdb7ggxu.jpg

Here's a quick Turbo comparison, I couldn't find much when searching for info on my ej20g turbo so here's what I found when I had them sidebyside, should have taken pics of the cold side but was anxious to get it re-installed. '03 wrx TD05 vs '89 RS Liberty turbo RHB52

Heres the TD05L alledgedly off a 02 wrx http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/CAM00153_zpsai1ba7fw.jpg

'89 Liberty RS RHB52 that came off my closed deck ej20g http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/CAM00155_zpsgv4yijpr.jpg

The rhb52 has a larger exhaust turbine/less fins so it builds more more boost/ little slower. The wrx turbo spools quicker/smoother delivery, but not as much top end.

Edited September 15, 2014 by USLiberty

Scored on a grimspeed uppipe and crossover pipe, got both for 240$, hoping this finally fixes my boost issues. I believe my attempt at porting the stock ones weakened them. The rs liberty club forums seem to have the same broken uppipe issues and thats not a part to skimp on ebay. Grimspeed makes some great parts, always impressed on their quality.