Ej255 Manual Vs Auto

Hi all,

Some know my engine is knocking and I need to get it replaced..so here it goes:

This may be a stupid question, forgive me, but I found a guy selling a rebuilt ej255 with 10k miles on the engine and a bunch of goodies. The only thing is it is paired with a manual transmission. I will be replacing the ENTIRE engine-- long block, short block, head, turbo, manifolds, etc.

I just wanted to know would the motor also work with the 5EAT or would I have swap things out to make is compatible?

Thank you.

The motor will work with s 5EAT. You just need to swap the flax plate from your engine to the new one.

Awesome!! Thanks for the response. I wanted to also ask he says it’s making roughly 330whp/330wtq.. and my 5eat has about 190k miles on it. Not sure if it will hold up okay with that much torque?

Thanks again.

Awesome!! Thanks for the response. I wanted to also ask he says it’s making roughly 330whp/330wtq.. and my 5eat has about 190k miles on it. Not sure if it will hold up okay with that much torque?

 

Thanks again.

Depends on your driving style.

Depends on your driving style.

Thanks for the comment. I don’t drive very hard, occasionally I like to drive it like it I stole it. But since it’s my daily I don’t beat on it very much. I want more reliability than speed. I was thinking though since it’s tuned (because of vf52) via cobb I could buy the motor and accessport but get another tune for it that isn’t as powerful. Thoughts on that?

You would need a tune regardless. You can have it tunned down.

Any mods to the VB?

You would need a tune regardless. You can have it tunned down.

 

 

Any mods to the VB?

Alright thanks. I’ll buy the COBB from him too since he’s selling it cheaper than a new one and get a tune for it.

VB? Valve body? Mine is stock. Not sure about his.

His VB is non-existent if he's running manual transmission.

Engine itself has no tune, so unless you are buying his turbo and supporting uppipe/downpipe the power it makes on his car is irrelevant.

His VB is non-existent if he's running manual transmission.

 

 

Engine itself has no tune, so unless you are buying his turbo and supporting uppipe/downpipe the power it makes on his car is irrelevant.

Thanks for the response. He is selling me everything with the engine--turbo, upipe, intake, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, etc (minus catless downpipe since I have automatic) the full nine yards to make it a straight drop-in with no extra work necessary, besides the flex plate.

the 330whp will not translate to your car if you are keeping stock downpipe. As people here already said you will need the tune regardless but please do ask questions to get picture of what transferring all of that hardware from donor car to yours entails.

One thing that is not clear from your post is whether you are just looking to replace your stock 190K motor with newer/rebuilt motor, or if you are looking to get some power gains too. Depending on your answer the course of action will be different for you.

You are still going to need a tune. A MT tune will not work in your 5EAT's ECM.

Thanks for the response; Yes I will be getting a tune no matter what since my ECM is different.

the 330whp will not translate to your car if you are keeping stock downpipe. As people here already said you will need the tune regardless but please do ask questions to get picture of what transferring all of that hardware from donor car to yours entails.

 

 

 

One thing that is not clear from your post is whether you are just looking to replace your stock 190K motor with newer/rebuilt motor, or if you are looking to get some power gains too. Depending on your answer the course of action will be different for you.

Yes I know I will not have the same exact numbers. I also agree I would need a tune. Not asking what hardware should and should not be transferred, just asking what do I need to do to get it working on an auto transmission which I got my answer. The rest the shop will take care of, I will not be doing the swap myself.

I will be replacing the entire motor--heads, blocks, intake manifold, etc with that newer rebuilt motor. It will be a straight drop-in minus changing out the flex plate (according to the shop and rhino6303).

His VB is non-existent if he's running manual transmission.

 

 

Engine itself has no tune, so unless you are buying his turbo and supporting uppipe/downpipe the power it makes on his car is irrelevant.

OP has an AT

Package he is asking about is an MT.

You are still going to need a tune. A MT tune will not work in your 5EAT's ECM.

Correct but pending what verstion the Cobb AP is it can support both.

the 330whp will not translate to your car if you are keeping stock downpipe. .

Also correct.

OP - You need a tune; to get the most out of the purchase you also need a DP. But the Longblock (shortblock, heads, manifolds/header, Uppipe, turbo will all transfer over.

OP has an AT

Package he is asking about is an MT.

 

 

 

Correct but pending what verstion the Cobb AP is it can support both.

 

 

Also correct.

 

OP - You need a tune; to get the most out of the purchase you also need a DP. But the Longblock (shortblock, heads, manifolds/header, Uppipe, turbo will all transfer over.

Thanks for the responses! I think the AP the seller has is V3 but I asked him to confirm. Either way I plan on getting another tune just so I don't burst my transmission. Will find out what a safe PSI is that would be best for daily driving.

Alright I will look into downpipes too. Yes, long block, short block, heads, manifolds/headers, up-pipe, etc will all transfer over from sellers car to my car.

Sellers car is MT mine is AT.

Thanks for the responses! I think the AP the seller has is V3 but I asked him to confirm. Either way I plan on getting another tune just so I don't burst my transmission. Will find out what a safe PSI is that would be best for daily driving.

 

Alright I will look into downpipes too. Yes, long block, short block, heads, manifolds/headers, up-pipe, etc will all transfer over from sellers car to my car.

 

Sellers car is MT mine is AT.

Yeap, just remember to make a decision on DP first, tune will be done on specific DP. If DP changes midway then tune will need to be redone.

Yeap, just remember to make a decision on DP first, tune will be done on specific DP. If DP changes midway then tune will need to be redone.

Will do! Thanks.

Catless downpipe from 1320 on eBay is about $200 shipped.

Will do! Thanks.

 

Catless downpipe from 1320 on eBay is about $200 shipped.

Catless DP will stink to high heavens.

Catless DP will stink to high heavens.

Lol catted downpipe it is then! But I believe my downpipe is fine so if I can save money on that I’ll end up sticking with what I have.

I feel that we are going in circles. It's great that your DP is fine but if it is stock OEM DP it will prevent any real power gains from the setup that is capable of producing 330WHP. Stock DP, manual or auto are limiting any upgrade to what is (informally) known as Stage 1, that's where Cobb AP is great. It's just a tune on stock h/w.

Aftermarket DPs allow for a much better flow thus allowing engine to breath more easily and thus take advantage of engine and capabilities, even with stock turbo (btw what turbo are we talking about here). Because of better flow provided aftermarket DPs allow car to be taken to Stage 2 and Stage 3 levels of power - that's where 330WHP is.

There is no point buying anything beyond long block from 330WHP setup if you are keeping stock DP. It will be restricted to Stage 1 power by tune to keep the car running. Stock intake is fine until you are way up there in power (I run stock intake on Stage 2 without any problems).

I may be parroting all the things that you already know, but I can't help the feeling that you are making a decision too quick to just buy parts from the other car. I recall myself being confused with all the terms and idioms people were sharing with me here when I started the quest to Stage 2; simply trying to pass the knowledge.

Good luck.

I feel that we are going in circles. It's great that your DP is fine but if it is stock OEM DP it will prevent any real power gains from the setup that is capable of producing 330WHP. Stock DP, manual or auto are limiting any upgrade to what is (informally) known as Stage 1, that's where Cobb AP is great. It's just a tune on stock h/w.

 

 

 

Aftermarket DPs allow for a much better flow thus allowing engine to breath more easily and thus take advantage of engine and capabilities, even with stock turbo (btw what turbo are we talking about here). Because of better flow provided aftermarket DPs allow car to be taken to Stage 2 and Stage 3 levels of power - that's where 330WHP is.

 

 

There is no point buying anything beyond long block from 330WHP setup if you are keeping stock DP. It will be restricted to Stage 1 power by tune to keep the car running. Stock intake is fine until you are way up there in power (I run stock intake on Stage 2 without any problems).

 

 

 

I may be parroting all the things that you already know, but I can't help the feeling that you are making a decision too quick to just buy parts from the other car. I recall myself being confused with all the terms and idioms people were sharing with me here when I started the quest to Stage 2; simply trying to pass the knowledge.

 

 

Good luck.

Thanks for the info! I still have plenty of time before deciding what route to go with. I do not mind using stock downpipe and losing some power. I currently have an SPT intake and the ej255 engine I am looking at also has an aftermarket intake.

All other motors I am looking at are stock/have not been rebuilt and are asking $2500 with 80k+ miles which is ridiculous imo. It's why I kind of have my mind set on the already rebuilt motor. But I do see your point, I don't want to jump the gun and end up with another headache.

I can always upgrade the downpipe to another catted one too at a later time should I choose that route, not a very hard job to do and I will get a tune for it same day.

I truly appreciate you taking the time to give some guidance. I will keep this thread updated with whatever I choose to do.

Is the new motor from an 05/06 Legacy GT or OBXT?

It is from a Legacy GT

It is from a Legacy GT

Year will matter

year will matter

2005..did not know there was 2 versions of the EJ255...but the engine I am looking at is from a 2005, same year as me.