What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Dropped the subframe and drained the gas in preparation to replace the fuel tank.

Nice work!

I should probably just do the same thing with my wagon when I go to replace the ancient rear control arms. I know my CVs and all the bushings are original in the rear, and the wheel bearings now have 50k miles. Not too difficult?

Dropped the subframe and drained the gas in preparation to replace the fuel tank.

 

 

 

Did the subframe come off easy? I am thinking about the same job but have heard couple of times here that bolts break off those welded nuts in the body and it becomes a major PITA at that point.

Not too difficult?

I would say this isn't a very difficult job, but it's a time consuming job. In the wagon you also have to take apart the interior rear-quarter trim to get at the evap hose. One of the quick-disconnects did not cooperate so I'm probably replacing an evap line. It's a good idea to run your fuel down before you do this. I had to shuttle two cans of gas to another car to empty half a tank.

Did the subframe come off easy? I am thinking about the same job but have heard couple of times here that bolts break off those welded nuts in the body and it becomes a major PITA at that point.

It really comes down to how rusty your car is. I got lucky and none of my bolts broke. I have a whole rust-prevention strategy. The rusty bolts on some of the brake hose brackets came close to breaking. It's counterintuitive but impact guns/wrenches help a lot. The constant slow build of torque on hand tools makes bolts more likely to shear than the percussive hammer of impacts. I really like my Makita's... today was my first day with their ratchet.

It is very nice the whole rear subframe can be removed with the adjustable components of the suspension - I may not even need an alignment after this.

I had no issue pulling my subframe as well. There was one frame bolt that was too much for my impact, so a friend to hold the breaker bar in place, and a 6 foot cheater bar made quick work of it.

If your subframe bushings aren't rusted into the frame like mine were, and your interested in all bushings, powerflex PFR69-417 fit our subrames. No difference in NVH (with OE bushings everywhere else in the suspension)

I'm jealous of all of you and and your running wagons. Seeing it nice and sunny/warm today and not being able to drive mine made me rather sad...

Got a call from the machine shop - block should be ready for pickup tomorrow. Accumulated a few bits in the meantime. Going back together with Manley H-beam rods to match the pistons, thicker wrist pins, new set of Total Seal rings, and an AOS for the anticipated blow-by with the PTW clearances I asked for.

and an AOS for the anticipated blow-by with the PTW clearances I asked for.

I wonder if you'll have the diesel clack that my old 07 engine has... Man I can't wait for a quiet short block again.

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I wonder if you'll have the diesel clack that my old 07 engine has... Man I can't wait for a quiet short block again.

 

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Well, gotta do something, though these weren't all that loud except on startup before. The Manley 2618 drop-ins I used after losing a ringland a little while ago were meant to hit .0023/.0031 in the standard B bores. Measured at .0029 average. Referencing Manley's rule of thumb guidelines, this lines up with their 'mild boost' suggested clearance. I saw notable scuffing on the skirts and walls after only 5k, so it seems to me that I may no longer fall under this category. Clearanced to .0035 now, so we'll see how it sounds. In any case, I'll take a slightly noisier motor and a bit more blowby in exchange for not scuffing walls and the motor turning into an oil sucker early on.

The thought to go with 4032 pistons occurred to me to quiet things down - had an oversized set on hand that have since been returned, because the machine shop managed to completely clean up the cylinder walls and hit .0035 with my existing pistons. What a pricey science project...

I would say this isn't a very difficult job, but it's a time consuming job. In the wagon you also have to take apart the interior rear-quarter trim to get at the evap hose. One of the quick-disconnects did not cooperate so I'm probably replacing an evap line. It's a good idea to run your fuel down before you do this. I had to shuttle two cans of gas to another car to empty half a tank.

 

 

 

It really comes down to how rusty your car is. I got lucky and none of my bolts broke. I have a whole rust-prevention strategy. The rusty bolts on some of the brake hose brackets came close to breaking. It's counterintuitive but impact guns/wrenches help a lot. The constant slow build of torque on hand tools makes bolts more likely to shear than the percussive hammer of impacts. I really like my Makita's... today was my first day with their ratchet.

 

It is very nice the whole rear subframe can be removed with the adjustable components of the suspension - I may not even need an alignment after this.

Thanks, all good info. I have a full set of aluminum control arms, front and rear, set of SS brake lines and right-side plate for parking brake to replace. Rear diff bushings are still original too, didn't swap them out when I did the 6MT swap.

Might just get new rear subframe with all the bushings installed on it already. Part # was posted here recently. Have everything installed on it on the ground and then just bolt it up! Still have the tranny jack from the go'old days

Well, gotta do something, though these weren't all that loud except on startup before. The Manley 2618 drop-ins I used after losing a ringland a little while ago were meant to hit .0023/.0031 in the standard B bores. Measured at .0029 average. Referencing Manley's rule of thumb guidelines, this lines up with their 'mild boost' suggested clearance. I saw notable scuffing on the skirts and walls after only 5k, so it seems to me that I may no longer fall under this category. Clearanced to .0035 now, so we'll see how it sounds. In any case, I'll take a slightly noisier motor and a bit more blowby in exchange for not scuffing walls and the motor turning into an oil sucker early on.

 

The thought to go with 4032 pistons occurred to me to quiet things down - had an oversized set on hand that have since been returned, because the machine shop managed to completely clean up the cylinder walls and hit .0035 with my existing pistons. What a pricey science project...

I used .0035. Start up is noisy affair. Is better when using oem oil specs instead of 15/40 I used to run. It only consumed oil on track, which was unexpected.

Well, gotta do something, though these weren't all that loud except on startup before. The Manley 2618 drop-ins I used after losing a ringland a little while ago were meant to hit .0023/.0031 in the standard B bores. Measured at .0029 average. Referencing Manley's rule of thumb guidelines, this lines up with their 'mild boost' suggested clearance. I saw notable scuffing on the skirts and walls after only 5k, so it seems to me that I may no longer fall under this category. Clearanced to .0035 now, so we'll see how it sounds. In any case, I'll take a slightly noisier motor and a bit more blowby in exchange for not scuffing walls and the motor turning into an oil sucker early on.

 

 

 

The thought to go with 4032 pistons occurred to me to quiet things down - had an oversized set on hand that have since been returned, because the machine shop managed to completely clean up the cylinder walls and hit .0035 with my existing pistons. What a pricey science project...

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My initial rear Brembo caliper install didn't go so great apparently. Was hearing some noises that weren't normal, so I took my rear brakes apart today and started over.

Found ebrake rebuild kits on rockauto and some of my old hardware looked haggard, so got that cleaned up. Discovered the Brembo adapter hardware was too long and contacting the inside of the rotor, added a washer and got that clear. Lastly had to dremel out some more room for the top bolts to get them to seat cleanly. Sooo much better after a test drive.

And finished my center console refresh today. Just need to reinstall everything tomorrow. I did an ok job, it definitely looks a ton better.

Tried to take a bigger pic, but stupid site upload sizing..

Here's the refreshed console. There are two sags in the paint and some scratches I didn't sand out enough, but looks waaay better to me. Rustoleum's version of plastidip found at autozone, it's uncanny how closely it matches the heated seat bezel.

Lots of sanding, good scrubbing, some more sanding and scrubbing, and also heated up the paint in hot water for 30 minutes prior to application. We'll see how well it lasts and how durable it is.

I still need an ebrake boot retainer clip if anyone has one laying around!

I just took mine for a quick spin. The first time it’s been out of the garage since early January. I was disappointed to find how far the Sticky Dash has progressed over the past few months. It will need to be replaced sooner than later.

I wonder if madrig can make a kevlar replica. it's not as soft but it returns to shape after a hit.

My dash is fine, is this a siting in the sun/heat issue? Hope I don't jinx my dash by asking.

19 pages is too long someone please enlighten me, thx!

Mine has always been garaged, 139k original owner.

Did some car cleaning yesterday. Basic stuff. Vacuuming, wiping dash, doors, console. Came out today and car was dead. Too dead for my emergency jump pack. Figure battery was nearly three years so go grab a new one, when I go to turn it on see the little parking light switch is flipped on... well that's annoying.

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I had to replace my optima red top last year. The old one had a sticker on it from 06. I'm assuming that means it was 14 years old? But that can't be right can it? The new one also has a sticker that says 20. Do batteries last that long?

Lol not usually. Cheap ones seem to be about 3 in my experience. Good ones it seems 7+ isn't uncommon. I got a duralast agm. Wasn't too expensive and if you remember the warranty you get a new one free every 3 years.

Also yes that's what the stickers mean.

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Passed the quarter million mile mark on the way into work this morning.