Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

The tale of two OBP OBXTs | low vs lifted


KevinEdgar

Recommended Posts

Drove the lifted wagon to get groceries just to make sure it still works lol, taking it snowboarding next weekend.

 

Base map will be sent to me wednesday and i'm going to do an oil change so the car can have fresh oil for the tune on friday. Nervous and excited, never had a car dyno tuned before. A lot of first times with this car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see. So you got 800cc injectors then. I think I am going to do this as well as adding a GS intercooler and also install that AEM fuel pump I got a while ago. I need moar boost :spin:

 

They're 850s but yeah I do see the max on that card says 810, although I have no idea what the hell all that info means lol.

 

Do itttt, but man, installing that fuel pump is not fun! I hope you are able to score that new GS TMIC on the FS threads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've read on here that, like the UP cat, the UP EGT sensor also has the potential to break up and ruin your turbo. I removed mine for that reason and did the resistor mod to get rid of CELs.

 

Interesting, I'll bring my EGT plug with me tomorrow and ask my tuner about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

She survived! 354HP/349TQ @19-21psi on 91 pump, my goal was 350HP so I am happy! This thing riiiipssss, I've never had a car this quick.

 

Before I got into the dyno room I heard the car from outside and the dyno room door was closed. Thing was absolutely singing!!

 

dyno video:

 

50984344592_06340d9d5f_h.jpg

Edited by KevinEdgar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

In preparation for the trackday on April 18, I'm going to order whiteline swaybar kit, whiteline rear diff front/rear bushings, aluminum front LCAs and hawk HPS pads F/R.

 

Also, in the future I plan on selling my Endless Zeal coilovers to get some Fortune Auto 500s.

Edited by KevinEdgar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In preparation for the trackday on April 18, I'm going to order whiteline swaybar kit, whiteline rear diff front/rear bushings, aluminum front LCAs and hawk HPS pads F/R.

 

Also, in the future I plan on selling my Endless Zeal coilovers to get some Fortune Auto 500s.

 

Please report your initial thoughts on the Fortune 500's and continue to update us.

 

Secondly, I will probably be driving to Orange Country in late June, early July. If you're not busy, we should def grab lunch or something as I'm passing through for I'd love to see this thing in person and meet it's owner.

 

We can discuss it more as the dates get closer.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please report your initial thoughts on the Fortune 500's and continue to update us.

 

Secondly, I will probably be driving to Orange Country in late June, early July. If you're not busy, we should def grab lunch or something as I'm passing through for I'd love to see this thing in person and meet it's owner.

 

We can discuss it more as the dates get closer.

 

Will definitely provide feedback whenever I get the FAs.

 

Hey I'm super down for that, I'm located in Yuba City which isn't too far from I-5. I also have a nicely setup spare bedroom if you wanted to crash for the night.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will definitely provide feedback whenever I get the FAs.

 

Hey I'm super down for that, I'm located in Yuba City which isn't too far from I-5. I also have a nicely setup spare bedroom if you wanted to crash for the night.

 

Sweet!

 

Great! We'll make it happen! I will be coming down with a buddy, so I do not want to impose on you and the fam whatsoever.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

To prep for tomorrows trackday I installed new front lower control arms, got it aligned, got new F/R whiteline swaybars + endlinks, and F/R hawk HPS pads. I also got whiteline diff bushing but I'm gonna do those late since it involves pulling the subframe.

 

The new brake pads feels INSANE, has me lifting out of my seat about to bite the steering wheel. The screeching isn't too bad for now.

 

51121876193_7e67403b59_h.jpg

51121401422_aa4e76c2e4_h.jpg

51121971266_6ceb63d519_h.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I see all these people swapping out their front LCA's.. as a noob tackling this, what's my success rate to get it done over a weekend? I don't have a second vehicle (sold my S2000) anymore. It's something I need to get done, along with my front passenger axle and we're all "isolating" up here..
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see all these people swapping out their front LCA's.. as a noob tackling this, what's my success rate to get it done over a weekend? I don't have a second vehicle (sold my S2000) anymore. It's something I need to get done, along with my front passenger axle and we're all "isolating" up here..

 

It’s super easy actually. Took me about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace.

 

- with wheel removed, disconnect sway bar end links

- remove aft hardware consisting of 3 19mm bolts if I remember correctly

- remove forward hardware consisting of 17mm bolt and 17mm nut

- remove pinch bolt at lower ball joint, I believe is 14mm

- take a chisel and hammer it between the split area that gets sandwiched by the pinch bolt, this will open the open and the arm should simply fall out, for a rust free California car it did. Don’t let it drop on yourself.

- when fitting ball joint back into its home you will need to use a rubber mallet to make sure it’s fully seated

- install is reversed steps except when you connect your sway bar link, don’t tighten until the car is under its own weight.

- get it aligned asap

 

You only need basic hand tools. I used my impact on the aft bolts but not 100% necessary. Let me know if you have questions!

 

 

For the axle, just as easy.

- with wheel removed disconnect sway bar end link

- disconnect outer tie rod by removing cotter key, pop the tie rod out by backing up the nut until it’s flush with the threads then use a small sledgehammer to pop the tie rod out.

- remove axle nut, 32mm I think(which is difficult to get off sometimes)

- remove hardware from lower strut mount, make sure to note position of upper bolt head side since that dictates camber (I use a paint pen to make two lines)

- with knuckle dangling you can go to the mating point of the axle and take a medium size pry bar to pop the axle out

- installation is reverse just be careful to not damage the seals of the trans housing.

 

I would do these jobs at the same time just in case the alignment gets jacked up from messing with the strut hardware.

 

I’m writing this message while away from my car but I don’t think I missed anything huge

Edited by KevinEdgar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome, thanks for the writeup! When some friends and I did the clutch we had to yank out the transmission side of the axle and something was damaged so it was leaking fluid (I don't recall the exact part number) but I had to order another from the dealership Subaru. Is that the trans housing seals you're referring to?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use