2010 GT revs like the clutch is still in past 1/4 throttle

Hello,

I am currently experiencing an issue where my car is reving like I still have the clutch in or it is in neutral when I am in gear and trying to accelerate. It will go up then drop the revs back down after a moment but it will go from 3000 rpm to 6000 at half throttle in a near instant and it won't accelerate at all until it drops back to a normal rpm

This sounds like a classic case of worn out clutch that is slipping. The clutch will need to be replaced which involves removing the motor.

Yup. Mine does the same at WOT in higher gears. Will need to replace the clutch soon. Still less than 50k miles on a 2010. Thicker FSB going in at that point as well.

+1 time for a new clutch. Be careful driving too far from home and get an appointment to get it replaced.

While you're in there, replace the clutch fork and pivot bearing with something like the forged one made by Verus

This sounds like a classic case of worn out clutch that is slipping. The clutch will need to be replaced which involves removing the motor.

 

does the motor actually need to be removed in the GT? i've done clutches on older 2.5s and you can just drop the tranny. I ask this since i've started getting some nasty chatter out of my clutch and am planning on replacing eventually

does the motor actually need to be removed in the GT? i've done clutches on older 2.5s and you can just drop the tranny. I ask this since i've started getting some nasty chatter out of my clutch and am planning on replacing eventually

 

The place that did my clutch fork (and new clutch) said that you can do it either way. However, keep in mind that the engine has no rear mounts, it's supported by the tranny, so you'd have to support the engine while you drop the tranny. For that reason, they just pulled the engine on mine.

does the motor actually need to be removed in the GT? i've done clutches on older 2.5s and you can just drop the tranny. I ask this since i've started getting some nasty chatter out of my clutch and am planning on replacing eventually

 

When mine was done, the mechanic said it'd be much easier to just pull the engine vs dropping the trans

I drop the trans, it takes all of 6 hours start to finish on a lift by yourself, less if you have a friend. I just decided I'd rather drain gear oil than coolant. Also a bit easier to get things lined back up, to me.

 

If I was doing it on the ground, I'd probably pull the motor.

Edited November 4, 2020 by awfulwaffle

I'm a glutton for punishment. Would it be a possible one man job, on the ground, engine supported with spanning support bar, and using a trans jack to lift/lower the trans?

 

My clutch was supposedly done before I bought the car in April. No seller proof, but AC was empty like the engine had been pulled, and both ground straps were broken like someone was in a hurry. It really doesn't feel right though. It grabs and holds fine, but engagement is wonky and pedal travel has a crunchy spot. I also had an incident in May that left me stuck in 6th gear so I had to start from a stop in 6th more than a few times to get home. I'm sure that left some heat spots.

 

I have zero trust for shops doing anything correctly these days, so I'd like to just replace everything myself and also put a snout sleeve on.

Edited November 4, 2020 by Plastixx

You're gonna have a hell of a time getting the trans to spline back in by yourself, but it's doable.

You're gonna have a hell of a time getting the trans to spline back in by yourself, but it's doable.

 

A trans jack should make it easier though? It has adjustments to pitch the trans different angles. Couldn't be any worse than me getting the trans back on my Tiburon by myself by dangling it with a ratchet strap from the engine support bar. I really should have recorded that mess for others amusement.

eh, took my an hour of fiddling doing it on the ground on 2.5is to get everything lined up, with getting on the dowels and getting the angle and height right, but it was doable. sounds like except for the enging mounting situation shouldn't be too much different to do it on the GT. i'd personally rather dick around with the trans than pulling the engine since i'm working on the side of a city street, but that's good to know about the engine mounts...will have to figure some support beam out.

When I did mine, I opted to pull the engine so I could do timing belt and other things at the same time. Started early Saturday morning and had it back in by Sunday afternoon, basically by myself. The hardest part by far was getting the engine and trans separated - took almost 3 hours of hammering and going to get various tools to get them apart because of the corrosion. The whole reassembly process took 5 hours max.

I drop the trans, it takes all of 6 hours start to finish on a lift by yourself, less if you have a friend. I just decided I'd rather drain gear oil than coolant. Also a bit easier to get things lined back up, to me.

 

If I was doing it on the ground, I'd probably pull the motor.

 

The 5th Gen GT would need to make up a system (or buy the factory tool to support the motor) to reliablity support the motor. I personally wouldn't just use an engine lift to hold the motor. I think it would take about the same time pulling the motor vs pulling the transmission and with the motor out you may be do some additional maintenance while you're in there. Timing belt and in particular the water pump would be a good idea.

 

Definitely replace the clutch fork. If you have the factory clutch you can use the factory fork. I think the OEM ones are only $25.

I'm a glutton for punishment. Would it be a possible one man job, on the ground, engine supported with spanning support bar, and using a trans jack to lift/lower the trans?

 

My clutch was supposedly done before I bought the car in April. No seller proof, but AC was empty like the engine had been pulled, and both ground straps were broken like someone was in a hurry. It really doesn't feel right though. It grabs and holds fine, but engagement is wonky and pedal travel has a crunchy spot. I also had an incident in May that left me stuck in 6th gear so I had to start from a stop in 6th more than a few times to get home. I'm sure that left some heat spots.

 

I have zero trust for shops doing anything correctly these days, so I'd like to just replace everything myself and also put a snout sleeve on.

 

I'd replace the grounds if you haven't already. Missing broken/grounds can cause some funky issue down the road. On my truck, it melts the shifter cable.

eh, took my an hour of fiddling doing it on the ground on 2.5is to get everything lined up, with getting on the dowels and getting the angle and height right, but it was doable. sounds like except for the enging mounting situation shouldn't be too much different to do it on the GT. i'd personally rather dick around with the trans than pulling the engine since i'm working on the side of a city street, but that's good to know about the engine mounts...will have to figure some support beam out.

 

Subaru makes a tool that is mentioned in the service manual to support it. I have an engine leveler which helps on the engine side, a transmission jack helps if pulling the transmission.

ha, that subaru tool is $3k, so that's a big old bag of nope. have a transmission jack, and can rig something up to hold the engine, i know they make engine supports so wouldn't be too bad.

ha, that subaru tool is $3k, so that's a big old bag of nope. have a transmission jack, and can rig something up to hold the engine, i know they make engine supports so wouldn't be too bad.

 

I think I paid less than $100 for my 1100lb support bar.

yeah, there's a harbor freight one for like $80, and others online for around that

I see you can get them for as low as $63 shipped on eBay now.

ha, that subaru tool is $3k, so that's a big old bag of nope. have a transmission jack, and can rig something up to hold the engine, i know they make engine supports so wouldn't be too bad.

 

I am all for buying tools to make my job easier, but that is just way too much. I saw it in the service manual but never looked up the price. Sorry to mislead anyone.

don't think you misled anyone, and i think a shop that was doing this day in and day out would actually get the use out of a $3k tool, i was just shocked at the price and definitely noted that is not a homegamer's specialty tool, unlike a lot of the tools that are actually reasonably priced

Im going to be honest here. If the OP didnt know this was a classic sign of clutch slip they probably arnt going to be replacing the clutch themselves.

eh, just because you don't know a diagnosis doesn't mean you're incompetent mechanically. also doesn't mean other people can't have a discussion...